祝融(rong)(rong)峰(feng)(feng)位(wei)于湖(hu)南省衡陽市南岳區(qu)的南岳衡山(shan),挺(ting)拔突起(qi),高出(chu)芙蓉、紫蓋、天(tian)柱、祥光(guang)、煙霞、軫宿諸峰(feng)(feng)之上,祝融(rong)(rong)峰(feng)(feng),海拔1300.2米(mi),高聳云霄,雄峙南天(tian),是南岳衡山(shan)72峰(feng)(feng)的主峰(feng)(feng)。
南岳諸(zhu)多景觀中,祝融峰(feng)(feng)之(zhi)(zhi)高,方廣寺之(zhi)(zhi)深,藏經殿之(zhi)(zhi)秀,水(shui)簾洞之(zhi)(zhi)奇(qi),歷(li)來被稱為“四絕”。峰(feng)(feng)頭(tou)花崗巖(yan)裸露地表,黑石(shi)嶙峋(xun),峰(feng)(feng)背巨崖(ya),壁立千(qian)仞;望月臺側(ce),奇(qi)石(shi)堆疊,聳(song)出十(shi)余(yu)丈,成(cheng)(cheng)為峰(feng)(feng)頂(ding)的高點。峰(feng)(feng)腰到(dao)峰(feng)(feng)麓,松杉環繞(rao),郁郁蔥蔥,深綠(lv)(lv)無際(ji)。在峰(feng)(feng)麓通過喜陽峰(feng)(feng)的路側(ce),還有一片常綠(lv)(lv)闊葉(xie)林,學名“多脈青(qing)岡林”,綠(lv)(lv)葉(xie)成(cheng)(cheng)陰,碧濤(tao)滿耳,經風撲衣,理引(yin)人興起“五岳獨秀”的一種感覺。登祝融峰(feng)(feng)頂(ding),極目(mu)四望,峰(feng)(feng)高眼闊,胸懷無際(ji)。腳下群峰(feng)(feng)如(ru)(ru)浪(lang),綠(lv)(lv)濤(tao)起伏,湘江如(ru)(ru)帶,彎曲成(cheng)(cheng)五條白練(lian),遙向祝融,俗稱“五龍捧圣”。
登衡(heng)山必登祝(zhu)(zhu)融。古人說:“不登祝(zhu)(zhu)融,不足以(yi)知其高。”唐代(dai)文學家韓(han)愈詩(shi)云:“祝(zhu)(zhu)融萬丈(zhang)拔(ba)地起(qi),欲見不見青煙里”。兩句詩(shi)形象的(de)描(miao)寫了祝(zhu)(zhu)融峰(feng)的(de)高峻、雄偉(wei),這里不僅可以(yi)眺望到連綿不絕的(de)群山,在(zai)無云的(de)夜晚,到這里賞月,別有一番美景(jing)。游人站在(zai)臺上(shang)欣賞月色,較(jiao)在(zai)平(ping)地上(shang)別有一番景(jing)象。即使(shi)月亮西沉,這里也還(huan)留有它的(de)余輝。正(zheng)如明代(dai)孫應鰲的(de)詩(shi)所描(miao)繪(hui):"人間朗魂(hun)已(yi)落盡,此地清(qing)光猶未低。"幽(you)妙的(de)情景(jing),可以(yi)想見了。
祝融(rong)峰附近寺廟林(lin)立,景物(wu)各有千秋(qiu)。南(nan)(nan)岳佛(fo)教的(de)(de)五大(da)叢林(lin),祝融(rong)峰下(xia)就占了兩座。南(nan)(nan)面有上(shang)(shang)封寺,隋代以前叫光天(tian)觀,是(shi)道教活動(dong)的(de)(de)地方。隋場帝大(da)業年間,下(xia)令(ling)改為上(shang)(shang)封寺。沿上(shang)(shang)封寺正前方走,可見傲然兀(wu)立的(de)(de)石牌坊,這就是(shi)南(nan)(nan)天(tian)門,其石柱(zhu)上(shang)(shang)刻(ke)有對(dui)聯:"門可通(tong)天(tian),仰現碧落星辰近;路承絕頂(ding),俯瞰翠微巒嶼低(di)!"傳(chuan)神(shen)之筆,叫人真想踏上(shang)(shang)一塊白云,隨風飄去。
上封字后(hou)的(de)(de)山(shan)上有(you)個觀日(ri)(ri)(ri)臺,現(xian)設有(you)氣象臺。在(zai)觀日(ri)(ri)(ri)臺旁邊,有(you)一(yi)塊石碑,上面刻有(you)"觀日(ri)(ri)(ri)出(chu)(chu)(chu)處"四(si)個大字,在(zai)秋(qiu)高(gao)氣爽,特(te)別是雨后(hou)初晴的(de)(de)日(ri)(ri)(ri)子(zi)里(li),游人(ren)可以看到"一(yi)輪(lun)紅(hong)(hong)日(ri)(ri)(ri)滾金(jin)球"的(de)(de)奇景。為(wei)了(le)(le)看日(ri)(ri)(ri)出(chu)(chu)(chu),游人(ren)需要先一(yi)天(tian)住(zhu)在(zai)上封寺的(de)(de)招待(dai)所里(li),次日(ri)(ri)(ri)黎明前,趕到觀日(ri)(ri)(ri)臺。