云崖勝境
云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)的(de)(de)(de)(de)具體(ti)(ti)位置(zhi)在今甘肅省平(ping)涼市莊(zhuang)浪(lang)縣(xian)韓店(dian)(dian)鄉東南,距離莊(zhuang)浪(lang)縣(xian)城28公(gong)里(li)(li)的(de)(de)(de)(de)關山(shan)(shan)(shan)自然(ran)森林(lin)峽(xia)谷(gu)深處。因寺(si)(si)(si)(si)內(nei)(nei)石(shi)窟(ku)(ku)(ku)眾(zhong)多(duo)(duo),景(jing)色(se)秀(xiu)麗,與平(ping)涼崆峒山(shan)(shan)(shan)、天水麥積山(shan)(shan)(shan)、仙(xian)(xian)人(ren)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)等勝地(di)(di)(di)齊(qi)名(ming)(ming),被列為(wei)(wei)國家(jia)級森林(lin)公(gong)園、國家(jia)級文(wen)物保護(hu)單位。 云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)所在山(shan)(shan)(shan)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng),古稱主(zhu)山(shan)(shan)(shan)。清《嘉(jia)慶重修一(yi)(yi)統(tong)志》記載:“以山(shan)(shan)(shan)勢獨高而(er)名(ming)(ming),其(qi)(qi)中(zhong)(zhong)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)嶺回環(huan),溪流(liu)縈帶(dai)。”以云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)為(wei)(wei)中(zhong)(zhong)心,在方圓不(bu)到5公(gong)里(li)(li)的(de)(de)(de)(de)范圍(wei)內(nei)(nei),有(you)(you)(you)(you)著名(ming)(ming)的(de)(de)(de)(de)八大(da)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)以及店(dian)(dian)灣(wan)、店(dian)(dian)峽(xia)、木匠(jiang)爺崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)石(shi)窟(ku)(ku)(ku)和三(san)教洞(dong),形成一(yi)(yi)條蔚為(wei)(wei)壯觀的(de)(de)(de)(de)石(shi)窟(ku)(ku)(ku)群[2] 。據當(dang)地(di)(di)(di)文(wen)物部門官員介(jie)紹,已(yi)發(fa)現(xian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)73孔中(zhong)(zhong)有(you)(you)(you)(you)石(shi)造(zao)(zao)像(xiang)22尊,塑像(xiang)128尊,還(huan)有(you)(you)(you)(you)大(da)量的(de)(de)(de)(de)壁(bi)(bi)(bi)畫、題(ti)記等。多(duo)(duo)年來(lai)經考古界研究,云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)石(shi)窟(ku)(ku)(ku)始鑿(zao)于(yu)北(bei)魏(wei)后(hou)期,經過數朝(chao)修繕到明朝(chao)時(shi)(shi)(shi)進入鼎盛時(shi)(shi)(shi)期,從(cong)清末開始逐漸歸于(yu)沉(chen)寂,漸漸衰落。 從(cong)山(shan)(shan)(shan)下(xia)沿便道步(bu)行(xing)一(yi)(yi)個(ge)小時(shi)(shi)(shi)左右(you),就來(lai)到云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)主(zhu)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)腳下(xia)。遠遠望去,山(shan)(shan)(shan)呈麥垛(duo)狀,與周圍(wei)群山(shan)(shan)(shan)呼(hu)應連綿。正面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)山(shan)(shan)(shan)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)絕(jue)壁(bi)(bi)(bi)陡立,絕(jue)壁(bi)(bi)(bi)中(zhong)(zhong)央部位分布著三(san)層(ceng)建筑,錯落有(you)(you)(you)(you)致,看上(shang)(shang)(shang)去像(xiang)是嵌在峭壁(bi)(bi)(bi)上(shang)(shang)(shang),懸空(kong)而(er)里(li)(li),令(ling)人(ren)驚嘆(tan)不(bu)已(yi)。