天鵝絨是什么面料
天(tian)鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong),即(ji)漳(zhang)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)。因起源于中國(guo)福建省(sheng)漳(zhang)州地區而得(de)名。明代已有大量生產,是中國(guo)傳統(tong)織物(wu)之一。天(tian)鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)素(su)來是傳統(tong)的(de)(de)秋裝(zhuang)(zhuang)流(liu)行面料,它奢華(hua)的(de)(de)氣質(zhi)和(he)豐富的(de)(de)紋(wen)理營造出魔法般的(de)(de)時尚氛圍(wei)。天(tian)鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)面料均采用(yong)高配以(yi)上的(de)(de)優質(zhi)棉(mian)紗制成,主要有素(su)色(se)、印花(hua)(hua)(hua)、提花(hua)(hua)(hua)和(he)抽條、色(se)織以(yi)及爛(lan)花(hua)(hua)(hua)幾個系列。素(su)天(tian)鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)表面全部絨(rong)(rong)(rong)圈(quan),花(hua)(hua)(hua)天(tian)鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)則是將(jiang)部分絨(rong)(rong)(rong)圈(quan)按(an)花(hua)(hua)(hua)紋(wen)割斷成絨(rong)(rong)(rong)毛,使(shi)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)毛與絨(rong)(rong)(rong)圈(quan)相(xiang)間,構(gou)成花(hua)(hua)(hua)紋(wen)。天(tian)鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)的(de)(de)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)毛或絨(rong)(rong)(rong)圈(quan)緊密聳立,色(se)光文雅,堅牢耐(nai)磨,可用(yong)于制做服裝(zhuang)(zhuang)、帽子和(he)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)飾物(wu)。
天(tian)鵝(e)(e)絨(rong),在明清兩(liang)代最為興盛,有(you)花(hua)(hua)天(tian)鵝(e)(e)絨(rong)和(he)素天(tian)鵝(e)(e)絨(rong)二種。花(hua)(hua)天(tian)鵝(e)(e)絨(rong)是指將部分絨(rong)圈(quan)按(an)花(hua)(hua)紋割斷成絨(rong)毛,使之與未(wei)斷的線(xian)(xian)圈(quan)聯同構成紋樣(yang);而(er)素天(tian)鵝(e)(e)絨(rong)則(ze)其(qi)表面全為絨(rong)圈(quan)。一(yi)(yi)般天(tian)鵝(e)(e)絨(rong)用蠶(can)絲(si)作(zuo)原料或(huo)作(zuo)經(jing)線(xian)(xian),以(yi)棉(mian)紗(sha)作(zuo)緯線(xian)(xian),再以(yi)桑蠶(can)絲(si)(或(huo)人造絲(si))起(qi)(qi)絨(rong)圈(quan)。織(zhi)(zhi)造時,每織(zhi)(zhi)四根絨(rong)線(xian)(xian)便(bian)織(zhi)(zhi)入一(yi)(yi)根起(qi)(qi)絨(rong)桿(即細鐵絲(si)),織(zhi)(zhi)到一(yi)(yi)定長度(du)時即在機上(shang)用割刀(dao)沿鐵絲(si)剖割,即成毛絨(rong)。毛絨(rong)如(ru)何起(qi)(qi)是依紋樣(yang)設計。構成織(zhi)(zhi)物的紋樣(yang)有(you)兩(liang)種形式:一(yi)(yi)是絨(rong)花(hua)(hua)緞(duan)地、即漳緞(duan);一(yi)(yi)是絨(rong)地緞(duan)花(hua)(hua),即天(tian)鵝(e)(e)絨(rong)。其(qi)特點是少有(you)織(zhi)(zhi)地,有(you)單、雙色,或(huo)嵌金銀線(xian)(xian)
天鵝絨面料的優缺點
一、優點
1、天鵝絨(rong)絨(rong)毛豐滿,質地細膩(ni),手感柔軟,穿著舒適,美觀(guan)大(da)方。有彈性(xing),不掉毛,不起球(qiu),吸水(shui)性(xing)能好,是全棉產品的三倍,而且對(dui)皮膚無(wu)任(ren)何刺(ci)激。
2、天鵝(e)絨的絨毛(mao)或絨圈緊密聳立,色光文雅,織(zhi)物(wu)堅牢耐磨,不易(yi)褪(tun)色,回力(li)彈性好。
3、天鵝絨產品要求(qiu)品級要高、線密度(du)要小、長(chang)度(du)長(chang)、成(cheng)熟度(du)好的細長(chang)絨優質棉。
4、天鵝絨細膩的(de)(de)觸感、流(liu)通的(de)(de)垂墜感和高雅的(de)(de)光澤依(yi)然是(shi)其他布料(liao)無法比擬的(de)(de),因而(er)一直是(shi)時(shi)裝(zhuang)描繪(hui)師們華貴(gui)布中的(de)(de)摯愛挑(tiao)選。
二、缺點
1、不(bu)經意地堆疊天鵝絨(rong)服裝,很容(rong)易(yi)損壞絨(rong)毛的天然走向,很難康復,容(rong)易(yi)有靜(jing)電(dian)。
2、因(yin)為天鵝(e)絨(rong)本身的特性,表(biao)面為密密麻麻的小(xiao)絨(rong)毛(mao)組成,在面料生產及加工過程中(zhong),會(hui)殘留一(yi)些小(xiao)絨(rong)毛(mao)顆粒在衣服上,這是(shi)不可避免(mian)。一(yi)般在前幾次的洗滌中(zhong)會(hui)沖洗出來,尤其(qi)是(shi)黑色(se)、寶藍、碳(tan)灰(hui)等深色(se)系的衣服會(hui)特別明顯一(yi)些。