如遇晴天(tian),則可看到東方一(yi)片灰白的(de)(de)天(tian)空,漸漸地(di)出(chu)(chu)(chu)現(xian)了(le)(le)微微的(de)(de)鮮紅(hong)(hong)色,接著一(yi)道道光芒噴薄而出(chu)(chu)(chu),五彩繽紛。剎(cha)那間,太陽(yang)似乎(hu)從地(di)干線下向(xiang)上一(yi)躍,浮出(chu)(chu)(chu)了(le)(le)部(bu)分弧(hu)形的(de)(de)紅(hong)(hong)邊,紅(hong)(hong)邊很快變成了(le)(le)半邊紅(hong)(hong)輪(lun),繼而成為(wei)一(yi)個火紅(hong)(hong)的(de)(de)圓球。金(jin)輪(lun)涌出(chu)(chu)(chu),上下蕩漾(yang)。旭日(ri)(ri)(ri)冉冉升(sheng)起,曙光灑向(xiang)大地(di),萬物生機勃(bo)勃(bo)。青山(shan)綠(lv)樹,遍披(pi)金(jin)色的(de)(de)彩衣,秀麗萬狀。
由于每天(tian)天(tian)氣變化(hua)不(bu)同,日出的情景也(ye)千姿百態,各(ge)呈異彩,使南岳(yue)壯觀(guan)的日出,更加美不(bu)勝收(shou)。
祝融殿
祝融峰(feng)頂(ding)(ding)有祝融殿,原名老圣帝殿,明萬(wan)歷年間(1573—1620)始建為祠(ci)。因山(shan)高風大(da),所以建筑是(shi)用(yong)堅固的(de)花(hua)崗巖砌(qi)墻,以鐵瓦蓋的(de)頂(ding)(ding),殿宇凌風傲雪,巍然(ran)屹立在絕(jue)頂(ding)(ding)巨石(shi)之上。建筑是(shi)后(hou)(hou)來(lai)重新(xin)修建的(de),殿后(hou)(hou)巖石(shi)上裝有石(shi)欄桿,北山(shan)風光盡收眼底(di)。
山(shan)(shan)頂(ding)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)是清(qing)(qing)乾隆(long)十(shi)(shi)六(liu)年(nian)(1751年(nian))下(xia)詔重(zhong)建的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de),石(shi)(shi)(shi)墻鐵瓦。祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)君(jun)這(zhe)位職掌南(nan)離(li)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)火正宮(gong),經過(guo)歷(li)代(dai)帝王的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)神化(hua)和加官進爵,由(you)隋、唐兩(liang)代(dai)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)“司天(tian)王”到(dao)宋朝(chao)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)“司天(tian)昭圣帝”,制擬帝王,祀以(yi)國(guo)(guo)典。祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)自(zi)清(qing)(qing)朝(chao)乾隆(long)重(zhong)修后,因風(feng)霜蝕(shi)剝,民國(guo)(guo)二十(shi)(shi)一年(nian),時任湖南(nan)省(sheng)主席的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)何鍵又捐資(zi)重(zhong)修。1982年(nian)南(nan)岳管理局(ju)重(zhong)新翻修,始成(cheng)為(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)面貌。祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)高(gao)踞祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)峰(feng)(feng)頂(ding),構筑在一個(ge)奇石(shi)(shi)(shi)重(zhong)壘(lei)、風(feng)急云涌的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)百多平(ping)方(fang)米的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)頂(ding)隙里,可(ke)以(yi)想見(jian)當年(nian)建筑的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)艱辛。從祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)峰(feng)(feng)麓(lu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)上(shang)(shang)(shang)封寺到(dao)峰(feng)(feng)頂(ding)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian),有(you)(you)(you)花(hua)崗石(shi)(shi)(shi)路(lu)層(ceng)層(ceng)梯接到(dao)峰(feng)(feng)頂(ding)底下(xia),石(shi)(shi)(shi)路(lu)兩(liang)旁,矮松成(cheng)竹,山(shan)(shan)花(hua)爛(lan)漫(man),頗為(wei)(wei)潔(jie)致。從峰(feng)(feng)頂(ding)底腳通(tong)到(dao)祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)山(shan)(shan)門(men)(men)前(qian)石(shi)(shi)(shi)砌(qi)平(ping)臺(tai),有(you)(you)(you)三十(shi)(shi)多級陡峻(jun)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)花(hua)崗石(shi)(shi)(shi)臺(tai)階。山(shan)(shan)門(men)(men)是座牌(pai)坊式(shi)建筑,牌(pai)坊上(shang)(shang)(shang)有(you)(you)(you)“祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)峰(feng)(feng)”三字石(shi)(shi)(shi)額,卻未額為(wei)(wei)“祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)”。門(men)(men)兩(liang)側有(you)(you)(you)對聯:“寅(yin)賓出日,峻(jun)極(ji)于天(tian)。”前(qian)者指清(qing)(qing)晨五到(dao)六(liu)點時太陽升(sheng)起,后者說祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)峰(feng)(feng)頂(ding)比(bi)天(tian)還高(gao)峻(jun)。這(zhe)副(fu)對聯的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)句子集自(zi)《詩經》,對仗工穩,渾然(ran)天(tian)成(cheng),又切合祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)峰(feng)(feng)頂(ding)景(jing)物。祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)右側走廊有(you)(you)(you)另一條小門(men)(men)通(tong)向望(wang)月(yue)臺(tai)。望(wang)月(yue)臺(tai)比(bi)祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)正殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)基約高(gao)2-3米,是花(hua)崗巖風(feng)化(hua)后裸露而成(cheng)。整塊巖面不到(dao)4.5平(ping)方(fang)米,靠邊處圍上(shang)(shang)(shang)石(shi)(shi)(shi)欄(lan),既可(ke)臨風(feng)小坐,也(ye)可(ke)憑(ping)石(shi)(shi)(shi)欄(lan)桿眺望(wang)。因為(wei)(wei)它是較高(gao)點,所(suo)以(yi)空景(jing)無際(ji),山(shan)(shan)風(feng)襲人(ren),瀟湘(xiang)帆影,遠近山(shan)(shan)巒,盡(jin)奔眼底。望(wang)月(yue)臺(tai)石(shi)(shi)(shi)上(shang)(shang)(shang)原(yuan)有(you)(you)(you)不少石(shi)(shi)(shi)刻(ke)(ke),因為(wei)(wei)刻(ke)(ke)在臺(tai)面石(shi)(shi)(shi)上(shang)(shang)(shang),風(feng)雪侵蝕(shi),游人(ren)摩挲、踐踏(ta),許多已漸磨(mo)滅。