縫紉機(ji)線跡的種類(lei)
縫紉機線(xian)跡的(de)分類(lei)形式很(hen)多,1979年,國際標準化組(zu)織對線(xian)跡的(de)種類(lei),編號進行了規定(ding),將標準線(xian)跡分為6大類(lei):
100類-鏈式線跡
200類-仿(fang)手工線(xian)跡(ji)
300類-瑣(suo)式(shi)線(xian)跡
400類-多線鏈式線跡
500類-包縫線(xian)跡
600類-覆蓋線跡
100類中最(zui)常用的是101和(he)103兩種。101和(he)103都是是單線鏈(lian)式線跡(ji),103常用于暗(an)線挑縫。
300中最常(chang)用(yong)的(de)是(shi)301,304,308和320。其(qi)中301稱(cheng)單針平縫(feng)線跡(ji),又是(shi)最最常(chang)用(yong)的(de)線跡(ji),304兩點人(ren)字線跡(ji),308三點人(ren)字線跡(ji),比(bi)301更有彈性。
400類中最常用的是401,402,407。401又叫直線型雙線鏈式線跡,又一條針線一條鉤線組成。在底層縫料的底面利用相互交錯和相互交圈形成鎖鏈狀線跡。402又稱雙針網底線跡,又兩條針線和一條鉤線組成,通常用于針織褲子的側縫和手套背面的裝飾線條。407表面如三條平行的301線跡,底層則為網狀結構,主要用于車縫橡筋到內褲內衣上。
500類中最(zui)常用的有504,505,512,514。504和505都是(shi)(shi)三線(xian)(xian)包(bao)(bao)縫線(xian)(xian)跡。504廣泛用于制衣業(ye)的鎖邊工序(xu),505主要針對中厚料。512和514是(shi)(shi)四線(xian)(xian)包(bao)(bao)縫又稱安全(quan)線(xian)(xian)跡。都由兩條針線(xian)(xian)兩條鉤線(xian)(xian)組成,只是(shi)(shi)鉤線(xian)(xian)與針線(xian)(xian)的交(jiao)圈(quan)方式上(shang)兩陣稍(shao)有不同。
600類(lei)中(zhong)最常(chang)用的(de)(de)是602,605,607三種。602又(you)稱(cheng)二針(zhen)(zhen)網面線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji),主要(yao)用于針(zhen)(zhen)織捏儀,運動服(fu)裝等(deng)(deng)。605又(you)稱(cheng)三針(zhen)(zhen)網面線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji)。主要(yao)用語衣服(fu)上縫(feng)(feng)(feng)橡津,切滾(gun)條(tiao)和拼接縫(feng)(feng)(feng)的(de)(de)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)合(he)等(deng)(deng)工序(xu)。607是四(si)(si)針(zhen)(zhen)網面線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji),有四(si)(si)條(tiao)針(zhen)(zhen)線(xian)(xian)知識(shi)比605加了一(yi)條(tiao)陣線(xian)(xian)其他類(lei)似。綜上所述,600類(lei)主要(yao)用于針(zhen)(zhen)織服(fu)裝的(de)(de)滾(gun)邊,滾(gun)領,折邊,拼接縫(feng)(feng)(feng)和裝飾花(hua)邊等(deng)(deng)工序(xu),其實也就是繃縫(feng)(feng)(feng)啦。)
bartack,(bar tack,bar-tack)套(tao)結,倒回針,加(jia)固(gu)縫(feng),打(da)棗(zao)
flat-lock stitch,(flat lock stitch),covering stitch覆蓋線(xian)跡(ji),繃縫線(xian)跡(ji)
interlock stitch聯鎖(suo)線(xian)跡,多(duo)線(xian)鏈(lian)式線(xian)跡
single thread chain stitch單線鏈式線跡(ji),單線鏈狀線,單線鎖鏈底針步,(101線跡(ji)),(用于假縫,如袋(dai)口)
103線跡(ji)-blind stitch暗(an)(an)縫(feng),暗(an)(an)繰針(zhen)縫(feng),挑腳,
301線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)-lock stitch,plain stitch鎖式線(xian)(xian)跡(ji),平(ping)縫(feng)線(xian)(xian)跡(ji),普通線(xian)(xian)跡(ji),平(ping)車針(zhen)步,(最常見的線(xian)(xian)跡(ji))
