煎(jian)(jian)餅(bing)食(shi)品有(you)著悠(you)久的(de)(de)(de)歷史(shi)的(de)(de)(de)傳統面食(shi),早(zao)在(zai)春秋戰國(guo)時期,山(shan)東沂蒙人(ren)民即開始食(shi)用煎(jian)(jian)餅(bing),相傳孟姜女哭長城,所帶(dai)食(shi)物即煎(jian)(jian)餅(bing)。清代蒲松齡在(zai)其(qi)《煎(jian)(jian)餅(bing)賦》中寫到(dao),“煎(jian)(jian)餅(bing)則合米豆為之(zhi)(zhi),齊(qi)人(ren)以(yi)代面食(shi)”,“圓如(ru)(ru)(ru)(ru)銀月,大(da)如(ru)(ru)(ru)(ru)銅(tong)缸(gang),薄如(ru)(ru)(ru)(ru)剡(yan)溪之(zhi)(zhi)紙,色如(ru)(ru)(ru)(ru)黃(huang)鶴(he)之(zhi)(zhi)翎,此煎(jian)(jian)餅(bing)之(zhi)(zhi)定制也”。文中,蒲松齡用它那如(ru)(ru)(ru)(ru)掾大(da)筆,把煎(jian)(jian)餅(bing)的(de)(de)(de)形狀、色澤、大(da)小、原料(liao)、制作(zuo)以(yi)及味(wei)道、功用等(deng)描述得淋漓盡致。千(qian)百年來,人(ren)們在(zai)實(shi)踐中不(bu)斷改(gai)進工藝,增添品種,使其(qi)成為久盛不(bu)衰、享譽海內外的(de)(de)(de)名優食(shi)品。
制(zhi)作(zuo)煎(jian)餅(bing)(bing)有(you)獨特的(de)(de)工具,主要(yao)有(you)鏊(ao)(ao)子(zi)、攤子(zi)、推(tui)(tui)子(zi)、油(you)鬧子(zi)等。鏊(ao)(ao)子(zi),系(xi)用(yong)生鐵(tie)鑄(zhu)造,直徑一(yi)(yi)米(mi),中間微凸(tu)略(lve)厚(hou),邊緣較薄,形(xing)如禿頭鍋蓋,上(shang)面平整光(guang)滑,下面有(you)三支角可以(yi)作(zuo)為支撐。過去的(de)(de)鏊(ao)(ao)子(zi)是固定的(de)(de),有(you)人(ren)又(you)(you)制(zhi)出了可以(yi)轉動的(de)(de)鏊(ao)(ao)子(zi),以(yi)提(ti)高(gao)產量。攤子(zi)(又(you)(you)稱刮子(zi)),用(yong)木片做成,呈長方(fang)形(xing),長寬(kuan)比(bi)例為2:1,把手(shou)(shou)居中,看(kan)起(qi)來(lai)很像一(yi)(yi)把砍刀,而(er)且更光(guang)滑,使(shi)用(yong)時橫(heng)握把手(shou)(shou),左推(tui)(tui)右抹,是攤煎(jian)餅(bing)(bing)的(de)(de)主要(yao)工具。推(tui)(tui)子(zi)(又(you)(you)稱耙(pa)子(zi))類似(si)無齒(chi)耙(pa)。將長方(fang)竹片,上(shang)面垂直按(an)(an)上(shang)一(yi)(yi)個把手(shou)(shou),可以(yi)用(yong)手(shou)(shou)拖曳,也(ye)就是用(yong)來(lai)“攤”煎(jian)餅(bing)(bing)的(de)(de)。油(you)鬧子(zi),用(yong)白(bai)凈棉(mian)紗,按(an)(an)做口罩的(de)(de)方(fang)法疊它三十來(lai)層,壓實,用(yong)棉(mian)線細(xi)細(xi)密密的(de)(de)納牢(lao)后,放(fang)入清油(you)(花生油(you))里浸透(tou),再拿出來(lai)晾干即可使(shi)用(yong)。其它如和(he)面、發酵等工具可因(yin)時、因(yin)地、因(yin)人(ren)而(er)異。
加(jia)(jia)工煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing),當(dang)(dang)(dang)地人(ren)稱“攤(tan)(tan)(tan)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)”。攤(tan)(tan)(tan)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)是(shi)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)項專(zhuan)門(men)的(de)(de)技藝(yi),做法有刮(gua)、攤(tan)(tan)(tan)、滾(gun)(gun)、搟等(deng)多(duo)種制(zhi)(zhi)作方法。加(jia)(jia)工煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)首先(xian)要制(zhi)(zhi)糊(hu)(hu),將所用(yong)(yong)原料加(jia)(jia)水,用(yong)(yong)石磨推(tui)成(cheng)糊(hu)(hu)狀,當(dang)(dang)(dang)地人(ren)把(ba)這(zhe)叫“糊(hu)(hu)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)”。糊(hu)(hu)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)稠了(le)(le),勺子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)舀(yao)(yao)起來不能(neng)(neng)順暢地倒(dao)在(zai)(zai)鏊(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)上(shang)(shang),稀了(le)(le),在(zai)(zai)鏊(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)上(shang)(shang)四(si)散(san)流(liu)淌,稀稠適當(dang)(dang)(dang)才(cai)能(neng)(neng)攤(tan)(tan)(tan)出好(hao)(hao)的(de)(de)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)。刮(gua)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)是(shi)將糊(hu)(hu)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)舀(yao)(yao)在(zai)(zai)鏊(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)上(shang)(shang),用(yong)(yong)光滑(hua)的(de)(de)木片把(ba)面(mian)糊(hu)(hu)攤(tan)(tan)(tan)開,刮(gua)平,刮(gua)薄,刮(gua)均(jun)勻。