在美食(shi)之城臨泉,名吃(chi)可謂眾多,說起迎仙(xian)(xian)板(ban)(ban)雞,那可是讓人(ren)垂(chui)涎欲滴。迎仙(xian)(xian)板(ban)(ban)雞以(yi)其肉質細嫩、富有(you)嚼勁、清香宜(yi)人(ren)、色澤(ze)誘人(ren)、營養價值高等特(te)點而受到各(ge)界人(ren)士(shi)的(de)喜愛。迎仙(xian)(xian)板(ban)(ban)雞被評為臨泉首(shou)屆十(shi)大(da)菜肴,最(zui)近迎仙(xian)(xian)板(ban)(ban)雞又從街頭擺攤設點的(de)小(xiao)吃(chi)進入(ru)臨泉各(ge)大(da)酒店,投資幾十(shi)萬元的(de)臨泉迎仙(xian)(xian)板(ban)(ban)雞大(da)酒店也正式開張,開始(shi)邁(mai)上(shang)正規化(hua)、品牌化(hua)、規模化(hua)發展之路。
迎(ying)(ying)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)板(ban)(ban)雞起源(yuan)于(yu)臨(lin)(lin)泉縣人(ren)口(kou)大(da)鎮(zhen)迎(ying)(ying)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)鎮(zhen),該鎮(zhen)位于(yu)臨(lin)(lin)泉西南(nan),離(li)縣城20公(gong)里,和(he)(he)河南(nan)省新蔡縣接壤。迎(ying)(ying)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)鎮(zhen)總(zong)人(ren)口(kou)7萬多(duo)(duo)人(ren),耕地(di)(di)6.5萬畝(mu),當(dang)地(di)(di)盛產(chan)小(xiao)麥、紅薯、大(da)豆、芝麻等農作(zuo)(zuo)物。自古(gu)以來,迎(ying)(ying)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)人(ren)過著日出(chu)而作(zuo)(zuo)、日落而息的(de)(de)自給自足生(sheng)活。改(gai)革(ge)開放后,一(yi)些富有遠見的(de)(de)迎(ying)(ying)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)人(ren)開始(shi)走(zou)出(chu)家(jia)門,到沿海(hai)開放城市或務工(gong)或經(jing)商。也許(xu)因(yin)為(wei)(wei)和(he)(he)外省交界的(de)(de)原因(yin)吧(ba),迎(ying)(ying)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)民風(feng)彪(biao)悍(han),當(dang)地(di)(di)人(ren)性格耿(geng)直,容不得外人(ren)欺(qi)壓。迎(ying)(ying)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)文化底(di)蘊深厚,臨(lin)(lin)泉有名的(de)(de)迎(ying)(ying)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)馬戲(xi)團和(he)(he)飛燕馬戲(xi)團就誕生(sheng)于(yu)此,雜技藝人(ren)眾多(duo)(duo),享用“燕舞(wu)大(da)江(jiang)南(nan)北,仙(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)游長城內外”的(de)(de)美名。關于(yu)迎(ying)(ying)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian),還有一(yi)個(ge)美麗的(de)(de)傳說,據說這里曾有個(ge)道人(ren),在(zai)百姓遭(zao)瘟疫時送出(chu)大(da)量靈丹(dan)妙(miao)藥挽(wan)救了(le)(le)許(xu)多(duo)(duo)百姓的(de)(de)生(sheng)命,百姓紛紛前(qian)去迎(ying)(ying)接這個(ge)道士(shi),最初的(de)(de)這個(ge)小(xiao)集市就成了(le)(le)迎(ying)(ying)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)店,后來稱為(wei)(wei)迎(ying)(ying)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)。2007年8月臨(lin)(lin)泉發(fa)生(sheng)特大(da)洪澇災(zai)害,溫家(jia)寶(bao)總(zong)理、回良(liang)玉副總(zong)理親(qin)臨(lin)(lin)迎(ying)(ying)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)察看災(zai)情(qing),指導救災(zai)工(gong)作(zuo)(zuo),進(jin)一(yi)步激發(fa)了(le)(le)迎(ying)(ying)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)人(ren)建設家(jia)鄉(xiang)的(de)(de)豪情(qing)和(he)(he)勇氣。在(zai)迎(ying)(ying)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)這片富饒(rao)的(de)(de)土地(di)(di)上,迎(ying)(ying)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)人(ren)創造出(chu)眾多(duo)(duo)美食,如板(ban)(ban)雞、粉雞、馓子、鍋巴、麻葉(xie)、芝麻鹽等,迎(ying)(ying)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)板(ban)(ban)雞則是其中較出(chu)名的(de)(de)。
2009年,迎(ying)(ying)(ying)(ying)(ying)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)板(ban)(ban)(ban)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)迎(ying)(ying)(ying)(ying)(ying)來了(le)(le)新的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)發(fa)展(zhan),臨泉(quan)較大(da)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)餐(can)(can)飲(yin)連鎖(suo)店(dian)小(xiao)有(you)天餐(can)(can)飲(yin)公(gong)司投(tou)資五十(shi)多萬元在(zai)縣城創(chuang)辦了(le)(le)第(di)一(yi)(yi)家迎(ying)(ying)(ying)(ying)(ying)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)板(ban)(ban)(ban)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)大(da)酒(jiu)店(dian),以迎(ying)(ying)(ying)(ying)(ying)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)板(ban)(ban)(ban)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)為(wei)主打(da)菜(cai),向食(shi)(shi)客提供(gong)具(ju)有(you)臨泉(quan)本土特(te)色(se)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)菜(cai)肴。