山(shan)東煎(jian)餅(bing),傳統特色面(mian)食。源(yuan)于山(shan)東泰安(an)。現代煎(jian)餅(bing)制作方法的(de)創制年代難以(yi)考證(zheng),但(dan)“煎(jian)餅(bing)”一詞的(de)使(shi)用 山(shan)東煎(jian)餅(bing)可以(yi)追溯到很早以(yi)前(qian)。相傳孟(meng)姜女哭(ku)長城(cheng),所帶食物即煎(jian)餅(bing)。
清代蒲松齡《煎餅賦》:“溲含(han)米豆,磨(mo)如(ru)膠餳,扒須兩歧之勢,鏊為鼎足之形(xing),掬瓦盆之一勺(shao),經(jing)火烙而滂,乃急(ji)手(shou)而左旋(xuan),如(ru)磨(mo)上(shang)之蟻行,黃白忽變,斯(si)須而成,‘卒律(lv)葛答’,乘此熱鐺,一翻手(shou)而覆(fu)手(shou),作十百(bai)于(yu)俄頃,圓于(yu)望月,大(da)如(ru)銅錚,薄似(si)剡溪之紙(zhi),色如(ru)黃鶴(he)之翎,此煎餅之定制也。
山東煎(jian)(jian)餅,形(xing)似(si)荷葉,薄軟如紙,香氣撲鼻,味(wei)美適口。煎(jian)(jian)餅上(shang)攤上(shang)雞蛋,軟嫩(nen)鮮香,別有風味(wei)。天津也有煎(jian)(jian)餅果子,做法相似(si),但用的是(shi)綠豆面(mian),味(wei)道也很好。山東煎(jian)(jian)餅原料由五谷雜糧精細(xi)研磨而成,既不(bu)是(shi)純細(xi)糧,也不(bu)是(shi)純粗糧,營養豐富,便于人消化(hua),因(yin)為做煎(jian)(jian)餅的原料都帶皮殼(ke),含粗纖維(wei)多,對消化(hua)很有幫助,是(shi)城市居(ju)民(min)讓人擔憂健康狀況的一劑良方。
1、磨制面糊
把麥子(zi)(zi)、高梁、玉(yu)米、谷(gu)子(zi)(zi)、地(di)瓜(gua)干(gan)等原料(liao)(liao)淘洗、浸泡(pao)(pao),然后磨(mo)(mo)成(cheng)(cheng)糊(hu)(hu)狀物,俗稱(cheng)“煎餅糊(hu)(hu)子(zi)(zi)”。有(you)些地(di)方在(zai)磨(mo)(mo)制面(mian)(mian)糊(hu)(hu)前,兌入(ru)三分之一(yi)(yi)或一(yi)(yi)半(ban)的(de)(de)(de)(de)“熟料(liao)(liao)”(即(ji)先行煮到(dao)(dao)八九成(cheng)(cheng)熟的(de)(de)(de)(de)部分原料(liao)(liao)),俗稱(cheng)“對半(ban)子(zi)(zi)”,“對半(ban)子(zi)(zi)”后磨(mo)(mo)出(chu)來的(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)糊(hu)(hu)容易(yi)攤制,攤出(chu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)煎餅也柔軟(ruan)好吃。有(you)些地(di)方把地(di)瓜(gua)干(gan)在(zai)磨(mo)(mo)制成(cheng)(cheng)面(mian)(mian)后,要用(yong)(yong)(yong)水(shui)浸泡(pao)(pao),把地(di)瓜(gua)面(mian)(mian)里的(de)(de)(de)(de)黑(hei)水(shui)浸出(chu)。有(you)的(de)(de)(de)(de)用(yong)(yong)(yong)地(di)瓜(gua)干(gan)直(zhi)接浸泡(pao)(pao),這個細做可(ke)是(shi)(shi)麻煩之至(zhi)。地(di)瓜(gua)干(gan)要在(zai)水(shui)里泡(pao)(pao)一(yi)(yi)天(tian)左右,等到(dao)(dao)水(shui)分將其(qi)徹底(di)化后,就(jiu)(jiu)用(yong)(yong)(yong)刀將其(qi)剁碎。然后同泡(pao)(pao)好的(de)(de)(de)(de)玉(yu)米混(hun)在(zai)一(yi)(yi)起,在(zai)水(shui)磨(mo)(mo)上(shang)磨(mo)(mo)成(cheng)(cheng)糊(hu)(hu)。而這一(yi)(yi)過程很費時費力(li)。水(shui)磨(mo)(mo)為顆(ke)粒(li)粗大的(de)(de)(de)(de)圓型花崗巖磨(mo)(mo)盤(pan)(pan)制成(cheng)(cheng),有(you)上(shang)下兩(liang)塊疊在(zai)一(yi)(yi)起。盤(pan)(pan)的(de)(de)(de)(de)兩(liang)個接觸面(mian)(mian)上(shang)都鑿(zao)出(chu)了(le)條紋以(yi)增加研磨(mo)(mo)和排(pai)糊(hu)(hu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)能力(li)。上(shang)片(pian)磨(mo)(mo)片(pian)上(shang)開了(le)兩(liang)個小洞(dong),可(ke)以(yi)將料(liao)(liao)混(hun)著水(shui)一(yi)(yi)勺一(yi)(yi)勺的(de)(de)(de)(de)加入(ru)。