靈(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)巖山(shan)(shan)(shan)位于(yu)江南(nan)水鄉(xiang)蘇州西南(nan)的木瀆(du)靈(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)巖山(shan)(shan)(shan),因為(wei)靈(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)巖塔前有一塊"靈(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)芝石"十分有名,因此得名"靈(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)巖山(shan)(shan)(shan)"。 山(shan)(shan)(shan)上多奇(qi)石。巨巖嵯峨,怪(guai)石嶙峋,物(wu)象宛(wan)然(ran),得于(yu)仿佛。舊有"十二奇(qi)石"或"十八奇(qi)石"之說。
靈(ling)巖(yan)山有"靈(ling)巖(yan)秀絕(jue)冠江南"和"靈(ling)巖(yan)奇絕(jue)勝天臺"的美(mei)譽。有昂首(shou)攀(pan)游(you)狀(zhuang)的石蛇,敲打(da)有聲的石鼓,狀(zhuang)若發(fa)團(tuan)的石髫(tiao),伸(shen)首(shou)隆背的石龜(gui),兩耳直豎的石兔,形影不離的鴛(yuan)鴦(yang)石,埋頭藏泥的牛背石等(deng)。
靈(ling)巖山,本是(shi)春秋(qiu)時(shi)代吳(wu)王夫(fu)差館(guan)娃(wa)宮的(de)舊址,也是(shi)越國獻(xian)西施的(de)地方。現今尚存吳(wu)王遺(yi)跡(ji)和古跡(ji)有:吳(wu)王井、梳妝(zhuang)臺、玩花池、玩月池、響廊、琴臺、西施洞(dong)、智積(ji)井、長(chang)壽亭(ting)、方亭(ting)等。
沿(yan)登(deng)山御(yu)道拾級而上(shang)(shang),首先是(shi)繼廬亭,因靈(ling)巖山住持(chi),一代(dai)名(ming)僧印(yin)光(guang)法師(shi)的別號繼廬而得名(ming)。亭柱上(shang)(shang)有(you)對(dui)聯(lian)“大路一條,到此齊(qi)心(xin)向上(shang)(shang);好山四面,歸(gui)來(lai)另眼相(xiang)看”。接著是(shi)迎(ying)笑亭,相(xiang)傳(chuan)始建(jian)于宋代(dai),東(dong)坡居士曾在(zai)此笑迎(ying)釋友。盤(pan)折再上(shang)(shang)是(shi)“落紅(hong)亭”,靈(ling)巖也有(you)“象山”之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)稱,舊有(you)“象王(wang)回顧落花紅(hong)”之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)句,這(zhe)里是(shi)觀日落之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)佳(jia)處(chu)。亭東(dong)乃印(yin)光(guang)塔院,為印(yin)光(guang)和尚(shang)埋骨(gu)處(chu)。印(yin)光(guang)法師(shi)(1861~1940)為近(jin)代(dai)佛(fo)(fo)教界泰斗、凈土宗一代(dai)宗師(shi),東(dong)南亞印(yin)光(guang)派(pai)創始人(ren)。落紅(hong)亭西(xi)有(you)西(xi)施(shi)洞(dong)(dong)(dong),相(xiang)傳(chuan)越王(wang)勾(gou)踐與范(fan)蠡獻西(xi)施(shi)給吳王(wang)夫差于此等(deng)候(hou)。