說(shuo)起來,這個“踅”字也是(shi)有一段故(gu)事的,“踅”字本(ben)身是(shi)個冷僻字,清代合(he)陽有人(ren)(ren)編了一本(ben)《土音(yin)(yin)雜字》,出于好(hao)心,找了一個古音(yin)(yin)又(you)讀“xué”的“頁(ye)(ye)”字來為(wei)“踅”字注音(yin)(yin)。但不(bu)想知(zhi)知(zhi)道(dao)這個古音(yin)(yin)的人(ren)(ren)實在太(tai)少了,結果弄(nong)巧成(cheng)拙,大家都按本(ben)音(yin)(yin)讀“yè”,而沒有人(ren)(ren)讀“踅xué”,外地人(ren)(ren)到合(he)陽更是(shi)按字讀音(yin)(yin),這樣一來,便把“踅面”弄(nong)成(cheng)“頁(ye)(ye)面”了,實在是(shi)一大誤會。
踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)原產地在(zai)(zai)(zai)合陽,相傳西漢高(gao)祖(zu)三年(nian)(nian)(nian),也(ye)就(jiu)是(shi)(shi)公元前(qian)204年(nian)(nian)(nian),淮陰候韓(han)信(xin)在(zai)(zai)(zai)合陽黃(huang)河邊(bian)的(de)(de)(de)夏陽渡(du)用(yong)(yong)木(mu)罌渡(du)軍活捉河東魏王豹,為(wei)了解(jie)決10萬大軍吃飯(fan)問題發明了踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),距今(jin)已有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)2200多(duo)年(nian)(nian)(nian)的(de)(de)(de)歷史。吃著(zhu)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),再想(xiang)想(xiang)這個關(guan)于踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)起(qi)源的(de)(de)(de)典故(gu),就(jiu)知道(dao)(dao)當年(nian)(nian)(nian)韓(han)信(xin)怎么發明出踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)作為(wei)行軍打(da)仗的(de)(de)(de)飯(fan)食。一(yi)(yi)(yi)是(shi)(shi)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)勁道(dao)(dao)。厚且筋(jin)大,吃在(zai)(zai)(zai)嘴里(li)耐(nai)嚼(jiao),咽(yan)在(zai)(zai)(zai)肚里(li)耐(nai)饑(ji)。二是(shi)(shi)味(wei)醇。吃踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)時除了鹽、味(wei)精等其(qi)它常用(yong)(yong)調料(liao)外,要拌以豬油(you)和辣子,所以吃起(qi)來油(you)香濃(nong)郁,辣味(wei)悠(you)長,兩(liang)者都能(neng)增(zeng)進(jin)食欲。三是(shi)(shi)方便。這與(yu)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)做(zuo)工有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)關(guan),我曾見過做(zuo)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)過程,先是(shi)(shi)和面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),在(zai)(zai)(zai)一(yi)(yi)(yi)個很大的(de)(de)(de)瓷(ci)盆里(li)倒(dao)進(jin)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉和適量水,用(yong)(yong)一(yi)(yi)(yi)根粗木(mu)棒順著(zhu)同一(yi)(yi)(yi)方向攪(jiao),攪(jiao)得稀稠(chou)勻當了,舀一(yi)(yi)(yi)勺(shao)子倒(dao)在(zai)(zai)(zai)一(yi)(yi)(yi)張直徑(jing)差不多(duo)有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)2尺多(duo)的(de)(de)(de)大鐵鏊中心,再用(yong)(yong)半(ban)(ban)月形(xing)的(de)(de)(de)木(mu)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)子從鏊心向四周一(yi)(yi)(yi)圈(quan)(quan)一(yi)(yi)(yi)圈(quan)(quan)旋(xuan)著(zhu)刮(gua)開攤平。據說踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)名子就(jiu)是(shi)(shi)由那(nei)個半(ban)(ban)月形(xing)的(de)(de)(de)木(mu)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)子而得的(de)(de)(de)。