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基本介紹

“潔白似銀(yin)美亦(yi)香(xiang)，纖細如絲意悠長(chang)”，這是人們對常山(shan)(shan)當地傳(chuan)統(tong)名(ming)產——常山(shan)(shan)貢面(mian)的形(xing)象(xiang)概(gai)括。千百(bai)年(nian)來，常山(shan)(shan)貢面(mian)以其(qi)獨特的“色(se)、形(xing)、香(xiang)、味”深受廣大消(xiao)費(fei)者(zhe)喜愛(ai)。

常山(shan)貢面(mian)又名常山(shan)索面(mian)、銀絲貢面(mian)，是一種以面(mian)粉摻(chan)以山(shan)茶油，配(pei)加鹽水調和拉制晾干而成的手工(gong)面(mian)。

制作方法

經過長期的加工(gong)實踐，常山(shan)貢面(mian)形(xing)成了一整套(tao)獨(du)特而復雜講究(jiu)的手(shou)工(gong)制作工(gong)藝(yi)。

貢(gong)(gong)面(mian)(mian)(mian)制作(zuo)(zuo)用(yong)料講(jiang)究，工藝精細。常山(shan)(shan)地處(chu)錢塘(tang)江上(shang)(shang)游(you)的(de)山(shan)(shan)區半山(shan)(shan)區，水(shui)源清潔(jie)甘冽(lie)，農村歷來盛產山(shan)(shan)地小麥、山(shan)(shan)地蕃(fan)薯和山(shan)(shan)茶油，這都為貢(gong)(gong)面(mian)(mian)(mian)制作(zuo)(zuo)提供了原料。為了確保貢(gong)(gong)面(mian)(mian)(mian)細白柔韌、營(ying)養豐富，作(zuo)(zuo)坊一(yi)般都用(yong)上(shang)(shang)等山(shan)(shan)地麥子磨成(cheng)的(de)上(shang)(shang)好面(mian)(mian)(mian)粉作(zuo)(zuo)為主原料，同時糅合常山(shan)(shan)農特(te)產——山(shan)(shan)茶油，具有清爽香醇、久煮不(bu)爛的(de)特(te)點。在工藝流程上(shang)(shang)，共有和面(mian)(mian)(mian)、醒(xing)面(mian)(mian)(mian)、壓(ya)片、切條、打條、上(shang)(shang)筷、上(shang)(shang)架、拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)、曬(shai)面(mian)(mian)(mian)、盤面(mian)(mian)(mian)等10多道(dao)工序。每(mei)道(dao)工序必須一(yi)絲不(bu)茍，精工細作(zuo)(zuo)，方能做出(chu)潔(jie)白似銀、細勻如絲的(de)上(shang)(shang)佳貢(gong)(gong)面(mian)(mian)(mian)。

