簡介
富(fu)(fu)春(chun)江(jiang)國家(jia)水利風景區位于錢塘江(jiang)上游。自從東漢初年嚴子陵隱居于此以(yi)后,這一帶真是(shi)“人(ren)杰(jie)地靈”,出(chu)了不少文(wen)學家(jia)、詩人(ren)、畫家(jia)、英雄豪杰(jie)。悠悠兩(liang)千年,稱頌(song)富(fu)(fu)春(chun)山水和嚴子陵的詩詞歌賦(fu)、文(wen)章圖畫,汗牛充棟。到了元朝(chao),李(li)桓名(ming)詩《富(fu)(fu)春(chun)舟中》,劈頭(tou)兩(liang)句便(bian)是(shi)“天下佳山水,古(gu)(gu)今推富(fu)(fu)春(chun)”,這是(shi)古(gu)(gu)人(ren)對富(fu)(fu)春(chun)江(jiang)的贊譽。“不是(shi)漓江(jiang),勝似漓江(jiang)”,這是(shi)今人(ren)對富(fu)(fu)春(chun)江(jiang)的評價,人(ren)們還把它與(yu)長江(jiang)三峽、桂林漓江(jiang)并稱為我(wo)國最著名(ming)的三條(tiao)江(jiang)河風光(guang)游覽線。
富春(chun)江(jiang)景(jing)區(qu)以奇(qi)山(shan)異水(shui)聞(wen)名(ming)。其(qi)中(zhong)(zhong),申(shen)屠(tu)(tu)(tu)山(shan)和(he)天(tian)子(zi)崗可(ke)謂奇(qi)山(shan)了。申(shen)屠(tu)(tu)(tu)山(shan)屬(shu)富陽市(shi),在(zai)富春(chun)江(jiang)南岸,離東梓只有三公里(li)左右(you)。宋朝人陳剛(gang)中(zhong)(zhong)有《申(shen)屠(tu)(tu)(tu)山(shan)記》一(yi)篇,說這個山(shan)“峰巒重復,端若拱揖,應接不(bu)(bu)暇。湍水(shui)怪石,神(shen)刻鬼劃,千巧萬狀。中(zhong)(zhong)有平田(tian),如(ru)設(she)萬席。挺(ting)然僧寺,出(chu)于林表。佳木修竹,左右(you)交翠。此(ci)申(shen)屠(tu)(tu)(tu)剛(gang)違新室(王莽篡(cuan)漢,改國號(hao)為(wei)新)之(zhi)禍,申(shen)屠(tu)(tu)(tu)蟠(pan)晦黨錮之(zhi)名(ming),避(bi)地結廬(lu),于今千載,子(zi)孫因(yin)家焉(yan)。支派(pai)分衍,至(zhi)百余室。因(yin)姓(xing)而名(ming)其(qi)山(shan),山(shan)之(zhi)陽復以申(shen)屠(tu)(tu)(tu)志其(qi)地。”原來(lai)山(shan)上有一(yi)古廟名(ming)大(da)雄寺,建于唐長(chang)興(xing)三年。唐末有一(yi)高僧禪(chan)月(yue)尊者,曾(ceng)在(zai)寺內(nei)畫(hua)十(shi)六(liu)(liu)羅漢(羅漢系印度傳入,本來(lai)只有十(shi)六(liu)(liu),宋時(shi)有人添加了兩個,從此(ci)變成十(shi)八(ba)),栩(xu)栩(xu)如(ru)生。據傳第十(shi)六(liu)(liu)尊,還是照(zhao)著他(ta)(ta)(ta)自(zi)己的(de)(de)相(xiang)貌畫(hua)的(de)(de)。這位高僧不(bu)(bu)僅善畫(hua),而且工詩(shi)。剛(gang)到(dao)杭(hang)州(zhou),住(zhu)在(zai)給事中(zhong)(zhong)羅隱家里(li),作詩(shi)甚(shen)多,中(zhong)(zhong)有名(ming)句(ju)“一(yi)瓶(ping)一(yi)缽垂垂老(lao),千水(shui)千山(shan)得(de)得(de)來(lai)”。羅甚(shen)為(wei)贊賞,推薦給吳越(yue)王錢(qian)(qian)(qian)镠。錢(qian)(qian)(qian)镠見其(qi)所獻(xian)詩(shi)中(zhong)(zhong)有句(ju)“一(yi)劍寒霜十(shi)四州(zhou)”,就命人請(qing)他(ta)(ta)(ta)把“十(shi)四州(zhou)”改成“四十(shi)州(zhou)”。