建筑布局
始(shi)建(jian)年(nian)代(dai)不詳,金承安五年(nian)(公元1200 年(nian))在觀內創建(jian)醮壇,明、清(qing)時期屢有(you)修葺(qi)。現(xian)存建(jian)筑(zhu)昊(hao)天玉皇上帝殿為(wei)金代(dai)原構,余皆明代(dai)所建(jian)。
太符觀坐(zuo)北(bei)朝南(nan),占地(di)面積(ji)8875平方米。兩(liang)進院落,中軸線由南(nan)至北(bei)依(yi)次建(jian)(jian)有照壁、牌(pai)樓、倒座(zuo)戲(xi)臺(tai)(下(xia)層(ceng)為山(shan)門)、昊天(tian)玉皇上帝(di)殿。牌(pai)坊至戲(xi)臺(tai)之間,東設(she)關帝(di)廟,西設(she)二郎殿;戲(xi)臺(tai)至昊天(tian)玉皇上帝(di)殿之間,東設(she)后土圣母殿,西設(she)五岳(yue)殿,在后土圣母殿、五岳(yue)殿南(nan)側(ce)各設(she)有窯洞(dong)十(shi)孔,窯頂(ding)分別建(jian)(jian)有鐘、鼓(gu)樓。
昊(hao)天玉皇上帝(di)殿(dian)(dian)位(wei)于觀內(nei)最北(bei)端,俗稱大殿(dian)(dian)。大殿(dian)(dian)面寬進深各(ge)三間,平面近方形。單檐(yan)(yan)歇(xie)山(shan)頂。殿(dian)(dian)前設(she)月(yue)臺(tai),明(ming)間施板門,兩次間置直欞(ling)窗,檐(yan)(yan)下柱(zhu)頭(tou)斗栱五鋪作雙抄計(ji)心造(zao)。殿(dian)(dian)內(nei)神臺(tai)上設(she)竹(zhu)木神龕(kan),龕(kan)內(nei)正(zheng)中奉昊(hao)天玉皇大帝(di),左右侍女、天官等像共7尊,為明(ming)代(dai)塑造(zao)。殿(dian)(dian)內(nei)山(shan)墻及后壁(bi)清代(dai)繪道教壁(bi)畫(hua)(hua)共93平方米,每(mei)組畫(hua)(hua)旁列有榜(bang)題。
五岳(yue)殿(dian)為西配殿(dian),面寬五間(jian),進深(shen)三間(jian),單檐懸山(shan)頂(ding)。
殿內(nei)神壇之上(shang)塑五(wu)岳四(si)瀆神像,兩(liang)側(ce)山墻(qiang)上(shang)方塑“五(wu)岳巡幸”和“四(si)瀆出行”懸塑。
后(hou)土圣母殿為東配殿,面寬五(wu)間(jian),進深三間(jian),四柱前廊式結構(gou),單(dan)檐懸山頂。殿內(nei)神壇及兩山墻(qiang)下供奉彩塑35尊(zun)。后(hou)壁及兩山面墻(qiang)上繪(hui)有“燕樂圖(tu)”壁畫,描繪(hui)圣母宮(gong)中生活場(chang)面。兩山墻(qiang)壁滿布懸塑,為圣母“出(chu)行”與“回宮(gong)”場(chang)景。五(wu)岳殿與后(hou)土圣母殿內(nei)壁畫、彩塑均為明(ming)清兩代作品。
觀內還保存有金碑(bei)1通(tong)、明碑(bei)5通(tong)、清代及民國碑(bei)3通(tong)。
太(tai)(tai)符觀位于汾(fen)陽城東北17公里處(chu)的杏(xing)花(hua)鎮上廟村(cun) , 西(xi)依(yi)全國著(zhu)名的山西(xi)杏(xing)花(hua)村(cun)汾(fen)酒廠 ,南望307國道。據《太(tai)(tai)符觀創建醮檀記》記裁,此觀創建于金(jin)承安五年(1200),是中國、山西(xi)省重點文物(wu)保護單(dan)位。
太符觀(guan)座(zuo)北向(xiang)南(nan),正(zheng)殿(dian)立(li)于高大的臺基之(zhi)上,前有月臺,突了了正(zheng)殿(dian)的位置。正(zheng)殿(dian)南(nan)向(xiang)為山門,配(pei)殿(dian)分列東西兩側(ce),整個廟區面積 6420 平方米。
正殿(dian)為昊天玉皇上(shang)帝(di)殿(dian),單檐(yan)歇(xie)山(shan)頂,面闊五(wu)間(jian),進(jin)深(shen)六(liu)架(jia)椽,前后檐(yan)下及兩山(shan)檐(yan)下均置(zhi)斗(dou)拱,斗(dou)拱為五(wu)輔(fu)作(zuo)雙抄計心(xin)造,碩健百(bai)古(gu)樸。殿(dian)內(nei)徹上(shang)露(lu)明,梁架(jia)四(si)緣木伏,前接乳木伏,兩山(shan)檐(yan)柱頭斗(dou)拱里轉五(wu)輔(fu)作(zuo)承托丁木伏梁,翼角斗(dou)拱里轉五(wu)輔(fu)作(zuo)上(shang)施抹角梁承托下平轉。屋面各(ge)脊用琉(liu)璃檐(yan),檐(yan)口呈曲線(xian),出檐(yan)深(shen)遠。建個(ge)建筑(zhu)外觀雄渾、飄逸(yi),極(ji)富美感,為古(gu)代建筑(zhu)藝術之范(fan)例。殿(dian)內(nei)筑(zhu)神臺,塑玉皇大帝(di)坐像(xiang)(xiang)及待臣、侍女立像(xiang)(xiang),共7尊。塑像(xiang)(xiang)神態各(ge)異,特別是侍女像(xiang)(xiang)神態非常生(sheng)動(dong),似依真人(ren)所塑。殿(dian)內(nei)三壁滿布三百(bai)六(liu)十五(wu)日(ri)值日(ri)神君“朝無圖”壁畫(hua)。
東(dong)西配(pei)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)建筑結構基(ji)本相同,懸山(shan)頂,面闊(kuo)五(wu)間,進(jin)深(shen)六架椽。西配(pei)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)為(wei)五(wu)岳殿(dian)(dian)(dian),塑(su)五(wu)岳四瀆及(ji)侍臣塑(su)像,兩山(shan)持五(wu)岳出巡、降安懸塑(su)。東(dong)配(pei)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)為(wei)后土圣(sheng)母殿(dian)(dian)(dian),塑(su)各種圣(sheng)母及(ji)圣(sheng)母侍臣、侍女像,后壁繪壁畫,表(biao)列圣(sheng)母燕樂場景,兩山(shan)掛圣(sheng)母去游天界,眾神俯(fu)瞰人間懸塑(su)。
