祝融峰(feng)(feng)(feng)位(wei)于湖南(nan)省(sheng)衡陽市(shi)南(nan)岳(yue)區(qu)的南(nan)岳(yue)衡山,挺拔(ba)(ba)突(tu)起,高(gao)出芙(fu)蓉、紫蓋、天(tian)柱、祥光、煙(yan)霞、軫宿諸峰(feng)(feng)(feng)之上,祝融峰(feng)(feng)(feng),海拔(ba)(ba)1300.2米,高(gao)聳(song)云霄,雄(xiong)峙南(nan)天(tian),是南(nan)岳(yue)衡山72峰(feng)(feng)(feng)的主峰(feng)(feng)(feng)。
南岳諸多景觀中,祝融峰(feng)之(zhi)高,方(fang)廣寺(si)之(zhi)深,藏經殿之(zhi)秀,水簾洞之(zhi)奇,歷來被(bei)稱為“四絕”。峰(feng)頭花(hua)崗巖裸(luo)露地表,黑石嶙峋,峰(feng)背(bei)巨崖(ya),壁立(li)千仞;望(wang)月臺側,奇石堆疊,聳出十(shi)余丈,成為峰(feng)頂的高點(dian)。峰(feng)腰到峰(feng)麓,松杉(shan)環繞(rao),郁(yu)郁(yu)蔥蔥,深綠(lv)無際。在峰(feng)麓通過喜陽(yang)峰(feng)的路側,還(huan)有一片常綠(lv)闊(kuo)葉林,學(xue)名“多脈青(qing)岡林”,綠(lv)葉成陰,碧(bi)濤(tao)(tao)滿耳(er),經風(feng)撲衣,理引人興起(qi)“五(wu)岳獨秀”的一種感覺。登祝融峰(feng)頂,極目(mu)四望(wang),峰(feng)高眼闊(kuo),胸(xiong)懷無際。腳下群(qun)峰(feng)如浪,綠(lv)濤(tao)(tao)起(qi)伏,湘江(jiang)如帶,彎(wan)曲成五(wu)條白練,遙向祝融,俗(su)稱“五(wu)龍捧圣”。
登衡(heng)山必(bi)登祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)。古人說(shuo):“不(bu)登祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong),不(bu)足以知其高。”唐代文(wen)學家韓愈詩云:“祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)萬丈拔地起(qi),欲見不(bu)見青煙里(li)(li)”。兩句詩形象的(de)(de)描寫了(le)祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)峰的(de)(de)高峻、雄偉,這(zhe)里(li)(li)不(bu)僅(jin)可以眺望到連綿不(bu)絕的(de)(de)群山,在無云的(de)(de)夜(ye)晚(wan),到這(zhe)里(li)(li)賞(shang)月,別(bie)有(you)一番美景。游(you)人站在臺上欣賞(shang)月色,較在平地上別(bie)有(you)一番景象。即使月亮西沉,這(zhe)里(li)(li)也還(huan)留有(you)它的(de)(de)余輝。正如明(ming)代孫應(ying)鰲的(de)(de)詩所描繪:"人間(jian)朗魂(hun)已落盡,此地清光猶未低。"幽妙(miao)的(de)(de)情景,可以想見了(le)。
祝(zhu)融峰附(fu)近寺(si)廟(miao)林立,景物各有(you)千秋(qiu)。南岳佛(fo)教(jiao)的五(wu)大叢林,祝(zhu)融峰下就占了兩(liang)座。南面有(you)上(shang)(shang)封寺(si),隋代以(yi)前(qian)叫光天觀,是道(dao)教(jiao)活(huo)動的地方(fang)(fang)。隋場帝(di)大業(ye)年(nian)間,下令改為上(shang)(shang)封寺(si)。沿(yan)上(shang)(shang)封寺(si)正前(qian)方(fang)(fang)走,可(ke)見傲然(ran)兀立的石(shi)牌(pai)坊,這就是南天門,其石(shi)柱上(shang)(shang)刻有(you)對(dui)聯:"門可(ke)通(tong)天,仰現(xian)碧(bi)落星(xing)辰近;路承絕頂,俯(fu)瞰翠(cui)微巒嶼(yu)低(di)!"傳神之(zhi)筆,叫人真想踏上(shang)(shang)一塊白云,隨風飄去。