莊(zhuang)浪(lang)縣(xian)文(wen)體(ti)(ti)局副局長王(wang)亞彬告訴我們,云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)是一(yi)(yi)座距今1600多(duo)(duo)年歷史(shi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)石(shi)窟(ku)(ku)(ku)寺(si)(si)(si)(si),是當(dang)地(di)(di)(di)一(yi)(yi)處集(ji)石(shi)窟(ku)(ku)(ku)藝術與天然(ran)美景(jing)于(yu)一(yi)(yi)身的(de)(de)(de)(de)風景(jing)區。“整個(ge)景(jing)區東西寬13.75公(gong)里(li)(li),南北(bei)長32.25公(gong)里(li)(li)。帶(dai)狀景(jing)區,里(li)(li)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)有(you)(you)(you)(you)山(shan)(shan)(shan)、有(you)(you)(you)(you)水、有(you)(you)(you)(you)樹,而(er)且有(you)(you)(you)(you)歷經滄桑的(de)(de)(de)(de)石(shi)窟(ku)(ku)(ku)雕塑,這樣的(de)(de)(de)(de)景(jing)點在國內(nei)(nei)也是很少見的(de)(de)(de)(de)。”而(er)最為(wei)(wei)當(dang)地(di)(di)(di)人(ren)所稱頌的(de)(de)(de)(de)人(ren)文(wen)景(jing)觀主(zhu)要是由(you)朱林(lin)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)、大(da)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)、西寺(si)(si)(si)(si)、喬陽(yang)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)、金瓦寺(si)(si)(si)(si)、佛溝寺(si)(si)(si)(si)、三(san)清洞(dong)、羅漢洞(dong)、殿灣(wan)等寺(si)(si)(si)(si)洞(dong)組成的(de)(de)(de)(de)石(shi)窟(ku)(ku)(ku)群。史(shi)載“山(shan)(shan)(shan)勢環(huan)抱(bao),溪水瀠洄,松杉(shan)柏檜,翠竹名(ming)(ming)花,蔚蔚蒼蒼,青蔥掩(yan)映,且多(duo)(duo)仙(xian)(xian)蹤古跡,無地(di)(di)(di)不(bu)爽人(ren)心目(mu)。”是對云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)勝境(jing)的(de)(de)(de)(de)真實寫(xie)照。 據《增修華亭縣(xian)志》記載:宋代(dai)僧人(ren)法印辟白云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)洞(dong),“其(qi)(qi)洞(dong)朝(chao)夕多(duo)(duo)云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun),而(er)云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)多(duo)(duo)白,”四時(shi)(shi)(shi)“洞(dong)中(zhong)(zhong)出云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun),洞(dong)上(shang)(shang)(shang)盤云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun),洞(dong)前(qian)云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)駐,洞(dong)底(di)云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)擎。”因而(er)得名(ming)(ming)。目(mu)前(qian)云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)主(zhu)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)存(cun)大(da)量石(shi)造(zao)(zao)像(xiang)和泥塑像(xiang),從(cong)時(shi)(shi)(shi)間上(shang)(shang)(shang)推(tui)定(ding)以北(bei)魏(wei)、北(bei)周時(shi)(shi)(shi)期為(wei)(wei)多(duo)(duo)。頂(ding)(ding)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)稱為(wei)(wei)玉(yu)皇(huang)頂(ding)(ding),又名(ming)(ming)中(zhong)(zhong)臺(tai)(tai),其(qi)(qi)下(xia)東西南北(bei)四臺(tai)(tai)環(huan)拱。