婺(wu)源靈(ling)巖風景區(qu)是(shi)(shi)一(yi)(yi)個(ge)集自然(ran)與人文(wen)景觀(guan)為一(yi)(yi)體(ti)的(de)(de)風景名勝區(qu)。靈(ling)巖古洞(dong)(dong)(dong)群以基巖景觀(guan)為主(zhu),是(shi)(shi)由于流(liu)水(shui)對石灰(hui)巖的(de)(de)溶(rong)蝕(shi)以及地質的(de)(de)變遷(qian)而形成的(de)(de)石灰(hui)巖溶(rong)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)。由于景觀(guan)成因與國內一(yi)(yi)般的(de)(de)溶(rong)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)截然(ran)不(bu)同,全國罕見,靈(ling)巖洞(dong)(dong)(dong)群因此被(bei)稱為“溶(rong)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)之母(mu)”。靈(ling)巖古洞(dong)(dong)(dong)群不(bu)僅巖溶(rong)景觀(guan)奇絕天下,道(dao)(dao)教文(wen)化更是(shi)(shi)繁榮鼎盛、源遠流(liu)長。靈(ling)巖古洞(dong)(dong)(dong)群所在(zai)的(de)(de)通源觀(guan)村是(shi)(shi)道(dao)(dao)教的(de)(de)發(fa)祥地之一(yi)(yi)。靈(ling)巖古洞(dong)(dong)(dong)群保存了2000多處歷代名人的(de)(de)題(ti)墨、題(ti)刻,被(bei)譽為“溶(rong)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)文(wen)化長廊”。
靈巖(yan)洞(dong)景區目(mu)前已開發涵(han)虛、蓮華二個溶洞(dong)。涵(han)虛洞(dong)上(shang)下(xia)七(qi)層,愈(yu)下(xia)愈(yu)空愈(yu)險(xian),景觀也愈(yu)多(duo)愈(yu)奇。洞(dong)腹中飛云騰涌,巖(yan)瀑(pu)橫陳(chen),鐘乳倒懸(xuan),石(shi)筍擎天(tian),造(zao)型(xing)奇異(yi)。巖(yan)形栩栩如生,底層與(yu)地下(xia)河相通(tong)。洞(dong)內流水潺潺,波光倒影,乘舟暢游,別有(you)一番情趣。洞(dong)壁保留(liu)著(zhu)唐代以(yi)來(lai)游人題墨200多(duo)處(chu),蔚為壯觀。
蓮華洞為(wei)大廳(ting)狀,高(gao)大寬敞(chang),可容(rong)千人,雄(xiong)偉壯(zhuang)觀,廳(ting)西有7米高(gao)的石山,形似太上老君(jun),圓首豐腰(yao),寬額隆(long)背,銀發披肩(jian),袍(pao)袖折旋,一手纏龍,一手托金(jin)丹葫蘆。
由(you)通元觀(guan)村(cun)溯源而(er)(er)上(shang),便是(shi)卿(qing)云(yun)洞(dong)(dong)。洞(dong)(dong)門軒敞,高30米(mi),寬45米(mi)。洞(dong)(dong)中(zhong)幽深高廣,穹頂(ding)光怪陸離。有(you)河貫穿而(er)(er)過,河長(chang)500米(mi),水清壁,可通竹筏。涉水進洞(dong)(dong),再(zai)登上(shang)釣臺,臺面寬約數十平方米(mi)。這些溶洞(dong)(dong)中(zhong),最為壯觀(guan)的是(shi)翠靈洞(dong)(dong),主(zhu)洞(dong)(dong)長(chang)700多米(mi),是(shi)下(xia)(xia)一步開發的重點。溶洞(dong)(dong)內如花(hua)(hua)似錦,銀雕玉砌,絢麗多姿(zi)的石(shi)枝映照著清澈的地下(xia)(xia)水塘,千(qian)姿(zi)百(bai)態的石(shi)花(hua)(hua),有(you)針狀(zhuang)、團狀(zhuang)、雪花(hua)(hua)狀(zhuang)如花(hua)(hua)怒(nu)放;小巧玲(ling)瓏的石(shi)燈(deng),晶瑩(ying)含露,鑲嵌在洞(dong)(dong)穴。