上(shang)封字(zi)后(hou)的(de)山(shan)上(shang)有(you)個觀(guan)(guan)日(ri)臺,現(xian)設(she)有(you)氣象(xiang)臺。在觀(guan)(guan)日(ri)臺旁(pang)邊(bian),有(you)一(yi)塊石碑,上(shang)面刻有(you)"觀(guan)(guan)日(ri)出(chu)處"四個大字(zi),在秋(qiu)高氣爽,特別(bie)是雨后(hou)初晴(qing)的(de)日(ri)子里,游(you)人(ren)可以看到"一(yi)輪(lun)紅日(ri)滾金球(qiu)(qiu)"的(de)奇景(jing)。為了(le)(le)看日(ri)出(chu),游(you)人(ren)需要(yao)先(xian)一(yi)天(tian)(tian)住在上(shang)封寺的(de)招待(dai)所(suo)里,次(ci)日(ri)黎明前(qian),趕(gan)到觀(guan)(guan)日(ri)臺。如(ru)遇晴(qing)天(tian)(tian),則可看到東方一(yi)片灰(hui)白的(de)天(tian)(tian)空,漸漸地(di)出(chu)現(xian)了(le)(le)微微的(de)鮮紅色,接著一(yi)道道光(guang)芒噴薄(bo)而出(chu),五彩(cai)繽紛。剎(cha)那間,太陽(yang)似(si)乎從(cong)地(di)干線(xian)下向上(shang)一(yi)躍,浮出(chu)了(le)(le)部分弧形的(de)紅邊(bian),紅邊(bian)很快(kuai)變成了(le)(le)半邊(bian)紅輪(lun),繼而成為一(yi)個火紅的(de)圓(yuan)球(qiu)(qiu)。金輪(lun)涌(yong)出(chu),上(shang)下蕩漾。旭日(ri)冉冉升起,曙光(guang)灑(sa)向大地(di),萬物生機勃勃。青山(shan)綠(lv)樹,遍披金色的(de)彩(cai)衣(yi),秀麗萬狀(zhuang)。
由于每天天氣變化不同,日(ri)出的情景(jing)也千姿(zi)百態,各呈異(yi)彩,使南(nan)岳壯觀的日(ri)出,更加(jia)美不勝收。
祝融殿
祝(zhu)融峰頂(ding)有(you)祝(zhu)融殿(dian),原名老圣帝殿(dian),明萬歷年間(1573—1620)始建(jian)為(wei)祠(ci)。因(yin)山高風大,所以建(jian)筑是用(yong)堅固的花崗巖砌(qi)墻,以鐵瓦蓋(gai)的頂(ding),殿(dian)宇凌(ling)風傲雪,巍然屹(yi)立在絕頂(ding)巨石(shi)之上。建(jian)筑是后(hou)來重(zhong)新修建(jian)的,殿(dian)后(hou)巖石(shi)上裝(zhuang)有(you)石(shi)欄桿,北山風光盡收(shou)眼底。
山(shan)(shan)頂的(de)(de)祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)是(shi)清乾隆(long)(long)十(shi)六年(nian)(1751年(nian))下詔(zhao)重(zhong)建的(de)(de),石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)墻(qiang)鐵瓦。祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)君這位職掌南(nan)(nan)(nan)離的(de)(de)火正(zheng)宮,經(jing)過(guo)歷代帝(di)王(wang)的(de)(de)神(shen)化和(he)加官(guan)進爵,由隋、唐(tang)兩代的(de)(de)“司(si)天(tian)王(wang)”到宋(song)朝的(de)(de)“司(si)天(tian)昭圣帝(di)”,制擬帝(di)王(wang),祀以國典。祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)自清朝乾隆(long)(long)重(zhong)修后(hou),因風(feng)霜蝕剝,民國二十(shi)一(yi)年(nian),時任(ren)湖南(nan)(nan)(nan)省主席的(de)(de)何(he)鍵又捐(juan)資重(zhong)修。1982年(nian)南(nan)(nan)(nan)岳管(guan)理局重(zhong)新翻修,始(shi)成為的(de)(de)面貌。祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)高(gao)(gao)踞(ju)祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)峰頂,構筑在(zai)一(yi)個(ge)奇石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)重(zhong)壘、風(feng)急云(yun)涌的(de)(de)百多(duo)平(ping)方(fang)(fang)米的(de)(de)頂隙里,可(ke)(ke)以想見當年(nian)建筑的(de)(de)艱辛。從祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)峰麓的(de)(de)上(shang)(shang)(shang)封(feng)寺(si)到峰頂的(de)(de)祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian),有(you)花崗(gang)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)路層層梯接到峰頂底(di)下,石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)路兩旁,矮松(song)成竹,山(shan)(shan)花爛漫,頗為潔致。