后人(ren)在(zai)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)前建(jian)屋,洞(dong)(dong)(dong)內鐫(juan)刻觀音像,洞(dong)(dong)(dong)外種(zhong)有(you)紫(zi)竹(zhu),所以又名(ming)“觀音洞(dong)(dong)(dong)”,香火頗旺。落紅(hong)亭左折而上(shang)(shang)約(yue)300余(yu)步,人(ren)稱“百步階(jie)”,為乾隆帝(di)登(deng)靈(ling)巖時所筑御(yu)道的一段,山勢陡(dou)峻。道旁有(you)一方形(xing)磚(zhuan)砌之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)臺為梁(liang)代(dai)靈(ling)巖山開山和尚(shang)智積(ji)的衣(yi)缽塔,塔南有(you)一巨(ju)石,形(xing)似(si)烏龜,昂首面向太(tai)湖,故(gu)有(you)“烏龜望(wang)太(tai)湖”之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)說。石背鐫(juan)有(you)“望(wang)佛(fo)(fo)來(lai)”三字,石上(shang)(shang)有(you)腳印(yin),據說西(xi)施(shi)常站在(zai)此石上(shang)(shang)眺望(wang)故(gu)鄉。
山(shan)頂是靈(ling)(ling)(ling)巖寺(si),即吳(wu)王(wang)“館(guan)娃(wa)宮(gong)”的舊址(zhi)。春秋吳(wu)越(yue)夫椒一戰,越(yue)國大敗,越(yue)王(wang)勾(gou)踐(jian)和大夫范蠡被押為(wei)人質,居住在(zai)石室之(zhi)中(zhong),向夫差獻(xian)上(shang)越(yue)中(zhong)美女(nv)西(xi)施。吳(wu)王(wang)夫差為(wei)西(xi)施在(zai)靈(ling)(ling)(ling)巖山(shan)上(shang)建(jian)造(zao)行宮(gong),銅鉤(gou)玉檻,奢侈無比(bi)。吳(wu)人稱美女(nv)為(wei)娃(wa),故(gu)名“館(guan)娃(wa)宮(gong)”。公(gong)元(yuan)前473年(nian)(nian),越(yue)王(wang)勾(gou)踐(jian)從水路攻(gong)進吳(wu)國,把這富麗堂皇(huang)的館(guan)娃(wa)宮(gong)付之(zhi)一炬,燒成斷壁殘垣。東(dong)晉時有人在(zai)靈(ling)(ling)(ling)巖山(shan)吳(wu)宮(gong)遺址(zhi)修建(jian)別業。后舍宅為(wei)寺(si),南朝梁天監二年(nian)(nian)(503年(nian)(nian))擴建(jian)為(wei)寺(si)院,名“秀峰寺(si)”。唐代(dai)改(gai)稱靈(ling)(ling)(ling)巖寺(si)。
靈巖寺(si)(si)現存寺(si)(si)院規模宏(hong)大(da)(da),為(wei)典型(xing)的中國佛(fo)(fo)教(jiao)凈(jing)土道場之(zhi)一。靈巖寺(si)(si)建在(zai)山頂,高聳入云,巍峨壯觀(guan)。寺(si)(si)門前(qian)(qian)松柏參(can)天(tian),門額“靈巖山寺(si)(si)” 為(wei)趙(zhao)樸初題(ti)寫。進(jin)門便是(shi)天(tian)王殿(dian),亦稱彌勒(le)閣(ge),殿(dian)中央供(gong)奉天(tian)冠彌勒(le),背后供(gong)韋馱菩(pu)薩,兩側(ce)排列著四大(da)(da)天(tian)王。再(zai)進(jin)為(wei)前(qian)(qian)院,院中有池名硯池,池上架(jia)有“界清(qing)橋”,據說大(da)(da)雨后,橋東(dong)之(zhi)水(shui)清(qing),橋西之(zhi)水(shui)濁。大(da)(da)雄寶殿(dian)高25米,寬20米,氣勢雄偉(wei)莊嚴,正中供(gong)奉釋迦(jia)牟尼佛(fo)(fo)巨像,迦(jia)葉、阿難兩弟子侍立兩旁,佛(fo)(fo)祖背后為(wei)海(hai)島觀(guan)音(yin),東(dong)西兩壁(bi)排列十六羅漢。大(da)(da)殿(dian)后壁(bi)供(gong)奉文殊(shu)、普賢。
