羽絨(rong)服制作(zuo)材料(liao)有哪些 定做羽絨(rong)服流程

羽絨服制作材料有哪些

羽絨服的材料主(zhu)要(yao)是羽絨和涂層(ceng)織(zhi)物。

①羽(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)：小(xiao)羽(yu)(yu)片(pian)和(he)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子(也稱朵絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong))的(de)混合物(wu)。 前(qian)者(zhe)稱羽(yu)(yu)，后(hou)者(zhe)稱絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)。多用(yong)鴨和(he)鵝(e)的(de)毛(mao)，經選洗(xi)分(fen)離出小(xiao)羽(yu)(yu)片(pian)和(he)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子用(yong)作羽(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)服(fu)(fu)的(de)絮料。羽(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)有(you)(you)灰(hui)白兩種，白者(zhe)為(wei)佳。羽(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)服(fu)(fu)的(de)質(zhi)量與充(chong)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量和(he)含(han)(han)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量有(you)(you)關(guan)。充(chong)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量指一件羽(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)服(fu)(fu)絮進(jin)的(de)羽(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)重量，用(yong)克(ke)表(biao)示，一般(ban)為(wei)250克(ke)左右,充(chong)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量少,保暖性差；含(han)(han)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量指羽(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)中(zhong)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子的(de)含(han)(han)量,用(yong)百分(fen)比(bi)(bi)表(biao)示，一般(ban)含(han)(han)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量為(wei)50～80％。含(han)(han)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量高，則(ze)質(zhi)量好。因絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子能(neng)使(shi)人體熱量不(bu)(bu)易散失(shi),且手感柔(rou)軟(ruan),但(dan)當受壓和(he)遇濕后(hou)不(bu)(bu)易及時鼓起，而小(xiao)羽(yu)(yu)片(pian)此時則(ze)能(neng)使(shi)衣服(fu)(fu)蓬松鼓起以保持衣內(nei)有(you)(you)較多的(de)空氣(qi)，有(you)(you)助保暖,但(dan)小(xiao)羽(yu)(yu)片(pian)多了,熱量易流散，且有(you)(you)毛(mao)梗感。所以絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子和(he)小(xiao)羽(yu)(yu)片(pian)必須兼收并蓄，比(bi)(bi)例得當。

②涂(tu)(tu)層(ceng)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物選用(yong)經(jing)(jing)緯紗(sha)高密的(de)(de)絲綢、棉(mian)布、棉(mian)滌(di)等織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物，經(jing)(jing)軋壓處理，使經(jing)(jing)緯紗(sha)之間的(de)(de)空隙(xi)縮小，再涂(tu)(tu)以高分子漿料(liao)，使之與織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物形(xing)成交(jiao)鏈的(de)(de)透明皮(pi)膜覆蓋層(ceng)，以封閉(bi)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物經(jing)(jing)緯間隙(xi)。有(you)的(de)(de)在涂(tu)(tu)層(ceng)漿料(liao)內(nei)加入氟磷樹(shu)脂或有(you)機(ji)硅(gui)類(lei)(lei)防(fang)水(shui)劑，使織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物具(ju)有(you)防(fang)露絨(rong)、防(fang)滲水(shui)的(de)(de)性(xing)(xing)(xing)能。20世紀80年代(dai)已有(you)不經(jing)(jing)涂(tu)(tu)層(ceng)的(de)(de)特制超高密織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物，同(tong)樣能起到防(fang)露絨(rong)、防(fang)滲水(shui)和透氣的(de)(de)作(zuo)用(yong)。用(yong)于羽絨(rong)服的(de)(de)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物分硬性(xing)(xing)(xing)、軟(ruan)性(xing)(xing)(xing)二類(lei)(lei)。滌(di)府(fu)、滌(di)卡、棉(mian)布屬硬性(xing)(xing)(xing)類(lei)(lei)，穿著平整；真絲塔(ta)府(fu)綢、尼絲紡屬軟(ruan)性(xing)(xing)(xing)類(lei)(lei)，穿著柔軟(ruan)舒適。

定做羽絨服流程

1、線路參考樣衣及圖(tu)紙；

2、針距：11-13針/3cm明線跡，12-14針/3cm暗線跡。合縫用11#機針(zhen)，引(yin)線用9#機針；

3、線(xian)順色（特殊要求除(chu)外），面線(xian)用與身(shen)順色線(xian)；

4、各(ge)部位線路要順(shun)直，縫紉線跡30cm內不(bu)得(de)有兩處單跳和連續(xu)跳針，包縫線(xian)跡不(bu)允(yun)許跳針。面、底(di)線(xian)應松緊適宜，起落都要打(da)回(hui)針；

5、袖子(zi)抽褶(zhe)(zhe)：先在單衣片上(shang)抽褶(zhe)(zhe)，然后再(zai)充(chong)絨(rong)納線。抽褶(zhe)(zhe)線與(yu)肩縫對縫；

6、汽(qi)眼加隔色墊布；

7、大(da)身(shen)拉鏈(lian)要求平整，不可起浪。門襟鏈(lian)拉頭要求左拉右(you)插(cha)，緝(ji)0.1cm明線；

8、主標、小號釘在內里后中(zhong)；水洗(xi)標在內里左側縫1/2處為標下(xia)口；

9、所有里(li)子拼接縫要求包縫；

10、袖口內面布為勾縫(feng)；

11、兜(dou)口1CM裝飾明(ming)線先充絨后輯明(ming)線；

12、棉靠里布(bu)，帽子周(zhou)圈走(zou)0.1cm明線，帽(mao)子前口0.1+2.5cm明(ming)線(xian)。帽子(zi)底口0.1明(ming)線(xian)。帽縫帶帶條。具體納線(xian)參考(kao)圖紙

13、肩(jian)縫、腋(ye)下、兜布加帶(dai)條；

14、半(ban)成品(pin)必(bi)須小燙(tang)，熨(yun)燙(tang)平服，無極光；

15、其他(ta)具體做法參考樣衣。