從峰頂底(di)腳通(tong)到祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)山(shan)(shan)門前石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)砌平(ping)臺(tai)(tai)(tai),有(you)三(san)十(shi)多(duo)級陡(dou)峻的(de)(de)花崗(gang)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)臺(tai)(tai)(tai)階。山(shan)(shan)門是(shi)座(zuo)牌(pai)(pai)坊式建筑,牌(pai)(pai)坊上(shang)(shang)(shang)有(you)“祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)峰”三(san)字(zi)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)額(e),卻(que)未額(e)為“祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)”。門兩側有(you)對(dui)聯:“寅賓出日,峻極于(yu)天(tian)。”前者(zhe)指清晨五到六點時太陽升起(qi),后(hou)者(zhe)說(shuo)祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)峰頂比(bi)天(tian)還高(gao)(gao)峻。這副(fu)對(dui)聯的(de)(de)句子集自《詩經(jing)》,對(dui)仗工穩,渾(hun)然天(tian)成,又切合祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)峰頂景(jing)物。祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)右側走(zou)廊有(you)另一(yi)條小(xiao)門通(tong)向望(wang)(wang)(wang)月臺(tai)(tai)(tai)。望(wang)(wang)(wang)月臺(tai)(tai)(tai)比(bi)祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)正(zheng)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)基(ji)約(yue)高(gao)(gao)2-3米,是(shi)花崗(gang)巖(yan)(yan)風(feng)化后(hou)裸(luo)露而成。整塊巖(yan)(yan)面不(bu)到4.5平(ping)方(fang)(fang)米,靠(kao)邊處(chu)圍上(shang)(shang)(shang)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)欄,既(ji)可(ke)(ke)臨風(feng)小(xiao)坐,也可(ke)(ke)憑石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)欄桿眺望(wang)(wang)(wang)。因為它是(shi)較高(gao)(gao)點,所以空景(jing)無際,山(shan)(shan)風(feng)襲人,瀟湘(xiang)帆影,遠近山(shan)(shan)巒,盡奔眼底(di)。望(wang)(wang)(wang)月臺(tai)(tai)(tai)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)上(shang)(shang)(shang)原有(you)不(bu)少石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)刻(ke),因為刻(ke)在(zai)臺(tai)(tai)(tai)面石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)上(shang)(shang)(shang),風(feng)雪侵蝕,游人摩(mo)挲、踐踏,許多(duo)已漸磨滅。現(xian)存(cun)的(de)(de)有(you)明朝嘉(jia)靖丁巳(1577年(nian))九月寶慶知(zhi)府書刻(ke)“望(wang)(wang)(wang)月壇”三(san)個(ge)約(yue)50厘(li)米見方(fang)(fang)的(de)(de)字(zi),鐫刻(ke)在(zai)巖(yan)(yan)的(de)(de)內(nei)(nei)壁上(shang)(shang)(shang),楷書橫排。