簡介
富春江景區以(yi)奇(qi)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)異水聞名(ming)。其(qi)中(zhong),申(shen)屠山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)和(he)(he)天子崗可(ke)謂奇(qi)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)了(le)。申(shen)屠山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)屬富陽市,在富春江南岸,離東梓只有(you)三(san)公里左(zuo)右。宋(song)朝人陳剛(gang)中(zhong)有(you)《申(shen)屠山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)記》一(yi)(yi)篇,說這(zhe)個(ge)(ge)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)“峰巒重復,端若拱揖,應接不(bu)(bu)(bu)暇。湍(tuan)水怪(guai)石,神刻鬼劃,千(qian)(qian)巧(qiao)萬狀。中(zhong)有(you)平田,如設萬席。挺然僧(seng)(seng)寺,出于林表(biao)。佳(jia)木(mu)修竹,左(zuo)右交翠。此(ci)申(shen)屠剛(gang)違(wei)新室(王莽篡(cuan)漢(han)(han),改(gai)國號為(wei)(wei)(wei)新)之(zhi)(zhi)禍,申(shen)屠蟠晦黨(dang)錮之(zhi)(zhi)名(ming),避地結廬,于今千(qian)(qian)載,子孫因(yin)(yin)家焉(yan)。支派分衍,至百余室。因(yin)(yin)姓而名(ming)其(qi)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan),山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)之(zhi)(zhi)陽復以(yi)申(shen)屠志其(qi)地。”原來(lai)(lai)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)上有(you)一(yi)(yi)古廟名(ming)大雄(xiong)寺,建于唐長(chang)興(xing)三(san)年。唐末(mo)有(you)一(yi)(yi)高(gao)僧(seng)(seng)禪(chan)月尊者,曾在寺內(nei)畫十(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)六(liu)羅(luo)漢(han)(han)(羅(luo)漢(han)(han)系(xi)印度傳(chuan)入(ru),本來(lai)(lai)只有(you)十(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)六(liu),宋(song)時(shi)有(you)人添加了(le)兩個(ge)(ge),從(cong)此(ci)變成(cheng)十(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)八),栩栩如生。據傳(chuan)第(di)十(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)六(liu)尊,還是照著他(ta)自(zi)己(ji)的相貌畫的。這(zhe)位高(gao)僧(seng)(seng)不(bu)(bu)(bu)僅善(shan)畫,而且工詩(shi)。剛(gang)到杭州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)(zhou),住在給事中(zhong)羅(luo)隱家里,作詩(shi)甚(shen)多(duo),中(zhong)有(you)名(ming)句(ju)“一(yi)(yi)瓶一(yi)(yi)缽垂(chui)垂(chui)老(lao),千(qian)(qian)水千(qian)(qian)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)得得來(lai)(lai)”。羅(luo)甚(shen)為(wei)(wei)(wei)贊賞,推薦給吳越(yue)王錢(qian)镠(liu)。錢(qian)镠(liu)見(jian)其(qi)所獻詩(shi)中(zhong)有(you)句(ju)“一(yi)(yi)劍寒霜十(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)四(si)(si)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)”,就命人請(qing)他(ta)把“十(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)四(si)(si)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)”改(gai)成(cheng)“四(si)(si)十(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)”。