蘇(su)(su)(su)軾(shi)(shi)在宋(song)神宗元(yuan)豐(feng)年(nian)間(jian),被貶黃(huang)州。在這里,他除(chu)“赤(chi)(chi)壁之(zhi)(zhi)游(you)樂乎”外,也(ye)常(chang)去隔(ge)江相望的(de)(de)西(xi)山(shan)游(you)覽(lan)。一(yi)(yi)天,西(xi)山(shan)的(de)(de)靈泉寺和尚(shang)(shang)們(men)為(wei)款待(dai)這位峨(e)嵋名(ming)士(shi),特(te)地(di)(di)制作了一(yi)(yi)種油炸(zha)(zha)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing),請他吃(chi)。蘇(su)(su)(su)軾(shi)(shi)見此(ci)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)呈淡黃(huang)色,且玲瓏剔透,簡直(zhi)如象牙雕成似的(de)(de)。觀賞良久,然(ran)后(hou)才(cai)放(fang)進(jin)嘴(zui)里。香(xiang)(xiang)甜(tian)酥脆,口(kou)味(wei)(wei)極佳。連(lian)(lian)忙問和尚(shang)(shang)為(wei)何這般好吃(chi)?和尚(shang)(shang)答曰(yue):因寺內有(you)(you)四眼泉,泉水(shui)極佳,此(ci)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)是汲(ji)了四泉之(zhi)(zhi)水(shui)調制而成,所以(yi)(yi)好吃(chi)。東(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)坡(po)(po)(po)聽罷(ba),連(lian)(lian)連(lian)(lian)叫(jiao)絕,并(bing)要(yao)和尚(shang)(shang)取來(lai)文房四寶,當場對餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)揮毫,畫(hua)了一(yi)(yi)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing),并(bing)寫上“東(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)坡(po)(po)(po)居(ju)(ju)士(shi)”四字。畫(hua)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)與真餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)一(yi)(yi)模一(yi)(yi)樣。從此(ci),這餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)便被叫(jiao)作“東(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)坡(po)(po)(po)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)”了。由(you)于(yu)蘇(su)(su)(su)東(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)坡(po)(po)(po)也(ye)常(chang)去黃(huang)州赤(chi)(chi)壁附近的(de)(de)承(cheng)天寺、定惠院,東(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)坡(po)(po)(po)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)亦成為(wei)這一(yi)(yi)帶(dai)和尚(shang)(shang)道士(shi)的(de)(de)齋(zhai)品(pin)。到了明清(qing)時(shi)期(qi),東(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)坡(po)(po)(po)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)便傳(chuan)到社會上,成為(wei)黃(huang)州府的(de)(de)地(di)(di)方(fang)名(ming)產,一(yi)(yi)直(zhi)流傳(chuan)至今(jin)。