現存的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)有(you)(you)(you)明(ming)朝(chao)嘉靖(jing)丁(ding)巳(1577年(nian))九月(yue)寶慶(qing)知府書刻(ke)(ke)“望(wang)月(yue)壇”三個(ge)約50厘(li)米見(jian)方(fang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)字,鐫刻(ke)(ke)在巖的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)內(nei)壁(bi)上(shang)(shang)(shang),楷書橫排(pai)。其余在臺(tai)石(shi)(shi)(shi)上(shang)(shang)(shang)與臺(tai)內(nei)外(wai)峭壁(bi)上(shang)(shang)(shang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)石(shi)(shi)(shi)刻(ke)(ke)還清(qing)(qing)晰可(ke)辨的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)有(you)(you)(you)“竣極(ji)”、“仰止處”、“果是高(gao)”、“青云在望(wang)”、“青云滿袖”、“山(shan)(shan)不厭高(gao)”、“覺夢(meng)處”、“千維綠”、“天(tian)外(wai)幽(you)賞”、“壽比(bi)南(nan)山(shan)(shan)”、“唯我是高(gao),尊(zun)峙寰中”等(deng)等(deng),大都不知是何年(nian)何代(dai)刻(ke)(ke)品。
望月臺
在(zai)祝融殿(dian)的(de)(de)西(xi)邊,有望月臺(tai),是一塊高(gao)聳的(de)(de)巉巖,上有石刻,字跡清晰可辨,月明(ming)之夜,皓(hao)月臨(lin)空,銀光四射,景色格(ge)外(wai)明(ming)麗(li)。游(you)人站在(zai)臺(tai)上,欣賞月色,較在(zai)平(ping)地上別(bie)有一番景象(xiang)。即使月亮西(xi)沉,這里(li)也(ye)留有它的(de)(de)余(yu)輝。正如明(ming)代(dai)孫應鰲(ao)的(de)(de)詩所描繪(hui)的(de)(de):“人間朗魄已落(luo)盡,此地清光猶未(wei)低。”幽妙的(de)(de)情景,可以想見了(le)。
上封寺
祝融(rong)峰附近寺(si)(si)(si)廟林立,其南(nan)面(mian)有上封(feng)寺(si)(si)(si),隋代以前叫光天(tian)(tian)觀(guan),是(shi)道教活動的(de)地方(fang)(fang)。隋煬帝大業年間(605—618),下令改(gai)為上封(feng)寺(si)(si)(si)。上封(feng)寺(si)(si)(si)的(de)正(zheng)前方(fang)(fang)是(shi)南(nan)天(tian)(tian)門。上封(feng)寺(si)(si)(si)后(hou)的(de)山上有觀(guan)日(ri)臺,現設有氣象臺。在(zai)觀(guan)日(ri)臺旁邊,有一(yi)(yi)塊石(shi)碑,上面(mian)刻有“觀(guan)日(ri)出處”四個大字,在(zai)秋高氣爽(shuang),特別是(shi)雨后(hou)初晴的(de)日(ri)子里,游人可以看到“一(yi)(yi)輪(lun)紅日(ri)滾金球”的(de)奇景(jing)。
雷池
祝(zhu)融峰頂還有個(ge)(ge)特(te)(te)殊(shu)景色——雷(lei)池(chi)(chi)(chi)。在祝(zhu)融峰腰上封寺側(ce)有個(ge)(ge)很神秘(mi)的(de)地(di)方,俗(su)稱(cheng)“雷(lei)池(chi)(chi)(chi)”。“雷(lei)池(chi)(chi)(chi)”只是石(shi)(shi)崖邊一(yi)個(ge)(ge)面積不足4平方米(mi)(mi),深(shen)不到1/3米(mi)(mi)的(de)小石(shi)(shi)池(chi)(chi)(chi)。傳說每當峰頂雷(lei)霆怒(nu)發時,這(zhe)個(ge)(ge)青苔滿(man)壁的(de)黑黝黝小石(shi)(shi)池(chi)(chi)(chi)上一(yi)定會(hui)金蛇亂閃,暴(bao)雷(lei)炸(zha)裂,而在池(chi)(chi)(chi)畔另(ling)有個(ge)(ge)小穴,俗(su)稱(cheng)“風穴”,這(zhe)時,也就風煙繚(liao)繞(rao),濤聲陣(zhen)陣(zhen)。宋朝的(de)陳從(cong)(cong)古(gu)曾有《登祝(zhu)融峰雷(lei)池(chi)(chi)(chi)》詩:“上封峰頭帝(di)所(suo)宇,傍有雷(lei)池(chi)(chi)(chi)亙今(jin)古(gu)。去天五尺銀(yin)河通(tong),帝(di)遣雷(lei)公宰云雨(yu)。我來正值(zhi)秋雨(yu)時,再拜乞龍(long)龍(long)勿(wu)拒(ju)。快得(de)此雨(yu)洗甲兵,免使中(zhong)原困胡(hu)虜。”陳從(cong)(cong)古(gu)這(zhe)首詩每字(zi)約(yue)25厘(li)米(mi)(mi)見(jian)方,隸(li)書豎刻,字(zi)在雷(lei)池(chi)(chi)(chi)附(fu)近通(tong)望日臺路側(ce)石(shi)(shi)壁上,從(cong)(cong)題刻可見(jian)“雷(lei)池(chi)(chi)(chi)”至少鑿(zao)于陳從(cong)(cong)古(gu)之前,至今(jin)已(yi)逾千(qian)年,也算一(yi)特(te)(te)種(zhong)文物。