因(yin)為(wei)當時(shi)唐室凌替,群雄并(bing)起,錢(qian)(qian)(qian)镠在(zai)占領吳越(yue)十(shi)四州(zhou)之(zhi)后,想(xiang)南取(qu)王審知的(de)(de)福州(zhou),北取(qu)楊行密的(de)(de)揚(yang)州(zhou),拓“十(shi)四州(zhou)”為(wei)“四十(shi)州(zhou)”。原本以為(wei)自(zi)己貴為(wei)王侯(hou),叫一(yi)個討飯和(he)尚(shang)改一(yi)句(ju)詩(shi),自(zi)不(bu)(bu)在(zai)話下。哪里(li)知道這位禪(chan)月(yue)和(he)尚(shang),偏偏不(bu)(bu)買他(ta)(ta)(ta)的(de)(de)賬,答道:“州(zhou)亦(yi)不(bu)(bu)可(ke)添,詩(shi)亦(yi)不(bu)(bu)可(ke)改。孤(gu)云野(ye)鶴,何天(tian)不(bu)(bu)可(ke)飛(fei)?”說完(wan)拿了錫杖,離開杭(hang)州(zhou),就到(dao)此(ci)山(shan),在(zai)大(da)雄寺內(nei)留(liu)下真跡。
天子(zi)(zi)崗一(yi)名(ming)白鶴峰。因(yin)山(shan)(shan)石皆烏色,奇形怪狀(zhuang),又(you)名(ming)烏石山(shan)(shan),離東梓(zi)關五公里左右(you),同申屠山(shan)(shan)遙遙相對(dui)。這座山(shan)(shan)原本(ben)沒有(you)(you)(you)什么大名(ming)氣(qi),后來東漢孝(xiao)子(zi)(zi)孫(sun)鐘把(ba)母親葬在(zai)這里。孫(sun)鐘者,孫(sun)堅的(de)爸爸,孫(sun)策、孫(sun)權的(de)爺爺也。因(yin)為孫(sun)子(zi)(zi)做了皇帝,有(you)(you)(you)人(ren)(ren)就(jiu)說祖母葬的(de)地方(fang)風(feng)水(shui)好,所以就(jiu)稱(cheng)之為天子(zi)(zi)崗了。妙就(jiu)妙在(zai)這座山(shan)(shan)是這一(yi)帶的(de)最(zui)高峰,頂上(shang)有(you)(you)(you)一(yi)塊大平地。站在(zai)崗上(shang)近(jin)覷(qu):群山(shan)(shan)環繞(rao)腳下,有(you)(you)(you)似百官朝天子(zi)(zi),倒有(you)(you)(you)點“碧眼兒(er)坐(zuo)領江(jiang)東”的(de)氣(qi)概;遠(yuan)眺:江(jiang)水(shui)曲曲彎彎,大桐洲(zhou)上(shang)綠(lv)樹(shu)(shu)環繞(rao),桃花盛開(kai)季節,堆(dui)錦疊繡,五彩繽(bin)紛,使人(ren)(ren)眼花繚亂。環山(shan)(shan)四周(zhou),有(you)(you)(you)大批名(ming)勝古(gu)跡,如小蓬萊、仙(xian)人(ren)(ren)洞、百步山(shan)(shan)、樂村(cun)廟、天香(xiang)寺等數十處,不(bu)知道目前怎樣了。桐廬江(jiang)景,自(zi)古(gu)稱(cheng)道煙雨。每當(dang)細雨霏(fei)霏(fei)的(de)時候,坐(zuo)船在(zai)江(jiang)面(mian)上(shang)駛過(guo),近(jin)覷(qu),水(shui)面(mian)漣漪回環不(bu)絕(jue),山(shan)(shan)影樹(shu)(shu)影連(lian)成一(yi)片(pian),無風(feng)自(zi)搖;遠(yuan)看,“綠(lv)樹(shu)(shu)蒼煙望欲迷”,但見遠(yuan)山(shan)(shan)長,云山(shan)(shan)亂,近(jin)山(shan)(shan)青。加之岸邊幾個釣客身披雨衣,執(zhi)竿凝神而坐(zuo),儼(yan)然一(yi)幅(fu)絕(jue)妙的(de)“春江(jiang)煙雨圖”。江(jiang)岸上(shang)峭壁高聳(song),群山(shan)(shan)連(lian)綿不(bu)絕(jue):牛(niu)山(shan)(shan),又(you)名(ming)牌(pai)門山(shan)(shan),從東到西,恰巧十里,所以又(you)稱(cheng)十里牌(pai)門;內逼山(shan)(shan),外瞰江(jiang),山(shan)(shan)路崎嶇屈(qu)曲,古(gu)為閩廣皖浙通道,現在(zai)已經(jing)修鳥道為公路。金(jin)(jin)雞山(shan)(shan),極(ji)似公雞,古(gu)人(ren)(ren)有(you)(you)(you)詩:“天上(shang)金(jin)(jin)雞種,何時墜此山(shan)(shan)?只因(yin)鳴有(you)(you)(you)信,流落在(zai)人(ren)(ren)間。”