東(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)坡(po)(po)(po)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)之(zhi)(zhi)名(ming)的(de)(de)由(you)來(lai),要(yao)從蘇(su)(su)(su)軾(shi)(shi)(蘇(su)(su)(su)東(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)坡(po)(po)(po))謫居(ju)(ju)黃(huang)州,常(chang)泛舟南度游(you)覽(lan)西(xi)山(shan),并(bing)寺僧(seng)(seng)交往甚(shen)密(mi)。寺僧(seng)(seng)用菩(pu)薩泉水(shui)合(he)面炸(zha)(zha)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)相待(dai)蘇(su)(su)(su)東(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)坡(po)(po)(po)后(hou),頓覺香(xiang)(xiang)甜(tian)酥脆,喜曰(yue):“爾(er)后(hou)復來(lai),仍(reng)以(yi)(yi)此(ci)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)餉吾為(wei)幸!”自(zi)此(ci),寺僧(seng)(seng)與邑人(ren)(ren)便以(yi)(yi)“東(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)坡(po)(po)(po)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)”命名(ming)。雅人(ren)(ren)佳點,流傳(chuan)至今(jin)。清(qing)同治三年(nian)(1864年(nian)),兩(liang)湖總督官文游(you)西(xi)山(shan)品(pin)茗嘗餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing),笑問寺僧(seng)(seng)“此(ci)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)何名(ming)”?寺僧(seng)(seng)對曰(yue)“東(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)坡(po)(po)(po)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)”。官文即興書聯:“門泊(bo)戰(zhan)船憶公瑾,吾來(lai)茶話續東(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)坡(po)(po)(po)”。北(bei)宋(song)元(yuan)豐(feng)三年(nian)(公元(yuan)1080年(nian))春,著名(ming)文學家蘇(su)(su)(su)軾(shi)(shi)(號東(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)坡(po)(po)(po))謫居(ju)(ju)黃(huang)州時(shi)與安國(guo)寺長老參(can)寥和尚(shang)(shang)結成莫逆之(zhi)(zhi)交。參(can)寥和尚(shang)(shang)得悉蘇(su)(su)(su)軾(shi)(shi)喜吃(chi)油炙(zhi)酥爽的(de)(de)食(shi)品(pin),于(yu)是制油酥餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)以(yi)(yi)待(dai)蘇(su)(su)(su)軾(shi)(shi)。該(gai)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)的(de)(de)作法是:先將面粉和好,再團圈抹油餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)牽成線繞成園餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)形,放(fang)在香(xiang)(xiang)油鍋中(zhong)(zhong)炸(zha)(zha)至枯萎。吃(chi)時(shi)灑(sa)上白糖,香(xiang)(xiang)甜(tian)可口(kou)。