漏(lou)了(le)(le)的(de)(de)地方,挑一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)點糊(hu)(hu)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)填上(shang)(shang),順手(shou)(shou)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)抹,天(tian)衣(yi)無(wu)縫。煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)熟時(shi),周邊會(hui)自動卷起,順手(shou)(shou)揭起來即可。滾(gun)(gun)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)則(ze)是(shi)將糊(hu)(hu)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)和(he)成(cheng)不軟不硬的(de)(de)面(mian)團,直接在(zai)(zai)鏊(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)上(shang)(shang)滾(gun)(gun),依靠鏊(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)的(de)(de)熱度把(ba)面(mian)團沾(zhan)在(zai)(zai)鏊(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)上(shang)(shang)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)層(ceng),然后再用(yong)(yong)刮(gua)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)抹即成(cheng)。攤(tan)(tan)(tan)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)是(shi)用(yong)(yong)耙子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(推(tui)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi))將舀(yao)(yao)到鏊(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)上(shang)(shang)的(de)(de)面(mian)糊(hu)(hu)從里(li)到外或(huo)從外到里(li)均(jun)勻攤(tan)(tan)(tan)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)圈,煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)糊(hu)(hu)所到之處就(jiu)會(hui)在(zai)(zai)熱鏊(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)上(shang)(shang)被(bei)迅速的(de)(de)凝固(gu),耙子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)的(de)(de)長(chang)短正(zheng)好(hao)(hao)等(deng)于(yu)鏊(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)的(de)(de)半徑,所以耙子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)繞場一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)周,就(jiu)成(cheng)了(le)(le)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)張(zhang)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)。糊(hu)(hu)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)制(zhi)(zhi)做好(hao)(hao)后立即加(jia)(jia)工,則(ze)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)甜,等(deng)糊(hu)(hu)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)發酵稍(shao)微有點酸味時(shi)再加(jia)(jia)工,就(jiu)是(shi)酸煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)。不論使用(yong)(yong)那(nei)種方法,手(shou)(shou)要麻利,火(huo)候還要適當(dang)(dang)(dang)。煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)很薄,很容易(yi)(yi)熟,火(huo)候大了(le)(le)或(huo)揭得(de)慢了(le)(le),煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)會(hui)焦糊(hu)(hu),火(huo)候小了(le)(le)或(huo)揭得(de)快了(le)(le),煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)則(ze)不熟,所以加(jia)(jia)工一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)張(zhang)好(hao)(hao)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)很有技巧,也(ye)很不容易(yi)(yi)。揭完一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)張(zhang)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing),要用(yong)(yong)油鬧(nao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)往鏊(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)上(shang)(shang)抹油,然后烙下一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)張(zhang)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)。