靈巖(yan)山(shan)(shan)位于江南水鄉蘇州(zhou)西(xi)南的(de)木瀆靈巖(yan)山(shan)(shan),因為(wei)靈巖(yan)塔(ta)前有一塊"靈芝石(shi)(shi)(shi)"十分有名,因此得名"靈巖(yan)山(shan)(shan)"。 山(shan)(shan)上多(duo)奇石(shi)(shi)(shi)。巨巖(yan)嵯峨(e),怪石(shi)(shi)(shi)嶙峋,物(wu)象宛然,得于仿佛。舊有"十二奇石(shi)(shi)(shi)"或"十八奇石(shi)(shi)(shi)"之說。
靈(ling)巖山有(you)"靈(ling)巖秀絕冠江南(nan)"和(he)"靈(ling)巖奇絕勝天(tian)臺"的(de)美譽。有(you)昂首攀(pan)游狀的(de)石(shi)蛇,敲打(da)有(you)聲的(de)石(shi)鼓,狀若發團(tuan)的(de)石(shi)髫,伸首隆背的(de)石(shi)龜,兩耳直(zhi)豎的(de)石(shi)兔,形影(ying)不離的(de)鴛鴦(yang)石(shi),埋頭藏(zang)泥(ni)的(de)牛背石(shi)等。
靈巖山,本是春秋(qiu)時代吳王(wang)夫(fu)差館娃宮(gong)的舊址,也是越(yue)國(guo)獻西施(shi)的地方(fang)。現(xian)今尚存(cun)吳王(wang)遺跡和古跡有:吳王(wang)井、梳(shu)妝臺(tai)(tai)、玩花池、玩月池、響廊、琴臺(tai)(tai)、西施(shi)洞(dong)、智積井、長壽亭、方(fang)亭等(deng)。
沿登(deng)山(shan)御道(dao)拾級而(er)上(shang),首先是繼廬亭(ting)(ting),因靈巖(yan)(yan)山(shan)住持,一(yi)代(dai)(dai)名僧印(yin)光(guang)法師(shi)(shi)的別號繼廬而(er)得名。亭(ting)(ting)柱上(shang)有(you)(you)(you)對聯“大路一(yi)條,到(dao)此(ci)齊心向(xiang)上(shang);好(hao)山(shan)四面(mian),歸來另眼相(xiang)(xiang)看”。接著是迎(ying)笑(xiao)亭(ting)(ting),相(xiang)(xiang)傳始建于宋代(dai)(dai),東坡居士曾(ceng)在此(ci)笑(xiao)迎(ying)釋友。盤(pan)折(zhe)(zhe)再(zai)上(shang)是“落(luo)紅亭(ting)(ting)”,靈巖(yan)(yan)也有(you)(you)(you)“象山(shan)”之(zhi)(zhi)稱,舊有(you)(you)(you)“象王回顧落(luo)花(hua)紅”之(zhi)(zhi)句,這里(li)是觀日落(luo)之(zhi)(zhi)佳處。亭(ting)(ting)東乃印(yin)光(guang)塔(ta)(ta)院,為印(yin)光(guang)和尚(shang)埋骨處。印(yin)光(guang)法師(shi)(shi)(1861~1940)為近(jin)代(dai)(dai)佛(fo)(fo)教(jiao)界泰斗、凈(jing)土宗一(yi)代(dai)(dai)宗師(shi)(shi),東南亞印(yin)光(guang)派創(chuang)始人。落(luo)紅亭(ting)(ting)西(xi)有(you)(you)(you)西(xi)施(shi)(shi)洞,相(xiang)(xiang)傳越王勾踐與范蠡獻西(xi)施(shi)(shi)給(gei)吳王夫差(cha)于此(ci)等候。后人在洞前建屋,洞內(nei)鐫刻觀音(yin)像(xiang),洞外(wai)種有(you)(you)(you)紫竹,所以(yi)又(you)名“觀音(yin)洞”,香(xiang)火(huo)頗旺。落(luo)紅亭(ting)(ting)左折(zhe)(zhe)而(er)上(shang)約300余步(bu),人稱“百步(bu)階”,為乾隆帝登(deng)靈巖(yan)(yan)時所筑御道(dao)的一(yi)段,山(shan)勢陡峻(jun)。道(dao)旁(pang)有(you)(you)(you)一(yi)方形(xing)(xing)磚(zhuan)砌(qi)之(zhi)(zhi)臺為梁代(dai)(dai)靈巖(yan)(yan)山(shan)開山(shan)和尚(shang)智積的衣缽塔(ta)(ta),塔(ta)(ta)南有(you)(you)(you)一(yi)巨石,形(xing)(xing)似烏龜(gui),昂首面(mian)向(xiang)太湖(hu),故(gu)有(you)(you)(you)“烏龜(gui)望(wang)太湖(hu)”之(zhi)(zhi)說(shuo)(shuo)。石背鐫有(you)(you)(you)“望(wang)佛(fo)(fo)來”三(san)字,石上(shang)有(you)(you)(you)腳印(yin),據說(shuo)(shuo)西(xi)施(shi)(shi)常站在此(ci)石上(shang)眺(tiao)望(wang)故(gu)鄉。
