縫紉機(ji)線跡的種類(lei)
縫紉機線跡(ji)(ji)的(de)分(fen)類(lei)形(xing)式很(hen)多,1979年,國際標準(zhun)化組織對(dui)線跡(ji)(ji)的(de)種類(lei),編號進(jin)行了(le)規定,將標準(zhun)線跡(ji)(ji)分(fen)為6大類(lei):
100類-鏈式線跡
200類(lei)-仿手工(gong)線跡
300類-瑣式線跡
400類-多線(xian)鏈式線(xian)跡
500類-包縫(feng)線跡
600類-覆蓋線跡
100類中最常(chang)用的是101和103兩種。101和103都是是單線(xian)鏈式線(xian)跡,103常(chang)用于暗(an)線(xian)挑縫。
300中(zhong)最(zui)常用的(de)是301,304,308和320。其中(zhong)301稱單針(zhen)平縫線(xian)跡,又(you)是最(zui)最(zui)常用的(de)線(xian)跡,304兩點(dian)人字(zi)線(xian)跡,308三點(dian)人字(zi)線(xian)跡,比301更有彈性。
400類中最常用的是401,402,407。401又叫直線型雙線鏈式線跡,又一條針線一條鉤線組成。在底層縫料的底面利用相互交錯和相互交圈形成鎖鏈狀線跡。402又稱雙針網底線跡,又兩條針線和一條鉤線組成,通常用于針織褲子的側縫和手套背面的裝飾線條。407表面如三條平行的301線跡,底層則為網狀結構,主要用于車縫橡筋到內褲內衣上。
500類中最常用的(de)(de)有504,505,512,514。504和(he)505都是三線包(bao)縫線跡。504廣泛用于制衣業的(de)(de)鎖邊(bian)工序(xu),505主要針(zhen)對中厚料。512和(he)514是四線包(bao)縫又稱(cheng)安全線跡。都由兩(liang)(liang)條針(zhen)線兩(liang)(liang)條鉤線組成,只是鉤線與針(zhen)線的(de)(de)交圈方(fang)式上兩(liang)(liang)陣稍有不同。
600類(lei)中(zhong)最常(chang)用(yong)(yong)的是(shi)602,605,607三種。602又稱(cheng)二針(zhen)網面線(xian)(xian)跡(ji),主(zhu)要用(yong)(yong)于(yu)針(zhen)織(zhi)捏儀,運動服裝(zhuang)(zhuang)等。605又稱(cheng)三針(zhen)網面線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)。主(zhu)要用(yong)(yong)語衣服上縫橡津(jin),切(qie)滾(gun)條(tiao)和(he)拼接(jie)縫的縫合等工序。607是(shi)四針(zhen)網面線(xian)(xian)跡(ji),有四條(tiao)針(zhen)線(xian)(xian)知(zhi)識比605加了一條(tiao)陣線(xian)(xian)其他類(lei)似。綜上所述(shu),600類(lei)主(zhu)要用(yong)(yong)于(yu)針(zhen)織(zhi)服裝(zhuang)(zhuang)的滾(gun)邊,滾(gun)領,折邊,拼接(jie)縫和(he)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)飾花邊等工序,其實也就是(shi)繃縫啦。)
bartack,(bar tack,bar-tack)套(tao)結,倒(dao)回(hui)針,加(jia)固縫,打棗(zao)
flat-lock stitch,(flat lock stitch),covering stitch覆(fu)蓋線(xian)跡(ji)(ji),繃縫線(xian)跡(ji)(ji)
interlock stitch聯鎖(suo)線跡(ji),多線鏈式線跡(ji)
single thread chain stitch單線鏈(lian)式線跡(ji),單線鏈(lian)狀(zhuang)線,單線鎖鏈(lian)底針步,(101線跡(ji)),(用(yong)于假縫,如(ru)袋口)
103線(xian)跡-blind stitch暗縫,暗繰針縫,挑腳,
301線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)-lock stitch,plain stitch鎖式線(xian)(xian)跡(ji),平(ping)縫線(xian)(xian)跡(ji),普(pu)通線(xian)(xian)跡(ji),平(ping)車針步,(最常見的線(xian)(xian)跡(ji))
304線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji)(ji)-zigzag lock stitch曲折鎖(suo)式(shi)(shi)線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji)(ji),鋸齒形鎖(suo)式(shi)(shi)線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji)(ji),Z形鎖(suo)式(shi)(shi)線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji)(ji),之字(zi)形平(ping)車(che)針步(bu)(bu),人字(zi)形平(ping)車(che)針步(bu)(bu),(底(di)面(mian)線(xian)(xian)都是鎖(suo)式(shi)(shi)線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji)(ji))