東臺(tai)(tai)后(hou)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)有(you)(you)(you)(you)筆架峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng),西臺(tai)(tai)后(hou)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)有(you)(you)(you)(you)獅子(zi)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng),南臺(tai)(tai)后(hou)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)有(you)(you)(you)(you)升云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng),北(bei)臺(tai)(tai)后(hou)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)有(you)(you)(you)(you)神仙(xian)(xian)桌峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)。眾(zhong)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)相(xiang)擁,綿延且自成一(yi)(yi)體(ti)(ti),巍然(ran)聳立,風景(jing)絕(jue)勝。 云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)風景(jing)迷(mi)人(ren),勝跡很多(duo)(duo),其(qi)(qi)境(jing)內(nei)(nei)異峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)疊(die)起,云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)蒸霧繞,密林(lin)參天,綠茵(yin)遍地(di)(di)(di);曲徑幽幽,流(liu)水淙淙。從(cong)山(shan)(shan)(shan)下(xia)至絕(jue)頂(ding)(ding),層(ceng)巒(luan)疊(die)嶂,萬木蔥蘢。登上(shang)(shang)(shang)眾(zhong)山(shan)(shan)(shan)環(huan)拱的(de)(de)(de)(de)云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)主(zhu)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)——玉(yu)皇(huang)絕(jue)頂(ding)(ding),猶如置(zhi)身大(da)海碧濤,腳下(xia)云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)開霧合,怪(guai)石(shi)崢(zheng)嶸,奇(qi)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)兀立。云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)石(shi)窟(ku)(ku)(ku)、白云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)洞(dong)等勝景(jing)奇(qi)觀就鑲嵌在此峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)正面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)裸露的(de)(de)(de)(de)懸崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)峭壁(bi)(bi)(bi)之(zhi)上(shang)(shang)(shang)。
美麗傳說
來(lai)云(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)游(you)覽的(de)人(ren),都喜歡(huan)登頂觀景。盛夏時登上玉皇頂極目遠(yuan)眺,茫茫林(lin)(lin)海(hai)之(zhi)(zhi)中(zhong),秀(xiu)嶺(ling)奇峰(feng)(feng),鱗次櫛比,猶如(ru)(ru)八百羅漢列(lie)(lie)坐誦經。近觀云(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya),東西(xi)南北(bei)四臺(tai)(tai)環拱,似(si)眾(zhong)星(xing)捧月。對(dui)面(mian)南臺(tai)(tai),如(ru)(ru)經書開卷,又(you)如(ru)(ru)歸鶴(he)展翅,故(gu)有(you)(you)“歸鶴(he)來(lai)戲”之(zhi)(zhi)傳(chuan)說。山(shan)后金牛(niu)峰(feng)(feng)、雪山(shan)峰(feng)(feng)、雷聲峰(feng)(feng)數(shu)峰(feng)(feng)兀(wu)立(li)。山(shan)前(qian)(qian)長嶺(ling)上有(you)(you)兩條(tiao)石縫(feng),傳(chuan)說是(shi)一喇(la)嘛(ma)施用(yong)法(fa)術,從(cong)金牛(niu)峰(feng)(feng)盜得金牛(niu)后沒收住,又(you)從(cong)前(qian)(qian)山(shan)鉆了(le)進去,這條(tiao)石縫(feng)就是(shi)被金牛(niu)擠破的(de),民間(jian)稱(cheng)(cheng)“金牛(niu)鼻子(zi)”。