我國最早(zao)的(de)紅(hong)茶(cha)(cha)生(sheng)產(chan)(chan)是從福(fu)建武夷山(shan)(shan)桐木關的(de)小(xiao)種紅(hong)茶(cha)(cha)開(kai)始的(de)。”武夷紅(hong)茶(cha)(cha)業有限公司(si)的(de)胡永飛先生(sheng)說(shuo),產(chan)(chan)于武夷山(shan)(shan)桐木關的(de)紅(hong)茶(cha)(cha)即是“正山(shan)(shan)小(xiao)種”紅(hong)茶(cha)(cha)。所謂“正山(shan)(shan)”是表明了“高山(shan)(shan)地(di)區(qu)所產(chan)(chan)”。
另有外山(shan)(shan)(shan)小種(zhong)(zhong),即政和、坦洋、北嶺、屏南、古田、沙縣及江西鉛山(shan)(shan)(shan)等地(di)所產的(de)仿(fang)照正山(shan)(shan)(shan)品(pin)種(zhong)(zhong)的(de)小種(zhong)(zhong)紅茶(cha)(cha)(cha),質(zhi)地(di)較“正山(shan)(shan)(shan)小種(zhong)(zhong)”差,統稱“外山(shan)(shan)(shan)小種(zhong)(zhong)”或“人工(gong)小種(zhong)(zhong)”。“世界四大紅茶(cha)(cha)(cha)之一的(de)安徽(hui)祁(qi)門紅茶(cha)(cha)(cha)是1876年由福建(jian)紅茶(cha)(cha)(cha)制(zhi)法試制(zhi)成功的(de)。天下紅茶(cha)(cha)(cha)出武(wu)夷確有其事。”胡永飛,這位出身武(wu)夷山(shan)(shan)(shan)制(zhi)茶(cha)(cha)(cha)世家的(de)年輕人言語中盡是自豪(hao)。
取(qu)名(ming)“夷(yi)紅(hong)(hong)”,即取(qu)義(yi)武夷(yi)紅(hong)(hong)茶之(zhi)簡(jian)稱,就(jiu)是(shi)強調(diao)武夷(yi)山(shan)紅(hong)(hong)茶乃世界紅(hong)(hong)茶鼻祖。胡(hu)永飛說:“武夷(yi)紅(hong)(hong)茶以‘正(zheng)(zheng)山(shan)小(xiao)種(zhong)’為(wei)正(zheng)(zheng)宗。”正(zheng)(zheng)山(shan)小(xiao)種(zhong)的(de)(de)產地就(jiu)在(zai)武夷(yi)山(shan)自然保護區的(de)(de)桐木關關坪(ping)、江墩、廟灣一帶(dai)。由于桐木關地處(chu)閩贛交接處(chu)的(de)(de)黃崗山(shan)下,終年云霧繚繞(rao),雨(yu)量充沛(pei),氣候溫潤(run)。特別(bie)春(chun)茶季節,常(chang)遇綿綿雨(yu)天,日照(zhao)極少,故此地采摘的(de)(de)茶鮮(xian)葉萎凋,大(da)部(bu)分要依靠(kao)加溫萎凋,也就(jiu)是(shi)借助燃(ran)料(liao)進行烘(hong)焙。當地松(song)(song)樹(shu)眾(zhong)多,用于燒火的(de)(de)燃(ran)料(liao)都是(shi)松(song)(song)柴(chai)(chai),松(song)(song)柴(chai)(chai)燃(ran)燒后能(neng)積淀(dian)許多松(song)(song)煙味(wei),因此鮮(xian)葉在(zai)萎凋時,吸足了(le)松(song)(song)脂味(wei)。在(zai)烘(hong)干過程中,仍(reng)將發(fa)酵茶葉攤在(zai)竹(zhu)篩中,放在(zai)吊架(jia)上干晾或烘(hong)烤(kao),下面還用松(song)(song)柴(chai)(chai)燃(ran)燒烘(hong)烤(kao),茶葉更進一步(bu)吸收松(song)(song)脂味(wei)。制好的(de)(de)正(zheng)(zheng)山(shan)小(xiao)種(zhong)茶葉,具(ju)有(you)條索肥壯,緊(jin)結圓直,色(se)澤烏光油潤(run)的(de)(de)外(wai)形特征(zheng)。茶湯棕紅(hong)(hong)色(se),茶湯則具(ju)有(you)濃(nong)醇的(de)(de)桂圓湯味(wei)。
武(wu)(wu)(wu)夷(yi)(yi)紅(hong)(hong)茶(cha)業有(you)限(xian)公司(si)期許以“夷(yi)(yi)紅(hong)(hong)”傳承(cheng)并宣揚武(wu)(wu)(wu)夷(yi)(yi)紅(hong)(hong)茶(cha)。這也(ye)是此次(ci)組團參與世博會(hui)福建周的(de)(de)(de)重要原因。“武(wu)(wu)(wu)夷(yi)(yi)人對(dui)茶(cha)葉(xie)品質有(you)自(zi)己的(de)(de)(de)堅持。此次(ci)武(wu)(wu)(wu)夷(yi)(yi)茶(cha)區受災后,武(wu)(wu)(wu)夷(yi)(yi)山市迅(xun)速向(xiang)全市茶(cha)農、茶(cha)企、經銷商(shang)發出《通告》,嚴(yan)禁(jin)采摘(zhai)、加(jia)工(gong)受污染(ran)的(de)(de)(de)新(xin)葉(xie),以及銷售(shou)被洪水浸泡(pao)茶(cha)葉(xie)等行為。我們公司(si)自(zi)然(ran)積極(ji)響應。” 胡(hu)永飛說,300多年前,胡(hu)氏先(xian)民已在桐木關生(sheng)息(xi)。以祖傳工(gong)藝制作世界最早的(de)(de)(de)紅(hong)(hong)茶(cha)——正山小(xiao)種(zhong)。“我們家譜(pu)里還存有(you)一張十七世紀的(de)(de)(de)地圖,典藏著‘夷(yi)(yi)紅(hong)(hong)茶(cha)坊’的(de)(de)(de)歷史。”