304線跡(ji)(ji)-zigzag lock stitch曲折鎖(suo)式線跡(ji)(ji),鋸齒形(xing)(xing)鎖(suo)式線跡(ji)(ji),Z形(xing)(xing)鎖(suo)式線跡(ji)(ji),之字形(xing)(xing)平車針(zhen)步,人字形(xing)(xing)平車針(zhen)步,(底面線都是鎖(suo)式線跡(ji)(ji))
401線(xian)跡-single needle chain stitch單針鏈式線(xian)跡,單針鏈狀針步,單針鎖鏈底針步
404線(xian)跡(ji)(ji)(ji)-zigzag chain stitch曲折鏈式線(xian)跡(ji)(ji)(ji),鋸齒形鏈式線(xian)跡(ji)(ji)(ji),Z形鏈式線(xian)跡(ji)(ji)(ji),人字鎖(suo)鏈底針步,(面線(xian)是鎖(suo)式線(xian)跡(ji)(ji)(ji),底線(xian)是鏈式線(xian)跡(ji)(ji)(ji))
406線(xian)跡(ji)-2 needles bottom cover stitch雙(shuang)針(zhen)底部覆蓋(gai)線(xian)跡(ji),雙(shuang)針(zhen)網底針(zhen)步(bu),(用于腰帶袢,針(zhen)織服裝的袖口、下擺(bai)等)
407線跡-3 needles bottom cover stitch三針底(di)部(bu)繃(beng)縫線跡,三針網(wang)底(di)針步
408線跡(ji)-2 needles chain stitch with cover thread雙針鏈(lian)式表面覆蓋(gai)線跡(ji),雙針網(wang)面鎖鏈(lian)底針步
503線跡-2 threads overedge stitch雙(shuang)線拷邊,雙(shuang)線包邊,雙(shuang)線钑骨
504線(xian)(xian)(xian)跡-overlock stitch,coveredge stitch,3 threads overedge stitch包縫線(xian)(xian)(xian)跡,拷(kao)邊(bian)線(xian)(xian)(xian)跡,鎖(suo)邊(bian)線(xian)(xian)(xian)跡,三(san)線(xian)(xian)(xian)拷(kao)邊(bian),三(san)線(xian)(xian)(xian)包邊(bian),三(san)線(xian)(xian)(xian)钑骨,(最常見的拷(kao)邊(bian)線(xian)(xian)(xian)跡)
512線跡(ji)-mock safety stitch假(jia)線跡(ji),模擬線跡(ji),(用于彈性面(mian)料接縫)
514線(xian)跡-2 needles 4 threads overedge stitch雙(shuang)針四線(xian)拷(kao)邊,雙(shuang)針四線(xian)包邊,雙(shuang)針四線(xian)钑骨,(用于彈性面料接縫)
515線跡(401+503)-4 threads safety stitch四線安全(quan)線跡,四線安全(quan)針(zhen)步
516線(xian)(xian)跡(401+504)-safety stitch,5 threads safety stitch五線(xian)(xian)拷邊,五線(xian)(xian)鎖邊,安全(quan)線(xian)(xian)跡,五線(xian)(xian)包(bao)邊安全(quan)線(xian)(xian)跡,五線(xian)(xian)钑骨
602線(xian)跡(ji)-2 needles 4 threads cover stitch雙(shuang)針四線(xian)繃縫線(xian)跡(ji)
605線跡-3 needles 5 threads cover stitch三針五線繃縫線跡
606線(xian)跡(ji)-4 needles 9 threads cover stitch,(flatlock stitch)四針九線(xian)平式繃縫線(xian)跡(ji)
607線(xian)跡-4 needles 6 threads cover stitch,(flatseamer/flatlock stitch)四針六線(xian)平式繃縫(feng)線(xian)跡,pearl stitch珠式線(xian)跡,
(Used in knitting,for fancy borders and edges,one which worked back on itself allowing a rippled effect to be made.Because of this,he received the nickname of"perley wilson"。)
線跡服飾工藝知識
平縫線跡----PLAIN STITCH,FLAT STITCH
疏縫(feng)線跡(ji)----BASTING STITCH,TACKING STITC