推(tui)(tui)(tui)(tui)動(dong)上(shang)片(pian)磨(mo)(mo)盤(pan)(pan)就(jiu)(jiu)可(ke)以(yi)將料(liao)(liao)碾碎,從上(shang)下磨(mo)(mo)片(pian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)磨(mo)(mo)縫里流出(chu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)就(jiu)(jiu)是(shi)(shi)做煎餅用(yong)(yong)(yong)的(de)(de)(de)(de)煎餅糊(hu)(hu)。推(tui)(tui)(tui)(tui)磨(mo)(mo)可(ke)以(yi)用(yong)(yong)(yong)馬、牛或驢等牲口,那是(shi)(shi)在(zai)解放前的(de)(de)(de)(de)地(di)主(zhu)家才(cai)能用(yong)(yong)(yong),普通(tong)人(ren)(ren)家也只有(you)人(ren)(ren)推(tui)(tui)(tui)(tui)。小的(de)(de)(de)(de)磨(mo)(mo)盤(pan)(pan)一(yi)(yi)個人(ren)(ren)推(tui)(tui)(tui)(tui)就(jiu)(jiu)行。可(ke)大的(de)(de)(de)(de)磨(mo)(mo)要三四個人(ren)(ren)才(cai)能推(tui)(tui)(tui)(tui)動(dong)。普遍采用(yong)(yong)(yong)機磨(mo)(mo)。一(yi)(yi)般(ban)是(shi)(shi)頭(tou)天(tian)晚上(shang)磨(mo)(mo)制面(mian)(mian)糊(hu)(hu),第二(er)天(tian)一(yi)(yi)早開始(shi)架鏊子(zi)(zi)、生(sheng)火、攤煎餅。
2、架設鏊子
架設(she)鏊子的(de)過程可簡(jian)可繁。簡(jian)單的(de)架設(she)方法(fa)(fa)直(zhi)接(jie)用三塊磚把鏊子撐起(qi)來就(jiu)可;復雜的(de)做法(fa)(fa)是(shi)用硬泥糊(hu)成一個爐灶(zao),用風(feng)箱(xiang)鼓風(feng)。鏊子架設(she)好后即可生(sheng)火(huo)。農村(cun)一般采用玉米秸(jie)或麥(mai)秸(jie)作為柴禾。生(sheng)火(huo)與攤制(zhi)煎(jian)餅往往是(shi)兩個人合作。鏊子燒熱后,就(jiu)可以攤制(zhi)煎(jian)餅或滾制(zhi)煎(jian)餅了。
3、攤制煎餅
攤(tan)制(zhi)之(zhi)前(qian),往往先用(yong)(yong)油擦(ca)在鏊(ao)(ao)(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)上(shang)面(mian)擦(ca)一(yi)(yi)遍油,既去掉了(le)(le)鏊(ao)(ao)(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)上(shang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)雜物,也(ye)使(shi)(shi)得烙熟的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)容易(yi)(yi)與(yu)鏊(ao)(ao)(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)分離。當鏊(ao)(ao)(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)燒(shao)熱以(yi)(yi)后,可(ke)以(yi)(yi)用(yong)(yong)勺子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)舀上(shang)一(yi)(yi)勺煎(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)糊(hu)放到(dao)(dao)鏊(ao)(ao)(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)上(shang),用(yong)(yong)耙子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)沿(yan)著(zhu)鏊(ao)(ao)(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)攤(tan)一(yi)(yi)圈。由于(yu)(yu)鏊(ao)(ao)(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)是熱的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de),煎(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)糊(hu)所到(dao)(dao)之(zhi)處就迅速的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)被凝固(gu)(gu)一(yi)(yi)層(ceng),就是所謂的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)。