過了十里牌門,可見富(fu)(fu)春(chun)(chun)江水(shui)(shui)電站大(da)(da)壩(ba)(ba)(ba)橫截在(zai)(zai)江面上(shang)(shang),此(ci)壩(ba)(ba)(ba)高36米,是新安江大(da)(da)壩(ba)(ba)(ba)的(de)(de)三(san)分之一(yi)多點(dian)。壩(ba)(ba)(ba)內壩(ba)(ba)(ba)外,水(shui)(shui)位相差二三(san)十米。船過大(da)(da)壩(ba)(ba)(ba),先(xian)要進入壩(ba)(ba)(ba)內船塢,然后關上(shang)(shang)后閘門放水(shui)(shui),等(deng)水(shui)(shui)漲船高,與壩(ba)(ba)(ba)內水(shui)(shui)庫(ku)水(shui)(shui)面平(ping)齊,前閘門才徐(xu)徐(xu)落(luo)入水(shui)(shui)中,船即穿(chuan)閘門駛入富(fu)(fu)春(chun)(chun)江水(shui)(shui)庫(ku)。穿(chuan)壩(ba)(ba)(ba)而(er)出(chu),便進入一(yi)個(ge)“神仙世(shi)(shi)界”:富(fu)(fu)春(chun)(chun)江最主要的(de)(de)風(feng)景區——嚴(yan)子陵(ling)釣臺。這里原名嚴(yan)瀨。上(shang)(shang)世(shi)(shi)紀(ji)60年(nian)代(dai),利用兩(liang)山夾峙的(de)(de)自然條件,建設(she)富(fu)(fu)春(chun)(chun)江水(shui)(shui)電站,修(xiu)了一(yi)個(ge)水(shui)(shui)庫(ku),灘深流急的(de)(de)嚴(yan)瀨,便成了一(yi)個(ge)波平(ping)如鏡的(de)(de)人工(gong)湖。船就停在(zai)(zai)離水(shui)(shui)壩(ba)(ba)(ba)一(yi)里多路的(de)(de)地方。原來沿江有(you)一(yi)條小(xiao)路直(zhi)通(tong)釣臺,修(xiu)了水(shui)(shui)庫(ku),路已淹沒,去釣臺必須坐(zuo)蘆(lu)茨公社的(de)(de)渡船,在(zai)(zai)水(shui)(shui)庫(ku)上(shang)(shang)行(xing)三(san)四里,方到達釣臺腳(jiao)下(xia)。
所謂釣(diao)臺(tai),其實是(shi)(shi)(shi)突出富春山腰的兩(liang)(liang)塊大磐石(shi),高(gao)度相仿,東(dong)(dong)西(xi)(xi)對峙,天(tian)造地(di)設(she),確是(shi)(shi)(shi)天(tian)下(xia)少見(jian)。富春山一(yi)名嚴陵(ling)山,在(zai)桐廬縣城西(xi)(xi)四十(shi)里(li)。山高(gao)193米,迤邐(li)七里(li)。《圖(tu)經》上(shang)說:“嚴陵(ling)山清(qing)麗奇絕,號錦峰(feng)繡(xiu)嶺。”凡是(shi)(shi)(shi)到過此地(di)的人,都(dou)認(ren)為(wei)這(zhe)八個(ge)字(zi)并(bing)非過譽。連接(jie)東(dong)(dong)西(xi)(xi)兩(liang)(liang)臺(tai)的一(yi)條山脊上(shang),中間(jian)(jian)有一(yi)石(shi)亭(ting)(ting)(ting),用(yong)七八十(shi)塊條石(shi)砌嵌而成,不用(yong)一(yi)根木料,也不用(yong)一(yi)點水(shui)泥。