繃縫(feng)線跡(ji)----COVERING STITCH,FLAT-LOCK STITCH
絎縫線跡(ji)----QUILTED STITCH
嵌(qian)縫(feng)線(xian)跡----CORD STITCH
面縫線跡(ji)----TOP STITCH,OVER STITCH
暗縫線跡----INVISIBLE STITCH,BLIND STITCH
繰縫線跡----SLIP STITCH
折縫線跡----FELL STITCH
倒縫線跡----REVERSIBLE STITCH,BACKWARD STITCH
包(bao)縫線(xian)跡----OVERLOCK STITCH,OVERCASTING STITCH,OVEREDGE
鎖式(shi)線跡----LOCK STITCH,LOCKSTITCH
鏈式線跡----CHAIN STITCH
聯(lian)式線跡----CHAINLOCK STITCH
人(ren)字線跡(ji)----HERRINGBONE STITCH
羽狀線跡(ji)----FEATHER STITCH
珠式線跡(ji)----PEARL STITCH
Z形線跡----CATCH STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
角(jiao)形線跡----ANGLE STITCH
弓形線跡(ji)----ARCHED STITCH
鋸齒形狀線跡----PICOT STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
貝殼形狀(zhuang)線跡----SHELL STITCH
網眼(yan)形狀(zhuang)線跡----BASKET STITCH
蜂(feng)窩形狀線跡----HONEYCOMB STITCH
直形線跡----STRAIGHT STITCH
雙十字形狀線跡---DOUBLE STITCH
交叉(cha)線跡(ji),十字線跡(ji)---CROSS STITCH
圓(yuan)形線(xian)跡----ROUND STITCH
廓(kuo)形(xing)線跡----OUTLINE STITCH
曲折形線跡---ZIGZAG SITITCH
變(bian)形線(xian)跡---CHANGE STITCH
鉤編(bian)線跡(ji)---CROCHET STITCH
織(zhi)補線跡---DARNING STITCH
刺繡線(xian)跡---EMBROIDERY STITCH,CREWEL STITCH
裝飾線跡---ORNAMENTAL STITCH,DECORATIVE STITCH
花式(shi)線跡---FANCY STITCH
點劃線跡---DOT DASH STITCH
對稱線跡---COUNTER STITCH
比翼線跡---FLY STITCH
特殊線跡---SPECIAL STITCH
復合線跡(ji)---COMBINATION STITCH,SPLIT STITCH
復式線(xian)跡---DOUBLE ACTION STITCH
雙針線跡(ji)---TWICE STITCH
雙重(zhong)線跡---TWICE STITCH
三重線跡(ji)---TRIPLE STITCH
縫式線跡---SEAM STITCH
加固線(xian)跡---FASTENING STITCH,TACKING STITCH
打結線跡---KNOTTING STITCH
扎(zha)縛(fu)線跡---PADDING STITCH
袖褶線跡---SHIRRING STITCH
伸縮線跡---STRETCH STITCH,ELASIC STITCH
滾邊線跡---BINDING STITCH
卷邊線跡(ji)---HEMMING STITCH
暗卷縫線跡(ji)---BLINDING HEMMING STITCH
拼合線跡---ABUTTING STITCH
間斷線跡---BROKEN STITCH
跳針線跡(ji)---SKIPPING STITCH
安全線跡---SAFETY STITCH
手針縫法
繚針法(fa)----SLIP STITCH
拱針法----PRICK STITCH
明繰針法(fa)---FELL STITCH
暗(an)繰針法---BLING HEMMING STITCH
環針法----CATCH STITCH
疊(die)針法(fa)----FASTENING STITCH
扎針法----PAD STITCH
扳針法----DIAGONAL BASTING
絎針法----QUILTING STITCH
鎖針法(fa)----LOCK STITCH
倒針法(fa)----BARTACK STITCH,BACK STITCH
三角(jiao)針法---HERRINGBONE STITCH
楊樹(shu)花針法--FEATHER STITCH
花針(zhen)法----ZIGZAG STITCH
跳針(zhen)法----SKIPPING STITCH
縫(feng)線跡(ji)----PLAIN STITCH,FLAT STITCH
疏縫(feng)線跡----BASTING STITCH,TACKING STITCH