這(zhe)三座(zuo)殿宇大量的(de)壁畫、泥塑、懸塑,包含(han)了豐(feng)富的(de)道教(jiao)內(nei)容,同時也是(shi)(shi)中(zhong)(zhong)國古代(dai)杰出的(de)美術(shu)作(zuo)品。太符觀作(zuo)為道教(jiao)做法祀神的(de)場所,雖經滄桑,仍保存這(zhe)么多(duo)的(de)文(wen)物(wu),實為珍貴。是(shi)(shi)山(shan)西古代(dai)文(wen)化遺產的(de)重要(yao)(yao)組成部分,在山(shan)西眾多(duo)的(de)宗教(jiao)建筑中(zhong)(zhong)占有重要(yao)(yao)的(de)地位(wei)。
主要特色
汾陽作為古汾州府所在地,確實也有許(xu)多的人(ren)文古跡傳(chuan)承(cheng)與(yu)世,杏花的“太(tai)符觀”就(jiu)是其中的一個。太(tai)符觀位(wei)于山西汾陽市城東北15公里杏花鎮上廟(miao)村。此觀始建年(nian)代(dai)不(bu)詳,金承(cheng)安五年(nian)在此創建醮壇,刻立(li)碑記(ji),后(hou)經明、清(qing)修葺,始成(cheng)現狀。太(tai)符觀先后(hou)在1965年(nian)被(bei)山西省政府公布(bu)為省級重(zhong)點文物保護單位(wei),2001年(nian)6月國務院頒布(bu)為中國重(zhong)點文物保護單位(wei)。
太(tai)符觀的(de)主要特色是它(ta)有著品(pin)位(wei)高(gao)超的(de)建(jian)(jian)筑群體(ti)和線條優(you)美(mei)的(de)彩塑、懸塑和壁(bi)畫。多(duo)(duo)年(nian)(nian)以來它(ta)吸引了許(xu)多(duo)(duo)建(jian)(jian)筑、美(mei)術、文物(wu)、文化(hua)藝術屆的(de)專(zhuan)家學者到(dao)此參觀考(kao)察(cha)。太(tai)符觀的(de)壁(bi)畫、彩塑、懸塑、碑碣包含了豐富的(de)道(dao)教內容(rong),同時也是中國古(gu)代(dai)杰出的(de)藝術作品(pin),雖歷(li)經風雨,但仍煥發絢麗(li)光彩,在山西(xi)宗教建(jian)(jian)筑中占具(ju)重要地位(wei)。太(tai)符觀總(zong)占地面積為8600平方米,始建(jian)(jian)年(nian)(nian)代(dai)無考(kao)。據正殿(dian)建(jian)(jian)筑風格和觀中現有金承安五年(nian)(nian)(公(gong)元1200年(nian)(nian))《太(tai)符觀創(chuang)建(jian)(jian)醮壇記》記載:始建(jian)(jian)年(nian)(nian)代(dai)當不晚于(yu)金代(dai)中期。至今至少已有800多(duo)(duo)年(nian)(nian)的(de)歷(li)史(shi)。
太符觀(guan)(guan),整體外觀(guan)(guan)雄渾飄(piao)逸,極富美感,為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)古代(dai)(dai)(dai)建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)藝(yi)(yi)術之(zhi)典范。它(ta)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)整體建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)正殿(dian)(dian)(dian)、東西(xi)配殿(dian)(dian)(dian)。正殿(dian)(dian)(dian)“昊(hao)(hao)天(tian)玉(yu)皇上(shang)帝(di)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)”為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)金(jin)(jin)代(dai)(dai)(dai)建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)結(jie)(jie)構。該殿(dian)(dian)(dian)建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)壯(zhuang)(zhuang)觀(guan)(guan)、結(jie)(jie)構樸(pu)實(shi)(shi)、用(yong)材粗(cu)碩,形制、手法(fa)和(he)風格為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)宋金(jin)(jin)建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)。大(da)(da)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)平面(mian)(mian)近正方形,前置(zhi)月臺,面(mian)(mian)寬3間(jian),進深3間(jian)。單檐(yan)(yan)(yan)歇(xie)山頂,前檐(yan)(yan)(yan)及兩山檐(yan)(yan)(yan)下(xia)(xia)均置(zhi)斗拱(gong)(gong),為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)五鋪作雙(shuang)抄計心造。