簡介
富(fu)春江(jiang)景區以奇山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)異水(shui)聞名(ming)。其中,申屠(tu)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)和(he)天(tian)子崗(gang)可(ke)謂奇山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)了(le)。申屠(tu)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)屬(shu)富(fu)陽(yang)(yang)市,在富(fu)春江(jiang)南岸,離(li)(li)東梓只(zhi)有(you)(you)三(san)公里(li)(li)左右。宋朝人(ren)(ren)陳剛(gang)(gang)中有(you)(you)《申屠(tu)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)記》一(yi)篇(pian),說這(zhe)個山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)“峰巒重復,端(duan)若拱揖(yi),應接不暇(xia)。湍水(shui)怪(guai)石,神刻鬼劃,千(qian)巧萬(wan)狀。中有(you)(you)平(ping)田,如設萬(wan)席。挺然僧(seng)寺,出于(yu)林表。佳木修竹,左右交翠(cui)。此申屠(tu)剛(gang)(gang)違新(xin)室(shi)(shi)(王(wang)莽篡漢(han)(han),改(gai)國號為(wei)新(xin))之(zhi)禍,申屠(tu)蟠晦黨錮(gu)之(zhi)名(ming),避地結廬,于(yu)今千(qian)載(zai),子孫因(yin)家(jia)焉。支派分衍,至(zhi)百余(yu)室(shi)(shi)。因(yin)姓而名(ming)其山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan),山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)之(zhi)陽(yang)(yang)復以申屠(tu)志(zhi)其地。”原(yuan)來山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)上有(you)(you)一(yi)古廟名(ming)大雄(xiong)寺,建于(yu)唐(tang)長興(xing)三(san)年。唐(tang)末有(you)(you)一(yi)高僧(seng)禪月尊者(zhe),曾在寺內畫十(shi)(shi)六(liu)(liu)羅(luo)漢(han)(han)(羅(luo)漢(han)(han)系印度傳入,本(ben)來只(zhi)有(you)(you)十(shi)(shi)六(liu)(liu),宋時有(you)(you)人(ren)(ren)添(tian)加了(le)兩個,從此變成(cheng)十(shi)(shi)八),栩栩如生(sheng)。據(ju)傳第十(shi)(shi)六(liu)(liu)尊,還是照著他(ta)(ta)自(zi)己的(de)相(xiang)貌(mao)畫的(de)。這(zhe)位(wei)高僧(seng)不僅善畫,而且工詩。剛(gang)(gang)到杭州(zhou)(zhou),住在給(gei)(gei)事中羅(luo)隱家(jia)里(li)(li),作詩甚多,中有(you)(you)名(ming)句“一(yi)瓶一(yi)缽(bo)垂垂老,千(qian)水(shui)千(qian)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)得(de)得(de)來”。羅(luo)甚為(wei)贊賞,推薦給(gei)(gei)吳(wu)越王(wang)錢(qian)镠(liu)(liu)。錢(qian)镠(liu)(liu)見其所獻詩中有(you)(you)句“一(yi)劍寒霜十(shi)(shi)四州(zhou)(zhou)”,就命人(ren)(ren)請他(ta)(ta)把“十(shi)(shi)四州(zhou)(zhou)”改(gai)成(cheng)“四十(shi)(shi)州(zhou)(zhou)”。因(yin)為(wei)當時唐(tang)室(shi)(shi)凌替,群雄(xiong)并(bing)起(qi),錢(qian)镠(liu)(liu)在占(zhan)領吳(wu)越十(shi)(shi)四州(zhou)(zhou)之(zhi)后,想南取(qu)(qu)王(wang)審知的(de)福州(zhou)(zhou),北取(qu)(qu)楊行密的(de)揚州(zhou)(zhou),拓“十(shi)(shi)四州(zhou)(zhou)”為(wei)“四十(shi)(shi)州(zhou)(zhou)”。