但此(ci)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)不(bu)能久存。后(hou)蘇(su)(su)(su)夫人(ren)(ren)設(she)計的(de)(de)“千層餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)”,酥脆香(xiang)(xiang)甜(tian),食(shi)而不(bu)膩,味(wei)(wei)道極美,易于(yu)久存,由(you)于(yu)人(ren)(ren)們(men)對蘇(su)(su)(su)軾(shi)(shi)的(de)(de)懷念,就稱此(ci)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)為(wei)“東(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)坡(po)(po)(po)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)”。西(xi)山(shan)古靈泉寺制做“東(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)坡(po)(po)(po)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)”,有(you)(you)著得天獨厚的(de)(de)自(zi)然(ran)條件。該(gai)寺有(you)(you)菩(pu)薩泉水(shui),清(qing)流味(wei)(wei)甘,富含人(ren)(ren)體必須的(de)(de)礦物(wu)質和微量元(yuan)素,用此(ci)泉水(shui)合(he)面制餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)可自(zi)然(ran)酥脆,不(bu)添(tian)香(xiang)(xiang)料而自(zi)有(you)(you)清(qing)香(xiang)(xiang),再加上寺僧(seng)(seng)在制做過程中(zhong)(zhong)繼承(cheng)了傳(chuan)統技藝,使“東(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)坡(po)(po)(po)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)”至今(jin)仍(reng)保留了蘇(su)(su)(su)東(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)坡(po)(po)(po)時(shi)代的(de)(de)特(te)色。黨和國(guo)家領導人(ren)(ren)董(dong)必武、李(li)先念、陳毅等曾先后(hou)到西(xi)山(shan)古靈泉寺品(pin)茗嘗餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)。20世紀50年(nian)代初,古靈泉寺方(fang)丈融廣(guang)法師請本寺素齋(zhai)烹調高手融和法師親(qin)制東(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)坡(po)(po)(po)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)一(yi)(yi)盒,奉獻給(gei)毛主席(xi),時(shi)中(zhong)(zhong)共中(zhong)(zhong)央辦公廳曾來(lai)函致謝。行銷北(bei)京、上海、廣(guang)州、武漢、黃(huang)石等全國(guo)各地(di)(di)。港、澳(ao)同胞和日本貴賓(bin)親(qin)來(lai)品(pin)嘗,贊不(bu)絕口(kou)。
鄂州(zhou)西(xi)山(shan),是(shi)孫(sun)權都鄂時登(deng)壇(tan)即位(wei)的地方,有勝景。西(xi)山(shan)古靈泉寺有嘉餅(bing)(bing),曰東(dong)(dong)(dong)坡餅(bing)(bing),是(shi)蘇東(dong)(dong)(dong)坡貶黃州(zhou)時常過江(jiang)求食之物,并(bing)因(yin)而(er)得名(ming)(ming)。西(xi)山(shan)勝景,東(dong)(dong)(dong)坡嘉餅(bing)(bing),久聞盛名(ming)(ming)。我(wo)們一(yi)面吃餅(bing)(bing),一(yi)面聽關于東(dong)(dong)(dong)坡餅(bing)(bing)的傳說。鄂州(zhou)古稱武昌(chang),據《方輿勝覽(lan)》載:“孫(sun)權都鄂,欲以武而(er)昌(chang),故名(ming)(ming)。”東(dong)(dong)(dong)吳以來(lai),西(xi)山(shan)成了(le)歷(li)代(dai)文(wen)人(ren)墨客登(deng)臨勝地。晉代(dai)陶(tao)侃,唐代(dai)元結,都曾在山(shan)上結廬讀書。