南山摩崖石刻
南岳有(you)關部門根據史籍(ji)記載,幾(ji)度(du)冒著烈日登(deng)山探(tan)尋,終于(yu)在南岳衡山高峰(feng)——祝(zhu)融(rong)峰(feng),找(zhao)到了古代“南山”大(da)型石刻,一展“南山”芳(fang)容。
清(qing)光(guang)緒版《南(nan)岳志》記(ji)載,有“壽比南(nan)山”四字(zi)題刻(ke)于南(nan)岳祝(zhu)融峰祝(zhu)融殿北墻基下舍身崖上(今望月臺附近),楷書陰刻(ke),每字(zi)一米見方。但此次南(nan)岳相關部門幾度探尋,只發現“南(nan)山”二字(zi)。專家分析,“壽比”二字(zi)可能在修葺(qi)祝(zhu)融殿時壓在殿腳下了。
祝融峰(feng)是(shi)(shi)根據火(huo)(huo)神祝融氏(shi)的(de)名字命名的(de),相傳祝融氏(shi)是(shi)(shi)上古(gu)軒轅黃帝的(de)大(da)臣,是(shi)(shi)火(huo)(huo)神,人類發(fa)明鉆(zhan)木取(qu)火(huo)(huo)后(hou)卻不(bu)會保存火(huo)(huo)種和不(bu)會用火(huo)(huo),祝融氏(shi)由(you)于跟火(huo)(huo)親(qin)近(jin),成了(le)管(guan)(guan)火(huo)(huo)用火(huo)(huo)的(de)能手。黃帝就任命他(ta)(ta)為管(guan)(guan)火(huo)(huo)的(de)火(huo)(huo)正官。因為他(ta)(ta)熟悉(xi)南(nan)(nan)方(fang)的(de)情況,黃帝又封他(ta)(ta)為司徒,主(zhu)管(guan)(guan)南(nan)(nan)方(fang)事物。他(ta)(ta)住在(zai)(zai)衡山(shan),死后(hou)又葬在(zai)(zai)衡山(shan)。為了(le)紀念他(ta)(ta)對人們的(de)重大(da)貢(gong)獻,將衡山(shan)的(de)高峰(feng)命名祝融峰(feng)。在(zai)(zai)古(gu)語中,“祝”是(shi)(shi)持久,“融”是(shi)(shi)光(guang)明,讓(rang)他(ta)(ta)永遠光(guang)明。
為人祝壽,人們常說“壽比(bi)南(nan)(nan)山(shan)(shan)”,諸多史(shi)料證明了南(nan)(nan)山(shan)(shan)與南(nan)(nan)岳(yue)(yue)衡山(shan)(shan)的關(guan)系:題刻于(yu)祝融峰會(hui)仙橋(qiao)側有(you)“南(nan)(nan)山(shan)(shan)一境(jing)(jing)”石(shi)(shi)(shi)刻,款(kuan)署“甲寅東巴郡汪(wang)言臣、王(wang)三畏(wei)同游此”;題刻于(yu)福嚴寺(si)(si)堂聯(lian)二進石(shi)(shi)(shi)柱上“福嚴為南(nan)(nan)山(shan)(shan)第一古剎(cha),般若是老祖不二法門(men)”;清代(dai)智犁(li)和(he)尚在(zai)《重修(xiu)廣濟(ji)寺(si)(si)記(ji)》中曰(yue):“南(nan)(nan)岳(yue)(yue)乃天(tian)下(xia)五岳(yue)(yue)之(zhi)一,世稱壽比(bi)南(nan)(nan)山(shan)(shan)者,即(ji)此岳(yue)(yue)也。”;宋(song)代(dai)瀟(xiao)湘(xiang)子偶吟曰(yue):“我愛瀟(xiao)湘(xiang)境(jing)(jing),紅塵隔岸除。南(nan)(nan)山(shan)(shan)七十二,惟喜洞真(zhen)墟。”……根據(ju)古代(dai)《周禮(li)》、《春秋》、《星經(jing)》記(ji)載:衡山(shan)(shan)位(wei)處(chu)星度(du)二十八宿的軫星之(zhi)翼,“度(du)應璣衡”,象衡器(qi)一樣可以(yi)稱量(liang)天(tian)地的重量(liang),能“銓德鈞物”,故名衡山(shan)(shan)。又因軫星旁有(you)一小星,名叫“長沙(sha)星”,此星主(zhu)管人間蒼生壽命(主(zhu)長壽、子孫昌)。自宋(song)徽宗在(zai)南(nan)(nan)岳(yue)(yue)留下(xia)“壽岳(yue)(yue)”石(shi)(shi)(shi)刻和(he)“天(tian)下(xia)南(nan)(nan)岳(yue)(yue)”題詞后,“壽岳(yue)(yue)”之(zhi)名更稱于(yu)世。