百(bai)善硬(ying)(ying)面大卷不同于一(yi)般(ban)的(de)(de)大卷。首(shou)先是(shi)(shi)它的(de)(de)“硬(ying)(ying)”;用(yong)手按(an)不出凹坑,攥在拳中不變(bian)形(xing)(xing),像磚頭(tou)塊似的(de)(de)。再者(zhe)是(shi)(shi)“大”:正宗(zong)的(de)(de)大卷一(yi)般(ban)長7厘(li)米,寬3厘(li)米,高 15厘(li)米,一(yi)個(ge)足有四(si)兩多(duo)。其次是(shi)(shi)它的(de)(de)形(xing)(xing)狀:上方為(wei)橋拱圓(yuan)弧形(xing)(xing),下邊為(wei)四(si)方形(xing)(xing)。
硬(ying)面(mian)(mian)大卷的(de)(de)制作(zuo)工(gong)藝相(xiang)當繁雜(za)。往年(nian)沒有磨面(mian)(mian)機,石磨推出的(de)(de)小(xiao)麥面(mian)(mian)粉,頭(tou)(tou)破面(mian)(mian)要(yao)(yao)(yao)(yao)(yao)用(yong)(yong)銅絲羅二(er)遍,使面(mian)(mian)粉又白又細,做(zuo)出的(de)(de)大卷才能光亮不走形(xing)。當天(tian)早上能上市的(de)(de)大卷,頭(tou)(tou)天(tian)晚(wan)上就(jiu)(jiu)要(yao)(yao)(yao)(yao)(yao)開始和發(fa)面(mian)(mian),凌晨(chen)2點(dian)就(jiu)(jiu)得(de)起(qi)床開始顫(zhan)面(mian)(mian)。顫(zhan)面(mian)(mian)時撒一(yi)層干面(mian)(mian),把干面(mian)(mian)顫(zhan)進發(fa)面(mian)(mian)后(hou)(hou),再撒一(yi)層干面(mian)(mian),再繼(ji)續顫(zhan)。這(zhe)樣要(yao)(yao)(yao)(yao)(yao)反復六七遍,直至把面(mian)(mian)顫(zhan)得(de)提起(qi)來(lai)不下墜,放下來(lai)不走形(xing)為(wei)止。顫(zhan)面(mian)(mian)費工(gong)費時,勞(lao)動(dong)強(qiang)度大,又要(yao)(yao)(yao)(yao)(yao)把握(wo)面(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)干濕軟(ruan)硬(ying)程度,是制作(zuo)硬(ying)面(mian)(mian)大卷的(de)(de)關鍵技(ji)巧(qiao)。為(wei)減輕雙手顫(zhan)面(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)勞(lao)動(dong)強(qiang)度,有人發(fa)明了在面(mian)(mian)案一(yi)頭(tou)(tou)栓根木(mu)棒(bang),把面(mian)(mian)放在棒(bang)下,用(yong)(yong)雙手壓(ya)木(mu)棒(bang)顫(zhan)面(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)技(ji)巧(qiao)。顫(zhan)面(mian)(mian)工(gong)序完成(cheng)后(hou)(hou),接著要(yao)(yao)(yao)(yao)(yao)做(zuo)出一(yi)排(pai)排(pai)上圓下方的(de)(de)“饃(mo)基(ji)子”,用(yong)(yong)鋒利的(de)(de)菜刀快速(su)切出個頭(tou)(tou)均勻的(de)(de)大卷。大卷入鍋幾分鐘后(hou)(hou),要(yao)(yao)(yao)(yao)(yao)開鍋蓋查看(kan),發(fa)現走形(xing)的(de)(de)要(yao)(yao)(yao)(yao)(yao)及早整形(xing),然后(hou)(hou)燒(shao)旺火,一(yi)氣呵成(cheng)。