貢面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)制作(zuo)的(de)(de)第(di)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)道(dao)工(gong)序是(shi)和(he)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。取(qu)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)定(ding)量(liang)的(de)(de)優質面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉(fen)(fen)，逐步(bu)倒入(ru)(ru)預先配(pei)好的(de)(de)食(shi)鹽水溶液，手工(gong)攪拌(ban)揉和(he)1小時(shi)(shi)左(zuo)(zuo)右(you)(you)，形成(cheng)(cheng)吸(xi)水均勻(yun)(yun)的(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)團，面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉(fen)(fen)、水、食(shi)鹽比例(li)為(wei)25:15:2左(zuo)(zuo)右(you)(you)，具體比例(li)隨(sui)氣溫(wen)及(ji)空氣濕度(du)(du)高(gao)低而(er)適(shi)當(dang)變化；面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)團揉好后(hou)，靜(jing)置(zhi)于案板，加蓋干凈濕潤的(de)(de)紗布進(jin)(jin)(jin)行(xing)(xing)醒面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，時(shi)(shi)間20－30分鐘，促使面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)團發酵成(cheng)(cheng)熟(shu)，更具韌性和(he)彈(dan)性；壓片和(he)開(kai)條(tiao)即把面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)團壓制成(cheng)(cheng)厚度(du)(du)約(yue)(yue)2厘米左(zuo)(zuo)右(you)(you)的(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)片，并(bing)涂抹適(shi)量(liang)山茶(cha)油，然后(hou)將(jiang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)片切(qie)成(cheng)(cheng)寬約(yue)(yue)3厘米的(de)(de)長條(tiao)，進(jin)(jin)(jin)行(xing)(xing)第(di)二次(ci)(ci)靜(jing)置(zhi)醒面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)；打條(tiao)是(shi)指以蕃薯（米）粉(fen)(fen)作(zuo)粉(fen)(fen)撲，將(jiang)熟(shu)化的(de)(de)長條(tiao)打細(xi)(xi)(xi)打勻(yun)(yun)，連(lian)接制成(cheng)(cheng)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)條(tiao)直徑約(yue)(yue)6毫米的(de)(de)細(xi)(xi)(xi)長面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)，這是(shi)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)個至關(guan)重(zhong)要的(de)(de)環節，既要保證細(xi)(xi)(xi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)均勻(yun)(yun)如一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)，又要保證細(xi)(xi)(xi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)不(bu)粘(zhan)、不(bu)斷，技術功底高(gao)低由此(ci)可(ke)見一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)斑(ban)，細(xi)(xi)(xi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)打好后(hou)，進(jin)(jin)(jin)行(xing)(xing)第(di)三次(ci)(ci)靜(jing)置(zhi)醒面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)；上(shang)(shang)(shang)筷(kuai)的(de)(de)時(shi)(shi)候，把細(xi)(xi)(xi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)圈一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)圈地卷到兩根(gen)筷(kuai)子(zi)(zi)(zi)上(shang)(shang)(shang)，一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)般(ban)每筷(kuai)32－40卷，然后(hou)放入(ru)(ru)醒面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)箱，進(jin)(jin)(jin)行(xing)(xing)第(di)四次(ci)(ci)靜(jing)置(zhi)醒面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，時(shi)(shi)間3小時(shi)(shi)左(zuo)(zuo)右(you)(you)；接下(xia)來是(shi)上(shang)(shang)(shang)架(jia)、拉(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，將(jiang)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)根(gen)筷(kuai)子(zi)(zi)(zi)插入(ru)(ru)曬(shai)(shai)架(jia)上(shang)(shang)(shang)孔(kong)中(zhong)，拉(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)時(shi)(shi)5筷(kuai)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)拉(la)，分2－5次(ci)(ci)把面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)拉(la)細(xi)(xi)(xi)拉(la)長，并(bing)將(jiang)另一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)根(gen)筷(kuai)子(zi)(zi)(zi)插入(ru)(ru)曬(shai)(shai)架(jia)下(xia)孔(kong)，如何(he)做到細(xi)(xi)(xi)而(er)不(bu)斷，關(guan)鍵看(kan)手的(de)(de)勁(jing)道(dao)把握；曬(shai)(shai)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)時(shi)(shi)，絲絲縷縷、晶瑩剔透(tou)的(de)(de)貢面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)迎(ying)風飄蕩，簡直是(shi)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)幅(fu)妙不(bu)可(ke)言的(de)(de)藝術畫(hua)卷；曬(shai)(shai)至八九分干，就可(ke)進(jin)(jin)(jin)行(xing)(xing)盤面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，捋去筷(kuai)子(zi)(zi)(zi)上(shang)(shang)(shang)的(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)頭，用紅紙頭包(bao)扎成(cheng)(cheng)束(shu)，挽(wan)捆成(cheng)(cheng)8字型疊放在(zai)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)起，含有(you)人旺財發的(de)(de)美好祈愿。