但街(jie)上(shang)也(ye)有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)把“踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”寫作“旋(xuan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”的(de)(de)(de),想(xiang)必(bi)也(ye)與(yu)一(yi)(yi)(yi)圈(quan)(quan)一(yi)(yi)(yi)圈(quan)(quan)地旋(xuan)著(zhu)刮(gua)攤有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)關(guan)。烙(luo)熟后一(yi)(yi)(yi)張張搭在(zai)(zai)(zai)外面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)涼冷,再切成(cheng)寬窄與(yu)薄厚相當的(de)(de)(de)條形(xing),碼得整整齊齊,這樣能(neng)保質(zhi)三、五天,吃時只需在(zai)(zai)(zai)開水鍋(guo)里(li)滾一(yi)(yi)(yi)下即可。相對于其(qi)他飯(fan)食,踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)三個特點都更有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)利于行軍打(da)仗,漢高(gao)祖(zu)能(neng)穩(wen)坐天下,其(qi)中也(ye)有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)(yi)份功(gong)勞。
如(ru)今(jin),社(she)會發展了(le),人(ren)(ren)們(men)生活水(shui)平提高(gao)了(le),吃(chi)(chi)(chi)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)也(ye)(ye)(ye)(ye)稍有(you)講究了(le)。踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)都(dou)(dou)在(zai)(zai)小飯館(guan)里(li)賣(mai),且(qie)大多同(tong)時(shi)經(jing)營面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)皮、米(mi)線等(deng)其(qi)他小吃(chi)(chi)(chi),也(ye)(ye)(ye)(ye)不(bu)(bu)(bu)再(zai)現(xian)場直(zhi)播,而(er)是(shi)(shi)前堂用(yong)餐(can),后面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)都(dou)(dou)隔了(le)操作間。桌凳(deng)也(ye)(ye)(ye)(ye)換(huan)成了(le)青一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)色的(de)(de)(de)專用(yong)于餐(can)館(guan)的(de)(de)(de)高(gao)桌、高(gao)凳(deng)。人(ren)(ren)們(men)也(ye)(ye)(ye)(ye)更不(bu)(bu)(bu)用(yong)象行軍打仗那(nei)樣,在(zai)(zai)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)飯上計較時(shi)間長短(duan),何況(kuang)超市里(li)各種各樣的(de)(de)(de)方(fang)便(bian)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)讓(rang)人(ren)(ren)能挑(tiao)花眼(yan)。但(dan)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)仍(reng)然受(shou)人(ren)(ren)青睞。自己沒(mei)(mei)有(you)在(zai)(zai)合(he)陽呆過,不(bu)(bu)(bu)知(zhi)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)故鄉(xiang)合(he)陽人(ren)(ren)是(shi)(shi)不(bu)(bu)(bu)是(shi)(shi)非(fei)常(chang)(chang)愛吃(chi)(chi)(chi)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。而(er)在(zai)(zai)華(hua)(hua)陰,我(wo)所熟(shu)知(zhi)的(de)(de)(de)人(ren)(ren)沒(mei)(mei)有(you)不(bu)(bu)(bu)喜歡踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)。用(yong)餐(can)時(shi)分(fen),隨便(bian)走進哪個(ge)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)館(guan),都(dou)(dou)幾乎(hu)座無虛席,食(shi)者無論男婦老幼,不(bu)(bu)(bu)分(fen)尊卑(bei)貴賤。不(bu)(bu)(bu)僅小攤小店里(li)有(you),星級賓館(guan)飯店里(li)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)也(ye)(ye)(ye)(ye)是(shi)(shi)食(shi)譜里(li)小吃(chi)(chi)(chi)的(de)(de)(de)代表品(pin)類,每宴賓客,華(hua)(hua)陰人(ren)(ren)必以踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)為特色小吃(chi)(chi)(chi)待(dai)之(zhi)。