小(xiao)有(you)天餐(can)(can)飲(yin)公(gong)司有(you)六家大(da)型(xing)酒(jiu)店(dian),這些(xie)酒(jiu)店(dian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)興起全(quan)靠公(gong)司創(chuang)辦人郭俊偉。郭俊偉是臨泉(quan)單(dan)橋鎮人,離迎(ying)(ying)(ying)(ying)(ying)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)鎮不(bu)過二十(shi)多里地。郭俊偉十(shi)幾歲時(shi)就拜師學(xue)藝,成(cheng)為(wei)一(yi)(yi)名出色(se)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)廚師,對于(yu)臨泉(quan)名吃迎(ying)(ying)(ying)(ying)(ying)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)板(ban)(ban)(ban)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)有(you)著特(te)殊的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)感情。郭俊偉在(zai)縣城承包(bao)酒(jiu)店(dian)有(you)了(le)(le)穩定的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)發(fa)展(zhan)基(ji)礎后,及(ji)時(shi)出資注(zhu)冊了(le)(le)迎(ying)(ying)(ying)(ying)(ying)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)板(ban)(ban)(ban)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)商標(biao),開辦了(le)(le)第(di)一(yi)(yi)家迎(ying)(ying)(ying)(ying)(ying)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)板(ban)(ban)(ban)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)大(da)型(xing)酒(jiu)店(dian)。郭俊偉和店(dian)里的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)廚師對迎(ying)(ying)(ying)(ying)(ying)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)板(ban)(ban)(ban)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)加工工藝進行(xing)了(le)(le)改(gai)進,將(jiang)最(zui)初的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)烘烤環節改(gai)為(wei)在(zai)陽光(guang)下晾曬,使腌制(zhi)過的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)板(ban)(ban)(ban)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)自然風(feng)干,然后在(zai)食(shi)(shi)用前(qian)一(yi)(yi)段(duan)時(shi)間將(jiang)板(ban)(ban)(ban)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)進行(xing)浸泡和蒸煮,最(zui)后將(jiang)完全(quan)冷卻的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)板(ban)(ban)(ban)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)進行(xing)分割裝(zhuang)盤。這種板(ban)(ban)(ban)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)色(se)白如玉、肉質細(xi)嫩、鮮味十(shi)足,得到眾多食(shi)(shi)客的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)喜愛。在(zai)迎(ying)(ying)(ying)(ying)(ying)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)板(ban)(ban)(ban)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)大(da)酒(jiu)店(dian),與板(ban)(ban)(ban)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)一(yi)(yi)起裝(zhuang)盤的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)還有(you)經過精心(xin)加工的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)腸、雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)胗、雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)血、小(xiao)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)蛋等物(wu),這些(xie)配菜(cai)各有(you)風(feng)味,讓食(shi)(shi)客難以釋筷。如今,迎(ying)(ying)(ying)(ying)(ying)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)板(ban)(ban)(ban)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)大(da)酒(jiu)店(dian)生意異常火(huo)爆,得提前(qian)才能(neng)訂到房間,吃迎(ying)(ying)(ying)(ying)(ying)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)板(ban)(ban)(ban)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)已成(cheng)為(wei)臨泉(quan)人的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)種時(shi)尚。相信在(zai)迎(ying)(ying)(ying)(ying)(ying)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)板(ban)(ban)(ban)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)大(da)酒(jiu)店(dian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)帶動下,迎(ying)(ying)(ying)(ying)(ying)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)板(ban)(ban)(ban)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)一(yi)(yi)定會(hui)走出皖北,叫響大(da)江南北的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)。
