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相傳，嘗取石(shi)脂于此(ci)。左思《吳(wu)都(dou)賦》云："赤(chi)須子蟬蛻(tui)而附(fu)麗。"赤(chi)須子，道教(jiao)傳說中的神(shen)仙。《文選》李(li)善注引《列仙傳》云："赤(chi)須子，豐人(ren)(ren)也，秦穆公之主魚(yu)吏也。數道豐界災異(yi)水(shui)旱，十不失一(yi)。食柏實、石(shi)脂，絕谷。齒落更(geng)生，細發(fa)復出。后去之吳(wu)山。"赤(chi)須子本非(fei)吳(wu)人(ren)(ren)，故曰"附(fu)麗"于此(ci)。

上真觀的歷史

穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)上(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)(guan)歷史悠久，據《穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)志(zhi)(zhi)》載，漢(han)代初(chu)元年(nian)(nian)間(jian)，出(chu)身望族的茅(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)盈、茅(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)固、茅(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)衷兄(xiong)弟(di)三(san)(san)人(ren)(ren)上(shang)穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)修(xiu)(xiu)煉皆得道(dao)(dao)(dao)，合稱(cheng)三(san)(san)茅(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)真(zhen)(zhen)君(jun)，曾修(xiu)(xiu)茅(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)君(jun)殿(dian)(dian)，留有(you)(you)"斷碑"殘跡，至漢(han)平帝時(shi)(shi)(shi)，始建(jian)道(dao)(dao)(dao)院(yuan)。據《光(guang)福志(zhi)(zhi)》，宋天禧年(nian)(nian)間(jian)，真(zhen)(zhen)宗詔天復廢業重建(jian)穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)上(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)道(dao)(dao)(dao)院(yuan)為(wei)觀(guan)(guan)。"天復"為(wei)唐(tang)昭宗年(nian)(nian)號，可見(jian)在唐(tang)代穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)已有(you)(you)道(dao)(dao)(dao)觀(guan)(guan)。南宋時(shi)(shi)(shi)，敕平江西郊(jiao)拓地八(ba)百畝創朝真(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)(guan)，穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)上(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)道(dao)(dao)(dao)院(yuan)沈道(dao)(dao)(dao)祥為(wei)開山(shan)(shan)(shan)之祖。元末，殿(dian)(dian)宇遭火焚而毀。明初(chu)，穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)有(you)(you)上(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)(guan)，殿(dian)(dian)宇頗多，香火極(ji)盛。清初(chu)順治年(nian)(nian)間(jian)，穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)著名道(dao)(dao)(dao)士施道(dao)(dao)(dao)淵棲穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)茅(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)君(jun)故(gu)宮，鳩材修(xiu)(xiu)葺殿(dian)(dian)堂，不數年(nian)(nian)，初(chu)其建(jian)筑群體。施曾從王常月受戒，為(wei)全(quan)真(zhen)(zhen)龍門(men)派第八(ba)代，后改宗正一，開創穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)支派，于(yu)是聲名顯赫，四(si)方征請。(《金(jin)蓋心燈(deng)》)順治十(shi)五年(nian)(nian)，敕賜(si)(si)上(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)院(yuan)額(e)，康熙初(chu)年(nian)(nian)又(you)修(xiu)(xiu)筑上(shang)帝、三(san)(san)茅(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)二殿(dian)(dian)及諸配(pei)殿(dian)(dian)，建(jian)井泉于(yu)山(shan)(shan)(shan)門(men)。五十(shi)三(san)(san)年(nian)(nian)，重修(xiu)(xiu)各(ge)(ge)殿(dian)(dian)。六十(shi)一年(nian)(nian)有(you)(you)三(san)(san)茅(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)真(zhen)(zhen)君(jun)埏嗣以自置田捐獻，為(wei)永遠修(xiu)(xiu)建(jian)之費。乾隆(long)年(nian)(nian)間(jian)，又(you)有(you)(you)郡人(ren)(ren)修(xiu)(xiu)上(shang)帝、三(san)(san)茅(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)二殿(dian)(dian)，有(you)(you)姓金(jin)者(zhe)捐建(jian)大士閣。乾隆(long)元年(nian)(nian)，有(you)(you)里中富人(ren)(ren)重建(jian)仙師(shi)(shi)門(men)樓，置修(xiu)(xiu)葺田入其院(yuan)。七年(nian)(nian)又(you)有(you)(you)里人(ren)(ren)捐修(xiu)(xiu)各(ge)(ge)殿(dian)(dian)。據《玄妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)志(zhi)(zhi)》載：清初(chu)順治間(jian)，龍虎山(shan)(shan)(shan)五十(shi)三(san)(san)代天師(shi)(shi)張(zhang)洪任游訪(fang)穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)，清廷賜(si)(si)額(e)"上(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)(guan)"，并賜(si)(si)穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)道(dao)(dao)(dao)士施道(dao)(dao)(dao)淵號"養元抱一宣教演化法(fa)師(shi)(shi)"。清顧(gu)詒祿(lu)《鐵(tie)竹道(dao)(dao)(dao)人(ren)(ren)畫像》云："時(shi)(shi)(shi)吳中道(dao)(dao)(dao)院(yuan)之盛，首推(tui)穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)。郡城玄妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)，殿(dian)(dian)宇巍然。年(nian)(nian)久殿(dian)(dian)傾(qing)，太傅金(jin)文通公延請道(dao)(dao)(dao)淵主觀(guan)(guan)復修(xiu)(xiu)。"可見(jian)當時(shi)(shi)(shi)穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)之盛已超過了玄妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)。