因(yin)(yin)為(wei)(wei)(wei)當時(shi)唐室凌替,群雄(xiong)并起,錢(qian)镠(liu)在占領(ling)吳越(yue)十(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)四(si)(si)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)之(zhi)(zhi)后(hou),想南取(qu)(qu)王審知的福州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)(zhou),北取(qu)(qu)楊行密的揚州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)(zhou),拓“十(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)四(si)(si)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)”為(wei)(wei)(wei)“四(si)(si)十(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)”。原本以(yi)為(wei)(wei)(wei)自(zi)己(ji)貴為(wei)(wei)(wei)王侯,叫一(yi)(yi)個(ge)(ge)討飯和(he)(he)尚改(gai)一(yi)(yi)句(ju)詩(shi),自(zi)不(bu)(bu)(bu)在話下。哪(na)里知道這(zhe)位禪(chan)月和(he)(he)尚,偏(pian)偏(pian)不(bu)(bu)(bu)買他(ta)的賬,答道:“州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)亦(yi)不(bu)(bu)(bu)可(ke)添,詩(shi)亦(yi)不(bu)(bu)(bu)可(ke)改(gai)。孤云(yun)野鶴,何天不(bu)(bu)(bu)可(ke)飛?”說完拿了(le)錫杖,離開杭州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)(zhou),就到此(ci)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan),在大雄(xiong)寺內(nei)留下真跡。
天(tian)子(zi)崗(gang)(gang)一(yi)名白鶴峰。因山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)石皆烏色,奇(qi)形怪狀,又名烏石山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan),離東梓關五公里(li)(li)(li)左右,同(tong)申(shen)屠山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)遙(yao)遙(yao)相對。這座山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)原本沒有(you)(you)什么大名氣,后來(lai)東漢孝子(zi)孫(sun)(sun)鐘(zhong)把母親葬在這里(li)(li)(li)。孫(sun)(sun)鐘(zhong)者,孫(sun)(sun)堅的(de)(de)爸爸,孫(sun)(sun)策、孫(sun)(sun)權(quan)的(de)(de)爺(ye)(ye)爺(ye)(ye)也。因為孫(sun)(sun)子(zi)做了皇(huang)帝,有(you)(you)人(ren)就說祖母葬的(de)(de)地(di)方風水好,所(suo)以(yi)就稱之為天(tian)子(zi)崗(gang)(gang)了。妙就妙在這座山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)是這一(yi)帶的(de)(de)最(zui)高(gao)峰,頂(ding)上(shang)(shang)有(you)(you)一(yi)塊大平地(di)。站(zhan)在崗(gang)(gang)上(shang)(shang)近(jin)(jin)覷:群(qun)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)環(huan)繞腳(jiao)下,有(you)(you)似百(bai)官朝天(tian)子(zi),倒有(you)(you)點“碧眼兒坐(zuo)領江東”的(de)(de)氣概;遠眺:江水曲(qu)曲(qu)彎(wan)彎(wan),大桐洲上(shang)(shang)綠(lv)樹環(huan)繞,桃(tao)花(hua)(hua)盛(sheng)開季節,堆錦疊繡,五彩繽紛,使人(ren)眼花(hua)(hua)繚亂(luan)。環(huan)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)四周,有(you)(you)大批名勝古(gu)跡,如小蓬萊、仙人(ren)洞、百(bai)步山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)、樂村廟、天(tian)香寺等數十(shi)處,不(bu)知道目前怎樣了。桐廬江景,自古(gu)稱道煙(yan)雨(yu)(yu)。