401線跡(ji)-single needle chain stitch單(dan)針鏈(lian)式線跡(ji),單(dan)針鏈(lian)狀(zhuang)針步,單(dan)針鎖(suo)鏈(lian)底針步
404線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)-zigzag chain stitch曲折鏈式線(xian)(xian)跡(ji),鋸齒形(xing)鏈式線(xian)(xian)跡(ji),Z形(xing)鏈式線(xian)(xian)跡(ji),人字鎖鏈底(di)針步,(面(mian)線(xian)(xian)是鎖式線(xian)(xian)跡(ji),底(di)線(xian)(xian)是鏈式線(xian)(xian)跡(ji))
406線跡(ji)(ji)-2 needles bottom cover stitch雙針底部覆蓋線跡(ji)(ji),雙針網底針步,(用(yong)于腰(yao)帶袢,針織服(fu)裝(zhuang)的袖口(kou)、下擺等(deng))
407線(xian)跡-3 needles bottom cover stitch三針(zhen)底(di)部(bu)繃縫線(xian)跡,三針(zhen)網(wang)底(di)針(zhen)步
408線(xian)跡(ji)-2 needles chain stitch with cover thread雙針鏈(lian)(lian)式表面覆蓋線(xian)跡(ji),雙針網面鎖鏈(lian)(lian)底針步
503線(xian)跡-2 threads overedge stitch雙(shuang)(shuang)線(xian)拷邊(bian),雙(shuang)(shuang)線(xian)包邊(bian),雙(shuang)(shuang)線(xian)钑骨
504線(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)跡(ji)-overlock stitch,coveredge stitch,3 threads overedge stitch包縫線(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)跡(ji),拷(kao)(kao)(kao)邊(bian)(bian)線(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)跡(ji),鎖邊(bian)(bian)線(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)跡(ji),三線(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)拷(kao)(kao)(kao)邊(bian)(bian),三線(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)包邊(bian)(bian),三線(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)钑骨,(最常見的拷(kao)(kao)(kao)邊(bian)(bian)線(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)跡(ji))
512線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)-mock safety stitch假線(xian)(xian)跡(ji),模擬線(xian)(xian)跡(ji),(用于彈性面料接縫)
514線跡-2 needles 4 threads overedge stitch雙針(zhen)四(si)線拷邊,雙針(zhen)四(si)線包(bao)邊,雙針(zhen)四(si)線钑骨,(用于彈性面料接(jie)縫)
515線(xian)跡(401+503)-4 threads safety stitch四(si)線(xian)安全線(xian)跡,四(si)線(xian)安全針步
516線(xian)跡(ji)(401+504)-safety stitch,5 threads safety stitch五線(xian)拷邊(bian),五線(xian)鎖邊(bian),安全線(xian)跡(ji),五線(xian)包邊(bian)安全線(xian)跡(ji),五線(xian)钑骨
602線(xian)跡(ji)-2 needles 4 threads cover stitch雙(shuang)針四線(xian)繃縫線(xian)跡(ji)
605線(xian)跡-3 needles 5 threads cover stitch三針五(wu)線(xian)繃(beng)縫(feng)線(xian)跡
606線(xian)跡-4 needles 9 threads cover stitch,(flatlock stitch)四針九(jiu)線(xian)平(ping)式繃(beng)縫線(xian)跡
