羽絨服(fu)制作材料有哪些 定(ding)做羽絨服(fu)流程

羽絨服制作材料有哪些

羽絨服的材(cai)料主要是羽絨和涂層織物(wu)。

①羽絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)：小羽片和(he)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子(zi)(也稱(cheng)朵絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong))的(de)(de)混(hun)合物。 前者(zhe)稱(cheng)羽，后者(zhe)稱(cheng)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)。多(duo)用鴨和(he)鵝的(de)(de)毛，經選洗(xi)分離出小羽片和(he)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子(zi)用作羽絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)服(fu)的(de)(de)絮料。羽絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)有灰白(bai)兩種，白(bai)者(zhe)為(wei)佳(jia)。羽絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)服(fu)的(de)(de)質量(liang)(liang)(liang)與充(chong)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)和(he)含絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)有關。充(chong)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)指(zhi)(zhi)一件羽絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)服(fu)絮進的(de)(de)羽絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)重量(liang)(liang)(liang)，用克(ke)表示，一般為(wei)250克(ke)左右,充(chong)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)少,保(bao)暖性(xing)差；含絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)指(zhi)(zhi)羽絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)中絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子(zi)的(de)(de)含量(liang)(liang)(liang),用百分比表示，一般含絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)為(wei)50～80％。含絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)高，則質量(liang)(liang)(liang)好。因絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子(zi)能使人(ren)體熱量(liang)(liang)(liang)不(bu)易散失,且手感柔軟,但(dan)當(dang)受壓和(he)遇濕后不(bu)易及(ji)時(shi)鼓起，而小羽片此時(shi)則能使衣服(fu)蓬松鼓起以保(bao)持衣內(nei)有較多(duo)的(de)(de)空氣(qi)，有助保(bao)暖,但(dan)小羽片多(duo)了,熱量(liang)(liang)(liang)易流散，且有毛梗感。所以絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子(zi)和(he)小羽片必(bi)須兼收并(bing)蓄，比例得當(dang)。

②涂(tu)層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)選用(yong)經(jing)(jing)(jing)(jing)緯(wei)紗高(gao)密的(de)絲(si)綢(chou)、棉布、棉滌(di)等(deng)織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)，經(jing)(jing)(jing)(jing)軋壓處理，使(shi)經(jing)(jing)(jing)(jing)緯(wei)紗之間(jian)的(de)空(kong)隙(xi)縮小，再涂(tu)以高(gao)分子漿(jiang)料(liao)，使(shi)之與織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)形成(cheng)交鏈的(de)透(tou)明皮膜覆蓋層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)，以封閉織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)經(jing)(jing)(jing)(jing)緯(wei)間(jian)隙(xi)。有的(de)在(zai)涂(tu)層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)漿(jiang)料(liao)內加入氟磷樹脂(zhi)或有機(ji)硅類防水(shui)劑，使(shi)織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)具有防露絨(rong)(rong)、防滲水(shui)的(de)性能。20世紀80年代已有不經(jing)(jing)(jing)(jing)涂(tu)層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)的(de)特制(zhi)超高(gao)密織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)，同樣能起到防露絨(rong)(rong)、防滲水(shui)和(he)透(tou)氣的(de)作(zuo)用(yong)。用(yong)于羽絨(rong)(rong)服的(de)織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)分硬性、軟性二(er)類。滌(di)府(fu)、滌(di)卡、棉布屬(shu)硬性類，穿著(zhu)平整(zheng)；真絲(si)塔府(fu)綢(chou)、尼絲(si)紡屬(shu)軟性類，穿著(zhu)柔軟舒適。

定做羽絨服流程

1、線路參考樣衣及圖紙；

2、針距：11-13針/3cm明(ming)線跡，12-14針/3cm暗線跡。合縫用(yong)11#機針(zhen)，引線用9#機(ji)針；

3、線順色（特殊要求除外），面(mian)線用與身順色線；

4、各部(bu)位線(xian)(xian)路要(yao)順直，縫紉線(xian)(xian)跡30cm內不(bu)得有(you)兩處(chu)單跳和(he)連續跳針，包(bao)縫線跡不(bu)允許(xu)跳針。面、底線應松(song)緊適宜(yi)，起落(luo)都要打回針；

5、袖子抽(chou)(chou)褶：先在單衣片上(shang)抽(chou)(chou)褶，然后再充絨(rong)納(na)線(xian)。抽(chou)(chou)褶線(xian)與(yu)肩(jian)縫對縫；

6、汽眼加(jia)隔色墊布；

7、大身(shen)拉鏈(lian)要求(qiu)平(ping)整，不可起浪。門(men)襟鏈(lian)拉頭要求(qiu)左(zuo)拉右插(cha)，緝(ji)0.1cm明線；

8、主標(biao)、小號釘(ding)在(zai)內里后(hou)中；水洗標(biao)在(zai)內里左(zuo)側縫(feng)1/2處為標下口；

9、所有(you)里(li)子(zi)拼接縫要求(qiu)包(bao)縫；

10、袖口內(nei)面布為(wei)勾縫；

11、兜口(kou)1CM裝飾明(ming)線先充絨后輯明(ming)線；

12、棉靠里布(bu)，帽子周(zhou)圈走0.1cm明線(xian)，帽(mao)子前(qian)口0.1+2.5cm明線。帽子底口0.1明線。帽(mao)縫(feng)帶帶條。具體(ti)納線參考圖紙

13、肩縫、腋(ye)下、兜布(bu)加帶條；

14、半成品必須(xu)小(xiao)燙，熨燙平服(fu)，無極光；

15、其他具體做(zuo)法參考(kao)樣衣。