沒有(you)凝固(gu)(gu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)就被竹劈子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(由于(yu)(yu)使(shi)(shi)用(yong)(yong)起(qi)來比較困難,年輕(qing)人學習(xi)不(bu)會,后來逐(zhu)漸被耙子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)所代替)帶(dai)著(zhu)向前(qian)走,重復這(zhe)一(yi)(yi)過(guo)程直到(dao)(dao)整個鏊(ao)(ao)(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)攤(tan)滿。耙子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)長(chang)短正好(hao)(hao)等于(yu)(yu)鏊(ao)(ao)(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)半(ban)徑,所以(yi)(yi)耙子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)繞場一(yi)(yi)周(zhou),煎(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)就成(cheng)。為了(le)(le)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)質量更好(hao)(hao),在上(shang)層(ceng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)糊(hu)還沒有(you)完全凝固(gu)(gu)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)熟之(zhi)前(qian),用(yong)(yong)一(yi)(yi)塊(kuai)木板(稱為刮(gua)(gua)批)在上(shang)面(mian)刮(gua)(gua)一(yi)(yi)下,可(ke)以(yi)(yi)使(shi)(shi)上(shang)面(mian)平整和厚度(du)均勻。因為煎(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)很薄(bo),很容易(yi)(yi)熟,這(zhe)一(yi)(yi)過(guo)要(yao)非(fei)(fei)常的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)快,也(ye)就是二三(san)十秒鐘(zhong),否(fou)則就會焦了(le)(le)。待成(cheng)熟以(yi)(yi)后,需要(yao)及時用(yong)(yong)鏟子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)沿(yan)鏊(ao)(ao)(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)邊沿(yan)把攤(tan)好(hao)(hao)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)搶起(qi)揭下。煎(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)大小以(yi)(yi)鏊(ao)(ao)(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)而定,直徑一(yi)(yi)般在半(ban)米到(dao)(dao)80厘米之(zhi)間。攤(tan)在鏊(ao)(ao)(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)上(shang)面(mian)糊(hu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)多少決定了(le)(le)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)厚度(du),水平高的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)人可(ke)以(yi)(yi)攤(tan)制(zhi)出非(fei)(fei)常薄(bo)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)來。攤(tan)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)非(fei)(fei)常講(jiang)究技術和火候(hou)。
滾(gun)制(zhi)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)“滾(gun)制(zhi)”一般是用來制(zhi)作(zuo)質地較(jiao)差(cha)的(de)(de)(de)(de)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing),大(da)部分(fen)是地瓜(gua)干或玉米為原料(liao)的(de)(de)(de)(de)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)。將面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)在(zai)(zai)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆內活(huo)成面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)團(tuan)(tuan)。