位于大殿東(dong)側的靈巖塔(ta)初建(jian)于梁代天監二年,歷(li)經滄桑,現為(wei)七級八面磚(zhuan)塔(ta),挺拔聳立(li),是靈巖山的標志(zhi),凡來游(you)山者莫不在此留影紀念。靈巖塔(ta)又稱多(duo)寶塔(ta),高34米,7級8面,磚(zhuan)木結(jie)構、樓閣式。游(you)人可拾級登塔(ta),極目遠眺姑蘇景色(se)。塔(ta)南有鐘樓,樓高15.3米,為(wei)兩層木構。上懸大鐘,下置(zhi)地藏佛像(xiang)。
靈(ling)巖(yan)山寺(si)西(xi)部以(yi)花園為主,俗稱山頂花園。園內(nei)浣花池(chi)相傳西(xi)施于(yu)(yu)此泛舟(zhou)采蓮。池(chi)西(xi)有石城,即山顛圍墻,相傳為吳王闔閭所筑(zhu),以(yi)石砌成冰紋(wen)形。玩月(yue)池(chi)曾供(gong)西(xi)施玩月(yue)。吳王井(jing)呈(cheng)圓形,也為吳宮(gong)遺井(jing),曾供(gong)西(xi)施照(zhao)容(rong)。智積(ji)井(jing)為八(ba)角形,因是(shi)梁代智積(ji)和(he)尚(shang)修浚,故(gu)名。井(jing)中泉水(shui)甘例(li),煮(zhu)茗甚佳。井(jing)北砌有假山,上有“長壽亭”,傳為西(xi)施梳(shu)妝之所。靈(ling)巖(yan)山的最(zui)高處位(wei)于(yu)(yu)靈(ling)巖(yan)寺(si)之西(xi)的琴(qin)臺,相傳西(xi)施操琴(qin)于(yu)(yu)此。
靈巖(yan)山(shan)南(nan)有(you)采香(xiang)(xiang)涇,專為(wei)西施去香(xiang)(xiang)山(shan)采種香(xiang)(xiang)草之用,傳說(shuo)是依據吳王(wang)一箭所(suo)射的方向而開鑿(zao),所(suo)以又叫“一箭河(he)”。山(shan)西南(nan)麓有(you)韓世(shi)忠墓(mu)。南(nan)宋抗金名將(jiang)韓世(shi)忠和夫人(ren)梁紅玉合葬于此,墓(mu)碑巨(ju)大,碑文長達13000余字。靈巖(yan)山(shan)南(nan)麓香(xiang)(xiang)水(shui)溪北(bei),百步小(xiao)浜石橋東有(you)清初詩人(ren)張永夫之墓(mu)。
靈巖山(shan)位于(yu)吳中區木瀆鎮西北,北距天平山(shan)2公里。
從蘇(su)州火車站出發(fa),乘坐游4線(xian)公交(jiao)車,到(dao)達底站木瀆嚴家(jia)花園(yuan),向前步(bu)行500米,到(dao)三岔路口往左前步(bu)行300米到(dao)達靈巖山大(da)門口。
從(cong)吳(wu)中汽車(che)站 約步(bu)(bu)行404米(mi)到(dao)石(shi)湖(hu)東路站地(di)鐵站, 乘坐(zuo)地(di)鐵2號(hao)(hao)線經過8站,在廣濟南路站下(xia)車(che) ,站內換(huan)乘地(di)鐵1號(hao)(hao)線, 乘坐(zuo)地(di)鐵1號(hao)(hao)線經過9站,在木(mu)瀆站下(xia)車(che) 約步(bu)(bu)行32米(mi)到(dao)木(mu)瀆換(huan)乘樞紐站, 乘坐(zuo)668路經過5站,在方家橋下(xia)車(che) ,約步(bu)(bu)行188米(mi)到(dao)靈(ling)巖山 ,便到(dao)達終點靈(ling)巖山。