山(shan)頂是靈巖寺(si)(si),即吳(wu)(wu)王(wang)“館娃宮(gong)(gong)”的(de)舊址(zhi)。春秋吳(wu)(wu)越(yue)夫(fu)椒(jiao)一戰,越(yue)國(guo)大(da)敗,越(yue)王(wang)勾(gou)踐(jian)和大(da)夫(fu)范蠡被押(ya)為(wei)(wei)人(ren)質(zhi),居住在(zai)石室之中,向夫(fu)差(cha)獻(xian)上(shang)越(yue)中美女西施。吳(wu)(wu)王(wang)夫(fu)差(cha)為(wei)(wei)西施在(zai)靈巖山(shan)上(shang)建(jian)造行宮(gong)(gong),銅鉤玉檻,奢(she)侈(chi)無(wu)比。吳(wu)(wu)人(ren)稱(cheng)美女為(wei)(wei)娃,故名(ming)“館娃宮(gong)(gong)”。公元前473年(nian)(nian),越(yue)王(wang)勾(gou)踐(jian)從(cong)水路攻(gong)進吳(wu)(wu)國(guo),把(ba)這富麗(li)堂皇的(de)館娃宮(gong)(gong)付之一炬,燒成斷壁(bi)殘垣。東晉時有人(ren)在(zai)靈巖山(shan)吳(wu)(wu)宮(gong)(gong)遺(yi)址(zhi)修建(jian)別(bie)業。后舍宅為(wei)(wei)寺(si)(si),南朝梁天監二年(nian)(nian)(503年(nian)(nian))擴(kuo)建(jian)為(wei)(wei)寺(si)(si)院(yuan),名(ming)“秀峰寺(si)(si)”。唐代(dai)改(gai)稱(cheng)靈巖寺(si)(si)。
靈(ling)巖寺(si)現存寺(si)院規模宏大(da)(da),為(wei)典型的中國佛教凈土道(dao)場之一。靈(ling)巖寺(si)建在山頂,高聳入(ru)云,巍峨(e)壯觀(guan)。寺(si)門前(qian)松柏參天(tian),門額(e)“靈(ling)巖山寺(si)” 為(wei)趙(zhao)樸初(chu)題寫。進(jin)門便是天(tian)王殿,亦稱彌勒閣,殿中央供(gong)(gong)奉天(tian)冠(guan)彌勒,背后(hou)(hou)(hou)供(gong)(gong)韋馱(tuo)菩薩,兩(liang)側排列著四大(da)(da)天(tian)王。再進(jin)為(wei)前(qian)院,院中有池名硯池,池上架(jia)有“界清橋”,據說大(da)(da)雨后(hou)(hou)(hou),橋東之水清,橋西之水濁(zhuo)。大(da)(da)雄(xiong)(xiong)寶殿高25米(mi),寬20米(mi),氣勢雄(xiong)(xiong)偉(wei)莊嚴,正中供(gong)(gong)奉釋(shi)迦牟尼佛巨像,迦葉、阿難兩(liang)弟子侍立兩(liang)旁(pang),佛祖(zu)背后(hou)(hou)(hou)為(wei)海島觀(guan)音,東西兩(liang)壁排列十六(liu)羅(luo)漢。大(da)(da)殿后(hou)(hou)(hou)壁供(gong)(gong)奉文殊、普賢。
位于大殿東側的靈巖(yan)塔初建于梁代(dai)天監二年,歷經滄桑,現為(wei)七級(ji)八面磚(zhuan)塔,挺拔聳立(li),是靈巖(yan)山的標志,凡(fan)來游(you)山者莫不在此留影(ying)紀念。靈巖(yan)塔又稱多(duo)寶塔,高34米,7級(ji)8面,磚(zhuan)木結構、樓(lou)閣式(shi)。游(you)人可拾級(ji)登塔,極(ji)目遠眺(tiao)姑蘇景色。塔南有鐘樓(lou),樓(lou)高15.3米,為(wei)兩層木構。上(shang)懸(xuan)大鐘,下置地藏佛(fo)像。
靈(ling)巖(yan)山寺西(xi)(xi)部以花(hua)(hua)園(yuan)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)主,俗稱山頂花(hua)(hua)園(yuan)。園(yuan)內浣花(hua)(hua)池(chi)相傳西(xi)(xi)施于(yu)此泛舟采蓮。池(chi)西(xi)(xi)有石(shi)城,即山顛(dian)圍(wei)墻,相傳為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)吳(wu)(wu)王闔閭所筑(zhu),以石(shi)砌(qi)成(cheng)冰紋形(xing)。玩月(yue)池(chi)曾(ceng)(ceng)供(gong)西(xi)(xi)施玩月(yue)。