每當細雨(yu)(yu)霏(fei)霏(fei)的(de)(de)時候,坐(zuo)船在江面上(shang)(shang)駛(shi)過,近(jin)(jin)覷,水面漣漪回環(huan)不(bu)絕(jue),山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)影(ying)樹影(ying)連成一(yi)片,無風自搖;遠看,“綠(lv)樹蒼煙(yan)望欲迷”,但見遠山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)長(chang),云山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)亂(luan),近(jin)(jin)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)青。加之岸(an)邊幾(ji)個(ge)釣客身披(pi)雨(yu)(yu)衣(yi),執竿凝神而(er)坐(zuo),儼(yan)然一(yi)幅絕(jue)妙的(de)(de)“春(chun)江煙(yan)雨(yu)(yu)圖”。江岸(an)上(shang)(shang)峭(qiao)壁高(gao)聳,群(qun)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)連綿不(bu)絕(jue):牛(niu)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan),又名牌門(men)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan),從東到西(xi),恰巧十(shi)里(li)(li)(li),所(suo)以(yi)又稱十(shi)里(li)(li)(li)牌門(men);內逼山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan),外瞰江,山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)路崎嶇屈曲(qu),古(gu)為閩廣皖浙通道,現(xian)在已經修(xiu)鳥道為公路。金雞(ji)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan),極似公雞(ji),古(gu)人(ren)有(you)(you)詩:“天(tian)上(shang)(shang)金雞(ji)種,何時墜此山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)?只因鳴有(you)(you)信(xin),流(liu)落在人(ren)間。”
過了(le)十(shi)(shi)里(li)(li)牌門(men),可見富(fu)春(chun)江(jiang)水(shui)(shui)(shui)電站大壩(ba)(ba)(ba)橫截在江(jiang)面上(shang),此壩(ba)(ba)(ba)高(gao)36米,是(shi)新安江(jiang)大壩(ba)(ba)(ba)的三分之(zhi)一(yi)(yi)多點。壩(ba)(ba)(ba)內壩(ba)(ba)(ba)外,水(shui)(shui)(shui)位相(xiang)差二三十(shi)(shi)米。船(chuan)(chuan)過大壩(ba)(ba)(ba),先要進入壩(ba)(ba)(ba)內船(chuan)(chuan)塢(wu),然后關(guan)上(shang)后閘門(men)放水(shui)(shui)(shui),等(deng)水(shui)(shui)(shui)漲船(chuan)(chuan)高(gao),與(yu)壩(ba)(ba)(ba)內水(shui)(shui)(shui)庫水(shui)(shui)(shui)面平齊,前閘門(men)才徐徐落入水(shui)(shui)(shui)中,船(chuan)(chuan)即穿閘門(men)駛入富(fu)春(chun)江(jiang)水(shui)(shui)(shui)庫。穿壩(ba)(ba)(ba)而出,便進入一(yi)(yi)個(ge)“神仙(xian)世(shi)界”:富(fu)春(chun)江(jiang)最主要的風景區——嚴(yan)子(zi)陵釣臺。這里(li)(li)原名(ming)嚴(yan)瀨。上(shang)世(shi)紀60年代,利用(yong)兩山(shan)夾峙的自然條件,建(jian)設(she)富(fu)春(chun)江(jiang)水(shui)(shui)(shui)電站,修了(le)一(yi)(yi)個(ge)水(shui)(shui)(shui)庫,灘深(shen)流(liu)急的嚴(yan)瀨,便成(cheng)了(le)一(yi)(yi)個(ge)波(bo)平如鏡的人工湖。船(chuan)(chuan)就停在離水(shui)(shui)(shui)壩(ba)(ba)(ba)一(yi)(yi)里(li)(li)多路(lu)的地(di)方。原來沿江(jiang)有一(yi)(yi)條小路(lu)直通釣臺,修了(le)水(shui)(shui)(shui)庫,路(lu)已淹(yan)沒(mei),去釣臺必須坐蘆茨公社的渡船(chuan)(chuan),在水(shui)(shui)(shui)庫上(shang)行三四里(li)(li),方到達釣臺腳下。