不(bu)(bu)(bu)僅如(ru)此(ci),我(wo)還聽說一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)些遠離家鄉(xiang)在(zai)(zai)外地干事的(de)(de)(de)華(hua)(hua)陰人(ren)(ren)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)旦回(hui)澄,顧不(bu)(bu)(bu)上奔家里(li),先要(yao)到街上找(zhao)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)家踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)館(guan),飽餐(can)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)頓(dun)久違的(de)(de)(de)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),平日里(li)和同(tong)事們(men)出(chu)去吃(chi)(chi)(chi)飯,他們(men)也(ye)(ye)(ye)(ye)常(chang)(chang)常(chang)(chang)以踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)為首選(xuan),有(you)時(shi)候(hou)(hou)即使一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)塊兒享用(yong)其(qi)他飯食(shi),當中必有(you)人(ren)(ren)嘆曰:哎(ai)呀!好(hao)些日子(zi)都(dou)(dou)沒(mei)(mei)有(you)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)了(le)。每當這個(ge)時(shi)候(hou)(hou),我(wo)就(jiu)想,踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)雖生在(zai)(zai)合(he)陽,但(dan)也(ye)(ye)(ye)(ye)在(zai)(zai)華(hua)(hua)陰扎了(le)根(gen),而(er)且(qie)這根(gen)扎在(zai)(zai)了(le)華(hua)(hua)陰人(ren)(ren)的(de)(de)(de)心里(li),讓(rang)在(zai)(zai)外的(de)(de)(de)游子(zi)魂牽夢縈,讓(rang)幾乎(hu)所有(you)的(de)(de)(de)華(hua)(hua)陰人(ren)(ren)都(dou)(dou)有(you)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)個(ge)共同(tong)的(de)(de)(de)飲食(shi)愛好(hao),在(zai)(zai)華(hua)(hua)陰若要(yao)論起飲食(shi)文化(hua)來,我(wo)看(kan)華(hua)(hua)陰踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)當是(shi)(shi)首選(xuan)的(de)(de)(de)飯食(shi)之(zhi)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)。
踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)用(yong)(yong)蕎(qiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)做成(cheng),分(fen)為磨(mo)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、和(he)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、攤(tan)(tan)(tan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、切(qie)(qie)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、下面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)五(wu)(wu)道工(gong)序(xu)。首先(xian)把蕎(qiao)麥(mai)(mai)揀凈淘好(hao),磨(mo)成(cheng)細面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。和(he)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)時要(yao)用(yong)(yong)能(neng)裝四(si)(si)(si)五(wu)(wu)十(shi)斤的(de)(de)(de)大瓷(ci)盆(pen)(pen),在(zai)(zai)(zai)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉里添上水(shui),用(yong)(yong)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)根粗木棒(bang)順(shun)同(tong)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)方向攪拌(ban),這是關鍵的(de)(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)環,必須(xu)稀稠得當(dang),攪拌(ban)均(jun)勻。