概述
原(yuan)是一(yi)座很完整的組(zu)群建(jian)(jian)筑,位(wei)于五(wu)臺縣(xian)城東(dong)西米市街是按我國(guo)一(yi)般佛(fo)教寺(si)(si)院(yuan)(yuan)坐北向南而建(jian)(jian)。占地面(mian)積(ji)883平方米,中軸線(xian)上有二進院(yuan)(yuan)落,三座殿(dian)宇。依次為山門(men)、文殊殿(dian)、大(da)雄寶(bao)殿(dian)。其(qi)中以大(da)雄寶(bao)殿(dian)規模最大(da),面(mian)寬5間(jian)。鐘、鼓樓建(jian)(jian)在文殊殿(dian)兩旁,左右配殿(dian)、廂房(fang)環(huan)抱,共計16問(wen),每邊為8間(jian)。紅墻(qiang)綠瓦,端(duan)莊幽雅。建(jian)(jian)國(guo)后,新(xin)建(jian)(jian)縣(xian)博物館,寺(si)(si)院(yuan)(yuan)前部分建(jian)(jian)筑拆(chai)除,只存一(yi)座大(da)雄寶(bao)殿(dian)。
發展歷史
廣濟寺位居的(de)(de)五(wu)臺(tai)城(cheng)(cheng),歷史悠久(jiu),在舊石器時代就有(you)人類居住。西漢置(zhi)慮(lv)虒(zhi)(zhi)縣(xian)(xian)(xian),隸太(tai)原(yuan)郡(jun)。因發源于縣(xian)(xian)(xian)城(cheng)(cheng)西北(bei)(bei)15公里(li)的(de)(de)慮(lv)虒(zhi)(zhi)山下里(li)底(di)村(cun)(cun)的(de)(de)慮(lv)虒(zhi)(zhi)水(shui)東(dong)南(nan)(nan)(nan)流經(jing)縣(xian)(xian)(xian)城(cheng)(cheng)注入清水(shui)河而(er)得名(ming)。慮(lv)虒(zhi)(zhi)古(gu)城(cheng)(cheng)遺址在今(jin)古(gu)城(cheng)(cheng)村(cun)(cun)北(bei)(bei)。三(san)國(guo)時屬魏(wei)國(guo),隸太(tai)原(yuan)郡(jun)。西晉時縣(xian)(xian)(xian)廢。北(bei)(bei)魏(wei)太(tai)和十(shi)年(486)置(zhi)驢夷縣(xian)(xian)(xian),隸永安郡(jun)。慮(lv)與驢音近,虒(zhi)(zhi)古(gu)音夷,在慮(lv)虒(zhi)(zhi)縣(xian)(xian)(xian)城(cheng)(cheng)南(nan)(nan)(nan)新建驢夷城(cheng)(cheng)。城(cheng)(cheng)周長三(san)里(li)二十(shi)步,東(dong)、南(nan)(nan)(nan)臨慮(lv)虒(zhi)(zhi)水(shui),西、北(bei)(bei)有(you)池,東(dong)、南(nan)(nan)(nan)、北(bei)(bei)三(san)面為(wei)陡崖,縣(xian)(xian)(xian)城(cheng)(cheng)小而(er)堅,地形陡絕(jue),高不(bu)可攻,宜于防守(shou)。北(bei)(bei)齊時,驢夷縣(xian)(xian)(xian)屬雁門(men)郡(jun)管轄。隋煬帝(di)大(da)業三(san)年(607),改名(ming)五(wu)臺(tai)縣(xian)(xian)(xian)。金貞虒(zhi)(zhi)四年(1216)升(sheng)為(wei)臺(tai)州(zhou)。明(ming)洪武九年(1376)復為(wei)五(wu)臺(tai)縣(xian)(xian)(xian),屬代州(zhou)管轄。
五(wu)臺縣(xian)城在明(ming)清(qing)兩代(dai)屢次(ci)增修。明(ming)隆慶四(si)(si)年(1570)建南、北(bei)二(er)樓(lou)(lou),外筑廓垣。明(ming)萬(wan)(wan)歷二(er)十四(si)(si)年(1596)增修大(da)(da)垣高三(san)(san)丈二(er)尺(chi),厚二(er)丈五(wu)尺(chi),垛口635個,堞臺20座(zuo),門(men)(men)(men)3座(zuo)。明(ming)萬(wan)(wan)歷三(san)(san)十三(san)(san)年(1605)增修城樓(lou)(lou)4座(zuo)。城門(men)(men)(men)題名,南門(men)(men)(men)謂大(da)(da)安門(men)(men)(men),樓(lou)(lou)匾(bian)“虒波環清(qing)”;西門(men)(men)(men)謂恩綸門(men)(men)(men),樓(lou)(lou)匾(bian)“金湯鞏固”;北(bei)門(men)(men)(men)謂寧門(men)(men)(men),樓(lou)(lou)匾(bian)“臺山拱翠”;東門(men)(men)(men)樓(lou)(lou)匾(bian)“起鳳”。
建筑布局