大(da)(da)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)出(chu)檐(yan)(yan)(yan)深遠(yuan),翼角升起升出(chu)明(ming)顯,使屋檐(yan)(yan)(yan)形成一(yi)(yi)條優美的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)曲線,使建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)更顯得獨特、飄(piao)逸。它(ta)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)前檐(yan)(yan)(yan)呈螞蚱頭狀,給人活(huo)靈活(huo)現的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)感覺,窗(chuang)戶為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)直欞窗(chuang),殿(dian)(dian)(dian)門為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)板門,各(ge)(ge)扇各(ge)(ge)釘五排金(jin)(jin)爪形鐵鉚(liu)釘,每溜十個(ge)(ge)共(gong)100個(ge)(ge)。說(shuo)宋代(dai)(dai)(dai)建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)結(jie)(jie)構樸(pu)實(shi)(shi)、用(yong)材粗(cu)碩,主要斗拱(gong)(gong)、梁柱(zhu)(zhu)方面(mian)(mian)。宋代(dai)(dai)(dai)建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)斗拱(gong)(gong)粗(cu)壯(zhuang)(zhuang)、笨(ben)拙(zhuo),比清代(dai)(dai)(dai)建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)更具實(shi)(shi)用(yong)性,它(ta)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)檐(yan)(yan)(yan)柱(zhu)(zhu)有(you)(you)明(ming)顯的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)側腳,檐(yan)(yan)(yan)柱(zhu)(zhu)、金(jin)(jin)柱(zhu)(zhu)不設(she)柱(zhu)(zhu)礎(chu)石,使建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)更加穩(wen)固(gu),這(zhe)(zhe)些(xie)都是(shi)(shi)宋金(jin)(jin)建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)特色(se)。墻上(shang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)磚(zhuan)(zhuan)與咱們的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)磚(zhuan)(zhuan)也(ye)有(you)(you)區別(bie)。這(zhe)(zhe)里(li)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)磚(zhuan)(zhuan)又扁(bian)又寬,最重要的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)是(shi)(shi)磚(zhuan)(zhuan)與磚(zhuan)(zhuan)之(zhi)間(jian)沒(mei)有(you)(you)用(yong)泥壘(lei)在(zai)一(yi)(yi)起,而是(shi)(shi)用(yong)磨磚(zhuan)(zhuan)合縫(feng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)手法(fa)建(jian)(jian)(jian)造的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)。進入(ru)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)內的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)門檻(jian),不能踩。因為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)在(zai)宗(zong)教中門檻(jian)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)神的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)肩膀。殿(dian)(dian)(dian)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)頂右上(shang)方的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)浮木(mu),呈人字型。主要起分(fen)解力的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)作用(yong)。柱(zhu)(zhu)梁下(xia)(xia)面(mian)(mian)沒(mei)有(you)(you)柱(zhu)(zhu)礎(chu),主要為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)防(fang)震(zhen),再者是(shi)(shi)結(jie)(jie)實(shi)(shi)。