好(hao)(hao)的(de)(de)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)要薄如白紙,厚(hou)度均(jun)勻,餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)面(mian)完整(zheng)。在(zai)(zai)臨沂(yi)加(jia)(jia)工煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)往往是(shi)家庭主婦的(de)(de)活(huo)(huo)兒(er),過去女(nv)孩子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)到了(le)(le)能(neng)(neng)干活(huo)(huo)的(de)(de)年(nian)紀,第一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)樣學的(de)(de)就(jiu)是(shi)制(zhi)(zhi)作煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing),過了(le)(le)門(men)的(de)(de)時(shi)候,公婆要考察新媳婦會(hui)不會(hui)做活(huo)(huo)兒(er),只要攤(tan)(tan)(tan)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)次煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)就(jiu)知道了(le)(le)。
一些廠家為了提高煎(jian)餅(bing)(bing)的產量(liang),使用機器(qi)像造紙一樣(yang)制作(zuo)煎(jian)餅(bing)(bing),這種煎(jian)餅(bing)(bing)雖然也(ye)很好吃,但其(qi)樣(yang)式(shi)、形狀、手感、味(wei)道均不如(ru)手工煎(jian)餅(bing)(bing)。
煎餅的吃法(fa)也很多。
煎(jian)餅卷(juan)大(da)蔥是眾人皆知的(de)(de)典(dian)型山(shan)東吃法,吃的(de)(de)時候,將又圓又薄(bo)的(de)(de)一大(da)張煎(jian)餅,放上一棵洗凈的(de)(de)大(da)蔥,沾上大(da)醬,然后順勢一卷(juan)即可。電影《紅日(ri)》中就(jiu)有(you)華野戰士吃煎(jian)餅卷(juan)大(da)蔥的(de)(de)經(jing)典(dian)鏡頭。
現今生活好(hao)了,吃(chi)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)配的(de)(de)(de)(de)菜(cai)(cai)肴也(ye)多(duo)了,卷(juan)(juan)(juan)豬頭肉(rou),卷(juan)(juan)(juan)芹菜(cai)(cai)牛肉(rou)渣,卷(juan)(juan)(juan)炸黃鯽子魚(yu),卷(juan)(juan)(juan)鮮(xian)香椿、腌(a)咸菜(cai)(cai)、蒜薹、辣(la)椒等(deng)等(deng)。美食家們還在(zai)做煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)上(shang)下(xia)(xia)功夫,有(you)的(de)(de)(de)(de)把雞蛋(dan)打在(zai)剛烙(luo)好(hao)還未下(xia)(xia)鏊子的(de)(de)(de)(de)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)上(shang);有(you)的(de)(de)(de)(de)將(jiang)大棗煮(zhu)熟,攪在(zai)“糊”中,做成(cheng)(cheng)營養豐(feng)富,口(kou)感軟(ruan)甜(tian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing);有(you)的(de)(de)(de)(de)把韭菜(cai)(cai)、雞蛋(dan)、豆腐(fu)炒好(hao),放入(ru)新攤的(de)(de)(de)(de)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)中,再用少(shao)量油煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)過(guo),做成(cheng)(cheng)菜(cai)(cai)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)等(deng)等(deng)。吃(chi)過(guo)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)的(de)(de)(de)(de)人都知道,剛剛從鏊子上(shang)揭(jie)下(xia)(xia)的(de)(de)(de)(de)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)是酥(su)脆松(song)軟(ruan)的(de)(de)(de)(de),可以(yi)將(jiang)其(qi)卷(juan)(juan)(juan)著吃(chi),所以(yi)才有(you)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)“卷(juan)(juan)(juan)”一說。冷卻的(de)(de)(de)(de)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)由于(yu)失去水(shui)(shui)分(fen)會(hui)很干(gan),但(dan)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)往往是疊在(zai)一起的(de)(de)(de)(de),漸漸又會(hui)返潮而變得柔(rou)軟(ruan),上(shang)面(mian)蓋上(shang)布就(jiu)會(hui)可以(yi)長期(qi)保持。待吃(chi)時,只(zhi)要揭(jie)一張就(jiu)成(cheng)(cheng),非(fei)常方便(bian)。煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)的(de)(de)(de)(de)特(te)性是失去水(shui)(shui)分(fen)后會(hui)變得干(gan)、脆、硬,即使五尺高的(de)(de)(de)(de)壯漢吃(chi)起來也(ye)會(hui)累的(de)(de)(de)(de)青筋暴露。可是用開(kai)水(shui)(shui)一泡,便(bian)立即柔(rou)軟(ruan)如面(mian),兒童、老人食用十(shi)分(fen)便(bian)利(li)。