菜品典故
據《如夢錄》載:明代開(kai)(kai)封(feng)(feng)每(mei)逢 農歷二(er)月初二(er),所謂(wei)“龍抬頭”之(zhi)日,為(wei)呈吉祥(xiang),官府、民(min)間都(dou)以細面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)相(xiang)贈(zeng),稱(cheng)之(zhi)為(wei)“龍須面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”。起(qi)初面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)用(yong)水煮食(shi)(shi),后(hou)(hou)來,不斷改進,過油(you)炸(zha)焦,使其蓬松(song)酥脆,吸汁(zhi)后(hou)(hou),配菜(cai)肴同食(shi)(shi),故稱(cheng)“焙(bei)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”。 1930年前后(hou)(hou),開(kai)(kai)封(feng)(feng)名(ming)師最早將用(yong)油(you)炸(zha)過的“龍須面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”,蓋在(zai)做(zuo)好的“糖醋(cu)熘魚(yu)”上(shang)(shang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),創作了“糖醋(cu)熘魚(yu)帶(dai)焙(bei)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”名(ming)菜(cai),深(shen)為(wei)顧(gu)客歡迎(ying)。將二(er)者合面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)為(wei)一(yi),即可(ke)食(shi)(shi)魚(yu),又可(ke)以面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)蘸汁(zhi),故別有(you)風味。后(hou)(hou)來,拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)傳入開(kai)(kai)封(feng)(feng),人們用(yong)拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)油(you)炸(zha)后(hou)(hou)和熘魚(yu)搭配起(qi)來,使其更為(wei)錦(jin)上(shang)(shang)添花。“糖醋(cu)熘魚(yu)”味道之(zhi)鮮(xian)美(mei),妙在(zai)一(yi)道菜(cai)肴,兩(liang)種食(shi)(shi)趣。有(you)“先(xian)食(shi)(shi)龍肉,后(hou)(hou)食(shi)(shi)龍須”之(zhi)美(mei)譽,成(cheng)為(wei)宴席(xi)上(shang)(shang)必不可(ke)少的一(yi)道美(mei)味佳肴。
傳統佳肴
"開封溜魚焙面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)"是開封的傳統依然隹肴之(zhi)一,久(jiu)負盛名(ming)。焙面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)也稱(cheng)龍須面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。據《如夢錄》記載:明清(qing)時,開封每年農歷二月(yue)初(chu)二,稱(cheng)為(wei)"龍抬頭","筵客吃龍須面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),節禮送面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)"。當時制(zhi)作"龍須面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)"。只是用水煮熟,后改(gai)炎焙制(zhi)的方法。故(gu)稱(cheng)為(wei)"焙面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)"。
鯉(li)魚焙(bei)面(mian)是(shi)開(kai)封傳(chuan)統-名菜,由"糖醋熘(liu)魚"和"焙(bei)龍(long)須面(mian)"兩(liang)道名菜配制而成(cheng)。傳(chuan)說,清代慈禧太(tai)后(hou)逃難(nan)時停留在開(kai)封,開(kai)封府名廚貢奉"糖醋熘(liu)魚"和"焙(bei)面(mian)"。慈禧見(jian)狀后(hou),心(xin)血來(lai)潮說道,鯉(li)魚靜躺盤中,大(da)概是(shi)睡著(zhu)了,應(ying)該給它(ta)蓋上被(bei)子,免得受涼。隨(sui)之起筷將(jiang)"焙(bei)面(mian)"覆蓋魚身,"鯉(li)魚焙(bei)面(mian)"從(cong)此傳(chuan)為佳肴了。其特點(dian)是(shi)色澤棗紅,軟嫩(nen)鮮(xian)香;焙(bei)面(mian)細如發絲,蓬松酥(su)脆。
制作方法
一、魚(yu)去(qu)鱗、挖(wa)鰓、去(qu)內臟(zang)、洗(xi)凈,兩面解成月牙(ya)形(xing)備用(一邊7~8刀)。炒鍋置中火(huo)上,加入花生油(1500克),六(liu)成熱時將魚(yu)下(xia)鍋炸(zha)制,連續(xu)頓火(huo)(把鍋從(cong)火(huo)上拉過(guo)來)幾次,待魚(yu)炸(zha)透后(hou)再上火(huo),油溫(wen)升高后(hou)撈出(chu)控油;
二、凈鍋置旺(wang)火上,加入(ru)清(qing)水,放(fang)入(ru)白糖、醋(cu)、料酒、精鹽(5克)、姜汁(zhi)(zhi)、蔥花,勾(gou)入(ru)濕淀粉,用勺不斷攪動,汁(zhi)(zhi)沸后,下50克熱(re)油,然后將汁(zhi)(zhi)澆到(dao)魚身上;
三、白面(mian)粉(fen)兌入(ru)精(jing)鹽(yan)(3克)、堿(jian),和成面(mian)團,蘸水在(zai)案板(ban)上(shang)反復搓(cuo)揉,至面(mian)發筋時,搓(cuo)成長條(tiao),反復拉至12環(12根),細如發絲,截去(qu)兩頭取中間(jian)一段(約50克),放入(ru)油中炸至柿黃(huang)色撈出,裝入(ru)盤中,即可同(tong)黃(huang)河鯉魚一同(tong)上(shang)桌。