607線跡-4 needles 6 threads cover stitch,(flatseamer/flatlock stitch)四針六線平式(shi)繃縫(feng)線跡,pearl stitch珠式(shi)線跡,
(Used in knitting,for fancy borders and edges,one which worked back on itself allowing a rippled effect to be made.Because of this,he received the nickname of"perley wilson"。)
線跡服飾工藝知識
平縫線跡----PLAIN STITCH,FLAT STITCH
疏縫線跡----BASTING STITCH,TACKING STITC
繃縫線(xian)跡(ji)----COVERING STITCH,FLAT-LOCK STITCH
絎縫線跡----QUILTED STITCH
嵌縫(feng)線跡----CORD STITCH
面縫線(xian)跡----TOP STITCH,OVER STITCH
暗縫線跡----INVISIBLE STITCH,BLIND STITCH
繰縫線跡----SLIP STITCH
折(zhe)縫線跡----FELL STITCH
倒縫線(xian)跡----REVERSIBLE STITCH,BACKWARD STITCH
包縫線跡----OVERLOCK STITCH,OVERCASTING STITCH,OVEREDGE
鎖式線跡----LOCK STITCH,LOCKSTITCH
鏈(lian)式線跡----CHAIN STITCH
聯式線跡----CHAINLOCK STITCH
人(ren)字(zi)線跡(ji)----HERRINGBONE STITCH
羽狀線跡----FEATHER STITCH
珠式線(xian)跡----PEARL STITCH
Z形線跡(ji)----CATCH STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
角形(xing)線跡----ANGLE STITCH
弓形線跡----ARCHED STITCH
鋸(ju)齒形(xing)狀線(xian)跡----PICOT STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
貝殼形狀線跡----SHELL STITCH
網眼形狀(zhuang)線跡(ji)----BASKET STITCH
蜂窩形狀線跡(ji)----HONEYCOMB STITCH
直形線跡----STRAIGHT STITCH
雙(shuang)十字形狀線跡---DOUBLE STITCH
交叉(cha)線(xian)跡,十字線(xian)跡---CROSS STITCH
圓(yuan)形線跡----ROUND STITCH
廓(kuo)形(xing)線跡----OUTLINE STITCH
曲折形(xing)線(xian)跡---ZIGZAG SITITCH
變形(xing)線跡---CHANGE STITCH
鉤編線跡(ji)---CROCHET STITCH
織補線跡(ji)---DARNING STITCH
刺繡線(xian)跡---EMBROIDERY STITCH,CREWEL STITCH
裝飾線跡---ORNAMENTAL STITCH,DECORATIVE STITCH
花式線(xian)跡---FANCY STITCH
點劃(hua)線跡---DOT DASH STITCH
對稱線跡---COUNTER STITCH
比(bi)翼線跡---FLY STITCH
特殊線跡---SPECIAL STITCH
復合(he)線跡---COMBINATION STITCH,SPLIT STITCH
復式線跡---DOUBLE ACTION STITCH
雙針(zhen)線跡---TWICE STITCH
雙重(zhong)線跡---TWICE STITCH
三重線(xian)跡---TRIPLE STITCH
縫式線(xian)跡---SEAM STITCH
加固線跡---FASTENING STITCH,TACKING STITCH
打結(jie)線跡---KNOTTING STITCH
扎縛(fu)線跡---PADDING STITCH
袖(xiu)褶線跡(ji)---SHIRRING STITCH
伸縮線跡---STRETCH STITCH,ELASIC STITCH
滾邊線跡(ji)---BINDING STITCH
卷邊線跡---HEMMING STITCH
暗卷縫線(xian)跡(ji)---BLINDING HEMMING STITCH
拼合(he)線跡---ABUTTING STITCH
間斷(duan)線跡---BROKEN STITCH
跳針線跡---SKIPPING STITCH
安全線跡---SAFETY STITCH
手針縫法
繚(liao)針(zhen)法----SLIP STITCH
拱針(zhen)法----PRICK STITCH
明繰針法(fa)---FELL STITCH
暗繰(qiao)針法---BLING HEMMING STITCH
環針法----CATCH STITCH
疊(die)針法----FASTENING STITCH
扎(zha)針法----PAD STITCH
扳針法----DIAGONAL BASTING