殿(dian)(dian)(dian)內筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)神臺,設(she)竹(zhu)木(mu)神龕(kan)(kan),檐(yan)(yan)(yan)部小木(mu)作遍施彩(cai)繪(hui),神龕(kan)(kan)正中供(gong)奉昊(hao)(hao)天(tian)玉(yu)皇大(da)(da)帝(di),高2.45米。左(zuo)右塑侍(shi)臣四(si),侍(shi)女二,高約1.85米。這(zhe)(zhe)兩尊仕女雕像體態(tai)均勻(yun)豐滿,眉(mei)目較(jiao)好(hao)、端(duan)莊,華貴(gui)雍(yong)容,栩(xu)栩(xu)如(ru)生,堪稱(cheng)古代(dai)(dai)(dai)藝(yi)(yi)術的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)珍品(pin)。這(zhe)(zhe)兩尊仕女身(shen)(shen)(shen)材比例恰到好(hao)處(chu),整個(ge)(ge)雕塑的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)藝(yi)(yi)術價值可以同晉祠一(yi)(yi)絕(jue)宋代(dai)(dai)(dai)仕女相媲(pi)美,兩側分(fen)別(bie)塑有(you)(you)四(si)尊天(tian)官,是(shi)(shi)玉(yu)帝(di)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)得力干將。柱(zhu)(zhu)梁上(shang)盤(pan)著四(si)條龍(long)是(shi)(shi)道(dao)教的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)護(hu)衛四(si)神的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)化(hua)身(shen)(shen)(shen),同時也(ye)是(shi)(shi)玉(yu)帝(di)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)護(hu)衛神,以壯(zhuang)(zhuang)玉(yu)帝(di)聲威。四(si)周的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)壁畫(hua),共(gong)分(fen)134組,寬為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)12米,高約3米,這(zhe)(zhe)些(xie)壁畫(hua)是(shi)(shi)365天(tian)值日星君朝(chao)元(yuan)圖,與芮(rui)城永樂宮(gong)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)朝(chao)元(yuan)圖不同之(zhi)處(chu)在(zai)于每組神均有(you)(you)題榜,可看到“太羅元(yuan)始天(tian)尊”、“靈寶(bao)元(yuan)帥真君”等字樣,壁畫(hua)中的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)人物均為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)道(dao)教諸神,執掌(zhang)天(tian)上(shang)人間(jian)之(zhi)事,每天(tian)都有(you)(you)一(yi)(yi)組,下(xia)(xia)界體察民情(qing),了解民間(jian)百姓疾苦(ku),回(hui)來(lai)向玉(yu)帝(di)稟(bing)報,一(yi)(yi)年365天(tian),天(tian)天(tian)有(you)(you)一(yi)(yi)組,輪流循環(huan)值日,玉(yu)帝(di)身(shen)(shen)(shen)后繪(hui)有(you)(you)神農氏(shi),傳(chuan)說(shuo)中為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)農業和(he)醫藥的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)發明(ming)者。
名稱由來
太(tai):為太(tai)極(ji)(ji)之(zhi)略,意(yi)為至(zhi)(zhi)高無上的宇宙本源和(he)實體。符:為符命之(zhi)略,意(yi)為天(tian)(tian)道(dao)(dao)運行的規(gui)律和(he)顯(xian)示其(qi)運行規(gui)律的符號和(he)文字。道(dao)(dao)教(jiao)中太(tai)極(ji)(ji)又(you)指天(tian)(tian)地(di)未分前的原始(shi)混沌之(zhi)氣。《周(zhou)易》《系辭上》:“易有太(tai)極(ji)(ji),產生兩(liang)儀,兩(liang)儀生四象(xiang),四象(xiang)生八(ba)卦。”意(yi)思是(shi)由(you)太(tai)極(ji)(ji)產生陰陽(或(huo)天(tian)(tian)地(di)),再(zai)由(you)陰陽產生春夏秋冬四時,由(you)四時產生乾(天(tian)(tian))坤(地(di))震(zhen)(雷(lei))巽(xun風)坎(水(shui))離(火)艮(gen山)兌(澤(ze))八(ba)卦。觀:道(dao)(dao)教(jiao)祭祀之(zhi)地(di),供奉(feng)(feng)神靈和(he)作(zuo)法事的場所。傳說,道(dao)(dao)教(jiao)最(zui)早的宮觀是(shi)陜西(xi)周(zhou)至(zhi)(zhi)縣的紫云(yun)樓,此樓原是(shi)周(zhou)函(han)谷(gu)關關令尹喜(xi)的觀星望氣之(zhi)所,后迎(ying)老(lao)子(zi)在此講授《道(dao)(dao)德(de)五千言》,即傳世的道(dao)(dao)德(de)經。于是(shi)后人(ren)即將(jiang)奉(feng)(feng)迎(ying)神仙之(zhi)所稱作(zuo)觀。所以太(tai)苻觀由(you)此而來。