面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)糊和(he)得好(hao),攤(tan)(tan)(tan)出的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)才能(neng)好(hao)。陜西人(ren)做面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)講(jiang)究自己動手,去市場里買(mai)壓好(hao)的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)是會給鄙視的(de)(de)(de),所以壓面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)機在(zai)(zai)(zai)陜西一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)直(zhi)銷量有(you)限,賣踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)人(ren)講(jiang)究自已(yi)動手,把蕎(qiao)麥(mai)(mai)揀凈淘好(hao),磨(mo)成(cheng)細面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。和(he)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)時要(yao)用(yong)(yong)能(neng)裝四(si)(si)(si)五(wu)(wu)十(shi)斤的(de)(de)(de)大瓷(ci)盆(pen)(pen),在(zai)(zai)(zai)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉里添上水(shui),用(yong)(yong)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)根粗木棒(bang)順(shun)同(tong)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)方向攪拌(ban),這是關鍵的(de)(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)環,必須(xu)稀稠得當(dang),攪拌(ban)均(jun)勻。面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)糊和(he)得好(hao),攤(tan)(tan)(tan)出的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)更好(hao)。攤(tan)(tan)(tan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)用(yong)(yong)的(de)(de)(de)是物制的(de)(de)(de)鐵(tie)鏊(ao)(ao),重(zhong)達40余斤,直(zhi)徑二尺(chi)多(duo)。舀一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)勺和(he)好(hao)的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)糊倒在(zai)(zai)(zai)鏊(ao)(ao)中心,用(yong)(yong)半(ban)月形的(de)(de)(de)木踅(xue)子劃開攤(tan)(tan)(tan)平(ping),據說“踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”即由此得名。稍頃,待一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)受火(huo)變硬翻過來(lai)烘烤另一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),烙(luo)到七(qi)八(ba)成(cheng)熟,疊在(zai)(zai)(zai)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)起(qi)(qi),折成(cheng)四(si)(si)(si)折,用(yong)(yong)刀切(qie)(qie)成(cheng)細絲,講(jiang)究切(qie)(qie)成(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)寬窄和(he)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)餅薄厚(hou)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)樣(yang),四(si)(si)(si)棱見線(xian),才顯功夫。切(qie)(qie)好(hao)的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)碼在(zai)(zai)(zai)木箱在(zai)(zai)(zai)里備用(yong)(yong)。吃(chi)時把水(shui)燒開,再(zai)放少(shao)許鹽,以防面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)入鍋(guo)中變粘。