原(yuan)本(ben)以為(wei)自(zi)己貴(gui)為(wei)王(wang)侯,叫(jiao)一(yi)個討飯和(he)尚改(gai)一(yi)句詩,自(zi)不在話下(xia)。哪(na)里(li)(li)知道這(zhe)位(wei)禪月和(he)尚,偏偏不買他(ta)(ta)的(de)賬,答道:“州(zhou)(zhou)亦(yi)不可(ke)添(tian),詩亦(yi)不可(ke)改(gai)。孤(gu)云野鶴,何天(tian)不可(ke)飛?”說完(wan)拿了(le)錫杖,離(li)(li)開(kai)杭州(zhou)(zhou),就到此山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan),在大雄(xiong)寺內留下(xia)真跡。
天(tian)(tian)子崗一名白鶴(he)峰(feng)。因(yin)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)石(shi)皆(jie)烏色,奇形怪狀,又(you)名烏石(shi)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan),離東(dong)(dong)梓關(guan)五公(gong)里(li)左右,同申屠山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)遙(yao)遙(yao)相對。這座(zuo)(zuo)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)原本沒有(you)(you)(you)什(shen)么大(da)(da)名氣,后來東(dong)(dong)漢孝子孫鐘把母親葬在(zai)這里(li)。孫鐘者,孫堅(jian)的(de)(de)(de)爸(ba)爸(ba),孫策、孫權的(de)(de)(de)爺(ye)(ye)爺(ye)(ye)也。因(yin)為孫子做了(le)皇帝,有(you)(you)(you)人(ren)(ren)就說祖母葬的(de)(de)(de)地(di)方風水(shui)好,所以就稱之為天(tian)(tian)子崗了(le)。妙就妙在(zai)這座(zuo)(zuo)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)是這一帶的(de)(de)(de)最(zui)高(gao)峰(feng),頂(ding)上有(you)(you)(you)一塊(kuai)大(da)(da)平地(di)。站在(zai)崗上近覷:群山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)環繞腳下,有(you)(you)(you)似百官朝天(tian)(tian)子,倒有(you)(you)(you)點“碧眼(yan)兒坐領(ling)江(jiang)東(dong)(dong)”的(de)(de)(de)氣概(gai);遠眺(tiao):江(jiang)水(shui)曲曲彎(wan)(wan)彎(wan)(wan),大(da)(da)桐(tong)洲(zhou)上綠樹環繞,桃花(hua)盛開季節,堆錦疊繡,五彩(cai)繽紛,使人(ren)(ren)眼(yan)花(hua)繚亂。環山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)四(si)周,有(you)(you)(you)大(da)(da)批名勝古(gu)跡,如小蓬萊、仙人(ren)(ren)洞、百步(bu)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)、樂村廟(miao)、天(tian)(tian)香(xiang)寺等數十(shi)處,不(bu)知道(dao)目前怎樣了(le)。桐(tong)廬江(jiang)景,自古(gu)稱道(dao)煙雨(yu)。每(mei)當細(xi)雨(yu)霏霏的(de)(de)(de)時候(hou),坐船在(zai)江(jiang)面(mian)上駛過,近覷,水(shui)面(mian)漣漪回環不(bu)絕,山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)影樹影連(lian)成(cheng)一片,無風自搖(yao);遠看,“綠樹蒼煙望欲(yu)迷”,但見(jian)遠山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)長,云(yun)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)亂,近山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)青。