大(da)雄寶殿(dian)(dian)面(mian)寬5間,進深3問,單檐(yan)懸(xuan)山頂(ding),殿(dian)(dian)前(qian)(qian)有月臺,面(mian)積(ji)290平(ping)(ping)(ping)方米。該殿(dian)(dian)雖幾經(jing)局部重修(xiu)(xiu),但(dan)梁架(jia)(jia)結構和用(yong)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)方法(fa)仍保(bao)存了(le)原狀。柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)頭覆盆式,各柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)微(wei)向(xiang)內(nei)傾,置成“側角(jiao)”,造成“升起”。這種(zhong)做法(fa)增強了(le)梁架(jia)(jia)的(de)(de)穩固力。屋頂(ding)坡(po)度(du)較平(ping)(ping)(ping)緩(huan),檐(yan)下(xia)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)頭四(si)鋪作斗(dou)(dou)拱(gong)(gong),自(zi)櫨斗(dou)(dou)斗(dou)(dou)口出平(ping)(ping)(ping)直的(de)(de)假(jia)昂(ang)一跳,昂(ang)背置交(jiao)互斗(dou)(dou),耍頭與撩檐(yan)枋相交(jiao),后(hou)尾承樺(hua)拱(gong)(gong)托四(si)椽。補間鋪作每間一朵(duo)斜拱(gong)(gong),后(hou)尾托平(ping)(ping)(ping)棋枋。殿(dian)(dian)之前(qian)(qian)檐(yan)下(xia)懸(xuan)有“大(da)雄寶殿(dian)(dian)”豎匾一塊,為乾(qian)隆(long)四(si)十三年(1778)重修(xiu)(xiu)廣濟寺時懸(xuan)掛的(de)(de)。殿(dian)(dian)內(nei)徹上(shang)露明造。為適應宗教禮拜活動和擴大(da)內(nei)部空(kong)間的(de)(de)使用(yong)面(mian)積(ji),金柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)的(de)(de)配置,采用(yong)減(jian)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)法(fa),前(qian)(qian)槽(cao)不(bu)設(she)金柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu),后(hou)槽(cao)只用(yong)粗大(da)的(de)(de)兩根金柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)承托內(nei)額,大(da)內(nei)額之上(shang)承四(si)椽。殿(dian)(dian)內(nei)正中懸(xuan)木匾,上(shang)書(shu)“天人(ren)和益”,為五臺知(zhi)縣王秉韜于乾(qian)隆(long)四(si)十三年(1778)書(shu)。
殿內保存有(you)(you)(you)泥塑(su)(su)(su)像(xiang)(xiang)30尊,基本完好(hao)。主(zhu)像(xiang)(xiang)3尊,供奉在(zai)前面的佛(fo)臺上(shang)(shang),結跏趺坐于(yu)須彌座蓮(lian)臺上(shang)(shang)。正中(zhong)(zhong)釋迦牟(mou)尼佛(fo),頭上(shang)(shang)藍(lan)色螺發盤旋,臉形圓潤(run),身(shen)軀肥碩,上(shang)(shang)身(shen)袒胸,身(shen)披(pi)袈裟,衣(yi)紋簡潔流暢。兩(liang)側塑(su)(su)(su)二弟子(zi)(zi)阿難(nan)、迦葉,嚴謹安祥(xiang)。左(zuo)邊文(wen)殊(shu)菩(pu)(pu)(pu)(pu)薩(sa)(sa)(sa),右邊普賢(xian)菩(pu)(pu)(pu)(pu)薩(sa)(sa)(sa),面目豐腴,寬衣(yi)博帶,束發蓮(lian)冠,給人以藝(yi)術之(zhi)美感。這3尊像(xiang)(xiang)合稱(cheng)為“華嚴三(san)圣”。文(wen)殊(shu)菩(pu)(pu)(pu)(pu)薩(sa)(sa)(sa)和普賢(xian)菩(pu)(pu)(pu)(pu)薩(sa)(sa)(sa)兩(liang)側,塑(su)(su)(su)脅侍(shi)菩(pu)(pu)(pu)(pu)薩(sa)(sa)(sa)兩(liang)尊,他(ta)們項戴瓔珞,臂飾(shi)寶釧,容貌健美。佛(fo)臺前兩(liang)側塑(su)(su)(su)有(you)(you)(you)韋馱、伽藍(lan),相對而立(li),威武雄壯(zhuang),好(hao)象在(zai)履行自己的護法職守。東西兩(liang)山(shan)墻下塑(su)(su)(su)有(you)(you)(you)十(shi)八羅漢,有(you)(you)(you)仰有(you)(you)(you)俯,有(you)(you)(you)喜(xi)有(you)(you)(you)怒(nu),姿態各(ge)異,栩栩如(ru)生。佛(fo)臺背面正中(zhong)(zhong)塑(su)(su)(su)文(wen)殊(shu)菩(pu)(pu)(pu)(pu)薩(sa)(sa)(sa)騎獅子(zi)(zi),左(zuo)邊塑(su)(su)(su)觀音菩(pu)(pu)(pu)(pu)薩(sa)(sa)(sa)騎朝天吼,右邊塑(su)(su)(su)普賢(xian)菩(pu)(pu)(pu)(pu)薩(sa)(sa)(sa)騎白象,合稱(cheng)“三(san)大士”。“士”者“事”也(ye),即從事自利利他(ta)的人。