其(qi)余(yu)在(zai)臺(tai)(tai)(tai)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)上(shang)(shang)(shang)與臺(tai)(tai)(tai)內(nei)(nei)外峭壁上(shang)(shang)(shang)的(de)(de)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)刻(ke)還清晰可(ke)(ke)辨的(de)(de)有(you)“竣(jun)極”、“仰止(zhi)處(chu)”、“果是(shi)高(gao)(gao)”、“青(qing)云(yun)在(zai)望(wang)(wang)(wang)”、“青(qing)云(yun)滿(man)袖”、“山(shan)(shan)不(bu)厭高(gao)(gao)”、“覺夢(meng)處(chu)”、“千維綠”、“天(tian)外幽賞”、“壽比(bi)南(nan)(nan)(nan)山(shan)(shan)”、“唯(wei)我是(shi)高(gao)(gao),尊峙寰中”等(deng)等(deng),大都不(bu)知(zhi)是(shi)何(he)年(nian)何(he)代刻(ke)品。
望月臺
在(zai)祝(zhu)融殿的(de)(de)西邊,有(you)望月(yue)臺,是(shi)一(yi)塊高聳的(de)(de)巉巖(yan),上有(you)石刻,字(zi)跡清晰可(ke)辨,月(yue)明之夜(ye),皓月(yue)臨空,銀光(guang)四(si)射,景色格外(wai)明麗(li)。游人站(zhan)在(zai)臺上,欣賞(shang)月(yue)色,較在(zai)平地上別(bie)有(you)一(yi)番景象。即使月(yue)亮西沉,這里也(ye)留有(you)它的(de)(de)余輝。正如明代孫應鰲的(de)(de)詩所描繪的(de)(de):“人間(jian)朗魄已落盡,此(ci)地清光(guang)猶未低(di)。”幽(you)妙(miao)的(de)(de)情景,可(ke)以想見了。
上封寺
祝融峰附(fu)近寺(si)(si)廟林立,其南面(mian)有(you)上(shang)(shang)封寺(si)(si),隋代以前叫光(guang)天觀,是(shi)道(dao)教活動的(de)地方(fang)(fang)。隋煬(yang)帝大業年間(605—618),下(xia)令(ling)改(gai)為上(shang)(shang)封寺(si)(si)。上(shang)(shang)封寺(si)(si)的(de)正(zheng)前方(fang)(fang)是(shi)南天門。上(shang)(shang)封寺(si)(si)后的(de)山上(shang)(shang)有(you)觀日(ri)臺(tai),現(xian)設有(you)氣象臺(tai)。在觀日(ri)臺(tai)旁邊(bian),有(you)一(yi)塊石碑,上(shang)(shang)面(mian)刻有(you)“觀日(ri)出處”四個大字,在秋(qiu)高氣爽,特別是(shi)雨后初(chu)晴的(de)日(ri)子里,游人可以看到“一(yi)輪紅(hong)日(ri)滾金球”的(de)奇(qi)景。
雷池
祝融(rong)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)頂還有(you)個特(te)殊(shu)景色——雷池(chi)(chi)。在祝融(rong)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)腰上(shang)(shang)(shang)封寺側有(you)個很(hen)神(shen)秘的地方,俗(su)稱“雷池(chi)(chi)”。“雷池(chi)(chi)”只(zhi)是(shi)石(shi)崖邊一個面積不足4平方米(mi),深(shen)不到(dao)1/3米(mi)的小(xiao)石(shi)池(chi)(chi)。傳說每當峰(feng)(feng)(feng)頂雷霆(ting)怒(nu)發時(shi),這(zhe)個青(qing)苔滿(man)壁的黑黝(you)黝(you)小(xiao)石(shi)池(chi)(chi)上(shang)(shang)(shang)一定會金蛇亂(luan)閃,暴雷炸裂,而在池(chi)(chi)畔另有(you)個小(xiao)穴(xue)(xue),俗(su)稱“風(feng)穴(xue)(xue)”,這(zhe)時(shi),也(ye)就風(feng)煙(yan)繚(liao)繞,濤聲陣陣。宋朝的陳(chen)從古曾有(you)《登祝融(rong)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)雷池(chi)(chi)》詩:“上(shang)(shang)(shang)封峰(feng)(feng)(feng)頭帝(di)所宇,傍有(you)雷池(chi)(chi)亙(gen)今古。去(qu)天五(wu)尺(chi)銀河通,帝(di)遣雷公宰云雨(yu)。我來正值秋雨(yu)時(shi),再拜(bai)乞龍(long)龍(long)勿(wu)拒。快得(de)此雨(yu)洗甲(jia)兵,免使(shi)中原困胡虜(lu)。”陳(chen)從古這(zhe)首詩每字約25厘米(mi)見(jian)方,隸書豎刻,字在雷池(chi)(chi)附近通望日臺路(lu)側石(shi)壁上(shang)(shang)(shang),從題(ti)刻可見(jian)“雷池(chi)(chi)”至(zhi)少鑿于陳(chen)從古之前,至(zhi)今已(yi)逾(yu)千(qian)年,也(ye)算一特(te)種(zhong)文(wen)物。