迎(ying)(ying)仙(xian)板(ban)(ban)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)采(cai)用(yong)農(nong)家(jia)(jia)養殖(zhi)的(de)(de)土(tu)公雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji),宰殺干凈(jing)后(hou)(hou)放在(zai)(zai)(zai)由(you)食鹽、大(da)茴香(xiang)(xiang)、小(xiao)茴香(xiang)(xiang)、、丁香(xiang)(xiang)、生姜、黃酒(jiu)、蔥、白糖(tang)等材料(liao)配制(zhi)的(de)(de)腌制(zhi)液中進行兩次(ci)腌制(zhi),腌制(zhi)的(de)(de)整雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)再放入清水后(hou)(hou)進行漂(piao)洗(xi),漂(piao)洗(xi)后(hou)(hou)的(de)(de)整雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)經過整形和晾(liang)干后(hou)(hou)就(jiu)可以放入烘(hong)房慢慢烘(hong)熟(shu)了(le)(le),烘(hong)房溫度控制(zhi)在(zai)(zai)(zai)五六十度,經過幾(ji)個(ge)小(xiao)時的(de)(de)烘(hong)烤,就(jiu)成(cheng)了(le)(le)脆而不(bu)(bu)焦、硬而不(bu)(bu)柴、外觀(guan)呈金黃色的(de)(de)迎(ying)(ying)仙(xian)板(ban)(ban)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)。迎(ying)(ying)仙(xian)板(ban)(ban)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)以冷(leng)食較(jiao)佳,烘(hong)烤后(hou)(hou)的(de)(de)板(ban)(ban)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)完全(quan)冷(leng)卻后(hou)(hou)就(jiu)能(neng)用(yong)快刀片(pian)成(cheng)薄(bo)薄(bo)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)肉(rou)餅或切成(cheng)條狀的(de)(de)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)肉(rou)塊了(le)(le)。板(ban)(ban)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)裝盤上(shang)(shang)桌(zhuo),上(shang)(shang)面(mian)(mian)淋著(zhu)芝麻(ma)香(xiang)(xiang)油,一(yi)(yi)片(pian)片(pian)板(ban)(ban)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)猶如一(yi)(yi)朵朵盛開(kai)的(de)(de)花朵綻放在(zai)(zai)(zai)盤子(zi)里(li),麻(ma)油和雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)肉(rou)的(de)(de)清香(xiang)(xiang)無不(bu)(bu)挑逗著(zhu)人(ren)(ren)的(de)(de)食欲,食客(ke)(ke)無不(bu)(bu)爭先下筷去品嘗這(zhe)平(ping)時難得品嘗的(de)(de)美食。迎(ying)(ying)仙(xian)板(ban)(ban)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)的(de)(de)骨頭和雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)肉(rou)很(hen)容易分(fen)離,這(zhe)為食客(ke)(ke)省去了(le)(le)很(hen)多麻(ma)煩,老(lao)人(ren)(ren)和孩子(zi)完全(quan)可以食用(yong)。和板(ban)(ban)鴨(ya)名稱的(de)(de)來歷一(yi)(yi)樣,迎(ying)(ying)仙(xian)板(ban)(ban)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)由(you)于肉(rou)質較(jiao)硬,肉(rou)的(de)(de)紋(wen)理清晰,富(fu)有層次(ci),類(lei)似木板(ban)(ban)的(de)(de)紋(wen)理,故名板(ban)(ban)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)。在(zai)(zai)(zai)迎(ying)(ying)仙(xian)鎮(zhen)幾(ji)十戶板(ban)(ban)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)經營戶中,徐氏(shi)兄弟(di)(di)加工(gong)的(de)(de)板(ban)(ban)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)較(jiao)受人(ren)(ren)歡(huan)迎(ying)(ying),據說(shuo)他們加工(gong)板(ban)(ban)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)的(de)(de)手藝已傳了(le)(le)好幾(ji)代(dai),在(zai)(zai)(zai)配料(liao)、雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)的(de)(de)選用(yong)、腌制(zhi)、烘(hong)烤等方面(mian)(mian)都很(hen)講究(jiu)。幾(ji)年(nian)前,筆者和幾(ji)個(ge)食客(ke)(ke)專程來到徐氏(shi)兄弟(di)(di)的(de)(de)家(jia)(jia)中品嘗板(ban)(ban)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji),他兄弟(di)(di)二人(ren)(ren)主要在(zai)(zai)(zai)集鎮(zhen)上(shang)(shang)擺攤銷售板(ban)(ban)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji),很(hen)少(shao)在(zai)(zai)(zai)家(jia)(jia)中接待食客(ke)(ke),但也擋不(bu)(bu)住一(yi)(yi)些食客(ke)(ke)的(de)(de)腳步。在(zai)(zai)(zai)徐家(jia)(jia)的(de)(de)客(ke)(ke)廳內,一(yi)(yi)張(zhang)八(ba)仙(xian)桌(zhuo)、幾(ji)張(zhang)長凳、一(yi)(yi)大(da)盆板(ban)(ban)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)、幾(ji)斤老(lao)酒(jiu)就(jiu)能(neng)讓食客(ke)(ke)大(da)快朵頤、開(kai)懷暢飲(yin),忘記世間的(de)(de)紛紛攘攘。