大雄寶殿(dian)的(de)(de)塑(su)像(xiang)為元(yuan)至正年間(1335-1340)的(de)(de)遺物。由于(yu)受元(yuan)代(dai)戰亂影響,雕刻家(jia)發揮(hui)技(ji)藝的(de)(de)機遇受到限(xian)制,佛體欠(qian)莊嚴,像(xiang)似(si)俗骨人相,肉體表現較重,像(xiang)似(si)寫實作(zuo)風(feng),佛的(de)(de)精神已看不出多少。但是,塑(su)像(xiang)盡管出手不高,仍屬不可多得的(de)(de)作(zuo)品(pin)。
佛教三圣
大(da)(da)雄寶殿的(de)(de)彩塑(su)是(shi)(shi)“華(hua)(hua)(hua)嚴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)三(san)(san)(san)圣(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)”,那(nei)么,“華(hua)(hua)(hua)嚴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)三(san)(san)(san)圣(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)”的(de)(de)思想、造(zao)像(xiang)源(yuan)于何時何人(ren)(ren)?于此(ci)作一(yi)解(jie)釋。“華(hua)(hua)(hua)嚴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)三(san)(san)(san)圣(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)”的(de)(de)思想、造(zao)像(xiang)源(yuan)于五(wu)(wu)臺(tai)山(shan)(shan),是(shi)(shi)五(wu)(wu)臺(tai)山(shan)(shan)僧(seng)人(ren)(ren)對佛(fo)教文(wen)化的(de)(de)巨(ju)大(da)(da)貢獻。當初(chu),唐代(dai)五(wu)(wu)臺(tai)山(shan)(shan)著名(ming)的(de)(de)居(ju)士李通(tong)玄至(zhi)大(da)(da)華(hua)(hua)(hua)嚴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)寺(si)(si)研習《華(hua)(hua)(hua)嚴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)經》,提出了(le)(le)“華(hua)(hua)(hua)嚴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)三(san)(san)(san)圣(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)”的(de)(de)思想,他說毗(pi)(pi)盧(lu)(lu)遮那(nei)佛(fo)、文(wen)殊(shu)菩(pu)薩(sa)、普賢(xian)(xian)(xian)菩(pu)薩(sa)是(shi)(shi)《華(hua)(hua)(hua)嚴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)經》中(zhong)(zhong)的(de)(de)三(san)(san)(san)位(wei)圣(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)者,這三(san)(san)(san)人(ren)(ren)構成——法(fa)界(jie)之體(ti)。這一(yi)法(fa)界(jie)具(ju)有三(san)(san)(san)德:毗(pi)(pi)盧(lu)(lu)遮那(nei)佛(fo)是(shi)(shi)法(fa)身的(de)(de)果德,文(wen)殊(shu)是(shi)(shi)因(yin)位(wei)的(de)(de)智德,普賢(xian)(xian)(xian)是(shi)(shi)因(yin)位(wei)的(de)(de)行(xing)德。他們(men)之間的(de)(de)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)系(xi)(xi)是(shi)(shi):一(yi)、總(zong)別關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)系(xi)(xi);二(er)、主(zhu)伴關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)系(xi)(xi);三(san)(san)(san)、因(yin)果關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)系(xi)(xi);四、體(ti)用(yong)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)系(xi)(xi)等。