凈(jing)土寺(si)(si),又稱十方廟(miao),現稱天竺寺(si)(si),位于汾(fen)陽市(shi)(shi)東龍觀村東約一(yi)(yi)里處(chu),二進(jin)院落布局,是一(yi)(yi)處(chu)以拱券結構為(wei)(wei)主的(de)古(gu)老佛教建(jian)筑群(qun),始建(jian)年代(dai)不詳,為(wei)(wei)呂(lv)梁市(shi)(shi)重點文物保護單(dan)位。進(jin)入寺(si)(si)廟(miao),香煙裊(niao)裊(niao)、翠柏蒼蒼,佛音(yin)繞(rao)耳、梵語清心,虔誠之心油然而生。本期小微就帶您(nin)走進(jin)汾(fen)陽市(shi)(shi)東龍觀村凈(jing)土寺(si)(si),一(yi)(yi)起感受(shou)彌漫其中的(de)優雅佛韻。
凈(jing)土寺(si),位(wei)于(yu)汾陽(yang)市東(dong)龍觀村東(dong)約(yue)一里處。“凈(jing)土”為(wei)佛(fo)教所認為(wei)的(de)無五(wu)濁垢染清(qing)(qing)凈(jing)世界,【五(wu)濁即是劫濁、見濁、煩惱(nao)濁、眾生(sheng)濁、命濁。五(wu)濁,意指減劫(即人(ren)類(lei)壽命次(ci)第(di)減短之時(shi)代(dai)(dai))中(zhong)所起的(de)五(wu)種滓濁】“十方(fang)”為(wei)佛(fo)教對各個(ge)方(fang)位(wei)的(de)泛(fan)稱,改(gai)名天竺寺(si),據(ju)說是為(wei)了不讓游方(fang)僧人(ren)看到(dao)寺(si)名后駐足不前(qian)。寺(si)內建(jian)筑(zhu)全部都是窯洞,為(wei)典型(xing)的(de)黃土塬地區建(jian)筑(zhu)風格,各處建(jian)筑(zhu)基本完好,除(chu)個(ge)別門面稍有改(gai)動(dong)外(wai)大都依舊。凈(jing)土寺(si)的(de)始(shi)建(jian)年(nian)代(dai)(dai)不詳,有文字可考是在清(qing)(qing)朝乾隆(long)年(nian)間。在寺(si)廟僅存的(de)兩通(tong)石(shi)碑上僅有維(wei)修記載而未見始(shi)建(jian)年(nian)代(dai)(dai),最早的(de)維(wei)修記錄是在唐代(dai)(dai),由此可知此寺(si)廟年(nian)代(dai)(dai)之久遠。據(ju)寺(si)內現(xian)存石(shi)碑記載:清(qing)(qing)乾隆(long)十八年(nian)(1752)增建(jian),20世紀九(jiu)十年(nian)代(dai)(dai)維(wei)修,現(xian)存屬明清(qing)(qing)遺(yi)構。2006年(nian),凈(jing)土寺(si)被確定(ding)為(wei)呂梁市重點(dian)文物保護單位(wei)。
凈土(tu)寺(si)的(de)整(zheng)座院落(luo)(luo)坐北(bei)朝南,二進院落(luo)(luo)布局,寺(si)內建筑以(yi)藏紅色為(wei)(wei)基(ji)調色彩。寺(si)院南北(bei)長98.65米(mi)(mi),東(dong)西寬68.5米(mi)(mi),占地面積為(wei)(wei)6758平方米(mi)(mi)。中軸線上(shang)由南至北(bei)依次存山門(men)(90年(nian)代改建)、過(guo)殿(dian)(窯洞3孔)和正(zheng)殿(dian),兩側存二進院東(dong)西配殿(dian)各七(qi)間(jian)(窯洞)。寺(si)內存清乾隆年(nian)間(jian)“凈土(tu)寺(si)藏經記”和“本(ben)寺(si)新造(zao)普眼天尊兼(jian)造(zao)殿(dian)宇(yu)碑(bei)記”各一通。
凈土(tu)寺(si)寺(si)門朝南,位于寺(si)廟中(zhong)軸線最南端,磚(zhuan)結構,為(wei)圓拱(gong)形,寺(si)門兩(liang)側有(you)(you)“寶剎通四(si)海(hai) 金光正(zheng)十方”楹(ying)聯一副(fu),在(zai)陽光下金光閃閃,佛法普度(du)(du)眾生、福澤四(si)海(hai)的博大之(zhi)感(gan)躍然紙上(shang)。楹(ying)聯下有(you)(you)兩(liang)座石(shi)獅半蹲(dun)于石(shi)墩之(zhi)上(shang),它們身體度(du)(du)著(zhu)一層金色(se),脖(bo)子上(shang)分別系(xi)有(you)(you)紅巾(jin),毛發被一個個螺旋狀的發卷替(ti)代(dai),呈藏(zang)綠色(se),配之(zhi)以憨態(tai)可掬的神情,惟(wei)(wei)妙惟(wei)(wei)肖(xiao),十分可愛。門上(shang)正(zheng)中(zhong)置咸豐十年(1870)匾額(e)一塊,上(shang)鐫“天(tian)竺遺風(feng)”四(si)字,字體瀟(xiao)灑俊逸。山門前有(you)(you)大照壁一座,藍色(se)的墻面上(shang)有(you)(you)“南無阿彌陀佛”、“天(tian)竺寺(si)”幾(ji)個繁體字,金色(se)的字體在(zai)陽光下熠(yi)熠(yi)生輝。