南山摩崖石刻
南(nan)(nan)岳有關部(bu)門根(gen)據史籍記(ji)載,幾度冒著烈(lie)日登山探尋,終于在南(nan)(nan)岳衡山高峰(feng)——祝融峰(feng),找到了(le)古代“南(nan)(nan)山”大(da)型(xing)石刻,一(yi)展“南(nan)(nan)山”芳容。
清光緒版《南(nan)岳志》記載(zai),有(you)“壽比南(nan)山(shan)”四字(zi)題(ti)刻(ke)于南(nan)岳祝(zhu)融峰祝(zhu)融殿北墻基下(xia)舍身(shen)崖上(今望月臺附近),楷書陰(yin)刻(ke),每字(zi)一米(mi)見方。但(dan)此(ci)次南(nan)岳相關部(bu)門幾度探尋,只(zhi)發(fa)現“南(nan)山(shan)”二(er)字(zi)。專家分析,“壽比”二(er)字(zi)可能在修葺(qi)祝(zhu)融殿時壓在殿腳下(xia)了。
祝融(rong)(rong)峰是(shi)根(gen)據火(huo)神祝融(rong)(rong)氏(shi)的(de)名(ming)字命(ming)名(ming)的(de),相(xiang)傳祝融(rong)(rong)氏(shi)是(shi)上古軒(xuan)轅黃(huang)帝(di)的(de)大臣(chen),是(shi)火(huo)神,人類發明鉆木取火(huo)后卻不(bu)會保(bao)存火(huo)種和不(bu)會用火(huo),祝融(rong)(rong)氏(shi)由于跟(gen)火(huo)親近(jin),成了(le)管火(huo)用火(huo)的(de)能手。黃(huang)帝(di)就任命(ming)他(ta)為(wei)(wei)管火(huo)的(de)火(huo)正官。因(yin)為(wei)(wei)他(ta)熟悉南(nan)(nan)方的(de)情況,黃(huang)帝(di)又(you)封(feng)他(ta)為(wei)(wei)司徒,主(zhu)管南(nan)(nan)方事物(wu)。他(ta)住在(zai)衡(heng)(heng)山(shan),死后又(you)葬在(zai)衡(heng)(heng)山(shan)。為(wei)(wei)了(le)紀念他(ta)對人們的(de)重(zhong)大貢獻(xian),將衡(heng)(heng)山(shan)的(de)高(gao)峰命(ming)名(ming)祝融(rong)(rong)峰。在(zai)古語(yu)中,“祝”是(shi)持久,“融(rong)(rong)”是(shi)光明,讓(rang)他(ta)永遠光明。
為人祝壽(shou)(shou)(shou),人們常(chang)說“壽(shou)(shou)(shou)比(bi)南(nan)(nan)山(shan)”,諸多史料證明(ming)了(le)南(nan)(nan)山(shan)與南(nan)(nan)岳衡(heng)山(shan)的關系:題(ti)刻(ke)于祝融峰會仙橋側有“南(nan)(nan)山(shan)一(yi)境(jing)”石刻(ke),款署“甲(jia)寅東巴郡汪言臣、王(wang)三畏同游此(ci)”;題(ti)刻(ke)于福(fu)嚴(yan)寺堂聯二(er)進(jin)石柱上“福(fu)嚴(yan)為南(nan)(nan)山(shan)第(di)一(yi)古剎,般若是老(lao)祖不二(er)法門”;清代智犁(li)和尚(shang)在《重修廣濟寺記》中(zhong)曰:“南(nan)(nan)岳乃天(tian)下五岳之(zhi)(zhi)一(yi),世稱壽(shou)(shou)(shou)比(bi)南(nan)(nan)山(shan)者(zhe),即此(ci)岳也。”;宋(song)代瀟(xiao)(xiao)湘子偶吟曰:“我愛(ai)瀟(xiao)(xiao)湘境(jing),紅塵隔(ge)岸除。南(nan)(nan)山(shan)七十二(er),惟(wei)喜洞(dong)真墟。”……根據古代《周禮(li)》、《春秋》、《星(xing)(xing)經(jing)》記載:衡(heng)山(shan)位處星(xing)(xing)度二(er)十八宿的軫星(xing)(xing)之(zhi)(zhi)翼,“度應璣衡(heng)”,象衡(heng)器一(yi)樣(yang)可以稱量(liang)天(tian)地的重量(liang),能“銓德(de)鈞物”,故名(ming)(ming)衡(heng)山(shan)。又因軫星(xing)(xing)旁(pang)有一(yi)小星(xing)(xing),名(ming)(ming)叫“長沙星(xing)(xing)”,此(ci)星(xing)(xing)主管人間蒼生(sheng)壽(shou)(shou)(shou)命(主長壽(shou)(shou)(shou)、子孫昌)。自宋(song)徽宗(zong)在南(nan)(nan)岳留(liu)下“壽(shou)(shou)(shou)岳”石刻(ke)和“天(tian)下南(nan)(nan)岳”題(ti)詞后(hou),“壽(shou)(shou)(shou)岳”之(zhi)(zhi)名(ming)(ming)更稱于世。