而(er)(er)后大(da)(da)華(hua)(hua)(hua)嚴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)寺(si)(si)的(de)(de)高僧(seng)澄(cheng)(cheng)觀國師繼承和發展了(le)(le)李通(tong)玄的(de)(de)這一(yi)“三(san)(san)(san)圣(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)”思想,提出了(le)(le)“三(san)(san)(san)圣(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)圓(yuan)(yuan)融(rong)觀”。他說:“三(san)(san)(san)圣(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)者,本(ben)師毗(pi)(pi)盧(lu)(lu)遮那(nei)如(ru)來,普賢(xian)(xian)(xian)、文(wen)殊(shu)二(er)大(da)(da)菩(pu)薩(sa)是(shi)(shi)也。”他還說:“三(san)(san)(san)圣(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)之內,二(er)圣(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)為(wei)因(yin),如(ru)來為(wei)果。”文(wen)殊(shu)、普賢(xian)(xian)(xian)二(er)圣(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)法(fa)門互(hu)相(xiang)融(rong)通(tong)。他們(men)至(zhi)佛(fo)果之因(yin)已經完成,因(yin)之立(li)場(chang)與果之立(li)場(chang)同一(yi),且歸(gui)屬于佛(fo)果境(jing)界(jie)。由是(shi)(shi)文(wen)殊(shu)、普賢(xian)(xian)(xian)和毗(pi)(pi)盧(lu)(lu)遮那(nei)佛(fo)就(jiu)融(rong)為(wei)一(yi)體(ti)了(le)(le)。澄(cheng)(cheng)觀國師的(de)(de)“三(san)(san)(san)圣(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)圓(yuan)(yuan)融(rong)觀”思想被他的(de)(de)高足圭峰宗密運用(yong)于實踐,并按澄(cheng)(cheng)觀國師之意創造(zao)了(le)(le)以毗(pi)(pi)盧(lu)(lu)遮那(nei)佛(fo)居(ju)中(zhong)(zhong),文(wen)殊(shu)、普賢(xian)(xian)(xian)居(ju)其兩旁的(de)(de)“華(hua)(hua)(hua)嚴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)三(san)(san)(san)圣(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)”造(zao)像(xiang)。從此(ci)“華(hua)(hua)(hua)嚴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)三(san)(san)(san)圣(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)”的(de)(de)造(zao)像(xiang)就(jiu)應(ying)用(yong)而(er)(er)生了(le)(le)。
李通(tong)玄居士、澄觀國師、圭峰宗密三人都(dou)是五臺山華(hua)嚴學(xue)的(de)奠基人,“華(hua)嚴三圣”的(de)思想、造(zao)像(xiang)都(dou)是他們(men)創造(zao)的(de)。這是他們(men)對五臺山佛(fo)教文化的(de)巨大貢獻。
“華(hua)嚴三圣(sheng)”中(zhong)的毗盧遮那(nei)佛,是不(bu)可說不(bu)可得的法身佛,他(ta)的凈土叫華(hua)藏(zang)世(shi)界(jie),這(zhe)個世(shi)界(jie)最下為(wei)風輪(lun)(lun),風輪(lun)(lun)之上有香水(shui)海,海水(shui)中(zhong)生大(da)蓮花,蓮花中(zhong)包藏(zang)有微塵數之世(shi)界(jie),故(gu)稱(cheng)蓮花藏(zang)世(shi)界(jie),略稱(cheng)華(hua)藏(zang)世(shi)界(jie)。華(hua)藏(zang)世(shi)界(jie)的教主(zhu)是毗盧遮那(nei)佛。他(ta)有兩個最得力(li)的助(zhu)手,一(yi)是他(ta)的左脅(xie)侍文(wen)殊菩(pu)薩(sa),專(zhuan)司(si)智德,另(ling)一(yi)是他(ta)的右脅(xie)侍普賢菩(pu)薩(sa),專(zhuan)司(si)理(li)德。