在通源觀村(cun)南馬山(shan)山(shan)腰,洞長(chang)680公(gong)尺(chi),面積7200平方公(gong)尺(chi)。游(you)(you)(you)程2100公(gong)尺(chi),上下(xia)七層(ceng)(ceng),以(yi)空見奇,在洞內(nei)月門(men)對面巖上有(you)“第一東南洞,歷(li)觀唐宋游(you)(you)(you)”十個(ge)大字。在第三層(ceng)(ceng)洞中(zhong)(zhong),無愧是(shi)“翰(han)墨(mo)遺香(xiang)”,兩壁遍布歷(li)代游(you)(you)(you)人(ren)題記、詩(shi)歌。在長(chang)達數拾(shi)米(mi)高(gao)的(de)石幔,小到僅容(rong)人(ren)身(shen)的(de)洞窟,無一不(bu)是(shi)古人(ren)墨(mo)跡,重疊覆蓋(gai),難以(yi)數計,至今還能辨認的(de)不(bu)下(xia)一千余處,其中(zhong)(zhong)有(you)唐會(hui)昌(chang)四(si)年(公(gong)元844年)靈巖開山(shan)始祖(zu)鄭(zheng)全福(fu)題記,御史中(zhong)(zhong)丞盧潘、宋四(si)川夔州路提刑王汝舟、詞人(ren)王炎(yan)、東京留守宗澤、明兵(bing)科(ke)給事中(zhong)(zhong)戴銑、太仆寺卿余一龍、舍人(ren)余鳴盛(sheng)、清科(ke)學家齊(qi)彥槐、施璜等(deng)名人(ren)和1922年外國游(you)(you)(you)客題墨(mo),及部分紅軍(jun)、新四(si)軍(jun)的(de)一些標語都非常引人(ren)注目。漫步其間,如置身(shen)于書法長(chang)廊。
距(ju)通源觀村約300公(gong)尺左右(you)。《婺源縣志(zhi)》謂(wei):“涵虛洞上別(bie)有(you)重洞”,“如(ru)屋之有(you)樓”即指(zhi)此處。洞長400公(gong)尺,內(nei)多宋代(dai)以來(lai)題(ti)墨,有(you)南宋紹興(xing)三年(nian)(nian)(公(gong)元1133年(nian)(nian))岳飛(fei)征討李成時(shi),用兵器刻劃“岳飛(fei)過此”四(si)字,忠誠在此間(jian)(jian),至今憑(ping)吊者,如(ru)見岳家山”。還有(you)南宋紹興(xing)二十(shi)年(nian)(nian)(公(gong)元1150年(nian)(nian))名(ming)將(jiang)張(zhang)俊題(ti)名(ming),清嘉慶年(nian)(nian)間(jian)(jian)科(ke)學家、詩(shi)人(ren)齊彥(yan)槐題(ti)詩(shi):“乘興(xing)來(lai)尋小洞天,瑯環無處問(wen)金編,姓(xing)名(ming)敢乞山靈護,留向人(ren)間(jian)(jian)五百年(nian)(nian)。”清天文學家余煌的題(ti)詩(shi):“我(wo)身本(ben)是洞中人(ren),一(yi)落塵寰三十(shi)春,儒服儒冠彼束縛,桃花(hua)孤負仙(xian)源津(jin)。”在洞頂有(you)數尺見方的“張(zhang)較彥(yan)直”和(he)“伯成質夫”等宋人(ren)八(ba)個空心飛(fei)白(bai)打字,抑首倒書(shu)頂壁,如(ru)此瀟灑(sa)蒼勁(jing),堪稱奇(qi)跡,令人(ren)叫絕。
在通(tong)元觀村后。洞(dong)內多蓮狀乳石而得名,此(ci)洞(dong)以景見奇。唐開成年間,道(dao)士鄭全福(fu)建觀前修真于(yu)此(ci)。洞(dong)中留下(xia)歷(li)代墨跡數百處(chu),以迷(mi)宮處(chu)為最。唐代詩(shi)人(ren)獨(du)孤筠曾題詩(shi)贊此(ci)洞(dong):“路回千曲(qu)繞芝田(tian),羽客相攜訪謫仙。石竇嵌空唯有跡,靈(ling)龕隱(yin)軫莫知年。來居洞(dong)里長無死,不(bu)出人(ren)間自(zi)有天。更欲不(bu)眠吟至曉,恐(kong)驚(jing)龍動起愁煙。”
