陽泉(quan)(quan)漂抿(min)(min)曲,亦(yi)稱(cheng)抿(min)(min)曲、小河撈(lao),是山西(xi)陽泉(quan)(quan)的一(yi)種傳統(tong)面(mian)食。陽泉(quan)(quan)抿(min)(min)曲是以綠(lv)豆摻少量精白面(mian)粉(fen)和(he)面(mian),經特制抿(min)(min)曲床壓制而成(cheng)。煮熟后撈(lao)入各種調料(liao)配(pei)制成(cheng)的湯汁中即(ji)可飄起。它長如(ru)掛(gua)面(mian),細如(ru)毛粉(fen),清香利口,鮮(xian)味(wei)撲鼻,富有營養(yang),風(feng)味(wei)別(bie)致,還具有消(xiao)火消(xiao)暑之功效。
明末清(qing)初的(de)學(xue)界泰斗(dou)傅山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)先生(sheng)也曾作《小(xiao)河撈(lao)記》對(dui)漂(piao)(piao)抿曲(qu)大加贊賞。傅山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)先生(sheng)曾發明了養生(sheng)水和面代替(ti)普通的(de)水和面,如:春用(yong)枸(gou)杞、桑葚之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)水,夏為黃耆(qi)、薏仁(ren)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)水,秋用(yong)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)藥、百合之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)水,冬為地黃、當歸之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)水,養生(sheng)則用(yong)米脯之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)水,間或連(lian)翹、雙花、公英、炭白芨等等之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)水。由(you)此(ci)形(xing)成了漂(piao)(piao)抿曲(qu)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)博奧:“貴在絲,精在飄,味在湯,養在面,左右相承,合四時(shi)生(sheng)生(sheng)不息。”漂(piao)(piao)抿曲(qu)以綠豆粉(fen)為主要原料,李時(shi)珍《本草綱目》中(zhong)稱綠豆為“食(shi)中(zhong)要物,菜中(zhong)佳品”,有(you)清(qing)熱解毒、明目降壓之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)功(gong)效,加之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)傅山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)養生(sheng)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)水,豆面漂(piao)(piao)抿曲(qu)便成為了一(yi)種(zhong)養生(sheng)美食(shi)。可惜(xi)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)城人卻沒能發揚光(guang)大。雖然現在許多飯店都有(you)漂(piao)(piao)抿曲(qu)這道小(xiao)食(shi),但沒有(you)做(zuo)成養生(sheng)美食(shi),多少讓人感到遺(yi)憾。
漂(piao)(piao)抿(min)(min)曲(qu)一(yi)般用豆(dou)面制作,用如掛(gua)面一(yi)樣(yang)細(xi)(xi)的(de)細(xi)(xi)抿(min)(min)曲(qu)床(chuang)抿(min)(min)到開(kai)水鍋中煮熟后,把滾開(kai)的(de)煮湯(tang)舀到已經(jing)下好佐料的(de)碗里(li)(li)(li),再把熟抿(min)(min)曲(qu)撈進碗里(li)(li)(li),抿(min)(min)曲(qu)就漂(piao)(piao)在碗里(li)(li)(li)的(de)面湯(tang)上了。所以叫(jiao)“漂(piao)(piao)抿(min)(min)曲(qu)”。漂(piao)(piao)抿(min)(min)曲(qu)的(de)味道(dao)好不好,抿(min)(min)曲(qu)能否(fou)漂(piao)(piao)起來,秘密全在于放醬、醋、香油、鹽、蔥、芫荽等佐料擱多少與先(xian)后次(ci)序(xu)中。