長方形,面積約二十(shi)平方,式樣樸素大方。這(zhe)就(jiu)是(shi)(shi)(shi)過去的雙清(qing)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)。據了(le)解(jie),東(dong)(dong)西(xi)(xi)釣(diao)臺(tai)上(shang)面原來都(dou)沒有建筑(zhu)。一(yi)直(zhi)到明朝正統元年(nian)(nian)(nian)(1436年(nian)(nian)(nian)),嚴州知府(fu)在(zai)東(dong)(dong)西(xi)(xi)兩(liang)(liang)臺(tai)各建一(yi)亭(ting)(ting)(ting),刻石(shi)為(wei)額,東(dong)(dong)曰“不事王侯”,西(xi)(xi)曰“高(gao)尚其志”,明末被(bei)毀。到清(qing)乾隆十(shi)九年(nian)(nian)(nian)(1754年(nian)(nian)(nian)),再由羅氏兄弟復建。西(xi)(xi)臺(tai)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)上(shang)石(shi)額改為(wei)“留絲一(yi)鼎”,東(dong)(dong)臺(tai)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)上(shang)石(shi)額改為(wei)“垂竿百尺”。后來,西(xi)(xi)臺(tai)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)又(you)壞掉,到民國初年(nian)(nian)(nian)再重建。除這(zhe)兩(liang)(liang)個(ge)石(shi)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)外,1925年(nian)(nian)(nian)廣東(dong)(dong)人陳(chen)煥之(zhi)又(you)在(zai)這(zhe)個(ge)山脊上(shang)建了(le)這(zhe)個(ge)雙清(qing)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)。現(xian)在(zai)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)上(shang)石(shi)額已被(bei)砸毀。左右石(shi)柱上(shang)的對聯,字(zi)跡約略可辨:“遠道息塵(chen)勞,向(xiang)此間(jian)(jian)坐石(shi)看云,放懷宇宙;高(gao)臺(tai)瞻勝(sheng)跡,羨(xian)當日(ri)耕(geng)山釣(diao)水(shui),俯視王侯。”
極目遠望東南(nan),這一帶(dai)的最高(gao)(gao)峰(feng)高(gao)(gao)龍門直沖(chong)云霄,峰(feng)頸白云繚繞;峰(feng)前(qian)峰(feng)左峰(feng)右(you),群(qun)山環抱;最多(duo)的地(di)方(fang),有(you)六(liu)重(zhong)山,層層相疊。遠處天(tian)(tian)邊,白云破處,一抹藍(lan)天(tian)(tian),晶瑩澄(cheng)澈,似藍(lan)非(fei)藍(lan),似青(qing)非(fei)青(qing)。夕陽返照,光怪陸離,遠遠望去,似有(you)仙子乘鸞來去。正南(nan),山坡上遍種橘樹。迤西,也是一山接一山,一峰(feng)連一峰(feng),山山俱青(qing),峰(feng)峰(feng)皆秀。“錦峰(feng)繡嶺”,果然名不虛(xu)傳(chuan)。俯視腳下,一條清(qing)江,依山而流(liu);萬頃(qing)碧(bi)波(bo),風平浪靜;幾(ji)點白帆,飄(piao)蕩其(qi)間。黃公(gong)望的杰作《富(fu)春山居圖(tu)》將此(ci)情此(ci)景(jing)描繪(hui)得(de)恰到(dao)好(hao)處。雖然時隔七百年(nian),眼下的清(qing)江已非(fei)昔(xi)日的急流(liu),但是,風景(jing)、意境依然未變。“人在畫(hua)圖(tu)中”,古人言之有(you)理。