進了寺門,首先映入眼簾的是一條石磚鋪成的道路,磚石錯落有致(zhi),路面干凈整潔。道路兩側(ce)翠柏(bo)蒼蒼,花草留香,走在這條菩提大道上,看四周綠意(yi)盎(ang)然(ran),聽(ting)鳥雀歡(huan)快(kuai)鳴叫,心(xin)境便會(hui)瞬間平(ping)和,一種親切而溫和的感覺也(ye)會(hui)慢慢彌(mi)散出來。
過殿位于中軸線中部,拱券結構,南向帶插廊(lang),共三間,已(yi)改建(jian)。殿內供(gong)奉天(tian)(tian)(tian)王(wang)等六位佛(fo)(fo)(fo)(fo)。殿兩(liang)側有(you)門(men),中間窯(yao)洞以前(qian)供(gong)奉彌勒佛(fo)(fo)(fo)(fo),現已(yi)前(qian)后打通(tong)成(cheng)了進出前(qian)后院(yuan)的過道門(men)洞。據說,窯(yao)頂原(yuan)有(you)小樓閣(ge)一(yi)(yi)座,現已(yi)不復存在。三眼(yan)窯(yao)洞前(qian)有(you)廊(lang)檐,立四(si)根檐柱,東西兩(liang)側各立石(shi)碑一(yi)(yi)塊,一(yi)(yi)為“凈土寺(si)(si)藏經(jing)記(ji)(ji)”,雕龍碑額,時(shi)代(dai)為乾(qian)隆十四(si)年(nian)(1749),通(tong)高約3.7米,額篆(zhuan)書“敕賜龍藏”四(si)字,記(ji)(ji)載本寺(si)(si)屬臨濟宗,描述當地人(ren)杰地靈及建(jian)藏經(jing)樓經(jing)過;一(yi)(yi)為“本寺(si)(si)新(xin)造(zao)普(pu)眼(yan)天(tian)(tian)(tian)尊兼造(zao)殿宇碑記(ji)(ji)”,雕龍碑額,時(shi)代(dai)為乾(qian)隆十八年(nian)(1753),通(tong)高3.23米,詳細的記(ji)(ji)載了寺(si)(si)內修(xiu)建(jian)普(pu)眼(yan)天(tian)(tian)(tian)尊殿經(jing)過,并記(ji)(ji)錄了當時(shi)募化僧人(ren)法名。窯(yao)門(men)兩(liang)側有(you)民(min)國十一(yi)(yi)年(nian)(1922年(nian))夏所(suo)嵌的石(shi)聯(lian)一(yi)(yi)副:“金(jin)繩開覺路,寶(bao)筏渡迷津”,門(men)上(shang)也有(you)匾額,上(shang)書“人(ren)天(tian)(tian)(tian)覺路”,紅底(di)黃字,筆(bi)法遒(qiu)勁(jing),引人(ren)注目。窯(yao)門(men)前(qian)檐柱的楹(ying)聯(lian)上(shang)寫有(you)“佛(fo)(fo)(fo)(fo)日高懸光明世界法輪大(da)轉普(pu)利人(ren)天(tian)(tian)(tian)”,醒目而震撼人(ren)心。窯(yao)門(men)背面的對(dui)聯(lian)“法身(shen)無來無去(qu)隨機緣轉法輪德像非(fei)空非(fei)有(you)應恒沙住寂(ji)光”與窯(yao)門(men)上(shang)方匾額所(suo)書的“成(cheng)佛(fo)(fo)(fo)(fo)之(zhi)道”相對(dui)應,仿佛(fo)(fo)(fo)(fo)在給人(ren)以指引,山重(zhong)水復疑無路的求佛(fo)(fo)(fo)(fo)之(zhi)心便(bian)會剎那間柳暗花(hua)明、豁然(ran)開朗。