貢(gong)面(mian)制作(zuo)環節繁(fan)瑣(suo)，技術嚴謹(jin)，全過(guo)程需(xu)要十八(ba)九個小(xiao)時，是一項(xiang)勞心費力的(de)手工藝。“辛(xin)苦(ku)不(bu)過(guo)貢(gong)面(mian)匠，半夜(ye)起來把天(tian)(tian)望(wang)”，是制面(mian)工人生(sheng)活的(de)真實(shi)寫照，起早摸黑是家常事，半夜(ye)觀察云(yun)頭(tou)風向、預測天(tian)(tian)氣，更是一門必修課(ke)。陰雨天(tian)(tian)制作(zuo)貢(gong)面(mian)容(rong)易(yi)受潮，風力過(guo)大(da)貢(gong)面(mian)容(rong)易(yi)折斷，太(tai)陽過(guo)烈(lie)貢(gong)面(mian)容(rong)易(yi)干(gan)裂，天(tian)(tian)氣突變(bian)則經(jing)常讓面(mian)粉完全報廢。

常山貢(gong)(gong)面之所以風(feng)味獨(du)特，除(chu)工藝精細外，與那些不(bu)成文的(de)傳統行規也是(shi)分不(bu)開的(de)，如所有主料和輔(fu)料必須是(shi)當(dang)地當(dang)時優(you)質的(de)，加(jia)工作坊和曬面場所必須保持十分清潔(jie)衛生，不(bu)得添(tian)加(jia)任何食(shi)品添(tian)加(jia)劑等等，真可謂“貢(gong)(gong)面長長情更長”。

食用須知

千百(bai)年(nian)的貢面加(jia)工(gong)制作歷史，形成了豐(feng)富的飲(yin)食風俗和飲(yin)食文化。

貢面的湯面先(xian)(xian)分(fen)后合，有效解(jie)決了眾口難調的問題，適(shi)應各地不同(tong)的口味和特點。一般來說，先(xian)(xian)備好(hao)肉湯（或(huo)雞湯）于碗(wan)內(nei)，佐以肉油或(huo)茶油、醬油、味精、姜蒜(suan)、辣椒、蔥(cong)花，待(dai)(dai)鍋水煮沸后放入貢面，待(dai)(dai)面條變軟(ruan)呈玉(yu)色，即可(ke)撈出盛入湯碗(wan)內(nei)，喜醋者加點香醋，然后調勻食用(yong)，滑(hua)爽(shuang)柔軟(ruan)，味道鮮美(mei)，富(fu)有營(ying)養，老弱(ruo)婦孺尤愛(ai)食用(yong)。據《常山縣志》載：“貢面用(yong)鹽水調和拉制晾干而成，吃時調以辣油、香蔥(cong)，有子鱉（氽(tun)雞蛋）、火(huo)腿作澆頭更佳。”