由(you)通元觀村沿溪往東北(bei),見絕壁微裂(lie)一隙便是(shi)此(ci)洞。縣志載:此(ci)洞“千態萬(wan)狀,神(shen)雕鬼琢(zhuo)”,鐘乳石“奇秀如云,若(ruo)蓮如芝”,故名(ming)。洞中(zhong)地勢奇險,只能往北(bei)回(hui)環盤(pan)旋而下。洞廳中(zhong)左側有(you)(you)(you)巨石,壁面平整如鏡,成了古人題(ti)(ti)墨(mo)最佳之處,其(qi)中(zhong)有(you)(you)(you)“宋嘉熙三年(nian)(nian)(公元1239年(nian)(nian))太(tai)祖皇帝十一世(shi)孫(sun)趙而忌”,“宋宣和七年(nian)(nian)(公元1125年(nian)(nian))宣和殿大學士(shi)何執中(zhong)同男何鑄(刑部侍郎)”的題(ti)(ti)名(ming),洞廳東南(nan)有(you)(you)(you)一洞廊,廊側一處石幔如簾(lian)垂(chui)地,簾(lian)壁留有(you)(you)(you)南(nan)宋淳熙三年(nian)(nian)(公元1176年(nian)(nian))著(zhu)名(ming)理(li)學家(jia)朱(zhu)熹回(hui)婺掃墓(mu)時(shi)在(zai)此(ci)題(ti)(ti)墨(mo)“吳徽朱(zhu)熹”及由(you)蓮房花柱上題(ti)(ti)“晦翁”二字(zi)(zi)。另有(you)(you)(you)清嘉慶翰林編修董桂敷題(ti)(ti)“奇觀”二字(zi)(zi)。
靈巖(yan)洞風景(jing)名勝區位于(yu)江西省婺(wu)源縣北(bei)(bei)(bei)五十(shi)公里的(de)大(da)鄣山(shan)(shan)鄉(xiang)西北(bei)(bei)(bei)部(bu),北(bei)(bei)(bei)與(yu)安徽(hui)休寧(ning)縣接(jie)壤,西與(yu)景(jing)德鎮(zhen)遙里風景(jing)名勝區毗連,北(bei)(bei)(bei)靠世(shi)界級旅游風景(jing)區黃山(shan)(shan),雄踞皖贛兩(liang)省。景(jing)區范圍北(bei)(bei)(bei)至西山(shan)(shan)牛頭山(shan)(shan)麓下,西北(bei)(bei)(bei)至婺(wu)源景(jing)德鎮(zhen)縣界,南至和村的(de)九鬮,東至古村菊徑、西至石城山(shan)(shan)戴村。
靈巖洞風景區所在婺(wu)源(yuan)縣古屬(shu)徽州,唐開元28年(nian)(nian)(nian)為府治。人(ren)文之(zhi)風,始于東晉(jin)亂(luan)世之(zhi)北(bei)方士族南(nan)遷(qian),至(zhi)南(nan)宋文風日盛,以“東南(nan)鄒魯”聞名。婺(wu)源(yuan)地處偏(pian)僻山(shan)(shan)區,山(shan)(shan)水秀麗(li),險阻天(tian)成,故古來兵革(ge)少到,還(huan)保有(you)完整古民居和純(chun)樸的民風民俗。從唐代建觀(guan)始,唐開成三年(nian)(nian)(nian)(公元839年(nian)(nian)(nian))道士鄭全(quan)福發現靈巖洞群,修煉于此,并留有(you)題墨,取名洞靈觀(guan)。南(nan)宋紹興(xing)五(wu)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(公園1136年(nian)(nian)(nian))該觀(guan)道士進一步(bu)擴(kuo)建,改為通元觀(guan)。
