陽泉(quan)漂抿(min)曲,亦稱抿(min)曲、小河撈,是山西陽泉(quan)的(de)一種(zhong)傳統面食。陽泉(quan)抿(min)曲是以綠(lv)豆摻(chan)少量精白面粉和面,經特制抿(min)曲床壓(ya)制而成。煮熟后撈入各種(zhong)調料(liao)配(pei)制成的(de)湯汁中即可(ke)飄起。它(ta)長(chang)如(ru)掛面,細(xi)如(ru)毛粉,清(qing)香(xiang)利口(kou),鮮味撲鼻,富(fu)有營(ying)養,風(feng)味別(bie)致,還具有消火(huo)消暑(shu)之(zhi)功效。
明(ming)末清(qing)初的學界(jie)泰斗傅(fu)山(shan)先(xian)(xian)生也曾作《小河(he)撈記》對漂抿(min)曲(qu)大(da)加贊(zan)賞。傅(fu)山(shan)先(xian)(xian)生曾發明(ming)了(le)(le)養(yang)生水(shui)(shui)(shui)和(he)面(mian)代替普(pu)通的水(shui)(shui)(shui)和(he)面(mian),如:春用枸杞、桑葚(shen)之(zhi)(zhi)水(shui)(shui)(shui),夏為(wei)(wei)黃(huang)耆、薏仁之(zhi)(zhi)水(shui)(shui)(shui),秋用山(shan)藥、百合之(zhi)(zhi)水(shui)(shui)(shui),冬(dong)為(wei)(wei)地黃(huang)、當歸之(zhi)(zhi)水(shui)(shui)(shui),養(yang)生則用米脯之(zhi)(zhi)水(shui)(shui)(shui),間或連(lian)翹、雙花(hua)、公英(ying)、炭(tan)白芨等等之(zhi)(zhi)水(shui)(shui)(shui)。由此形成(cheng)了(le)(le)漂抿(min)曲(qu)之(zhi)(zhi)博奧:“貴在(zai)絲(si),精在(zai)飄,味在(zai)湯,養(yang)在(zai)面(mian),左右(you)相(xiang)承,合四時(shi)生生不息。”漂抿(min)曲(qu)以綠(lv)(lv)豆粉為(wei)(wei)主(zhu)要原料,李時(shi)珍《本草綱目》中(zhong)稱綠(lv)(lv)豆為(wei)(wei)“食中(zhong)要物(wu),菜中(zhong)佳品”,有(you)清(qing)熱解毒、明(ming)目降壓之(zhi)(zhi)功效,加之(zhi)(zhi)傅(fu)山(shan)養(yang)生之(zhi)(zhi)水(shui)(shui)(shui),豆面(mian)漂抿(min)曲(qu)便(bian)成(cheng)為(wei)(wei)了(le)(le)一種養(yang)生美(mei)食。可惜山(shan)城人卻沒能發揚光大(da)。雖(sui)然現在(zai)許多飯店都(dou)有(you)漂抿(min)曲(qu)這道(dao)小食,但沒有(you)做(zuo)成(cheng)養(yang)生美(mei)食,多少(shao)讓人感(gan)到遺憾。
漂抿(min)曲(qu)(qu)一般用豆(dou)面(mian)制作(zuo),用如(ru)掛面(mian)一樣細(xi)的(de)細(xi)抿(min)曲(qu)(qu)床抿(min)到(dao)開水鍋(guo)中煮熟后,把(ba)滾開的(de)煮湯舀(yao)到(dao)已經下好(hao)佐料的(de)碗里(li),再把(ba)熟抿(min)曲(qu)(qu)撈(lao)進碗里(li),抿(min)曲(qu)(qu)就(jiu)漂在(zai)碗里(li)的(de)面(mian)湯上了。所以(yi)叫“漂抿(min)曲(qu)(qu)”。漂抿(min)曲(qu)(qu)的(de)味道(dao)好(hao)不好(hao),抿(min)曲(qu)(qu)能否漂起來,秘密全在(zai)于放醬(jiang)、醋(cu)、香油(you)、鹽、蔥、芫(yan)荽等佐料擱(ge)多少(shao)與先后次序中。