楊(yang)(yang)凌(ling)蘸水面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)是陜西一(yi)種地方小吃(chi)。面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)白薄筋光、油汪蒜辣香、湯面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)分盆裝、越嚼口越香。楊(yang)(yang)凌(ling)蘸水面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)和湯是分開的(de),吃(chi)的(de)時候從大面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆里(li)夾(jia)出寬厚且長的(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)拉到碗(wan)里(li)的(de)湯中,然后夾(jia)著面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)一(yi)口一(yi)口地咬著吃(chi)。
陜(shan)(shan)人(ren)點(dian)菜請客(ke),多為(wei)涼菜,少不(bu)(bu)得(de)鳳翔臘(la)驢(lv)肉,普集燒雞,西(xi)鄉牛肉干(gan),老童家臘(la)牛肉,三原白封(feng)肉,寶(bao)雞葵花雞等,可(ke)以(yi)不(bu)(bu)上(shang)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)個熱(re)菜,冬天(tian)亦吃(chi)(chi)得(de)鼻尖冒汗,而(er)(er)我卻若(ruo)滿(man)腹凝霜。于(yu)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi),熱(re)面(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)浩(hao)(hao)浩(hao)(hao)蕩(dang)蕩(dang)上(shang)來了(le),之(zhi)所以(yi)使用浩(hao)(hao)蕩(dang)二(er)字(zi),實(shi)因(yin)面(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)盛(sheng)在(zai)(zai)小臉(lian)盆(pen)(pen)里(li)端(duan)上(shang)來的(de)(de)(de)(de),在(zai)(zai)陜(shan)(shan)西(xi)這里(li)當然就(jiu)叫(jiao)(jiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen)(pen),是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)裝(zhuang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen)(pen)而(er)(er)非(fei)洗(xi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen)(pen),在(zai)(zai)贛南(nan)則(ze)真的(de)(de)(de)(de)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)叫(jiao)(jiao)的(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen)(pen),洗(xi)臉(lian)就(jiu)叫(jiao)(jiao)洗(xi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)呢。面(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)端(duan)上(shang)來,熱(re)汽騰(teng)騰(teng),菜青面(mian)(mian)(mian)白,又(you)波清霧白,各人(ren)面(mian)(mian)(mian)前就(jiu)上(shang)了(le)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)只大(da)碗(wan),碗(wan)中就(jiu)有(you)(you)湯,西(xi)紅柿、蛋花、姜、蒜(suan)、紅辣椒、口蘑(mo)、玉蘭片、海參、干(gan)貝等,微(wei)酸(suan),略辣,就(jiu)從大(da)面(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen)(pen)里(li)夾出寬(kuan)厚且長(chang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao),泡在(zai)(zai)湯中,然后夾著(zhu)面(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)口一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)口地(di)(di)咬(yao)吃(chi)(chi)。面(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)強(qiang)筋面(mian)(mian)(mian),咬(yao)在(zai)(zai)口里(li),滑潤,富彈性(xing),是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)有(you)(you)張力的(de)(de)(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)種(zhong),像咬(yao)著(zhu)三秦大(da)地(di)(di)的(de)(de)(de)(de)月光。吃(chi)(chi)若(ruo)干(gan)口面(mian)(mian)(mian),就(jiu)得(de)吃(chi)(chi)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)口面(mian)(mian)(mian)湯里(li)青菜,這樣就(jiu)又(you)清爽上(shang)陣了(le)。 住在(zai)(zai)楊(yang)(yang)凌(ling)若(ruo)干(gan)天(tian),方理(li)解吃(chi)(chi)蘸水面(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)妙處,其實(shi)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)圖個清爽。