宋神宗(zong)元豐(feng)二年(公(gong)元1079年),由于統治集團(tuan)(tuan)內(nei)部傾軋,諫(jian)官李定等摘(zhai)出(chu)蘇(su)軾(shi)一些諷(feng)諭朝廷的(de)詩(shi)句,加以彈劾,蘇(su)軾(shi)因而被捕(bu)入獄,這便(bian)是有(you)名的(de)“烏臺詩(shi)案”。經過殘酷的(de)折磨(mo)后(hou),蘇(su)軾(shi)被貶為黃州團(tuan)(tuan)練副使。
黃州無(wu)名山(shan),而大(da)江(jiang)之南,武昌諸山(shan)陂陀蔓延,澗(jian)谷深(shen)密,中有浮圖精舍,依山(shan)臨壑,蕭然絕俗。于是,蘇(su)軾便如他在《武昌西(xi)山(shan)詩》中寫的那樣:“春江(jiang)淥(lu)漲葡萄醅,武昌官柳(liu)知誰載?憶從(cong)樊口載春酒,步上西(xi)山(shan)尋野(ye)梅……”
這(zhe)位名(ming)傾(qing)于世的(de)詩人來(lai)到(dao)西(xi)山古(gu)寺(si),受到(dao)寺(si)僧(seng)的(de)熱情歡迎,寺(si)僧(seng)以泉水烹茶,香油煎(jian)餅(bing)招待。東(dong)(dong)坡(po)食后,稱贊不(bu)已,喜曰:“爾后復來(lai),仍以此餅(bing)餉吾為幸!”蘇東(dong)(dong)坡(po)一生游歷(li)名(ming)川大川,遍(bian)嘗(chang)南北(bei)名(ming)饌(zhuan)佳肴,是一位知(zhi)味善品的(de)美食家(jia)。此餅(bing)得(de)他(ta)如此贊賞(shang),可見其(qi)風味確實不(bu)凡。
自(zi)宋以(yi)后,西(xi)山寺(si)僧(seng)常以(yi)此餅(bing)待客。清同治三年,大(da)(da)學(xue)士(shi)、欽差大(da)(da)臣(chen)、湖廣總督官(guan)文(wen)游覽(lan)西(xi)山靈泉(quan)寺(si),西(xi)山住(zhu)持宏儒法(fa)師(shi)以(yi)此餅(bing)敬奉官(guan)文(wen),官(guan)文(wen)食后大(da)(da)為贊許,問(wen)及(ji)此餅(bing)何名,答(da)曰(yue):“東(dong)坡餅(bing)。”官(guan)文(wen)隨即題詩云:“門泊戰船憶(yi)公瑾,我來茶(cha)話(hua)續東(dong)坡。”“東(dong)坡餅(bing)”由此名聲大(da)(da)震,并流傳(chuan)至今。
西山(shan)僧人(ren)說,東坡餅之所以獨特(te),是因(yin)為西山(shan)寺有菩薩(sa)(sa)泉(quan)。菩薩(sa)(sa)泉(quan)聚山(shan)川(chuan)之靈(ling)氣(qi),水(shui)色白(bai)而味甘(gan),清(qing)冽(lie)異常,又(you)名靈(ling)泉(quan)。用靈(ling)泉(quan)制餅,無(wu)需發酵,自(zi)然而酥(su)松,落口消融;不(bu)加香料,香芳清(qing)甜,回味雋永。以泉(quan)用之烹茶(cha),是為上品;取而冷飲,則可(ke)祛病(bing)強身。故蘇東坡寫詩贊曰:“送(song)行無(wu)酒亦無(wu)錢,勸爾一杯菩薩(sa)(sa)泉(quan)。何處(chu)低頭不(bu)見我(wo),四方同此(ci)水(shui)中天。”
西山(shan)山(shan)門(men)前,九曲(qu)亭上有東(dong)(dong)坡(po)先(xian)生寫的《西山(shan)詩》,文(wen)詞優美,意(yi)境幽(you)深。廣宴樓壁上,掛有東(dong)(dong)坡(po)先(xian)生畫(hua)的墨(mo)梅,鐵骨繁花(hua),清麗精(jing)神。東(dong)(dong)坡(po)餅(bing)和東(dong)(dong)坡(po)先(xian)生留在西山(shan)的珍貴墨(mo)寶,相(xiang)得益彰,一起千古傳播著東(dong)(dong)坡(po)先(xian)生的流風余澤。