加之岸邊幾(ji)個釣客(ke)身披雨(yu)衣,執竿凝神而坐,儼(yan)然一幅絕妙的(de)(de)(de)“春江(jiang)煙雨(yu)圖”。江(jiang)岸上峭壁高(gao)聳,群山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)連(lian)綿不(bu)絕:牛山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan),又(you)名牌門山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan),從(cong)東(dong)(dong)到西,恰巧十(shi)里(li),所以又(you)稱十(shi)里(li)牌門;內逼山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan),外瞰(kan)江(jiang),山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)路(lu)崎(qi)嶇屈(qu)曲,古(gu)為閩廣(guang)皖浙通道(dao),現在(zai)已經修(xiu)鳥道(dao)為公(gong)路(lu)。金(jin)雞(ji)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan),極(ji)似公(gong)雞(ji),古(gu)人(ren)(ren)有(you)(you)(you)詩(shi):“天(tian)(tian)上金(jin)雞(ji)種,何(he)時墜此山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)?只因(yin)鳴(ming)有(you)(you)(you)信(xin),流落在(zai)人(ren)(ren)間。”
過了十(shi)里(li)(li)牌(pai)門(men)(men),可見富(fu)春(chun)江水(shui)(shui)電(dian)站大(da)(da)壩(ba)橫截在(zai)江面(mian)上(shang),此壩(ba)高36米(mi),是(shi)新安江大(da)(da)壩(ba)的三分之一多(duo)點。壩(ba)內壩(ba)外,水(shui)(shui)位相差二三十(shi)米(mi)。船(chuan)過大(da)(da)壩(ba),先(xian)要進(jin)入(ru)壩(ba)內船(chuan)塢,然后關上(shang)后閘(zha)(zha)門(men)(men)放水(shui)(shui),等水(shui)(shui)漲船(chuan)高,與壩(ba)內水(shui)(shui)庫(ku)水(shui)(shui)面(mian)平齊,前閘(zha)(zha)門(men)(men)才(cai)徐徐落(luo)入(ru)水(shui)(shui)中,船(chuan)即穿閘(zha)(zha)門(men)(men)駛入(ru)富(fu)春(chun)江水(shui)(shui)庫(ku)。穿壩(ba)而出,便進(jin)入(ru)一個(ge)“神仙世(shi)界”:富(fu)春(chun)江最主(zhu)要的風景區——嚴子陵釣(diao)臺(tai)。這(zhe)里(li)(li)原名(ming)嚴瀨。上(shang)世(shi)紀(ji)60年(nian)代,利用兩山夾(jia)峙的自然條件,建(jian)設富(fu)春(chun)江水(shui)(shui)電(dian)站,修(xiu)了一個(ge)水(shui)(shui)庫(ku),灘深流急的嚴瀨,便成了一個(ge)波平如鏡(jing)的人工湖。船(chuan)就停在(zai)離(li)水(shui)(shui)壩(ba)一里(li)(li)多(duo)路的地方。原來沿江有一條小路直通釣(diao)臺(tai),修(xiu)了水(shui)(shui)庫(ku),路已淹沒(mei),去(qu)釣(diao)臺(tai)必須(xu)坐蘆(lu)茨公社的渡(du)船(chuan),在(zai)水(shui)(shui)庫(ku)上(shang)行三四里(li)(li),方到(dao)達釣(diao)臺(tai)腳下。