靈(ling)(ling)巖(yan)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)群取(qu)名“靈(ling)(ling)巖(yan)",即(ji)來自(zi)道教的“空靈(ling)(ling)”之(zhi)(zhi)說。洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)群所在(zai)地(di)(di)名“通(tong)(tong)(tong)元(yuan)(yuan)”,也(ye)來自(zi)道教宗義。據《辭海》中(zhong)(zhong)解釋,“通(tong)(tong)(tong)”者,洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)也(ye);“元(yuan)(yuan)”者,始(shi)也(ye)、長也(ye)、大也(ye)、善也(ye)。先天(tian)(tian)之(zhi)(zhi)氣(qi)也(ye)。道家(jia)認為(wei),“元(yuan)(yuan)”即(ji)“氣(qi)”。此氣(qi)化(hua)為(wei)開辟(pi)世界之(zhi)(zhi)人,即(ji)為(wei)盤古,化(hua)為(wei)主持天(tian)(tian)界之(zhi)(zhi)祖,即(ji)為(wei)元(yuan)(yuan)始(shi)天(tian)(tian)尊。為(wei)了修(xiu)(xiu)道成仙(xian),地(di)(di)上(shang)神(shen)(shen)(shen)仙(xian)之(zhi)(zhi)入住(zhu)“洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)天(tian)(tian)福(fu)(fu)地(di)(di)”,是因為(wei)[洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)]即(ji)[通(tong)(tong)(tong)],洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)中(zhong)(zhong)修(xiu)(xiu)煉可(ke)(ke)與神(shen)(shen)(shen)仙(xian)接(jie)通(tong)(tong)(tong),與天(tian)(tian)界相通(tong)(tong)(tong);福(fu)(fu)的意思是幸福(fu)(fu)吉祥,居(ju)福(fu)(fu)地(di)(di)可(ke)(ke)長生不死。道家(jia)將洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)天(tian)(tian)福(fu)(fu)地(di)(di)分(fen)為(wei)十(shi)大洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)天(tian)(tian)、三十(shi)六小洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)天(tian)(tian)、七十(shi)二福(fu)(fu)地(di)(di)。通(tong)(tong)(tong)元(yuan)(yuan)、求元(yuan)(yuan)即(ji)可(ke)(ke)實(shi)現清凈無為(wei),天(tian)(tian)人合一,是做人的最高(gao)境界。“通(tong)(tong)(tong)元(yuan)(yuan)”之(zhi)(zhi)意,是向人明示,洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)中(zhong)(zhong)通(tong)(tong)(tong)元(yuan)(yuan),元(yuan)(yuan)在(zai)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)中(zhong)(zhong),靈(ling)(ling)巖(yan)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)群就是修(xiu)(xiu)真(zhen)求元(yuan)(yuan)、與神(shen)(shen)(shen)勾通(tong)(tong)(tong)的清涼(liang)世界。由此可(ke)(ke)見,“靈(ling)(ling)巖(yan)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)群”和“通(tong)(tong)(tong)元(yuan)(yuan)道觀”,實(shi)際上(shang)都(dou)是道教文化(hua)在(zai)這里的兩種(zhong)表達(da)方式。