清朝末年，上真(zhen)觀殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)堂(tang)(tang)軒閣(ge)，有(you)房二千余(yu)間，分三(san)十六(liu)房分管，有(you)宮(gong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)軒閣(ge)堂(tang)(tang)四十余(yu)座。如(ru)天(tian)妃宮(gong)、祖師殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、玉(yu)皇殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三(san)清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三(san)元殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三(san)茅殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、關帝殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、純陽(yang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(呂(lv)祖殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian))、雷(lei)齊殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、靈官殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、玄帝殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、文昌(chang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、太乙殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、神(shen)(shen)(shen)虎殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、星(xing)(xing)宿殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、神(shen)(shen)(shen)農(nong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、龍王(wang)(wang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、天(tian)將殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、送子殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、五土(tu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、花(hua)(hua)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、東岳殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、四將殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、火樨殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、蛇王(wang)(wang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、樂王(wang)(wang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、財神(shen)(shen)(shen)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、火神(shen)(shen)(shen)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三(san)星(xing)(xing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、都土(tu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、如(ru)意軒、斗姆閣(ge)、魁星(xing)(xing)閣(ge)、華仙閣(ge)、七仙居、餐(can)花(hua)(hua)居、吉(ji)禪房、養和堂(tang)(tang)等等。這些殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇星(xing)(xing)羅棋布，建筑宏偉(wei)；堂(tang)(tang)內神(shen)(shen)(shen)像，塑造精巧，形象(xiang)逼真(zhen)，栩(xu)栩(xu)如(ru)生。

民國(guo)時(shi)，穹窿(long)山(shan)道教(jiao)殿(dian)宇(yu)除(chu)關(guan)帝殿(dian)、龍(long)王殿(dian)、呂祖(zu)殿(dian)、財神殿(dian)等外，其余均毀于大火(huo)，據(ju)穹窿(long)山(shan)老法師姚臥松(song)所述(shu)，抗日戰爭期(qi)間(jian)，穹窿(long)山(shan)上(shang)真觀尚有道士二十(shi)余人。"文革(ge)"時(shi)，殿(dian)宇(yu)全部毀壞。

自1978年后，在人(ren)民政(zheng)府(fu)的(de)(de)關懷下(xia)，蘇州穹(qiong)窿山(shan)道(dao)教(jiao)也得到復興。1991年，上真觀(guan)在原址(zhi)上恢復重建。十多(duo)(duo)年來(lai)，在道(dao)教(jiao)信眾(zhong)的(de)(de)支持下(xia)，先后建起(qi)了頭山(shan)門、龍(long)王殿、玉皇殿、三清殿、望湖亭等一批(pi)道(dao)教(jiao)建筑和景點。目前，上真觀(guan)有道(dao)士10多(duo)(duo)人(ren)。

帝王與上真觀

穹窿山(shan)(shan)(shan)上真(zhen)觀(guan)自(zi)施(shi)法師在順治年(nian)間(jian)擴(kuo)建(jian)后，歷(li)經康熙、道(dao)光、同治幾(ji)朝修建(jian)，規(gui)模空前(qian)，"雙闕巍峨，瓊宮璀(cui)璨，危樓杰(jie)閣聳插霄漢，遂使茲山(shan)(shan)(shan)名勝(sheng)于吳中。"清(qing)順治進士董(dong)含《登穹窿謁勾曲行(xing)宮》詩云(yun)："山(shan)(shan)(shan)勢岧峣欲到難(nan)，玉真(zhen)宮殿擁(yong)千官。洞口斷云(yun)朝放鶴，石(shi)根晴(qing)樹暮(mu)棲鸞。金(jin)門羽客龍泥印，夜禮星辰上醮壇。"描繪了當年(nian)穹窿山(shan)(shan)(shan)山(shan)(shan)(shan)勢高峻、道(dao)觀(guan)宏偉、醮事(shi)香火之盛況。