絎針(zhen)法----QUILTING STITCH
鎖針法(fa)----LOCK STITCH
倒針法----BARTACK STITCH,BACK STITCH
三角(jiao)針法---HERRINGBONE STITCH
楊樹(shu)花針法--FEATHER STITCH
花(hua)針法----ZIGZAG STITCH
跳針法----SKIPPING STITCH
縫線跡(ji)----PLAIN STITCH,FLAT STITCH
疏(shu)縫線跡----BASTING STITCH,TACKING STITCH
繃縫線(xian)跡----COVERING STITCH,FLAT-LOCK STITCH
絎縫(feng)線跡----QUILTED STITCH
嵌縫(feng)線(xian)跡----CORD STITCH
面縫(feng)線(xian)跡----TOP STITCH,OVER STITCH
暗縫(feng)線(xian)跡----INVISIBLE STITCH,BLIND STITCH
繰縫線跡----SLIP STITCH
折(zhe)縫(feng)線(xian)跡----FELL STITCH
倒縫線跡(ji)----REVERSIBLE STITCH,BACKWARD STITCH
包縫(feng)線跡----OVERLOCK STITCH,OVERCASTING STITCH,OVEREDGE
鎖式線跡----LOCK STITCH,LOCKSTITCH
鏈式線跡----CHAIN STITCH
聯式線跡(ji)----CHAINLOCK STITCH
人(ren)字(zi)線(xian)跡----HERRINGBONE STITCH
羽狀線跡----FEATHER STITCH
珠式線跡----PEARL STITCH
Z形線(xian)跡----CATCH STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
角形線(xian)跡(ji)----ANGLE STITCH
弓形線跡----ARCHED STITCH
鋸齒形狀線跡----PICOT STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
貝殼形狀線(xian)跡----SHELL STITCH
網眼形(xing)狀線跡----BASKET STITCH
蜂窩形(xing)狀線跡----HONEYCOMB STITCH
直形線跡----STRAIGHT STITCH
雙十字形狀線跡---DOUBLE STITCH
交(jiao)叉線(xian)跡,十字線(xian)跡---CROSS STITCH
圓形線跡----ROUND STITCH
廓形線跡----OUTLINE STITCH
曲折(zhe)形線跡---ZIGZAG SITITCH
變形線跡---CHANGE STITCH
鉤編線跡(ji)---CROCHET STITCH
織(zhi)補線跡---DARNING STITCH
刺(ci)繡線(xian)跡(ji)---EMBROIDERY STITCH,CREWEL STITCH
裝飾線(xian)跡---ORNAMENTAL STITCH,DECORATIVE STITCH
花式線(xian)跡(ji)---FANCY STITCH
點(dian)劃線(xian)跡(ji)---DOT DASH STITCH
對稱線跡---COUNTER STITCH
比翼線跡---FLY STITCH
特殊線跡---SPECIAL STITCH
復合線跡---COMBINATION STITCH,SPLIT STITCH
復式(shi)線跡---DOUBLE ACTION STITCH
雙針線跡---TWICE STITCH
雙重線跡---TWICE STITCH
三重線跡---TRIPLE STITCH
縫式線跡---SEAM STITCH
加固線跡---FASTENING STITCH,TACKING STITCH
打結線跡---KNOTTING STITCH
扎縛(fu)線跡---PADDING STITCH
袖褶線跡(ji)---SHIRRING STITCH
伸縮線跡(ji)---STRETCH STITCH,ELASIC STITCH
滾邊(bian)線跡---BINDING STITCH
卷邊線跡---HEMMING STITCH
暗卷縫線跡(ji)---BLINDING HEMMING STITCH
拼合線(xian)跡---ABUTTING STITCH
間斷線跡---BROKEN STITCH
跳針線跡---SKIPPING STITCH
安全線跡---SAFETY STITCH
手針縫法
繚針法----SLIP STITCH
拱針法----PRICK STITCH
明繰(qiao)針法(fa)---FELL STITCH
暗(an)繰針法---BLING HEMMING STITCH
環針法----CATCH STITCH
疊針法----FASTENING STITCH
扎針法----PAD STITCH
扳針(zhen)法----DIAGONAL BASTING
絎針法----QUILTING STITCH
鎖(suo)針法----LOCK STITCH
倒針法----BARTACK STITCH,BACK STITCH
三(san)角針法---HERRINGBONE STITCH
楊樹花(hua)針法--FEATHER STITCH