抓(zhua)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)把切(qie)(qie)好(hao)的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)投(tou)入鍋(guo)中,用(yong)(yong)筷(kuai)子須(xu)鍋(guo)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)攪,便(bian)可(ke)撈起(qi)(qi)。外地人(ren)見狀(zhuang)總懷疑這面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)是否變熟,其實完全不用(yong)(yong)擔心,因為在(zai)(zai)(zai)鏊(ao)(ao)上已(yi)烙(luo)至七(qi)八(ba)成(cheng),再(zai)在(zai)(zai)(zai)沸湯中一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)燙,便(bian)完全熟了(le)。或(huo)干撈,或(huo)帶湯,悉聽尊便(bian),須(xu)手再(zai)用(yong)(yong)笊(zhao)籬撈一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)些魚兒(er)粉,然后調上豬油(you)(白(bai)油(you))、大油(you)辣椒(jiao)(jiao)(紅油(you))、清油(you)辣椒(jiao)(jiao)、鹽、醋、蘸一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)點花(hua)椒(jiao)(jiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),撒一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)捏蔥花(hua)或(huo)韭(jiu)菜花(hua),便(bian)可(ke)食用(yong)(yong)了(le)。
吃(chi)(chi)踅面時(shi)豬(zhu)油(you)必(bi)不(bu)可少,蕎(qiao)面調(diao)上(shang)(shang)豬(zhu)油(you),才軟(ruan)和好(hao)吃(chi)(chi)。外地人一(yi)是(shi)嫌(xian)蕎(qiao)面看起來黑(hei),其貌不(bu)揚;二(er)是(shi)怕不(bu)熟;三(san)是(shi)對(dui)紅油(you)辣椒望而生(sheng)畏,但(dan)若吃(chi)(chi)上(shang)(shang)一(yi)碗,便(bian)覺(jue)味美可口,咬(yao)到嘴里筋(jin),吃(chi)(chi)到肚里香(xiang),方知(zhi)合陽人為什么對(dui)踅面感情(qing)極深。合陽人不(bu)分男女老(lao)少,都喜食踅面,上(shang)(shang)會(hui)趕集,少不(bu)了兩碗踅面,一(yi)個(ge)個(ge)吃(chi)(chi)得(de)(de)滿嘴紅油(you),即使是(shi)穿著(zhu)入時(shi)的大姑(gu)娘(niang)小媳婦也絲毫不(bu)覺(jue)難(nan)為情(qing),反而卻覺(jue)得(de)(de)這才吃(chi)(chi)出味兒來了。逢到過春節(jie),許多家(jia)都是(shi)專門訂做幾十(shi)斤,準(zhun)備好(hao)紅油(you)辣椒,以便(bian)招待親朋(peng)好(hao)友;碰到接(jie)待外地來客,踅面更是(shi)飯桌(zhuo)上(shang)(shang)必(bi)不(bu)可少的保留節(jie)目(mu)。
制作(zuo)(zuo)好(hao)的(de)踅面(mian)好(hao)比方便面(mian)。吃(chi)(chi)(chi)時(shi)(shi)在(zai)開水(shui)鍋浸泡兩(liang)分鐘(zhong),撈出(chu),放進(jin)碗里,加少(shao)許粉(fen)魚,調(diao)鹽、醋、蔥(cong)花(hua)、花(hua)椒(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)面(mian),再(zai)淋(lin)上辣椒(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)油(you)及熟(shu)豬油(you)即成。粉(fen)魚講(jiang)究用(yong)(yong)綠豆粉(fen)制作(zuo)(zuo),這(zhe)是(shi)最好(hao)的(de)。用(yong)(yong)小(xiao)麥面(mian)、玉米面(mian)也(ye)(ye)行。但通常(chang)多用(yong)(yong)紅薯面(mian)制作(zuo)(zuo)粉(fen)魚。合(he)(he)陽盛(sheng)產優(you)質紅薯,干(gan)甜適(shi)口,制作(zuo)(zuo)粉(fen)魚也(ye)(ye)不錯。合(he)(he)陽人(ren)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)踅面(mian),喜歡多放辣椒(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)油(you)和豬油(you),這(zhe)樣,吃(chi)(chi)(chi)起來(lai)(lai),又綿,又潤(run),又辣,香味濃烈,頗覺(jue)過癮。也(ye)(ye)可以伴著喝一(yi)碗粉(fen)魚湯。有(you)(you)干(gan)有(you)(you)稀(xi),符合(he)(he)衛生營養要求(qiu)。而且蕎麥又有(you)(you)清熱利(li)尿(niao)之功效(xiao),當(dang)地群眾在(zai)原來(lai)(lai)簡單食用(yong)(yong)的(de)基礎上也(ye)(ye)進(jin)行了一(yi)些改(gai)進(jin),把(ba)大餅切(qie)成細條,吃(chi)(chi)(chi)時(shi)(shi)在(zai)鍋里稍煮(zhu),撈出(chu)來(lai)(lai)加上調(diao)料,更加好(hao)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)。