鏊(ao)(ao)子(zi)燒熱(re)后(hou),雙(shuang)手抱面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)團(tuan)(tuan)在(zai)(zai)鏊(ao)(ao)子(zi)上(shang)(shang)均(jun)勻的(de)(de)(de)(de)滾(gun)動一圈,面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)就(jiu)在(zai)(zai)鏊(ao)(ao)子(zi)上(shang)(shang)留下(xia)(xia)薄薄一層面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)團(tuan)(tuan)的(de)(de)(de)(de)痕跡(ji),這層痕跡(ji)烙熟揭(jie)下(xia)(xia)就(jiu)是煎(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)了(le)。這樣(yang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)比較(jiao)厚(hou)(hou)。這種制(zhi)作(zuo)方法制(zhi)作(zuo)的(de)(de)(de)(de)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)比較(jiao)松散,不好控制(zhi)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)厚(hou)(hou)度。厚(hou)(hou)度跟面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉(fen)磨(mo)的(de)(de)(de)(de)粗細(xi)有(you)關,粗面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉(fen)相對就(jiu)厚(hou)(hou),細(xi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉(fen)就(jiu)薄。往往放到(dao)旁邊(bian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)蓋墊上(shang)(shang),然(ran)后(hou)一張張煎(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)摞(luo)起來。剛從鏊(ao)(ao)子(zi)上(shang)(shang)揭(jie)下(xia)(xia)的(de)(de)(de)(de)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)很柔(rou)軟,可(ke)以折疊成長方形(xing),放到(dao)甕里存放。晾涼后(hou)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)變得薄而脆,由于(yu)加熱(re)過程中出(chu)去(qu)了(le)大(da)量水分(fen),煎(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)可(ke)以在(zai)(zai)常溫下(xia)(xia)保存很長時間,在(zai)(zai)過去(qu)是出(chu)門遠行的(de)(de)(de)(de)必備食品。
1、.健脾養胃促進(jin)(jin)消(xiao)化.煎(jian)餅含豐富的(de)蛋(dan)白質,淀粉(fen),粗纖維,碳水化合物,胡蘿卜素,鈣,磷(lin),鐵,鉀及人(ren)體(ti)所(suo)需的(de)各種(zhong)氨(an)基酸,維生(sheng)素,做(zuo)煎(jian)餅的(de)原(yuan)料(liao)都帶皮殼,含粗纖維多,能夠清除體(ti)內垃圾,具備排(pai)毒(du)養顏(yan)的(de)功效,還能促進(jin)(jin)血液循(xun)環降(jiang)血脂,健脾養胃促進(jin)(jin)消(xiao)化,對吃膩了大魚(yu)大肉的(de)現(xian)代人(ren)來說,就是一種(zhong)健康食品。
2、.具有(you)增強牙(ya)(ya)齒咀嚼能(neng)力的作(zuo)用.因為煎(jian)餅的硬度和韌性都(dou)高于饅頭及其他主食(shi)品,長期食(shi)用煎(jian)餅,能(neng)夠鍛煉牙(ya)(ya)齒功能(neng)。
3、.美(mei)容。吃一塊煎餅(bing)整(zheng)個臉部(bu)肌(ji)肉(rou)都在動,但正是(shi)這樣能使臉部(bu)肌(ji)肉(rou)得到鍛煉(lian),有(you)(you)益(yi)于(yu)保持(chi)視(shi)覺、聽覺和嗅覺神經的健康(kang),減緩衰老(lao)增(zeng)(zeng)加(jia)面部(bu)血液循環,有(you)(you)利(li)于(yu)美(mei)容。食用(yong)煎餅(bing)需要較(jiao)長時間的咀嚼(jiao),因(yin)而可(ke)生津健胃,增(zeng)(zeng)進食欲,促(cu)進面部(bu)神經運(yun)動,有(you)(you)益(yi)于(yu)保持(chi)視(shi)覺、聽覺和嗅覺神經的健康(kang),減緩衰老(lao),不失為一種保健食品。