吳(wu)(wu)王井(jing)呈圓形(xing),也為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)吳(wu)(wu)宮遺(yi)井(jing),曾(ceng)(ceng)供(gong)西(xi)(xi)施照(zhao)容。智積井(jing)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)八角形(xing),因是梁(liang)代(dai)智積和尚修浚,故名(ming)。井(jing)中泉水甘例,煮茗甚佳。井(jing)北砌(qi)有假山,上有“長壽亭(ting)”,傳為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)西(xi)(xi)施梳妝之(zhi)所。靈(ling)巖(yan)山的最高處位于(yu)靈(ling)巖(yan)寺之(zhi)西(xi)(xi)的琴臺,相傳西(xi)(xi)施操琴于(yu)此。
靈(ling)巖山南(nan)有(you)采香涇,專為西施(shi)去香山采種香草(cao)之(zhi)用,傳(chuan)說是依據(ju)吳王一(yi)箭所射的方向(xiang)而開(kai)鑿,所以又叫“一(yi)箭河(he)”。山西南(nan)麓(lu)有(you)韓(han)世(shi)忠墓(mu)。南(nan)宋抗(kang)金名(ming)將韓(han)世(shi)忠和(he)夫(fu)人(ren)梁紅玉合葬于(yu)此,墓(mu)碑(bei)巨大,碑(bei)文(wen)長達13000余字。靈(ling)巖山南(nan)麓(lu)香水(shui)溪北,百步小浜石(shi)橋東(dong)有(you)清(qing)初詩人(ren)張永(yong)夫(fu)之(zhi)墓(mu)。
靈(ling)巖山(shan)位(wei)于(yu)吳(wu)中區木瀆鎮西北,北距(ju)天平山(shan)2公里。
從蘇州火車(che)站出發,乘坐游4線(xian)公交車(che),到(dao)達底站木瀆嚴(yan)家花(hua)園,向前(qian)步(bu)行(xing)500米(mi),到(dao)三岔路(lu)口往左前(qian)步(bu)行(xing)300米(mi)到(dao)達靈(ling)巖山(shan)大門(men)口。
從(cong)吳(wu)中汽車(che)(che)站(zhan)(zhan)(zhan) 約(yue)(yue)步行404米(mi)(mi)到(dao)石湖東路(lu)站(zhan)(zhan)(zhan)地(di)鐵站(zhan)(zhan)(zhan), 乘(cheng)坐地(di)鐵2號(hao)線(xian)經(jing)(jing)過(guo)8站(zhan)(zhan)(zhan),在(zai)廣濟南路(lu)站(zhan)(zhan)(zhan)下車(che)(che) ,站(zhan)(zhan)(zhan)內換乘(cheng)地(di)鐵1號(hao)線(xian), 乘(cheng)坐地(di)鐵1號(hao)線(xian)經(jing)(jing)過(guo)9站(zhan)(zhan)(zhan),在(zai)木(mu)瀆(du)站(zhan)(zhan)(zhan)下車(che)(che) 約(yue)(yue)步行32米(mi)(mi)到(dao)木(mu)瀆(du)換乘(cheng)樞(shu)紐站(zhan)(zhan)(zhan), 乘(cheng)坐668路(lu)經(jing)(jing)過(guo)5站(zhan)(zhan)(zhan),在(zai)方家橋下車(che)(che) ,約(yue)(yue)步行188米(mi)(mi)到(dao)靈(ling)巖山 ,便到(dao)達終點(dian)靈(ling)巖山。
從京滬高鐵蘇州北站(zhan)(zhan)步(bu)行(xing)約150米,到(dao)達高鐵蘇州北站(zhan)(zhan),乘(cheng)坐地鐵2號(hao)(hao)線(xian),經(jing)過(guo)12站(zhan)(zhan), 到(dao)達廣(guang)濟南路站(zhan)(zhan),步(bu)行(xing)約80米,換(huan)乘(cheng)地鐵1號(hao)(hao)線(xian),乘(cheng)坐地鐵1號(hao)(hao)線(xian),經(jing)過(guo)9站(zhan)(zhan), 到(dao)達木(mu)瀆站(zhan)(zhan),步(bu)行(xing)約240米,到(dao)達木(mu)瀆換(huan)乘(cheng)樞(shu)紐站(zhan)(zhan),乘(cheng)坐583路,經(jing)過(guo)4站(zhan)(zhan), 到(dao)達靈巖(yan)山東站(zhan)(zhan)(也(ye)可乘(cheng)坐668路、507路、621路),步(bu)行(xing)約40米,到(dao)達靈巖(yan)山首末(mo)站(zhan)(zhan)。
北(bei)西走向(xiang),長(chang)2.3公里,寬1.2公里,海拔182米。靈巖(yan)山山體由(you)花崗巖(yan)構成,巖(yan)石球(qiu)狀風(feng)化明(ming)顯(xian)。