獨(du)吃(chi)(chi)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)根面(mian)(mian)(mian),幾束青菜,碗(wan)中可(ke)叫(jiao)(jiao)湯也(ye)可(ke)以(yi)叫(jiao)(jiao)稍子,與油潑(po)面(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)意(yi)境(jing)正好相反,那油潑(po)面(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)糊面(mian)(mian)(mian)、重(zhong)油、巨辣,全(quan)盤(pan)傲視(shi)川(chuan)人(ren)的(de)(de)(de)(de)姿態(tai),陜(shan)(shan)人(ren)說:川(chuan)人(ren)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)辣在(zai)(zai)嘴(zui)上(shang),陜(shan)(shan)人(ren)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)辣在(zai)(zai)心里(li)。意(yi)思是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)四川(chuan)人(ren)吃(chi)(chi)辣椒,只是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)叫(jiao)(jiao)得(de)響,而(er)(er)陜(shan)(shan)西(xi)人(ren)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)吃(chi)(chi)得(de)響。人(ren)真是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)各有(you)(you)各的(de)(de)(de)(de)可(ke)愛罷,如(ru)川(chuan)人(ren)吃(chi)(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian),曰擔(dan)擔(dan)面(mian)(mian)(mian),令人(ren)有(you)(you)籮(luo)擔(dan)之(zhi)想,然細碗(wan)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)握(wo),面(mian)(mian)(mian)細如(ru)絲,恰(qia)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)陜(shan)(shan)人(ren)吃(chi)(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)另一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)極端(duan)。然又(you)有(you)(you)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)發現,楊(yang)(yang)凌(ling)人(ren)吃(chi)(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian),也(ye)包括西(xi)安人(ren)吃(chi)(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian),皆大(da)盆(pen)(pen)使之(zhi),其狀非(fei)魯智生不(bu)(bu)可(ke)比,然人(ren)且瘦,楊(yang)(yang)凌(ling)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)座(zuo)瘦城,看上(shang)去西(xi)安也(ye)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)座(zuo)瘦城,比之(zhi)肥(fei)城北京,已經(jing)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)俊(jun)秀若(ruo)江南(nan)了(le),也(ye)許(xu)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)城小一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)些(xie)的(de)(de)(de)(de)原因(yin)。 吃(chi)(chi)罷楊(yang)(yang)凌(ling)蘸水面(mian)(mian)(mian),訪(fang)西(xi)北農林大(da)學(xue)古農史(shi)家樊志民先(xian)生,獲知:西(xi)亞(ya)考古,小麥有(you)(you)史(shi)8千(qian)至1萬年(nian),中國考古,甘肅小麥已有(you)(you)五千(qian)年(nian),武(wu)功則(ze)有(you)(you)3千(qian)8百年(nian)。多數農史(shi)學(xue)家認定(ding)小麥由西(xi)亞(ya)傳入,先(xian)西(xi)北而(er)(er)黃淮(huai)地(di)(di)區種(zhong)植,古時小麥不(bu)(bu)叫(jiao)(jiao)小麥,叫(jiao)(jiao)“來”,是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)繁寫的(de)(de)(de)(de)那個“來”,大(da)麥且叫(jiao)(jiao)“麰”。巨獲益,坦坦然飽腹而(er)(er)歸(gui)。
第一步:面(mian)粉加(jia)入(ru)淡鹽水,用手揉成光(guang)滑的面(mian)條,醒上十來分鐘再揉一次。
第二(er)步:小白菜(cai)、苜(mu)蓿(xu)或者(zhe)芹(qin)菜(cai)等洗凈切好(hao),西紅柿切塊,大(da)蔥(cong)切丁(ding),雞蛋打散。
第三步:把面(mian)趕成(cheng)(cheng)一張大面(mian)片,切成(cheng)(cheng)3-5cm寬的面(mian)條待用,蓋上濕布醒十來分鐘
第四步:把蔥姜蒜等在(zai)鍋里(li)爆炒,加入(ru)西紅(hong)柿翻(fan)炒,待(dai)西紅(hong)柿略化(hua)開加入(ru)適量水,煮開加入(ru)鹽(yan)、味精(jing)、胡椒粉(fen)、醬油(you)等。
第(di)(di)五步(bu):燒水(shui)下面(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)(tiao),下面(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)(tiao)時(shi)用力拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)(tiao)至原來(lai)的(de)2倍多,再反復(fu)的(de)用力彈面(mian)(mian)(mian),把(ba)面(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)韌性釋放,放入(ru)鍋(guo)中,鍋(guo)里面(mian)(mian)(mian)第(di)(di)一次(ci)開鍋(guo)后,放入(ru)小白菜、苜蓿或者(zhe)芹(qin)菜等,再次(ci)開鍋(guo)可(ke)以盛出;
第六步:把(ba)做好的湯(tang)汁(zhi)盛(sheng)在碗(wan)中加入辣(la)椒油和香油,面條一根(gen)根(gen)撈到碗(wan)里食用!