繃(beng)縫線(xian)跡----COVERING STITCH,FLAT-LOCK STITCH
絎縫線跡----QUILTED STITCH
嵌(qian)縫線跡----CORD STITCH
面(mian)縫線跡----TOP STITCH,OVER STITCH
暗縫(feng)線跡----INVISIBLE STITCH,BLIND STITCH
繰縫線跡----SLIP STITCH
折縫線跡(ji)----FELL STITCH
倒縫線跡----REVERSIBLE STITCH,BACKWARD STITCH
包縫線跡----OVERLOCK STITCH,OVERCASTING STITCH,OVEREDGE
鎖(suo)式線跡----LOCK STITCH,LOCKSTITCH
鏈式(shi)線跡----CHAIN STITCH
聯式線跡(ji)----CHAINLOCK STITCH
人字線跡----HERRINGBONE STITCH
羽狀(zhuang)線跡----FEATHER STITCH
珠式(shi)線跡----PEARL STITCH
Z形(xing)線跡(ji)----CATCH STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
角(jiao)形線跡----ANGLE STITCH
弓形線跡----ARCHED STITCH
鋸齒形狀線跡----PICOT STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
貝殼(ke)形(xing)狀線跡----SHELL STITCH
網眼形狀線跡----BASKET STITCH
蜂窩形狀線跡----HONEYCOMB STITCH
直形線(xian)跡----STRAIGHT STITCH
雙十字形狀線跡---DOUBLE STITCH
交叉(cha)線跡(ji),十字線跡(ji)---CROSS STITCH
圓(yuan)形線跡----ROUND STITCH
廓形線跡(ji)----OUTLINE STITCH
曲折形(xing)線跡(ji)---ZIGZAG SITITCH
變形線跡---CHANGE STITCH
鉤(gou)編線跡---CROCHET STITCH
織(zhi)補線跡(ji)---DARNING STITCH
刺繡線跡---EMBROIDERY STITCH,CREWEL STITCH
裝飾(shi)線跡(ji)---ORNAMENTAL STITCH,DECORATIVE STITCH
花式線跡(ji)---FANCY STITCH
點劃線跡---DOT DASH STITCH
對(dui)稱線(xian)跡---COUNTER STITCH
比翼線跡---FLY STITCH
特殊線(xian)跡---SPECIAL STITCH
復合線(xian)跡(ji)---COMBINATION STITCH,SPLIT STITCH
復式(shi)線(xian)跡---DOUBLE ACTION STITCH
雙(shuang)針線(xian)跡---TWICE STITCH
雙重線(xian)跡---TWICE STITCH
三重線(xian)跡---TRIPLE STITCH
縫式線跡---SEAM STITCH
加固(gu)線跡---FASTENING STITCH,TACKING STITCH
打結線跡(ji)---KNOTTING STITCH
扎縛線跡---PADDING STITCH
袖褶線跡---SHIRRING STITCH
伸縮線跡---STRETCH STITCH,ELASIC STITCH
滾邊線跡---BINDING STITCH
卷邊線跡---HEMMING STITCH
暗卷縫線跡---BLINDING HEMMING STITCH
拼合線(xian)跡---ABUTTING STITCH
間斷(duan)線跡---BROKEN STITCH
跳(tiao)針線跡---SKIPPING STITCH
安全線跡---SAFETY STITCH
手針縫法
繚針法(fa)----SLIP STITCH
拱針(zhen)法----PRICK STITCH
明繰針法(fa)---FELL STITCH
暗繰針法---BLING HEMMING STITCH
環針法----CATCH STITCH
疊針法----FASTENING STITCH
扎針法----PAD STITCH
扳針法----DIAGONAL BASTING
絎針法----QUILTING STITCH
鎖針法----LOCK STITCH
倒(dao)針法----BARTACK STITCH,BACK STITCH
三(san)角針(zhen)法---HERRINGBONE STITCH
楊(yang)樹花針法--FEATHER STITCH
花針法----ZIGZAG STITCH
跳針(zhen)法----SKIPPING STITCH
縫型,縫式---SEAM TYPE,SEAM PATTERN
結(jie)構縫-----COMPOSITE SEAM
普通縫-----NORMAL SEAM
