《紅樓夢》誕生于18世紀中葉,它是滿漢文化、南北文化相互碰撞、吸收融合的典范,是中國明末清初時期貴族生活的真實歷史畫卷。就是在這部傲立于世界文學之林、被譽為中國封建社會“百科全書”的(de)(de)鴻篇(pian)巨(ju)制中,曹(cao)(cao)雪芹(qin)用(yong)了將近三(san)分(fen)之一(yi)的(de)(de)篇(pian)幅,描述了眾多人物豐(feng)富(fu)多彩的(de)(de)飲(yin)食文化(hua)活動:“就(jiu)其(qi)規模而言(yan),則(ze)有(you)(you)大宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、小(xiao)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、盛宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan);就(jiu)其(qi)時間而言(yan),則(ze)有(you)(you)午宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、晚宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、夜(ye)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan);就(jiu)其(qi)內容而言(yan),則(ze)有(you)(you)生(sheng)日(ri)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、壽(shou)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、真壽(shou)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、省親宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、家宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、接風宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、詩宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、燈(deng)謎(mi)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、合歡宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、梅花宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、海棠宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、螃蟹(xie)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan);就(jiu)其(qi)節令而言(yan),則(ze)有(you)(you)中秋宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、端陽宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、元(yuan)宵宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan);就(jiu)其(qi)設宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)地方面言(yan),則(ze)又有(you)(you)勞園宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、太虛幻(huan)境宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、大觀園宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、大廳(ting)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、小(xiao)廳(ting)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、怡(yi)紅院夜(ye)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)等(deng)等(deng),令人聞面生(sheng)津”。通過(guo)各(ge)種各(ge)樣的(de)(de)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)集,曹(cao)(cao)雪芹(qin)不僅為讀者提(ti)供了一(yi)張未窮盡(jin)的(de)(de)美(mei)食單(dan),更重要的(de)(de)是作(zuo)者為我們創造(zao)了一(yi)個完(wan)整的(de)(de)紅樓飲(yin)食文化(hua)體系。
曹家居(ju)南京(jing)、揚(yang)(yang)州(zhou)(zhou)60多(duo)年,飲(yin)食多(duo)為(wei)淮(huai)揚(yang)(yang)風味。曹寅(yin)編纂著(zhu)述頗(po)豐,有淮(huai)揚(yang)(yang)飲(yin)食詩文問世(shi)。寅(yin)母為(wei)康(kang)熙乳娘,寅(yin)幼(you)年為(wei)康(kang)熙侍讀,過(guo)從甚密。寅(yin)在(zai)揚(yang)(yang)州(zhou)(zhou)多(duo)次督辦御宴,熟諳(an)要(yao)旨。雪(xue)芹幼(you)年隨(sui)乃(nai)祖在(zai)任上(shang),飲(yin)食之(zhi)道,耳濡目染皆為(wei)淮(huai)揚(yang)(yang)佳味,而(er)《紅(hong)(hong)樓夢(meng)》創(chuang)作(zuo)以“聲色飲(yin)饌之(zhi)幻”來演示(shi)人生(sheng)哲理,對(dui)淮(huai)揚(yang)(yang)烹飪文化素材駕(jia)輕就(jiu)熟,信(xin)手(shou)拈來皆成雅麗,令人嘆為(wei)觀止。當代(dai)紅(hong)(hong)學(xue)俊(jun)彥馮其庸、李希凡(fan)先(xian)生(sheng)推論紅(hong)(hong)樓菜當屬淮(huai)揚(yang)(yang)風味。揚(yang)(yang)州(zhou)(zhou)與《紅(hong)(hong)樓夢(meng)》作(zuo)者曹雪(xue)芹及其家庭有深厚的歷史(shi)淵源,紅(hong)(hong)樓宴的開發(fa)責無(wu)旁貸地落在(zai)揚(yang)(yang)州(zhou)(zhou)烹飪文化界的肩上(shang)。
丁章華先生運籌與推動紅樓宴(yan)研制,時歷二十春秋,組織精(jing)干,梳理(li)史料(liao),考察論證,方家研討,磨礪提精(jing),終(zhong)成大器。紅樓宴(yan)的(de)設計立足于(yu)紅樓文(wen)化整體的(de)一部分(fen)進行再創造,以(yi)發(fa)揚(yang)光大《紅樓夢》所(suo)代表的(de)文(wen)化傳統、審美意(yi)識(shi)、文(wen)化蘊含(han),對餐廳、音(yin)樂、餐具、服(fu)飾、菜(cai)點、茶飲等項(xiang)進行綜(zong)合設計,使人(ren)恍如置身于(yu)《紅樓夢》中的(de)大觀園中。紅樓菜(cai)以(yi)其美味、豐(feng)盛、精(jing)致見長,給(gei)人(ren)以(yi)高層次飲食文(wen)化藝(yi)術(shu)的(de)享(xiang)受,名(ming)揚(yang)海內外。
一品大(da)觀:有鳳(feng)來儀 花塘情(qing)趣 蝴蝶戀(lian)花
四干果:栗(li)子青果白瓜子生仁
四調(diao)味:酸菜薺醬 蘿卜炸兒 茄鲞
賈(jia)府冷(leng)菜:紅袍大蝦 翡翠(cui)羽衣 胭脂鵝(e)脯(fu)酒糟鴨信(xin)佛手羅皮 美味(wei)鴨蛋(dan) 素脆素魚 龍(long)穿鳳翅
寧榮大(da)菜:龍(long)袍魚(yu)翅 白(bai)雪紅梅 老蚌懷珠(zhu) 生烤(kao)鹿肉 籠蒸螃蟹 西瓜盅(zhong)酒醉雞(ji) 花籃鱖魚(yu)卷 姥姥鴿(ge)蛋 雙色刀魚(yu) 扇面(mian)蒿稈 鳳衣串(chuan)珠(zhu)
怡紅細點:松仁(ren)鵝油卷 螃蟹小餃 如(ru)意鎖片 太君酥(su) 海棠(tang)酥(su) 壽桃(tao)
水果(guo)(guo):時果(guo)(guo)拼盤 白雪紅(hong)梅 龍袍魚翅(chi) 老蚌懷珠 花藍鱖魚卷(juan)
怡(yi)紅(hong)祝壽雞(ji)髓(sui)筍雪底(di)芹芽扒駝掌雞(ji)皮蝦丸湯牛乳蒸(zheng)羊羔(gao)籠蒸(zheng)螃(pang)蟹三鮮鹿筋雞(ji)絲蒿子(zi)桿(gan)老蚌懷珠
西瓜盅(zhong)酒醉雞鳳衣串珠