從京滬高(gao)鐵(tie)蘇州北(bei)站(zhan)(zhan)步(bu)行(xing)(xing)(xing)約150米(mi)(mi),到達高(gao)鐵(tie)蘇州北(bei)站(zhan)(zhan),乘(cheng)坐地鐵(tie)2號(hao)線,經(jing)過12站(zhan)(zhan), 到達廣濟南路站(zhan)(zhan),步(bu)行(xing)(xing)(xing)約80米(mi)(mi),換(huan)乘(cheng)地鐵(tie)1號(hao)線,乘(cheng)坐地鐵(tie)1號(hao)線,經(jing)過9站(zhan)(zhan), 到達木瀆(du)(du)站(zhan)(zhan),步(bu)行(xing)(xing)(xing)約240米(mi)(mi),到達木瀆(du)(du)換(huan)乘(cheng)樞紐站(zhan)(zhan),乘(cheng)坐583路,經(jing)過4站(zhan)(zhan), 到達靈(ling)巖山東站(zhan)(zhan)(也可乘(cheng)坐668路、507路、621路),步(bu)行(xing)(xing)(xing)約40米(mi)(mi),到達靈(ling)巖山首末站(zhan)(zhan)。
北西走向(xiang),長2.3公(gong)里,寬1.2公(gong)里,海拔182米。靈巖(yan)山(shan)山(shan)體由花崗巖(yan)構成(cheng),巖(yan)石球狀風化明顯。
山多奇石(shi),狀如(ru)靈(ling)芝(zhi),故名(ming);遠望山勢右(you)旋似巨象回顧,亦(yi)稱象山;山西(xi)(xi)麓出產(chan)板巖(yan)是蘇(su)州工藝(yi)品(pin)——藏書靈(ling)巖(yan)山石(shi)硯(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(俗稱澄(cheng)泥硯(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan))等石(shi)雕產(chan)品(pin)的料石(shi),又(you)稱硯(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)石(shi)山;山南峭壁如(ru)城(cheng),故又(you)名(ming)石(shi)城(cheng)山;因(yin)山南有(you)石(shi)射堋(peng)、石(shi)鼓,亦(yi)稱石(shi)鼓山。北(bei)宋(song)《吳郡(jun)圖(tu)經續(xu)記》:“硯(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)石(shi)山,在(zai)吳縣西(xi)(xi)二十(shi)一(yi)里。山西(xi)(xi)有(you)石(shi)鼓,亦(yi)名(ming)石(shi)鼓山。……山相連(lian)屬,有(you)村。其山出石(shi),可(ke)以為硯(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan),蓋硯(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)石(shi)之名(ming)不虛也。”
靈巖山(shan)(shan)怪石嶙峋,松(song)林(lin)滿山(shan)(shan),殿(dian)宇雄偉,古塔(ta)聳(song)立,尤(you)多吳宮(gong)遺跡,為(wei)蘇州(zhou)旅游勝地(di)。沿(yan)山(shan)(shan)路向上,可見(jian)一徑穿亭(ting)(ting)、蒼(cang)翠迎人、落紅(hong)夕照(zhao)、塔(ta)院松(song)風、醉僧待渡、越女遺蹤、太湖(hu)在(zai)望(wang)、箭涇采(cai)香、秀峰古剎、靈巖塔(ta)影、蕭(xiao)寺鐘聲(sheng)、萬家燈火(huo)、山(shan)(shan)管(guan)擁翠、吳宮(gong)遺址、山(shan)(shan)頂(ding)花園(yuan)、修(xiu)廊響屟、琴(qin)臺(tai)浴暉(hui)、蘄岳同(tong)輝等靈巖十八景。山(shan)(shan)頂(ding)花園(yuan)內有方形玩花池,一名(ming)浣花池。玩月池旁(pang)假山(shan)(shan)上有長壽(shou)亭(ting)(ting),相傳(chuan)為(wei)西(xi)施(shi)梳妝臺(tai)遺址。亭(ting)(ting)西(xi)有石墻,相傳(chuan)是春秋時期館娃宮(gong)宮(gong)墻遺跡。