乾隆皇帝六次(ci)(ci)南巡，有(you)四次(ci)(ci)去了上真觀(guan)，曾留(liu)詩贊曰："震澤天連水，洞庭(ting)西復東(dong)，雙(shuang)眸望無盡，諸慮對宜空；三萬六千(qian)頃，春風(feng)秋月中，五車(che)稟精氣，誰詔陸龜蒙。"此詩鐫刻立碑于穹窿望湖亭中。

施道淵與上真觀

施(shi)道淵，又名亮生(sheng)，號鐵竹道人(ren)(ren)。人(ren)(ren)稱施(shi)大法(fa)師(shi)(shi)或施(shi)煉(lian)師(shi)(shi)，蘇州(zhou)橫塘(tang)人(ren)(ren)，出(chu)(chu)身貧寒，13歲上穹窿(long)山為道人(ren)(ren)。爾(er)后下(xia)山闖(chuang)蕩江(jiang)湖，入李(li)自(zi)成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)部下(xia)，旋為大順政權樞密(mi)院工作。由于(yu)李(li)自(zi)成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)部發生(sheng)內訌，自(zi)相殘殺，導致失(shi)敗。于(yu)是施(shi)亮生(sheng)深感(gan)世態(tai)炎涼，看(kan)破紅塵，復回穹窿(long)山隱居(ju)，深居(ju)簡出(chu)(chu)，修(xiu)道養身。當時(shi)道觀已處于(yu)衰敗境地。有(you)一(yi)(yi)天，施(shi)法(fa)師(shi)(shi)正在(zai)念玉皇經，當念到，"敕命東方(fang)，東華帝君，青騎神仙兵(bing)馬(ma)(ma)，無(wu)鞅數(shu)(shu)(shu)眾，悉令下(xia)降(jiang)，覆護受持，是此(ci)(ci)(ci)經者(zhe)……"時(shi)，恰巧當時(shi)清皇朝順治皇叔(shu)裕(yu)親王(wang)到蘇州(zhou)盤檢太(tai)倉國(guo)帑銀兩返京(jing)，路過穹窿(long)山麓，隱約聽到山上人(ren)(ren)聲(sheng)沸騰，劍聲(sheng)馬(ma)(ma)嘶，感(gan)到好生(sheng)奇怪，此(ci)(ci)(ci)莫非是大王(wang)山不(bu)(bu)(bu)成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)?倒是要看(kan)個究竟。他帶了(le)兩個隨從(cong)登峰，到山頂一(yi)(yi)看(kan)，只(zhi)見數(shu)(shu)(shu)間茅屋，里(li)面傳(chuan)出(chu)(chu)木魚(yu)雷音，不(bu)(bu)(bu)見人(ren)(ren)影馬(ma)(ma)匹。進屋僅見一(yi)(yi)位道人(ren)(ren)正襟危坐，口中念念有(you)詞，已感(gan)此(ci)(ci)(ci)人(ren)(ren)非同一(yi)(yi)般。良久，皇叔(shu)終(zhong)于(yu)認(ren)出(chu)(chu)是施(shi)法(fa)師(shi)(shi)，十多年(nian)不(bu)(bu)(bu)見，兩人(ren)(ren)親密(mi)無(wu)間，促膝(xi)交談。施(shi)法(fa)師(shi)(shi)說(shuo)(shuo)自(zi)己已看(kan)破紅塵，覺得穹窿(long)山能讓自(zi)己清靜修(xiu)道，實(shi)是理想之地，不(bu)(bu)(bu)亦(yi)樂乎?裕(yu)親王(wang)說(shuo)(shuo)："既如此(ci)(ci)(ci)，何不(bu)(bu)(bu)增建(jian)殿(dian)宇(yu)，創(chuang)其(qi)宏業?"施(shi)法(fa)師(shi)(shi)一(yi)(yi)笑："貧道哪有(you)這巨資擴建(jian)。"裕(yu)親王(wang)沉思片刻說(shuo)(shuo)："只(zhi)要施(shi)法(fa)師(shi)(shi)籌劃何數(shu)(shu)(shu)目，終(zhong)能實(shi)現(xian)，不(bu)(bu)(bu)過，道觀以建(jian)在(zai)三茅峰為妥。"施(shi)法(fa)師(shi)(shi)點頭稱是。不(bu)(bu)(bu)久，朝廷撥帑興建(jian)，到康熙三年(nian)春已建(jian)成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)26殿(dian)及輔(fu)房樓閣數(shu)(shu)(shu)千間。

上真觀交通

上(shang)真觀坐(zuo)落于穹窿山上(shang)，乘坐(zuo)43路、64路公交車均能到(dao)達。