所謂釣臺(tai),其實是(shi)(shi)突出富春山腰的(de)(de)兩塊(kuai)大(da)磐石,高度(du)相仿,東(dong)西(xi)(xi)對峙(zhi),天(tian)造地設,確(que)是(shi)(shi)天(tian)下(xia)少見。富春山一名嚴(yan)陵山,在(zai)桐廬(lu)縣城西(xi)(xi)四十(shi)里(li)。山高193米,迤邐(li)七里(li)。《圖經》上(shang)(shang)說:“嚴(yan)陵山清(qing)麗奇絕,號錦峰繡(xiu)嶺。”凡是(shi)(shi)到過此(ci)地的(de)(de)人(ren)(ren),都(dou)認為(wei)(wei)(wei)這八個字(zi)(zi)并非過譽。連(lian)接東(dong)西(xi)(xi)兩臺(tai)的(de)(de)一條山脊上(shang)(shang),中間有一石亭(ting)(ting),用(yong)(yong)七八十(shi)塊(kuai)條石砌嵌而成,不用(yong)(yong)一根(gen)木(mu)料(liao),也(ye)不用(yong)(yong)一點水(shui)泥。長(chang)方形,面積約二十(shi)平方,式樣樸素大(da)方。這就是(shi)(shi)過去的(de)(de)雙清(qing)亭(ting)(ting)。據了解,東(dong)西(xi)(xi)釣臺(tai)上(shang)(shang)面原(yuan)來都(dou)沒有建筑。一直(zhi)到明(ming)(ming)朝正統元年(nian)(1436年(nian)),嚴(yan)州知府在(zai)東(dong)西(xi)(xi)兩臺(tai)各建一亭(ting)(ting),刻(ke)石為(wei)(wei)(wei)額,東(dong)曰“不事王侯(hou)”,西(xi)(xi)曰“高尚其志”,明(ming)(ming)末被(bei)(bei)毀。到清(qing)乾隆十(shi)九年(nian)(1754年(nian)),再(zai)由羅氏兄弟復建。西(xi)(xi)臺(tai)亭(ting)(ting)上(shang)(shang)石額改為(wei)(wei)(wei)“留絲一鼎”,東(dong)臺(tai)亭(ting)(ting)上(shang)(shang)石額改為(wei)(wei)(wei)“垂(chui)竿(gan)百(bai)尺”。后來,西(xi)(xi)臺(tai)亭(ting)(ting)又壞(huai)掉,到民(min)國初年(nian)再(zai)重建。除這兩個石亭(ting)(ting)外(wai),1925年(nian)廣(guang)東(dong)人(ren)(ren)陳煥之又在(zai)這個山脊上(shang)(shang)建了這個雙清(qing)亭(ting)(ting)。現在(zai)亭(ting)(ting)上(shang)(shang)石額已被(bei)(bei)砸毀。左右石柱上(shang)(shang)的(de)(de)對聯,字(zi)(zi)跡(ji)約略(lve)可辨:“遠道息塵勞,向此(ci)間坐石看云(yun),放(fang)懷宇宙;高臺(tai)瞻勝跡(ji),羨當日耕山釣水(shui),俯視王侯(hou)。”
極目遠望東(dong)南,這一(yi)(yi)帶的(de)最(zui)高峰(feng)高龍門直沖云霄,峰(feng)頸白云繚(liao)繞;峰(feng)前峰(feng)左峰(feng)右,群山(shan)(shan)(shan)環抱;最(zui)多(duo)的(de)地(di)方,有六重山(shan)(shan)(shan),層(ceng)層(ceng)相疊。遠處(chu)天邊(bian),白云破處(chu),一(yi)(yi)抹藍(lan)天,晶(jing)瑩(ying)澄澈,似藍(lan)非藍(lan),似青(qing)非青(qing)。夕陽返照,光怪陸(lu)離,遠遠望去,似有仙(xian)子乘鸞來去。正(zheng)南,山(shan)(shan)(shan)坡(po)上遍種橘(ju)樹。迤西,也是一(yi)(yi)山(shan)(shan)(shan)接一(yi)(yi)山(shan)(shan)(shan),一(yi)(yi)峰(feng)連一(yi)(yi)峰(feng),山(shan)(shan)(shan)山(shan)(shan)(shan)俱(ju)青(qing),峰(feng)峰(feng)皆秀。“錦峰(feng)繡(xiu)嶺”,果然(ran)名不虛(xu)傳(chuan)。俯視(shi)腳下(xia)(xia),一(yi)(yi)條清(qing)江,依山(shan)(shan)(shan)而流;萬頃(qing)碧波,風平浪靜(jing);幾點白帆(fan),飄(piao)蕩(dang)其(qi)間。黃(huang)公(gong)望的(de)杰作《富春山(shan)(shan)(shan)居圖》將此情此景(jing)描繪得恰到好處(chu)。雖然(ran)時(shi)隔七百年,眼下(xia)(xia)的(de)清(qing)江已非昔日的(de)急流,但是,風景(jing)、意(yi)境(jing)依然(ran)未變。“人在畫(hua)圖中(zhong)”,古人言之有理(li)。