在合陽各(ge)地(di)都可以吃到踅(xue)面,坊鎮踅(xue)面被稱為(wei)正宗,高手輩出,每(mei)逢集(ji)日,數十(shi)家(jia)踅(xue)面各(ge)呈民彩。近半個世紀來則以田茂林的踅(xue)面最為(wei)出名。
炒踅面更是做為一(yi)(yi)盤(pan)美味(wei)(wei)菜肴出現在豪華酒店的菜譜里(li)(li)。東門大酒店張師傅做的炒踅面五(wu)彩斑斕(lan),酥潤可口,韻味(wei)(wei)悠(you)長,嚼到嘴(zui)里(li)(li)筋(jin),咽到肚(du)里(li)(li)香。“長壽菜”——炒踅面:龜壽延年(老人過壽時,一(yi)(yi)只千年壽龜栩栩如生(sheng)昂(ang)首在你的面前);富貴滿園(中(zhong)年人過生(sheng)日(ri)時,一(yi)(yi)朵牡(mu)丹(dan)花盛開在你的生(sheng)命(ming)里(li)(li));太(tai)陽花開(孩子(zi)過生(sheng)日(ri)時,一(yi)(yi)朵太(tai)陽花燦爛在你的心(xin)田)。
炒踅(xue)面(mian)做法很簡單。用料:干散的踅(xue)面(mian)、雞(ji)蛋、辣(la)椒(jiao)(jiao)、卷(juan)心菜(cai)、西紅柿等蔬(shu)菜(cai)。把熟油熱至(zhi)4、5成,先倒入(ru)蔥(cong)姜蒜爆(bao)炒,再放(fang)入(ru)花椒(jiao)(jiao)面(mian)、辣(la)椒(jiao)(jiao)面(mian),接著放(fang)入(ru)黃豆(dou)芽、紅、綠辣(la)椒(jiao)(jiao)絲炒至(zhi)7、8成,最后(hou)倒入(ru)踅(xue)面(mian),加高湯(tang)翻炒裝盤。
踅面(mian)一年四季都能(neng)進食,“夏吃(chi)解乏困,冬食驅冷寒”,蕎面(mian)能(neng)消(xiao)暑利尿,有解乏除濕的藥(yao)效(xiao),常吃(chi)可以降(jiang)血脂,平(ping)血壓(ya),治便秘,調胃潤腸,既治病,又保健(jian),可謂(wei)是“長壽面(mian)”。隨著人們(men)對蕎麥天(tian)然保健(jian)作用的認識,踅面(mian)必(bi)將風(feng)靡全國,走向世(shi)界。
踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)是(shi)家(jia)(jia)(jia)鄉(xiang)(xiang)的(de)味(wei)道(dao),是(shi)家(jia)(jia)(jia)鄉(xiang)(xiang)人兒(er)(er)時(shi)(shi)的(de)“情結”。猶記(ji)兒(er)(er)時(shi)(shi)跟隨父母去(qu)趕集的(de)情景,口(kou)(kou)饞,總想吃點什么(me),父母便(bian)帶我們姐弟踅(xue)過(guo)來,踅(xue)過(guo)去(qu),最終還是(shi)停到最便(bian)宜的(de)“踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)”攤前一飽(bao)口(kou)(kou)福(fu)。農(nong)民的(de)父母親窮啊(a),買不起時(shi)(shi)更多的(de)時(shi)(shi)候許諾下次趕集時(shi)(shi)讓(rang)吃碗(wan)(wan)踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)——兒(er)(er)時(shi)(shi)的(de)“奢(she)侈飯(fan)”,因(yin)此長大了,有(you)(you)錢了,可還是(shi)惦記(ji)兒(er)(er)時(shi)(shi)的(de)“踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)”,就是(shi)走出去(qu)多少(shao)年,走出去(qu)多么(me)遠,仍然惦記(ji)。它已經深深地在(zai)家(jia)(jia)(jia)鄉(xiang)(xiang)人的(de)心里(li)扎了根(gen),讓(rang)在(zai)外的(de)游子(zi)也魂牽夢縈。走,咥(xi)踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)哈。離家(jia)(jia)(jia)的(de)游子(zi)或(huo)者在(zai)外打工的(de)一旦回家(jia)(jia)(jia),路(lu)過(guo)街上先找一家(jia)(jia)(jia)踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)店,咥(xi)兩碗(wan)(wan)家(jia)(jia)(jia)鄉(xiang)(xiang)的(de)踅(xue)面(mian)(mian),飽(bao)餐一頓。平日里(li)和同事們出去(qu)吃飯(fan),也常常以踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)為首(shou)選,有(you)(you)時(shi)(shi)候即使一塊(kuai)兒(er)(er)享用其他(ta)飯(fan)食,當中(zhong)有(you)(you)人必嘆:哎呀!好些日子(zi)都沒有(you)(you)吃踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)了。
踅面好(hao),好(hao)踅面。到了(le)合陽吃(chi)踅面。你一碗,我一碗,吃(chi)到肚子真真餡……街頭巷尾《踅面香香》的童謠時(shi)時(shi)在耳邊(bian)響(xiang)起……