文字興獄,無端羅織,以文廢人(ren),乃至焚書坑(keng)儒,這是我(wo)國封建社會延(yan)續數(shu)千年的(de)(de)陋規、痼疾。縱觀幾千年的(de)(de)中國文學史,幾乎沒(mei)有一個著名(ming)的(de)(de)濤(tao)人(ren)、文學家,不橫遭貶遷。對文人(ren)的(de)(de)迫害,如此(ci)酷烈(lie),如此(ci)普遍,真(zhen)是世所(suo)罕見。
然而(er),真(zhen)理的呼號并(bing)未(wei)泯滅,文學繼續(xu)繁衍,詩文窮而(er)愈工(gong)。蘇軾以(yi)文字獲罪遭貶,但并(bing)未(wei)因此擱筆。被譽為千(qian)古(gu)絕唱的《念奴嬌·赤(chi)壁懷古(gu)》,傳世(shi)名篇《前赤(chi)壁賦》、《后赤(chi)壁賦》,游(you)記散文《武昌九曲亭(ting)記》等,便(bian)是他這一時期的佳作。
西山嘉餅,以東(dong)坡名,這是人民對詩人一生坎坷遭遇的(de)同情,對詩人高潔風骨的(de)欽敬,以及對詩人文學上杰出成就的(de)景(jing)仰分不開的(de)。
關于“東坡(po)(po)餅(bing)(bing)”名稱的(de)(de)由來(lai),充(chong)滿了人(ren)文色彩。相傳蘇(su)(su)東坡(po)(po)被(bei)貶(bian)海(hai)南(nan)儋(dan)(dan)縣(現海(hai)南(nan)儋(dan)(dan)州)時,當地(di)有一位賣環(huan)(huan)餅(bing)(bing)的(de)(de)年邁守(shou)寡(gua)老嫗(yu),她的(de)(de)手(shou)藝(yi)好(hao),環(huan)(huan)餅(bing)(bing)質量高,可(ke)是因為(wei)店(dian)鋪偏(pian)僻,不(bu)為(wei)人(ren)知(zhi)生意一直不(bu)好(hao)。老嫗(yu)得(de)知(zhi)蘇(su)(su)東坡(po)(po)是著名文學家,就請他(ta)為(wei)店(dian)鋪作詩。蘇(su)(su)東坡(po)(po)憐憫她生活(huo)貧(pin)苦,環(huan)(huan)餅(bing)(bing)手(shou)藝(yi)又委實不(bu)錯,就揮(hui)筆(bi)寫(xie)下一首(shou)七絕(jue):“纖手(shou)搓來(lai)玉(yu)色勻,碧油煎出嫩黃深。夜來(lai)春睡知(zhi)輕(qing)重(zhong),壓扁佳人(ren)纏臂金。”寥寥數句,勾畫出環(huan)(huan)餅(bing)(bing)勻細(xi)、色艷、酥脆的(de)(de)特點(dian)和形似美人(ren)環(huan)(huan)釵(chai)的(de)(de)形象(xiang)。老嫗(yu)將此詩高懸門上,果然顧客盈門,生意興隆,后來(lai)當地(di)老百(bai)姓為(wei)紀念蘇(su)(su)東坡(po)(po),就名之以(yi)“東坡(po)(po)餅(bing)(bing)”,并在儋(dan)(dan)州流傳今。
“東坡餅(bing)”不(bu)但包含著奇特的飲食文(wen)化,還蘊藏(zang)著濃(nong)郁(yu)的鄉情文(wen)化,深受人們的喜愛。
1、將(jiang)雞蛋取蛋清,加清水(shui)500克(ke)(ke)及精鹽、蘇(su)打溶化后,倒入(ru)面(mian)粉,反復攄揉,至(zhi)面(mian)團(tuan)不沾(zhan)手,搓成條,揪成重150克(ke)(ke)的(de)面(mian)劑10個(ge),搓成圓坨,擺放(fang)到(dao)盛有芝麻油(100克(ke)(ke))的(de)瓷(ci)盤里,餳10分鐘。
2、案板(ban)上(shang)抹勻芝(zhi)麻油,取出餳(xing)好的面(mian)坨,在(zai)(zai)案板(ban)上(shang)按成(cheng)長(chang)方(fang)形薄面(mian)皮,從兩(liang)(liang)端(duan)向中(zhong)間卷成(cheng)雙筒(tong)狀,拉成(cheng)約一(yi)半長(chang)條,再側(ce)著(zhu)從兩(liang)(liang)端(duan)向中(zhong)間卷成(cheng)一(yi)個(ge)大(da)、一(yi)個(ge)小的圓(yuan)(yuan)餅,將大(da)圓(yuan)(yuan)餅放底層,小圓(yuan)(yuan)餅疊在(zai)(zai)上(shang)面(mian),復放在(zai)(zai)盛(sheng)芝(zhi)麻油的瓷盤里浸沒(mei),約餳(xing)5分鐘成(cheng)餅坯。