山(shan)后的(de)北(bei)臺(tai)(tai),由筆架山(shan)、棋盤峰(feng)(feng)、神仙桌、臥駝(tuo)峰(feng)(feng)、金瓦寺(si)(si)(si)山(shan)等(deng)五(wu)峰(feng)(feng)匯集(ji)而成(cheng),與前(qian)(qian)面(mian)的(de)云(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)峰(feng)(feng)合成(cheng)一幅“五(wu)老觀太極”的(de)畫圖,意趣盎然。東臺(tai)(tai)在(zai)云(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)主峰(feng)(feng)左側,又(you)名(ming)觀音山(shan),巍(wei)峨高(gao)聳(song),赤壁千仞,靠近云(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)的(de)一壁叫(jiao)(jiao)八仙崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya),崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)上有(you)(you)觀音洞、湘子(zi)洞等(deng)五(wu)窟(ku),摩崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)造(zao)像(xiang)隱約可見。東臺(tai)(tai)后有(you)(you)天女(nv)峰(feng)(feng),山(shan)勢(shi)(shi)險絕(jue)(jue),如(ru)(ru)仙女(nv)凌空而降(jiang)。東臺(tai)(tai)對(dui)面(mian)絕(jue)(jue)壁聳(song)立(li),名(ming)獅子(zi)嶺(ling),其勢(shi)(shi)如(ru)(ru)獅子(zi)蹲臥,背(bei)上小(xiao)峰(feng)(feng)突起,宛若軍(jun)士列(lie)(lie)隊,故(gu)又(you)稱(cheng)(cheng)行軍(jun)峰(feng)(feng)。云(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)主峰(feng)(feng)之(zhi)(zhi)右(you)為(wei)西(xi)臺(tai)(tai),另稱(cheng)(cheng)羅漢崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya),崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)面(mian)鷹洞壘壘如(ru)(ru)蜂(feng)窩(wo),俗名(ming)“蜂(feng)兒坯子(zi)”。山(shan)頂怪石林(lin)(lin)立(li),錯落(luo)有(you)(you)致。東西(xi)二(er)臺(tai)(tai)呼(hu)應對(dui)稱(cheng)(cheng),似(si)兩個(ge)翅膀,插在(zai)云(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)主峰(feng)(feng)的(de)軀體上。 沿云(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)河(he)前(qian)(qian)行,依次有(you)(you)大寺(si)(si)(si)溝、鹽(yan)場子(zi)、紅崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)等(deng)勝跡。大寺(si)(si)(si)溝有(you)(you)懸崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)峭(qiao)壁、茂林(lin)(lin)深草,中(zhong)間(jian)小(xiao)溪奔涌,清(qing)澈見底(di),大寺(si)(si)(si)、西(xi)寺(si)(si)(si)、殿灣(wan)等(deng)石窟(ku)分布在(zai)這條(tiao)溝里。而峭(qiao)壁間(jian)古代棧道的(de)印記依然清(qing)晰。莊浪(lang)縣旅游(you)局(ju)官(guan)員介紹,云(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)及周邊各個(ge)寺(si)(si)(si)院遙(yao)相(xiang)呼(hu)應,在(zai)整個(ge)景區(qu)內到處都有(you)(you)古人(ren)生活的(de)影子(zi)。其中(zhong)最(zui)為(wei)壯觀的(de),是(shi)那些千尺(chi)絕(jue)(jue)壁,有(you)(you)的(de)形如(ru)(ru)睡獅,有(you)(you)的(de)高(gao)似(si)層樓,有(you)(you)的(de)懸若閣檐,有(you)(you)的(de)勢(shi)(shi)如(ru)(ru)飛瀑(pu)。在(zai)眾(zhong)多峭(qiao)壁間(jian),最(zui)有(you)(you)傳(chuan)奇色彩的(de)一座叫(jiao)(jiao)“舍身堡(bao)”。莊浪(lang)縣文(wen)體局(ju)副(fu)局(ju)長王亞彬告訴我們,相(xiang)傳(chuan)一位篤(du)信(xin)佛(fo)教的(de)木工,修(xiu)建好云(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)群之(zhi)(zhi)后,不慎從(cong)此(ci)險絕(jue)(jue)處墜下懸崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya),粉(fen)身碎骨(gu)。