過殿(dian)向北(bei)的(de)中軸線兩側為配(pei)殿(dian),東(dong)西(xi)各七(qi)間(jian)(jian)(窯(yao)洞(dong)式(shi)),兩排窯(yao)洞(dong)南端(duan)(duan)與(yu)(yu)過殿(dian)的(de)三(san)(san)眼(yan)窯(yao)洞(dong)連接,北(bei)端(duan)(duan)原來也有(you)(you)小(xiao)門(men)與(yu)(yu)正殿(dian)通連,四周青磚券拱(gong)的(de)窯(yao)洞(dong)相互通聯,組成該寺(si)后院(yuan)。西(xi)配(pei)殿(dian)上(shang)三(san)(san)間(jian)(jian)供僧人、居(ju)士居(ju)住,現在(zai)有(you)(you)僧人約10余位。下(xia)三(san)(san)間(jian)(jian)供奉地藏菩薩,最(zui)南一間(jian)(jian)是(shi)廚(chu)房。東(dong)配(pei)殿(dian)上(shang)三(san)(san)間(jian)(jian)供寺(si)廟負責人接待(dai)香(xiang)客,最(zui)南兩間(jian)(jian)供香(xiang)客用(yong)齋。后院(yuan)上(shang)方(fang)(fang)放置有(you)(you)香(xiang)爐(lu)和一座小(xiao)型寶塔,爐(lu)內插滿香(xiang)客的(de)供香(xiang),青煙繚繞(rao),可(ke)見(jian)香(xiang)客之多(duo)。后院(yuan)下(xia)方(fang)(fang)供奉著一座金身大肚彌(mi)勒佛像,與(yu)(yu)過殿(dian)的(de)門(men)洞(dong)迎面(mian)相對(dui)(dui),他右(you)手握布帶,左手持念珠,笑(xiao)(xiao)容(rong)(rong)滿面(mian),和藹可(ke)親(qin),大肚能容(rong)(rong)容(rong)(rong)天下(xia)難容(rong)(rong)之事,笑(xiao)(xiao)口常開笑(xiao)(xiao)世間(jian)(jian)可(ke)笑(xiao)(xiao)之人,形(xing)象(xiang)很是(shi)生動有(you)(you)趣。當人們進入佛寺(si)中看到這(zhe)一樂呵(he)呵(he)的(de)形(xing)象(xiang),對(dui)(dui)佛門(men)的(de)親(qin)切之感也會(hui)油然而生。
凈土寺最著(zhu)名的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)要屬正(zheng)(zheng)(zheng)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)——大(da)雄(xiong)寶(bao)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)。大(da)雄(xiong)寶(bao)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)位(wei)于中(zhong)軸線最北(bei)端,為坐北(bei)朝(chao)南五(wu)眼窯(yao)(yao)洞(dong)。正(zheng)(zheng)(zheng)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)內(nei)部為兩排(pai)十字通頭(tou)枕頭(tou)窯(yao)(yao),左(zuo)右窯(yao)(yao)窯(yao)(yao)相套,無(wu)梁無(wu)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu),結(jie)構(gou)獨(du)特(te),設計精密(mi),俗稱(cheng)“四十八間(jian)無(wu)梁窯(yao)(yao)”,在佛(fo)教建(jian)筑(zhu)上也(ye)稱(cheng)為無(wu)梁(量)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)。其(qi)入深(shen)(shen)約十五(wu)米(mi),建(jian)筑(zhu)面積(ji)大(da)致在二百(bai)平方(fang)米(mi)左(zuo)右,是汾陽占地(di)面積(ji)最大(da)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)一座古代建(jian)筑(zhu)單(dan)體。窯(yao)(yao)洞(dong)前面設單(dan)坡(po)硬山頂(ding)木(mu)構(gou)插廊七間(jian),明、次(ci)間(jian)皆安四扇六抹公式扇門(新(xin)配),兩稍間(jian)為磚砌窗戶,前檐有(you)六根檐柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu),每(mei)(mei)根直徑7-8寸(cun)(cun),無(wu)斗拱,檐廊簡單(dan)。前居窯(yao)(yao)頂(ding)女兒墻先用扁瓦壘(lei)成(cheng),狀若(ruo)魚鱗(lin)。