山(shan)(shan)(shan)多奇石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi),狀如靈(ling)芝,故名;遠望山(shan)(shan)(shan)勢右(you)旋似巨象回顧(gu),亦(yi)稱(cheng)象山(shan)(shan)(shan);山(shan)(shan)(shan)西(xi)(xi)麓出(chu)產(chan)板巖是蘇州工藝品——藏(zang)書靈(ling)巖山(shan)(shan)(shan)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)硯(yan)(俗稱(cheng)澄泥硯(yan))等石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)雕產(chan)品的料石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi),又稱(cheng)硯(yan)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)山(shan)(shan)(shan);山(shan)(shan)(shan)南(nan)峭(qiao)壁如城(cheng),故又名石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)城(cheng)山(shan)(shan)(shan);因山(shan)(shan)(shan)南(nan)有(you)(you)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)射堋、石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)鼓(gu),亦(yi)稱(cheng)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)鼓(gu)山(shan)(shan)(shan)。北宋《吳郡圖經(jing)續記》:“硯(yan)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)山(shan)(shan)(shan),在吳縣西(xi)(xi)二十一里。山(shan)(shan)(shan)西(xi)(xi)有(you)(you)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)鼓(gu),亦(yi)名石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)鼓(gu)山(shan)(shan)(shan)。……山(shan)(shan)(shan)相連(lian)屬,有(you)(you)村。其山(shan)(shan)(shan)出(chu)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi),可(ke)以(yi)為(wei)硯(yan),蓋硯(yan)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)之(zhi)名不虛也。”
靈(ling)巖(yan)山(shan)(shan)(shan)怪石嶙峋,松林滿山(shan)(shan)(shan),殿宇雄偉,古塔(ta)聳立,尤多吳宮(gong)(gong)遺(yi)(yi)(yi)跡(ji),為蘇(su)州(zhou)旅(lv)游勝(sheng)地。沿山(shan)(shan)(shan)路向上(shang)(shang),可見一(yi)徑穿亭(ting)、蒼翠(cui)迎人、落紅(hong)夕照、塔(ta)院松風(feng)、醉僧待(dai)渡、越女遺(yi)(yi)(yi)蹤、太湖在望(wang)、箭涇采香、秀峰古剎、靈(ling)巖(yan)塔(ta)影、蕭寺鐘(zhong)聲(sheng)、萬家(jia)燈火(huo)、山(shan)(shan)(shan)管擁翠(cui)、吳宮(gong)(gong)遺(yi)(yi)(yi)址、山(shan)(shan)(shan)頂(ding)花(hua)園、修廊響屟、琴臺浴暉、蘄岳同輝等靈(ling)巖(yan)十八(ba)景。山(shan)(shan)(shan)頂(ding)花(hua)園內(nei)有(you)方形玩花(hua)池,一(yi)名浣(huan)花(hua)池。玩月池旁假山(shan)(shan)(shan)上(shang)(shang)有(you)長壽亭(ting),相傳為西施梳妝臺遺(yi)(yi)(yi)址。亭(ting)西有(you)石墻(qiang),相傳是春秋時期館娃宮(gong)(gong)宮(gong)(gong)墻(qiang)遺(yi)(yi)(yi)跡(ji)。