3、鍋(guo)(guo)置中火上,放(fang)入芝麻油燒到(dao)七成熱時(shi),將餅(bing)(bing)坯(pi)(pi)(pi)平放(fang)鍋(guo)(guo)里,邊(bian)(bian)炸邊(bian)(bian)用(yong)筷(kuai)子(zi)一夾(jia)一松(song)(song)(song)地使(shi)餅(bing)(bing)坯(pi)(pi)(pi)松(song)(song)(song)散(san),待餅(bing)(bing)坯(pi)(pi)(pi)炸至浮(fu)起時(shi),翻(fan)面再(zai)炸,邊(bian)(bian)炸邊(bian)(bian)用(yong)筷(kuai)子(zi)點動餅(bing)(bing)坯(pi)(pi)(pi)心,使(shi)餅(bing)(bing)炸至松(song)(song)(song)泡但不能散(san)開,呈金黃色時(shi),撈出瀝(li)去油,裝(zhuang)盤每(mei)餅(bing)(bing)撒上白(bai)糖(45克)即成。
取西山(shan)礦泉水1250毫升倒入(ru)面中(zhong),揉和(he)好(hao),搟(xian)成(cheng)(cheng)直徑(jing)(jing)為23厘(li)(li)米(mi)的(de)圓(yuan)(yuan)片(pian),上倒香油,用(yong)手抹勻,然(ran)后(hou)相對地由兩邊向中(zhong)間卷成(cheng)(cheng)如意形(xing)長筒,從中(zhong)間扯(che)斷,每卷成(cheng)(cheng)約39厘(li)(li)米(mi)長、54厘(li)(li)米(mi)寬的(de)長條,再抹上一(yi)(yi)層香油,從一(yi)(yi)端卷成(cheng)(cheng)圓(yuan)(yuan)筒,夾起,用(yong)手按一(yi)(yi)下,再搟(xian)成(cheng)(cheng)直徑(jing)(jing)為17厘(li)(li)米(mi)的(de)圓(yuan)(yuan)餅。將其放入(ru)油鍋(guo)中(zhong)炸至浮(fu)起,炸時(shi)用(yong)筷(kuai)子按動(dong),使餅酥裂開(kai)。炸好(hao)出鍋(guo)后(hou),撒(sa)上白糖即成(cheng)(cheng)。和(he)面時(shi)不用(yong)蘇(su)打,搟(xian)面皮時(shi)用(yong)力要勻,搟(xian)出的(de)面皮厚薄要相同。特點(dian):造型別致,色澤誘人,甜酥脆香,美味可口。
1.盆內放(fang)(fang)入精鹽、蘇打粉(fen)、雞蛋清,加清水500克攪(jiao)打均勻,徐徐倒(dao)入面(mian)(mian)粉(fen)反復(fu)揉拌,直到面(mian)(mian)團不(bu)粘手時取出,放(fang)(fang)在(zai)案板上搓(cuo)條,摘成重150克一個(ge)的面(mian)(mian)劑,搓(cuo)成圓團,擺放(fang)(fang)在(zai)盛少許(xu)芝麻油的瓷(ci)盤里(li)餳10分鐘即可。
2.案(an)(an)板上抹勻芝(zhi)(zhi)麻(ma)油,將餳(xing)好(hao)的面(mian)(mian)團取出,逐個在(zai)案(an)(an)板上按(an)成長方形的薄面(mian)(mian)皮,用雙手從面(mian)(mian)皮兩邊(bian)向中間卷成雙圓(yuan)(yuan)筒(tong)狀,再側著從兩端向中間卷成一(yi)個大、一(yi)個小(xiao)的圓(yuan)(yuan)餅。將大圓(yuan)(yuan)餅放在(zai)底層,小(xiao)圓(yuan)(yuan)餅疊在(zai)上面(mian)(mian),逐個做完后,復放在(zai)盛芝(zhi)(zhi)麻(ma)油的盤(pan)里浸(jin)沒,約餳(xing)5分鐘。
3.小鍋置中火上,放入(ru)芝麻(ma)油燒到七(qi)成熱時(shi)(shi),將餅(bing)(bing)(bing)平放在鍋里,一(yi)(yi)手(shou)拿鐵絲筑籬,一(yi)(yi)手(shou)拿筷子邊炸邊撥(bo)餅(bing)(bing)(bing),邊用(yong)(yong)竹筷一(yi)(yi)夾(jia)一(yi)(yi)松(song)地(di)使(shi)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)松(song)脆(cui),待餅(bing)(bing)(bing)炸到浮起時(shi)(shi),翻(fan)面再炸,邊炸邊用(yong)(yong)竹筷不斷地(di)點動(dong)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)心,使(shi)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)炸得松(song)泡不散呈金黃色時(shi)(shi),撈出瀝(li)油,盛盤,每個撒上少(shao)許白糖即(ji)成。