中老年服裝裁剪圖(tu) 青中老年體的服裝剪裁方法

裁剪最主要的是公式(shi)的取值及公式(shi)的合理性。沒有一個較為(wei)標準的公式(shi)來定位，也給工業制板造成一定的難度，為(wei)了便(bian)于掌(zhang)握公式(shi)的運用技巧，應(ying)從以下幾個方面來分析：

公(gong)式(shi)與年(nian)(nian)(nian)齡(ling)、體(ti)(ti)型的分(fen)析(xi)在正常體(ti)(ti)型下，按年(nian)(nian)(nian)齡(ling)分(fen)為青(qing)年(nian)(nian)(nian)體(ti)(ti)、中年(nian)(nian)(nian)體(ti)(ti)、老年(nian)(nian)(nian)體(ti)(ti)。在設置(zhi)公(gong)式(shi)時(shi)要根據不同年(nian)(nian)(nian)齡(ling)來設置(zhi)。

青中老年體的服裝剪裁方法

1、青年人體型

青年(nian)人(ren)體型(xing)差(cha)異小，圍度的(de)變化幅度也小，但(dan)因身高有(you)一定的(de)差(cha)異在運用(yong)公式上增檔值略大一些，如袖(xiu)籠深、袖(xiu)開深、肩高、立襠(dang)等。

2、中年體的體型

中(zhong)年(nian)體(ti)的體(ti)型(xing)差異(yi)較(jiao)(jiao)大(da)，圍(wei)(wei)度(du)(du)(du)的變(bian)(bian)化(hua)幅度(du)(du)(du)也較(jiao)(jiao)大(da)則增(zeng)(zeng)(zeng)(zeng)(zeng)襠值應(ying)小一些，而老年(nian)人(ren)(ren)圍(wei)(wei)度(du)(du)(du)變(bian)(bian)化(hua)大(da)，體(ti)型(xing)差異(yi)更大(da)，增(zeng)(zeng)(zeng)(zeng)(zeng)襠值應(ying)更小些，增(zeng)(zeng)(zeng)(zeng)(zeng)襠值是指一個(ge)公(gong)式用(yong)2/10的圍(wei)(wei)度(du)(du)(du)來計算(suan)的話，那(nei)么圍(wei)(wei)度(du)(du)(du)每增(zeng)(zeng)(zeng)(zeng)(zeng)加(jia)(jia)lcm時深(shen)度(du)(du)(du)增(zeng)(zeng)(zeng)(zeng)(zeng)加(jia)(jia)0.2cm;運(yun)(yun)用(yong)1.5/10圍(wei)(wei)度(du)(du)(du)增(zeng)(zeng)(zeng)(zeng)(zeng)加(jia)(jia)lcm時深(shen)度(du)(du)(du)增(zeng)(zeng)(zeng)(zeng)(zeng)加(jia)(jia)0.15cm;運(yun)(yun)用(yong)1/10圍(wei)(wei)度(du)(du)(du)則增(zeng)(zeng)(zeng)(zeng)(zeng)加(jia)(jia)0.1cm，由些可(ke)見(jian)，青年(nian)人(ren)(ren)圍(wei)(wei)度(du)(du)(du)的變(bian)(bian)化(hua)幅度(du)(du)(du)較(jiao)(jiao)小，運(yun)(yun)用(yong)2/10B+定數(shu)(shu)來計算(suan)袖籠深(shen)較(jiao)(jiao)為合適。而中(zhong)年(nian)人(ren)(ren)變(bian)(bian)化(hua)幅度(du)(du)(du)較(jiao)(jiao)大(da)運(yun)(yun)用(yong)1.8/10B+定數(shu)(shu)或1.5/lOB圍(wei)(wei)度(du)(du)(du)+定數(shu)(shu)。

3、老年體的體型

老年(nian)人圍(wei)(wei)度(du)(du)變(bian)化(hua)幅(fu)度(du)(du)特別大(da)。就(jiu)胸圍(wei)(wei)而(er)言胸圍(wei)(wei)最小的(de)在(zai)95cm左(zuo)右(you)，大(da)的(de)在(zai)120cm左(zuo)右(you)甚至(zhi)更大(da)些，這樣的(de)變(bian)化(hua)幅(fu)度(du)(du)，如運(yun)用2/10B定數(shu)(shu)(shu)來計算，胸圍(wei)(wei)每增(zeng)(zeng)(zeng)加lcm袖籠(long)深增(zeng)(zeng)(zeng)加0.2cm;每增(zeng)(zeng)(zeng)加2.5cm，袖籠(long)深就(jiu)增(zeng)(zeng)(zeng)加5cm。如此計算，袖籠(long)的(de)增(zeng)(zeng)(zeng)襠速度(du)(du)太(tai)快，不適(shi)合老年(nian)體，因(yin)此應(ying)該運(yun)用1.5/l0B胸圍(wei)(wei)+定數(shu)(shu)(shu)或(huo)運(yun)用1/10B加定數(shu)(shu)(shu)才行。一般(ban)情況下號(hao)碼(ma)越(yue)少，增(zeng)(zeng)(zeng)襠速度(du)(du)越(yue)快，號(hao)碼(ma)越(yue)多，則適(shi)應(ying)面越(yue)廣，增(zeng)(zeng)(zeng)襠速度(du)(du)也慢。