正(zheng)(zheng)(zheng)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)兩側為磚結(jie)構(gou)樓梯,二層(ceng)原(yuan)有(you)磚木(mu)結(jie)構(gou)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)宇五(wu)間(jian),有(you)廊柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu),兩側有(you)耳房。現在,上層(ceng)建(jian)筑(zhu)已(yi)毀,僅(jin)余柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)礎(chu)。正(zheng)(zheng)(zheng)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)整體力學結(jie)構(gou)合(he)理,布(bu)局寬敞疏朗,具有(you)較高的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)科(ke)學藝(yi)術價值,殿(dian)(dian)(dian)內(nei)尚(shang)有(you)當(dang)年(nian)(nian)僧(seng)人進行(xing)(xing)法事活動的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)痕(hen)(hen)跡。據說,昔時(shi)僧(seng)人們(men)(men)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)法式活動是動功(gong)與(yu)靜(jing)功(gong)結(jie)合(he),每(mei)(mei)天先靜(jing)功(gong)修行(xing)(xing)8小時(shi),然(ran)后繞(rao)行(xing)(xing)釋迦摩尼佛(fo)像圓周(zhou)一小時(shi),稱(cheng)之(zhi)(zhi)為動功(gong),之(zhi)(zhi)后再(zai)靜(jing)功(gong)修行(xing)(xing)8小時(shi)。在正(zheng)(zheng)(zheng)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)地(di)面上,我們(men)(men)還(huan)能看到僧(seng)人們(men)(men)當(dang)年(nian)(nian)繞(rao)圈時(shi)磨下的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)痕(hen)(hen)跡,深(shen)(shen)處有(you)一寸(cun)(cun)多(duo)深(shen)(shen)。寺里的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)師(shi)傅說,他到過(guo)許(xu)多(duo)寺廟(miao),但磨痕(hen)(hen)如此之(zhi)(zhi)深(shen)(shen)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)寺廟(miao)幾乎沒(mei)有(you)見過(guo)。這也(ye)從(cong)另一個方(fang)面說明凈土寺確實歷(li)史悠久。正(zheng)(zheng)(zheng)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)兩側通頭(tou)放著(zhu)禪床,是僧(seng)人誦(song)經做功(gong)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)地(di)方(fang)。正(zheng)(zheng)(zheng)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)共(gong)供(gong)有(you)佛(fo)像18尊,正(zheng)(zheng)(zheng)中(zhong)供(gong)奉(feng)(feng)釋迦牟尼佛(fo),其(qi)后供(gong)奉(feng)(feng)東、西、南、北(bei)、中(zhong)一共(gong)五(wu)佛(fo),殿(dian)(dian)(dian)內(nei)左(zuo)右兩側各供(gong)奉(feng)(feng)六位(wei)菩(pu)薩,滿(man)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)香煙(yan)繚(liao)繞(rao),地(di)上滿(man)是跪墊,香客絡(luo)繹不(bu)絕。