裝(zhuang)飾縫-----ORNAMENTAL SEAM,DECORATIVE SEAM
連續縫(feng)-----CONTINUOUS SEAM
間斷縫(feng)-----BROKEN SEAM
長縫------LONG SEAM
短縫------SHORT SEAM
內縫------INSEAM
外縫(feng)---------OUTSEAM
原縫(feng)------THICK SEAM
中(zhong)縫------CENTRE SEAM
側(ce)縫------SIDE SEAM
斜線縫(feng)-----BIAS SEAM
繚縫------SLANTING SEAM
弧線縫-----CURVED SEAM
轉角縫-----CORNER SEAM
平(ping)縫--------------FLAT SEAM
平(ping)接縫(feng)-----SLAT FELL SEAM,BUTTED SEA M
搭接縫-----LAPPING SEAM
雙搭接縫----DOUBLE LAPPED SEAM
接合(he)縫-----JOINING SEAM
拼(pin)合(he)縫-----ABUTTED SEAM
雙線縫-----TWIN SEAM
鑲(xiang)色(se)縫-----CONTRAST COLOR SEAM
嵌(qian)花縫-----APPLIANCE SEAM'
繃縫(feng),覆蓋縫(feng)--FLAT LOCK SEAM,COVERED SEAM
來去縫-----FRENCH SEAM,BAG SEAM
萊(lai)克拉縫----LYCRA SEAM
伸縮縫-----STRETCH SEAM,ELASTIC SEAM
漏落縫-----SELF BOUND SEAM
坐倒(dao)縫-----LAPPING SEAM
開縫------OPENING SEAM
分(fen)緝縫(feng)-----DOUBLE TOPSTITCHED SEAM
壓緝縫-----TOPSTITCHED LAP SEAM
坐緝(ji)縫-----TUCKED SEAM
成形縫-----FINISHING SEAM,FASHION SEAM
明縫,面(mian)縫--OUTSEAM,TOPSTICH SEAM
暗縫---------BLIND SEAM,INVISIBLE SEAM
暗邊縫-----HIND EDGE SEAM
包縫------OVERSEAM,CLOSED SEAM,OVEREDGE SEAM,OVERCAST SEAM,OVERLOCK SEAM
明包縫(feng)-----FLAT FELL SEAM
暗包縫-----WELT SEAM
鎖(suo)式(shi)線縫----LOCKSTITCH SEAM
連鎖縫-----INTERLOCK SEAM
鏈式線縫----CHAINSTITCH SEAM
環縫------CATCH STITCH SEAM
嵌(qian)縫------CORDING SEAM
絎(heng)縫------QUILTING SEAM
格子縫-----LATTICE SEAM
交叉縫-----CROSS SEAM
泡(pao)狀縫(feng)-----BEADED SEAM,
鋸齒縫-----GERMAN SEAM,ZIGZAG SEAM
曲(qu)折縫-----ZIGZAG SEAM
蝶形縫-----BUTTERFLY SEAM
辮形縫-----PLAITED SEAM
凸(tu)形縫(feng)-----RAISED SEAM
帶形縫(feng)-----STRAP SEAM
懸縫------HANGING SEAM
保險縫-----FLAT FELL SEAM
加固縫(feng)-----TACKING SEAM,FASTENING SEAM
終止縫-----FINAL SEAM
領縫------COLLAR SEAM NECK SEAM
肩(jian)縫------SHOULDER SEAM
背縫------BACK SEAM
背嵌(qian)縫-----CENTRE BACK SEAM
袖(xiu)下縫(feng)-----UNDERARM SEAM
袖籠縫-----ARMHOLE SEAM
門襟縫-----FRONT FLY SEAM,PLACKET SEA M
門襟止口縫---FORNT EDGE SEAM
擺縫(feng)-----SIDE SEAM
衩縫------VENT SEAM
腰縫(feng)------WAISTLINE SEAM
腰帶縫-----WAISTBAND SEAM
襠縫------CROTCH SEAM
前襠縫-----FRONT RISE SEAM
后(hou)襠縫-----BACK RISE SEAM,SEAT SEAM
下襠縫-----INSIDE SEAM,INSEAM
折疊(die)縫-----FOLDING SEAM
褶(zhe)裥縫-----BUCKED SEAM,PLKEAT SEAM
對折縫-----FELLED SEAM
卷邊縫-----HEMMING SEAM
貼邊縫-----WELT SEAM
滾邊縫-----BOUND SEAM
織補縫-----DARNING SEAM
貼帶縫-----TAPED SEAM