總(zong)溪(xi)河(he),發源于赫章(zhang),流經畢(bi)節七星關和納雍,下(xia)(xia)游(you)接(jie)六沖(chong)河(he)入烏江。在納雍縣城東北面維新(xin)鎮、厙東關鄉、董(dong)地(di)鄉境內。從總(zong)溪(xi)河(he)大(da)橋(萬壽橋)至(zhi)下(xia)(xia)游(you)一段,長十二(er)公(gong)里(li),水面寬三(san)四十米,水深二(er)三(san)米。
河道蜿蜒曲折,水流有時平穩如鏡,有時波浪排空。兩岸青山對峙,峭壁入云,猴鳴鳥啼,飛瀑鳴響,洞穴成群。乘船而下,宛若置身雄奇的三峽和秀麗的漓江。 總溪河原名“總機河”,因(yin)水(shui)西安氏四十(shi)(shi)八(ba)目之一的總(zong)機安文思(si)居住于此得名(ming)。后稱“總(zong)溪”, 意為眾流(liu)成涇。兩(liang)岸有(you)銀灣子、五(wu)簸(bo)浪、一線天、觀猴巖、石龍(long)、三級飛瀑、段家灣口等景點(dian)。清代汪炳瑟璈(ao)泛舟河上,有(you)《題總(zong)機河》詩:“漫漫河水(shui)路(lu)回(hui)旋,河流(liu)總(zong)機浪接天。百里流(liu)來(lai)千(qian)里會,一波(bo)折去萬(wan)波(bo)連。浮沉(chen)野(ye)鶩穿(chuan)新(xin)漲,欸乃漁郎泛小船。翹(qiao)首巖扇絕險處,石橋(qiao)洞口鎖晴川。” 萬(wan)壽橋(qiao)是畢節、納雍公(gong)路(lu)的要(yao)津。橋(qiao)長(chang)六十(shi)(shi)米,寬八(ba)點(dian)五(wu)米,高二(er)十(shi)(shi)五(wu)米,架兩(liang)山間。建(jian)于清道光十(shi)(shi)九年(公(gong)元1839年),橋(qiao)頭(tou)立有(you)兩(liang)塊石碑,
記載(zai)造橋(qiao)始末。“總己河(he)(he)(he)原有(you)(you)渡(du)船(chuan),每(mei)遇水(shui)泛之期(qi)”,“對河(he)(he)(he)兩岸苦守水(shui)退,方(fang)(fang)能開(kai)渡(du),因此(ci)舉念修(xiu)造石(shi)橋(qiao)”。 沿河(he)(he)(he)兩岸大小洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)穴(xue)數十個(ge)。有(you)(you)的(de)高居山頂,橫臥絕壁:有(you)(you)的(de)半潛入水(shui),輕披晶簾。“宣(xuan)慰(wei)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)”在(zai)大橋(qiao)下(xia)游五公里左岸絕壁上,洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)口距水(shui)面一(yi)百五六十米。周圍林木茂盛,空谷傳響。相傳清康熙(xi)三年(nian)(公元1664年(nian))吳三桂征水(shui)西,貴州(zhou)宣(xuan)慰(wei)使安坤率部據(ju)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)扼守,數日不出(chu),因此(ci)得(de)名(ming)。今洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)所在(zai)附(fu)近,有(you)(you)奢香(xiang)驛道遺(yi)跡(ji)(ji)。洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)深(shen)四公里,有(you)(you)一(yi)條(tiao)主巷道,十來條(tiao)分(fen)道。洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)中有(you)(you)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong),洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)相連。橋(qiao)下(xia)游十公里彭家洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong),洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)深(shen)四公里,鐘乳石(shi)倒懸(xuan),如(ru)群龍飛舞。山山嶺嶺被(bei)森林覆蓋(gai),面積達七萬(wan)多畝,出(chu)產聞名(ming)的(de)“納墨玉”。 總溪河(he)(he)(he)流經約十二(er)公里后(hou),進入溶(rong)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)成為伏流,在(zai)地下(xia)潛流二(er)點(dian)五公里。地表是險峻的(de)梯子巖,為納雍與大方(fang)(fang)交界處,危峰(feng)突(tu)兀,壁如(ru)刀切(qie),十分(fen)險要。1935年(nian)4月,紅九軍(jun)(jun)團長征時在(zai)大方(fang)(fang)貓場被(bei)國民黨軍(jun)(jun)隊及地萬(wan)武(wu)裝包圍,在(zai)軍(jun)(jun)團長羅炳(bing)輝(hui)、政委何長工指揮(hui)下(xia),突(tu)破(po)重圍,翻越梯子巖進入納雍。這一(yi)帶有(you)(you)許多關于(yu)紅軍(jun)(jun)的(de)史跡(ji)(ji)和(he)革命遺(yi)址(zhi)。 河(he)(he)(he)水(shui)出(chu)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)后(hou),明流一(yi)點(dian)五公里,再次進入溶(rong)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong),形成第二(er)段伏流。伏流時隱時現,有(you)(you)仙(xian)人洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)、大穿洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)等“九洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)天(tian)”溶(rong)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)群。