蘇(su)(su)州文廟(miao)(miao)位(wei)于(yu)江蘇(su)(su)省蘇(su)(su)州市人民(min)路。蘇(su)(su)州文廟(miao)(miao)府學(xue)(xue)(xue)是(shi)北(bei)宋名(ming)臣范(fan)仲(zhong)淹(yan)于(yu)景祐(you)二(er)年(nian)(1035年(nian))創建(jian)的(de)(de),迄(qi)今已有980多年(nian)歷史。范(fan)仲(zhong)淹(yan)出(chu)任蘇(su)(su)州知州的(de)(de)次年(nian),在南園遺(yi)址(zhi)上,設學(xue)(xue)(xue)立廟(miao)(miao)。廟(miao)(miao)學(xue)(xue)(xue)合一(yi)(即(ji)文廟(miao)(miao)府學(xue)(xue)(xue)合一(yi))范(fan)仲(zhong)淹(yan)聘請當(dang)時著名(ming)教育(yu)家胡瑗(yuan)為(wei)教授,因為(wei)辦學(xue)(xue)(xue)有方,一(yi)時名(ming)聞(wen)天(tian)下(xia),成(cheng)為(wei)各地(di)州,縣(xian)學(xue)(xue)(xue)效(xiao)仿的(de)(de)楷模。此后(hou)歷經拓建(jian),到明清(qing)兩代府學(xue)(xue)(xue)文廟(miao)(miao)的(de)(de)規模很大,占地(di)面(mian)(mian)積(ji)近二(er)百畝。有江南學(xue)(xue)(xue)府之冠的(de)(de)贊(zan)譽。現有面(mian)(mian)積(ji)僅為(wei)當(dang)時的(de)(de)六分之一(yi),目前保(bao)留(liu)下(xia)來(lai)的(de)(de)重要建(jian)筑有欞星門,戟(ji)門,大成(cheng)殿,崇圣祠,七星池,明倫堂,現為(wei)全(quan)國重點文物保(bao)護單(dan)位(wei)。
蘇州(zhou)文廟府學舊制(zhi)偉岸(an),至(zhi)清代(dai)乾(qian)隆時東臨臥龍街(今市人民路),西倚東大街,南(nan)枕(zhen)新市路,北至(zhi)書(shu)院巷,占(zhan)地面(mian)(mian)積(ji)約(yue)十萬(wan)平方米,其中府學占(zhan)地面(mian)(mian)積(ji)約(yue)6萬(wan)平方米,文廟占(zhan)地面(mian)(mian)積(ji)約(yue)4萬(wan)平方米,就占(zhan)地面(mian)(mian)積(ji)而言,在當(dang)時是僅次于(yu)曲阜孔廟的全國(guo)第二大孔廟。
從宋代(dai)到(dao)清代(dai),蘇(su)州文廟(miao)府學布局(ju)日臻(zhen)完善,形(xing)成(cheng)了以(yi)兩條中(zhong)軸線為(wei)(wei)標志的兩大(da)建(jian)筑群體。左(zuo)路是(shi)以(yi)大(da)成(cheng)殿為(wei)(wei)中(zhong)心的孔廟(miao)建(jian)筑群。南北向(xiang)(xiang),五進院:黌門(men)(men)(men)(men)至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)洗(xi)馬(ma)橋(qiao)(qiao)院庭(ting);洗(xi)馬(ma)橋(qiao)(qiao)至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)欞星門(men)(men)(men)(men)院庭(ting);欞星門(men)(men)(men)(men)至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)戟門(men)(men)(men)(men)院庭(ting);戟門(men)(men)(men)(men)至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)大(da)成(cheng)殿院庭(ting);大(da)成(cheng)殿至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)崇圣祠院庭(ting)。左(zuo)右建(jian)筑配例對(dui)稱,前后建(jian)筑井然森布。右路是(shi)以(yi)明(ming)倫堂為(wei)(wei)中(zhong)心的府學建(jian)筑群,南北向(xiang)(xiang),五進院:泮宮至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)禮門(men)(men)(men)(men)院庭(ting);禮門(men)(men)(men)(men)至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)儀門(men)(men)(men)(men)院庭(ting),儀門(men)(men)(men)(men)至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)明(ming)倫堂院庭(ting);明(ming)倫堂至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)敬一(yi)亭(ting)院庭(ting);敬一(yi)亭(ting)至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)藏經閣(ge)院庭(ting)。左(zuo)右前后亭(ting)臺樓(lou)閣(ge)錯落有序,校舍、池塘、假山(shan)、小溪、花木拱衛其(qi)間,形(xing)成(cheng)了布局(ju)嚴謹、殿宇宏麗、氣勢(shi)磅礴的建(jian)筑特色。