花針法----ZIGZAG STITCH
跳針法(fa)----SKIPPING STITCH
縫型,縫式(shi)---SEAM TYPE,SEAM PATTERN
結構縫-----COMPOSITE SEAM
普通縫-----NORMAL SEAM
裝飾縫-----ORNAMENTAL SEAM,DECORATIVE SEAM
連續縫(feng)-----CONTINUOUS SEAM
間斷(duan)縫-----BROKEN SEAM
長(chang)縫------LONG SEAM
短縫------SHORT SEAM
內縫------INSEAM
外縫(feng)---------OUTSEAM
原縫------THICK SEAM
中縫------CENTRE SEAM
側縫------SIDE SEAM
斜線縫-----BIAS SEAM
繚縫------SLANTING SEAM
弧線縫-----CURVED SEAM
轉角(jiao)縫(feng)-----CORNER SEAM
平縫--------------FLAT SEAM
平接(jie)縫(feng)-----SLAT FELL SEAM,BUTTED SEA M
搭接(jie)縫(feng)-----LAPPING SEAM
雙(shuang)搭接(jie)縫----DOUBLE LAPPED SEAM
接合縫-----JOINING SEAM
拼合縫-----ABUTTED SEAM
雙線(xian)縫-----TWIN SEAM
鑲色(se)縫-----CONTRAST COLOR SEAM
嵌花(hua)縫(feng)-----APPLIANCE SEAM'
繃縫,覆蓋縫--FLAT LOCK SEAM,COVERED SEAM
來去縫(feng)-----FRENCH SEAM,BAG SEAM
萊克拉(la)縫----LYCRA SEAM
伸縮縫(feng)-----STRETCH SEAM,ELASTIC SEAM
漏(lou)落(luo)縫-----SELF BOUND SEAM
坐倒縫-----LAPPING SEAM
開(kai)縫------OPENING SEAM
分緝縫-----DOUBLE TOPSTITCHED SEAM
壓(ya)緝縫-----TOPSTITCHED LAP SEAM
坐(zuo)緝縫-----TUCKED SEAM
成形縫-----FINISHING SEAM,FASHION SEAM
明縫,面縫--OUTSEAM,TOPSTICH SEAM
暗(an)縫---------BLIND SEAM,INVISIBLE SEAM
暗(an)邊縫-----HIND EDGE SEAM
包縫------OVERSEAM,CLOSED SEAM,OVEREDGE SEAM,OVERCAST SEAM,OVERLOCK SEAM
明包(bao)縫-----FLAT FELL SEAM
暗包縫-----WELT SEAM
鎖式(shi)線縫----LOCKSTITCH SEAM
連鎖縫-----INTERLOCK SEAM
鏈式線縫----CHAINSTITCH SEAM
環(huan)縫------CATCH STITCH SEAM
嵌縫------CORDING SEAM
絎縫------QUILTING SEAM
格(ge)子縫-----LATTICE SEAM
交(jiao)叉縫(feng)-----CROSS SEAM
泡狀縫(feng)-----BEADED SEAM,
鋸齒縫-----GERMAN SEAM,ZIGZAG SEAM
曲(qu)折(zhe)縫-----ZIGZAG SEAM
蝶形縫-----BUTTERFLY SEAM
辮形縫(feng)-----PLAITED SEAM
凸(tu)形縫(feng)-----RAISED SEAM
帶形(xing)縫-----STRAP SEAM
懸(xuan)縫(feng)------HANGING SEAM
保險縫-----FLAT FELL SEAM
加(jia)固縫-----TACKING SEAM,FASTENING SEAM
終止縫-----FINAL SEAM
領縫(feng)------COLLAR SEAM NECK SEAM
肩縫------SHOULDER SEAM
背(bei)縫(feng)------BACK SEAM
背嵌(qian)縫-----CENTRE BACK SEAM
袖下縫-----UNDERARM SEAM
袖籠縫(feng)-----ARMHOLE SEAM
門襟縫-----FRONT FLY SEAM,PLACKET SEA M
門襟止口縫---FORNT EDGE SEAM
擺縫-----SIDE SEAM
衩縫------VENT SEAM
腰縫------WAISTLINE SEAM
腰帶縫-----WAISTBAND SEAM
襠縫------CROTCH SEAM
前襠縫-----FRONT RISE SEAM
后襠縫-----BACK RISE SEAM,SEAT SEAM
下襠縫(feng)-----INSIDE SEAM,INSEAM
折疊(die)縫-----FOLDING SEAM
褶裥縫-----BUCKED SEAM,PLKEAT SEAM
對折縫-----FELLED SEAM
卷(juan)邊縫-----HEMMING SEAM
貼邊縫-----WELT SEAM
滾邊縫-----BOUND SEAM
織補縫-----DARNING SEAM
貼帶縫-----TAPED SEAM