大雄(xiong)寶(bao)殿前立八角(jiao)形經(jing)(jing)幢(chuang)一座,通高4米,下施扁平的(de)須彌座,每面雕獅。幢(chuang)身八面,都有(you)造(zao)像(xiang),刀法簡潔古樸,經(jing)(jing)幢(chuang)銘(ming)文已漫(man)漶不(bu)清(qing)。幢(chuang)身之上(shang)覆以(yi)寶(bao)蓋,周(zhou)圍(wei)淺(qian)雕幾何圖案,繞以(yi)瓔珞。寶(bao)蓋以(yi)上(shang)施覆缽(bo)和寶(bao)珠。建幢(chuang)年代不(bu)詳,從形體和雕刻技(ji)術上(shang)看,可能(neng)屬唐制,但不(bu)能(neng)超越唐代。因為《尊勝陀(tuo)羅尼經(jing)(jing)》是唐高宗時佛(fo)陀(tuo)波利來華(hua)始譯的(de)。
附近景觀群
五臺(tai)(tai)(tai)縣(xian)城四周,被5座小(xiao)臺(tai)(tai)(tai)頂環抱。東(dong)(dong)面(mian)有(you)(you)(you)東(dong)(dong)山(shan),亦(yi)名小(xiao)東(dong)(dong)臺(tai)(tai)(tai),海(hai)拔1414米,臺(tai)(tai)(tai)頂面(mian)積(ji)5平方(fang)(fang)公里(li)。山(shan)頂有(you)(you)(you)峰(feng)(feng)火(huo)臺(tai)(tai)(tai),山(shan)西(xi)北有(you)(you)(you)閣子嶺隘口,古稱(cheng)“閣道穿(chuan)云”,為五臺(tai)(tai)(tai)八景之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)一。西(xi)有(you)(you)(you)紫(zi)羅(luo)山(shan),位于縣(xian)城西(xi)南4公里(li)處(chu),山(shan)勢挺拔俊(jun)秀,人(ren)稱(cheng)小(xiao)西(xi)臺(tai)(tai)(tai),海(hai)拔1284米,山(shan)上(shang)舊有(you)(you)(you)道院,廢之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)久矣。金(jin)(jin)代道士姬志之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)重建,名“明(ming)陽觀(guan)”。金(jin)(jin)代詩人(ren)元好(hao)問(wen)曾臨觀(guan)游(you)覽,作(zuo)《明(ming)陽觀(guan)記(ji)》,并建駘臺(tai)(tai)(tai)神廟。山(shan)下(xia)有(you)(you)(you)金(jin)(jin)代侍郎張大節(jie)和忻(xin)州刺史張天叟古墓。縣(xian)城東(dong)(dong)南面(mian)有(you)(you)(you)南神垴(nao),孤峰(feng)(feng)突起(qi),層巒屏立,人(ren)稱(cheng)小(xiao)南臺(tai)(tai)(tai),海(hai)拔1217米,臺(tai)(tai)(tai)頂面(mian)積(ji)1平方(fang)(fang)公里(li)。此地是(shi)漢(han)文(wen)(wen)帝劉(liu)恒曾游(you)獵的(de)地方(fang)(fang),后人(ren)在(zai)垴(nao)上(shang)建代王廟,亦(yi)稱(cheng)漢(han)文(wen)(wen)祠。現今祠已不(bu)在(zai),廟跡猶在(zai)。北面(mian)有(you)(you)(you)青山(shan)垴(nao),亦(yi)名小(xiao)北臺(tai)(tai)(tai),海(hai)拔1557米,山(shan)上(shang)有(you)(you)(you)一座小(xiao)廟,內供一男(nan)一女兩尊彩(cai)塑,女的(de)清秀端莊(zhuang),謂之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)青山(shan)圣母;男(nan)的(de)魁悟英俊(jun),謂之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)青山(shan)爺爺。4小(xiao)峰(feng)(feng)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)中(zhong)有(you)(you)(you)文(wen)(wen)昌山(shan),亦(yi)名峰(feng)(feng)山(shan),人(ren)稱(cheng)小(xiao)中(zhong)臺(tai)(tai)(tai),海(hai)拔1242米。山(shan)上(shang)有(you)(you)(you)文(wen)(wen)昌廟,山(shan)下(xia)東(dong)(dong)側有(you)(you)(you)明(ming)萬歷年(nian)間、名震中(zhong)州、“天下(xia)清官第二(er)員(yuan)”的(de)楊夢弼墓。
廣濟寺這一元(yuan)代建(jian)筑,為我國(guo)光輝燦爛的古代文化的一部(bu)分。它是研究我國(guo)建(jian)筑史(shi)、雕塑史(shi)的重要實物(wu)資料,也是接待國(guo)內外客人參觀、游覽的重要場所(suo)。