大成(cheng)殿(dian)(dian)是(shi)文(wen)(wen)(wen)廟(miao)(miao)的主(zhu)體建(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu),面寬(kuan)七間,進深六間,約(yue)六百平方米,共有五十(shi)(shi)根楠木(mu)柱支撐,在全(quan)國亦實屬(shu)罕見(jian),可(ke)稱(cheng)為天下奇觀。大成(cheng)殿(dian)(dian)是(shi)建(jian)于南宋紹興(xing)十(shi)(shi)一年(1141年),明朝中期蘇(su)州知府(fu)況鐘重(zhong)(zhong)修,因此大成(cheng)殿(dian)(dian)的梁架(jia)結構,斗(dou)拱,鴟(chi)尾,都有宋代建(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)的風格,大成(cheng)殿(dian)(dian)重(zhong)(zhong)檐多宇,崇(chong)臺(tai)列階,古(gu)樸(pu)莊重(zhong)(zhong),氣勢軒昂,其殿(dian)(dian)堂的建(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)規模(mo)僅次于玄妙(miao)觀三(san)清(qing)殿(dian)(dian),也是(shi)現在保存完(wan)整(zheng)的古(gu)建(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu),為全(quan)國重(zhong)(zhong)點文(wen)(wen)(wen)物保護單位(wei)。蘇(su)州文(wen)(wen)(wen)廟(miao)(miao)的規模(mo)名列東南之(zhi)冠,清(qing)末科舉廢除,文(wen)(wen)(wen)廟(miao)(miao)府(fu)學日漸荒廢。十(shi)(shi)年浩劫更(geng)是(shi)破壞殆(dai)盡。1981年市政府(fu)撥款(kuan)重(zhong)(zhong)修文(wen)(wen)(wen)廟(miao)(miao),同時在原址上建(jian)碑刻博(bo)物館,這(zhe)是(shi)當時全(quan)國首家(jia)碑刻博(bo)物館,文(wen)(wen)(wen)廟(miao)(miao)從此獲得新(xin)生。
大成(cheng)殿于(yu)1982年維修,1985年7月對外開放,為弘(hong)揚優(you)秀傳統文化充分發揮大成(cheng)殿在傳播孔(kong)子文化遺產的功(gong)能,利用(yong)原有的儒學碑刻優(you)勢(shi),1990年經過(guo)精(jing)心籌劃準(zhun)備完(wan)成(cheng)陳列(lie)(lie)孔(kong)子文化石刻,陳列(lie)(lie)共148塊。
懸于(yu)大(da)(da)成殿正門重檐下的“大(da)(da)成殿”門匾。高3米(mi),寬2.2米(mi),雕刻精(jing)美,九龍戲珠用(yong)白云烘托,龍的造型姿態生動,云的雕刻線(xian)條精(jing)細(xi)流(liu)暢(chang),“大(da)(da)成殿”三個金(jin)字為清世宗御筆。藍底金(jin)字,光彩奪目,為我(wo)們的孔子文化石刻陳列平添(tian)了幾分的氣氛。
欞(ling)(ling)星(xing)門(men)(men)(men)建(jian)(jian)于元代(dai)至治二年(1322年)明成(cheng)化年間重修,高8米(mi),寬(kuan)25米(mi),8柱,7間,柱枋(fang)上鐫刻(ke)龍鳳,云鶴(he),花卉(hui)如(ru)意(yi)圖案。欞(ling)(ling)星(xing)門(men)(men)(men)一般(ban)為封建(jian)(jian)帝皇(huang)陵寢建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu),傳說(shuo)是按神話(hua)中(zhong)(zhong)的天(tian)門(men)(men)(men)設(she)計建(jian)(jian)造(zao)的。因為孔(kong)子被尊為孔(kong)圣(sheng),與皇(huang)帝并列,故享受(shou)此殊榮。現存的欞(ling)(ling)星(xing)門(men)(men)(men)在十年浩(hao)劫(jie)中(zhong)(zhong),從原文(wen)廟(miao)(miao)故址南端(duan)(新市路口(kou))原封不動(dong)的拆建(jian)(jian)到目前位置。“欲祭(ji)天(tian)者,先祭(ji)欞(ling)(ling)星(xing)”。欞(ling)(ling)星(xing)又(you)稱文(wen)曲(qu)星(xing)、文(wen)鎮星(xing),過去人(ren)們(men)喜歡稱讀書人(ren)為“文(wen)曲(qu)星(xing)”。孔(kong)廟(miao)(miao)廟(miao)(miao)門(men)(men)(men)以欞(ling)(ling)星(xing)命名(ming),意(yi)味著(zhu)孔(kong)子因天(tian)上的星(xing)宿而降(jiang),祭(ji)孔(kong)也就是祭(ji)天(tian),這也說(shuo)明孔(kong)子在當時(shi)人(ren)們(men)的心中(zhong)(zhong)的地位和(he)聲望。蘇(su)(su)州(zhou)文(wen)廟(miao)(miao)為宋代(dai)首座孔(kong)廟(miao)(miao),府學合(he)為一體的建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu),蘇(su)(su)州(zhou)文(wen)廟(miao)(miao)廟(miao)(miao)門(men)(men)(men)以欞(ling)(ling)星(xing)命名(ming)還有(you)一層意(yi)思,即有(you)國家(jia)棟梁之才輩出之意(yi)。
戟(ji)門(men)是明(ming)代(dai)成化年(nian)間重建(jian),清代(dai)大(da)修。硬(ying)山頂(ding),面寬5間,戟(ji)門(men)東西各(ge)三間稱(cheng)為掖門(men),其中東首第一間于五十年(nian)代(dai)拓寬人民路時拆除。