時人(ren)認為(wei)是(shi)脫化成(cheng)佛(fo)了(le),為(wei)了(le)紀(ji)念,稱(cheng)(cheng)此(ci)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)為(wei)“舍身崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)”,也稱(cheng)(cheng)“木匠(jiang)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)”,并為(wei)其鑿洞塑像(xiang),造(zao)像(xiang)至今(jin)還保存于崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)洞中(zhong)。
紅崖寺與竹林寺
距離云崖寺(si)深(shen)處不足一(yi)(yi)公(gong)里處,有(you)一(yi)(yi)片30多畝(mu)空曠寬敞的草灘,為(wei)(wei)鹽(yan)場子,曾經是絲綢古道上(shang)車馬輻輳、駝隊云集的驛站,其平(ping)平(ping)展(zhan)展(zhan)的地(di)勢和荒(huang)涼蕭(xiao)瑟的景色,記載著(zhu)當(dang)年的喧囂(xiao)和繁(fan)華。鹽(yan)場子對面有(you)一(yi)(yi)峽谷,遠遠望去,一(yi)(yi)道石(shi)崖橫亙面前,石(shi)崖上(shang)面大小窟龕(kan)呈一(yi)(yi)字形(xing)排列(lie),這(zhe)就是紅崖寺(si)。紅崖寺(si)石(shi)窟,較馳名(ming)的有(you)兩洞(dong)(dong),一(yi)(yi)為(wei)(wei)千佛(fo)洞(dong)(dong)、一(yi)(yi)為(wei)(wei)文王百子洞(dong)(dong)。從(cong)云崖寺(si)順流而下,依次可見秋(qiu)千架、竹林寺(si)。
秋(qiu)千(qian)架由兩兩柱突兀而(er)起(qi)的(de)(de)巨大(da)石(shi)筍并立(li)而(er)成,狀如炳靈姊妹峰,可望而(er)不可即(ji)。相傳王母娘娘曾(ceng)慕名來到這塊風景秀麗的(de)(de)地(di)方游(you)(you)玩,支了秋(qiu)千(qian)架,蕩起(qi)秋(qiu)千(qian),十分盡興。竹林寺面(mian)對的(de)(de)華莊公路(lu),據考證(zheng)這里(li)曾(ceng)立(li)過(guo)集(ji)市,作過(guo)鎮公所,更多的(de)(de)用場是過(guo)往客店。其丹崖(ya)峭壁上(shang)也刻鑿著石(shi)窟,星(xing)星(xing)點點。 1922年,國民黨元老于(yu)右任先(xian)生從崇信取道天水,投宿于(yu)此,在一回民兒童的(de)(de)導引下(xia)攀崖(ya)登游(you)(you),臨行賦詩:“投宿竹(朱(zhu))林寺,摩崖(ya)時隱(yin)見,昔日梵(fan)王宮,今作回回店……。”
如(ru)今的(de)(de)竹林寺(si),最(zui)引人注意的(de)(de)是一座規模宏大的(de)(de)水(shui)(shui)(shui)庫,水(shui)(shui)(shui)域面積(ji)43.4平方公里,庫容577萬立方米,游人到此,猶如(ru)置身(shen)天山(shan)的(de)(de)天池邊。竹林寺(si)水(shui)(shui)(shui)庫被(bei)命名(ming)為國家水(shui)(shui)(shui)利風景區。 云崖寺(si)不僅有(you)珍貴(gui)的(de)(de)人文資源,還(huan)有(you)著豐富的(de)(de)自然資源,各種野生植(zhi)物生長茂盛,白樺、松柏、山(shan)楊(yang)、山(shan)柳、椴、箭竹等10多種主體林木聯綴成22萬余(yu)畝林海。紛繁(fan)復雜的(de)(de)森林植(zhi)被(bei)中(zhong),蘊藏了黨參、杜仲、豬苓(ling)、丹皮等300多種藥材資源,也為金錢豹、梅花鹿(lu)、麝(she)獐、錦(jin)雞等珍禽(qin)異(yi)獸提(ti)供了繁(fan)衍生息的(de)(de)風水(shui)(shui)(shui)寶地。
交通信息
(1)自天水(shui)汽車總站、平涼(liang)汽車西站乘大巴到莊(zhuang)浪(lang)縣(xian)(xian)城,然后在莊(zhuang)浪(lang)汽車站乘“水(shui)洛-韓店-云崖寺”的縣(xian)(xian)域公交車(6元/人)直(zhi)達(da)景區;
(2)自華(hua)(hua)亭縣(xian)城(cheng)乘華(hua)(hua)亭到莊浪的中巴(ba),中途在(zai)景區(qu)北門入(ru)口下(xia)車即可(最近關山隧(sui)道正(zheng)在(zai)施工,交通(tong)暫停);
(3)景(jing)區(qu)北門(men)沒(mei)有觀(guan)光(guang)車,只能從北門(men)步行2.2km翻過(guo)大壩到(dao)聚(ju)仙(xian)橋(qiao),自聚(ju)仙(xian)橋(qiao)有景(jing)區(qu)內的觀(guan)光(guang)車可到(dao)云崖寺(si)、大寺(si)、鹽(yan)場子(zi)(鹽(yan)場子(zi)可從景(jing)區(qu)東(dong)門(men)向南到(dao)達),觀(guan)光(guang)車費用(yong):聚(ju)仙(xian)橋(qiao)(3元)云崖寺(si)(10元)大寺(si)、云崖寺(si)(10元)鹽(yan)場子(zi)。