靈(ling)巖洞(dong)(dong)群(qun)早在唐朝就已(yi)(yi)經成(cheng)為游(you)覽(lan)勝地,洞(dong)(dong)群(qun)勝況載入南(nan)宋(song)(song)祝穆著(zhu)的(de)(de)(de)《方輿勝覽(lan)》,明代(dai)弘治(zhi)《徽州府志》,流譽人(ren)間,吸引了(le)無數游(you)客來(lai)(lai)此觀(guan)賞。至今(jin)各洞(dong)(dong)仍保(bao)留著(zhu)唐、宋(song)(song)以(yi)來(lai)(lai)名人(ren)和(he)游(you)客刻(ke)墨二千多處,它(ta)始(shi)于(yu)晚唐、盛于(yu)北宋(song)(song),距今(jin)一(yi)(yi)千多年(nian)歷(li)史,是(shi)(shi)祖國珍(zhen)貴的(de)(de)(de)文(wen)(wen)化(hua)遺產。因(yin)(yin)此千百年(nian)來(lai)(lai),不(bu)(bu)知多少名人(ren)墨客為之折腰。現(xian)在洞(dong)(dong)群(qun)內保(bao)留有(you)唐代(dai)以(yi)來(lai)(lai)的(de)(de)(de)游(you)客題(ti)墨2000余(yu)(yu)處,朱(zhu)熹、岳飛、岳飛的(de)(de)(de)老師宗澤、齊彥槐、何執中、張大(da)直、張浚、戴銑、余(yu)(yu)一(yi)(yi)龍等名人(ren)都洞(dong)(dong)內留有(you)親(qin)筆手跡,實為國內罕見。這(zhe)些題(ti)墨大(da)多是(shi)(shi)慕名前來(lai)(lai)游(you)覽(lan)的(de)(de)(de)名人(ren)墨客的(de)(de)(de)即興之作,如(ru)今(jin)已(yi)(yi)成(cheng)為國家重要的(de)(de)(de)歷(li)史文(wen)(wen)物,也成(cheng)為靈(ling)巖洞(dong)(dong)群(qun)的(de)(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)大(da)絕景(jing)。在這(zhe)里題(ti)墨的(de)(de)(de)不(bu)(bu)只是(shi)(shi)歷(li)代(dai)游(you)人(ren),甚(shen)至有(you)紅(hong)軍游(you)擊隊隊長張劍(jian)超親(qin)筆所(suo)題(ti)的(de)(de)(de)“克服困難”、“全世界無產階級聯合起來(lai)(lai)”、“人(ren)民有(you)了(le)光明”等革命宣傳標(biao)語。這(zhe)些題(ti)墨是(shi)(shi)珍(zhen)貴的(de)(de)(de)歷(li)史文(wen)(wen)物,是(shi)(shi)一(yi)(yi)道(dao)豐(feng)富的(de)(de)(de)文(wen)(wen)化(hua)盛宴,因(yin)(yin)此靈(ling)巖洞(dong)(dong)被世人(ren)公認為“溶(rong)洞(dong)(dong)文(wen)(wen)化(hua)長廊”。婺源靈(ling)巖洞(dong)(dong)憑天(tian)地造化(hua),借名賢圣儒墨刻(ke)造就了(le)江南(nan)第一(yi)(yi)洞(dong)(dong)天(tian)之美(mei)譽。
清咸豐(feng)八(ba)年(公(gong)元1859年)由于文人(ren)墨(mo)客、達官貴人(ren)蜂擁而至,弄得(de)民怨眾怒,連夜堵洞,不傳后代。有“三巖(yan)(yan)九洞絕塵寰”盛譽的靈巖(yan)(yan)古洞及名(ming)人(ren)刻墨(mo)從此(ci)銷聲匿跡,鮮(xian)為(wei)人(ren)知。