所(suo)謂釣(diao)(diao)臺(tai)(tai),其(qi)(qi)實是(shi)突出富春山(shan)腰的(de)兩(liang)塊大磐石(shi),高(gao)度(du)相仿,東(dong)(dong)(dong)西(xi)對峙,天造地設(she),確是(shi)天下少見。富春山(shan)一(yi)(yi)名嚴陵山(shan),在桐廬縣城西(xi)四十(shi)(shi)里。山(shan)高(gao)193米,迤(yi)邐七里。《圖經》上(shang)說:“嚴陵山(shan)清(qing)麗奇絕(jue),號錦峰繡嶺(ling)。”凡是(shi)到過此(ci)地的(de)人,都認(ren)為(wei)這(zhe)(zhe)(zhe)八個字并非過譽(yu)。連接東(dong)(dong)(dong)西(xi)兩(liang)臺(tai)(tai)的(de)一(yi)(yi)條山(shan)脊上(shang),中間有一(yi)(yi)石(shi)亭(ting),用七八十(shi)(shi)塊條石(shi)砌嵌(qian)而成,不(bu)用一(yi)(yi)根木料,也(ye)不(bu)用一(yi)(yi)點水(shui)泥(ni)。長方(fang)形,面積約二十(shi)(shi)平方(fang),式樣樸(pu)素大方(fang)。這(zhe)(zhe)(zhe)就是(shi)過去的(de)雙清(qing)亭(ting)。據(ju)了(le)解(jie),東(dong)(dong)(dong)西(xi)釣(diao)(diao)臺(tai)(tai)上(shang)面原(yuan)來都沒有建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)。一(yi)(yi)直到明(ming)朝正統(tong)元年(nian)(nian)(1436年(nian)(nian)),嚴州(zhou)知府在東(dong)(dong)(dong)西(xi)兩(liang)臺(tai)(tai)各建(jian)(jian)一(yi)(yi)亭(ting),刻石(shi)為(wei)額(e)(e),東(dong)(dong)(dong)曰“不(bu)事王(wang)侯(hou)”,西(xi)曰“高(gao)尚其(qi)(qi)志”,明(ming)末被毀(hui)。到清(qing)乾隆(long)十(shi)(shi)九年(nian)(nian)(1754年(nian)(nian)),再由羅氏兄弟復建(jian)(jian)。西(xi)臺(tai)(tai)亭(ting)上(shang)石(shi)額(e)(e)改為(wei)“留(liu)絲一(yi)(yi)鼎”,東(dong)(dong)(dong)臺(tai)(tai)亭(ting)上(shang)石(shi)額(e)(e)改為(wei)“垂(chui)竿百(bai)尺”。后(hou)來,西(xi)臺(tai)(tai)亭(ting)又(you)(you)壞掉,到民國初年(nian)(nian)再重建(jian)(jian)。除這(zhe)(zhe)(zhe)兩(liang)個石(shi)亭(ting)外(wai),1925年(nian)(nian)廣東(dong)(dong)(dong)人陳煥(huan)之又(you)(you)在這(zhe)(zhe)(zhe)個山(shan)脊上(shang)建(jian)(jian)了(le)這(zhe)(zhe)(zhe)個雙清(qing)亭(ting)。現(xian)在亭(ting)上(shang)石(shi)額(e)(e)已被砸毀(hui)。左右石(shi)柱(zhu)上(shang)的(de)對聯,字跡(ji)約略可(ke)辨:“遠道(dao)息塵勞,向(xiang)此(ci)間坐(zuo)石(shi)看(kan)云,放懷宇宙;高(gao)臺(tai)(tai)瞻勝跡(ji),羨當日耕山(shan)釣(diao)(diao)水(shui),俯視王(wang)侯(hou)。”
極目(mu)遠(yuan)(yuan)望東南,這一帶的最高(gao)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)高(gao)龍門(men)直沖云霄,峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)頸白(bai)云繚(liao)繞;峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)前峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)左峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)右,群山(shan)(shan)環(huan)抱(bao);最多(duo)的地方,有六重山(shan)(shan),層層相(xiang)疊。遠(yuan)(yuan)處天邊,白(bai)云破(po)處,一抹藍(lan)天,晶瑩澄澈,似(si)藍(lan)非(fei)藍(lan),似(si)青非(fei)青。夕陽返(fan)照,光怪陸離,遠(yuan)(yuan)遠(yuan)(yuan)望去,似(si)有仙子乘鸞來去。正南,山(shan)(shan)坡上(shang)遍種橘樹。迤(yi)西,也是一山(shan)(shan)接(jie)一山(shan)(shan),一峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)連一峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng),山(shan)(shan)山(shan)(shan)俱青,峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)皆秀。“錦峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)繡(xiu)嶺”,果然名不虛(xu)傳(chuan)。俯視腳下(xia),一條清江(jiang),依山(shan)(shan)而流;萬頃碧波,風平浪靜;幾點白(bai)帆,飄蕩(dang)其間。黃公望的杰作《富春山(shan)(shan)居圖》將此情此景描繪得恰到(dao)好處。雖然時隔七百年,眼(yan)下(xia)的清江(jiang)已非(fei)昔日的急流,但是,風景、意境(jing)依然未(wei)變(bian)。“人在畫圖中”,古人言之(zhi)有理(li)。