不(bu)(bu)同(tong)的(de)(de)場合吃(chi)貢(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，寓(yu)(yu)(yu)意(yi)(yi)各有不(bu)(bu)同(tong)。一(yi)(yi)般來說，逢年過節、重大傳(chuan)統節日時要(yao)(yao)(yao)吃(chi)貢(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，如正月初一(yi)(yi)早(zao)晨，家(jia)家(jia)戶戶每人(ren)(ren)都要(yao)(yao)(yao)吃(chi)上(shang)(shang)(shang)一(yi)(yi)碗貢(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，稱作(zuo)“新年面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”，寓(yu)(yu)(yu)意(yi)(yi)福(fu)(fu)氣(qi)長(chang)長(chang)，好運連連；男女老少做(zuo)生日壽誕時要(yao)(yao)(yao)吃(chi)貢(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，叫(jiao)“長(chang)壽面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”，第(di)一(yi)(yi)碗貢(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)給(gei)壽星(xing)先吃(chi)，寓(yu)(yu)(yu)意(yi)(yi)健(jian)康長(chang)壽，幸福(fu)(fu)圓滿；婚慶、喬遷時要(yao)(yao)(yao)吃(chi)貢(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，叫(jiao)“喜慶面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”，寓(yu)(yu)(yu)意(yi)(yi)喜氣(qi)滿屋，順心如意(yi)(yi)；新女婿第(di)一(yi)(yi)次上(shang)(shang)(shang)丈母娘(niang)家(jia)，也要(yao)(yao)(yao)吃(chi)貢(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，丈母娘(niang)會在貢(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)下掩藏四(si)個荷(he)包蛋(dan)，俗稱“子(zi)(zi)鱉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”，人(ren)(ren)們戲稱為“豬欄草(cao)鋪芋子(zi)(zi)”，寓(yu)(yu)(yu)意(yi)(yi)婚姻長(chang)長(chang)美(mei)美(mei)，早(zao)生貴(gui)子(zi)(zi)。后來，熱(re)(re)情好客(ke)的(de)(de)常山人(ren)(ren)將這種禮(li)遇(yu)加(jia)(jia)以延展，親(qin)朋好友一(yi)(yi)上(shang)(shang)(shang)門，總(zong)會端(duan)上(shang)(shang)(shang)一(yi)(yi)碗熱(re)(re)辣(la)辣(la)、油(you)汪汪的(de)(de)貢(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)加(jia)(jia)以款待。夾上(shang)(shang)(shang)一(yi)(yi)筷，猶(you)如水簾(lian)垂(chui)掛，絲(si)絲(si)清(qing)爽，淡淡清(qing)香撲鼻而來，令人(ren)(ren)垂(chui)涎欲滴(di)，入口時柔中帶韌，回(hui)味無窮(qiong)。不(bu)(bu)用說遠(yuan)方客(ke)人(ren)(ren)，在外游子(zi)(zi)聞之無不(bu)(bu)牽(qian)腸掛肚，思緒如面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)萬千(qian)縷。

從(cong)飲食營養角度看(kan)，貢面(mian)(mian)以(yi)(yi)上等(deng)面(mian)(mian)粉為(wei)(wei)主料，以(yi)(yi)山茶油、姜(jiang)末、蔥花等(deng)為(wei)(wei)佐料，屬(shu)于綠色健康食品，其烹調(diao)方法也(ye)大有講究，可以(yi)(yi)因人(ren)而(er)異，燒煮成(cheng)各(ge)種(zhong)各(ge)樣的(de)口味(wei)(wei)來(lai)。比如，用(yong)水氽雞蛋鋪底(di)，俗稱“子鱉面(mian)(mian)”，是待(dai)客的(de)佳點；以(yi)(yi)菠(bo)菜煮面(mian)(mian)，稱“菠(bo)菜面(mian)(mian)”，吃起來(lai)鮮嫩清口，滑而(er)不膩，是老年人(ren)的(de)最愛(ai)；用(yong)肉絲、筍絲（或韭菜）、豆(dou)干絲做澆頭(tou)(tou)，稱為(wei)(wei)“三絲貢面(mian)(mian)”，面(mian)(mian)鮮味(wei)(wei)濃，適合年青人(ren)口味(wei)(wei)；還有一(yi)種(zhong)“表傷風(feng)”面(mian)(mian)，即(ji)偶患風(feng)寒(han)，煮面(mian)(mian)時多加生姜(jiang)、蔥頭(tou)(tou)、干辣椒末，然后連(lian)湯(tang)帶面(mian)(mian)趁熱吃下，蓋上棉被蒙頭(tou)(tou)睡下，待(dai)悶(men)出(chu)汗來(lai)即(ji)神清氣(qi)爽，感(gan)冒(mao)全(quan)消。民間還有產婦吃貢面(mian)(mian)催乳、桔皮(pi)面(mian)(mian)開胃(wei)等(deng)烹調(diao)方法和習俗。