明皇陵(ling)(ling)(ling)初建之時占地約2萬余(yu)畝,于元(yuan)至正二十六年(nian)(nian)(公元(yuan)1366年(nian)(nian))始建,洪(hong)武十二年(nian)(nian)(公元(yuan)1379年(nian)(nian))竣(jun)工。洪(hong)武二年(nian)(nian),薦號英陵(ling)(ling)(ling),后改稱皇陵(ling)(ling)(ling)。明皇陵(ling)(ling)(ling)主要有皇城、磚城、土城三道,殿宇(yu)、房舍千余(yu)間,陵(ling)(ling)(ling)丘、石刻(ke)群等。明末以來,人為破壞和風雨侵(qin)蝕,宮(gong)(gong)闕(que)殿宇(yu)廢為遺址,現僅(jin)存陵(ling)(ling)(ling)丘及(ji)石刻(ke)群。明皇陵(ling)(ling)(ling)雖非帝王之陵(ling)(ling)(ling),但“宮(gong)(gong)闕(que)殿宇(yu)、壯(zhuang)麗森嚴”。
明(ming)皇(huang)(huang)(huang)陵(ling)有(you)(you)三(san)重(zhong)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)垣(yuan),里(li)為皇(huang)(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),周長(chang)251米,四門(men)(men)紅(hong)土(tu)(tu)泥(ni)飾,中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)為磚城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),周長(chang)約(yue)3公(gong)里(li),外為土(tu)(tu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),周長(chang)14公(gong)里(li)。明(ming)皇(huang)(huang)(huang)陵(ling)總體(ti)布局采用“三(san)套方(fang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)”,把陵(ling)園展成三(san)重(zhong)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)垣(yuan)的(de)(de)格(ge)局,將石(shi)刻列置于皇(huang)(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)之(zhi)前,陵(ling)墓在(zai)皇(huang)(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)之(zhi)后(hou),享(xiang)殿居皇(huang)(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)之(zhi)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong),華表(biao)置于石(shi)獸與石(shi)人石(shi)馬(ma)之(zhi)間。明(ming)皇(huang)(huang)(huang)陵(ling)由于陵(ling)向坐南(nan)(nan)朝北(bei)(bei)偏東(dong),因此坐落在(zai)南(nan)(nan)北(bei)(bei)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)軸線上的(de)(de)建筑物均是(shi)面對(dui)北(bei)(bei)向,且以外城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)北(bei)(bei)門(men)(men)為正門(men)(men),明(ming)顯(xian)的(de)(de)斜向東(dong)北(bei)(bei)的(de)(de)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)都城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。由北(bei)(bei)而南(nan)(nan)進土(tu)(tu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)正紅(hong)門(men)(men),依(yi)次為紅(hong)橋、欞星門(men)(men)、磚城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)明(ming)樓(lou)(lou)、神道、御橋、皇(huang)(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)金門(men)(men)、皇(huang)(huang)(huang)堂、皇(huang)(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)后(hou)紅(hong)門(men)(men)、墳(fen)丘、磚城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)南(nan)(nan)明(ming)樓(lou)(lou)、土(tu)(tu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)南(nan)(nan)門(men)(men)。在(zai)這條3.4公(gong)里(li)長(chang)的(de)(de)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)軸線兩(liang)旁,對(dui)稱的(de)(de)建有(you)(you)東(dong)角(jiao)門(men)(men)和西(xi)(xi)角(jiao)門(men)(men),左右兩(liang)排(pai)石(shi)像生(sheng),皇(huang)(huang)(huang)陵(ling)碑和無字(zi)碑,東(dong)廡(wu)和西(xi)(xi)廡(wu),東(dong)明(ming)樓(lou)(lou)和西(xi)(xi)明(ming)樓(lou)(lou),東(dong)門(men)(men)和西(xi)(xi)門(men)(men)。陵(ling)垣(yuan)內外的(de)(de)其他建筑,也(ye)大體(ti)是(shi)東(dong)西(xi)(xi)對(dui)稱或南(nan)(nan)北(bei)(bei)對(dui)稱。
皇城
皇陵修(xiu)建(jian)時(shi)建(jian)皇城一座,磚壘,高(gao)二丈,周七十五(wu)丈五(wu)尺,紅土(tu)泥飭。正殿九(jiu)間(jian)(jian),丹(dan)陛三級,黃琉(liu)璃瓦、青碧繪彩(cai)。金(jin)門五(wu)間(jian)(jian)。左右(you)廡,各(ge)十一間(jian)(jian)。燎爐(lu)一座。角(jiao)門左右(you)各(ge)一座。后紅門五(wu)座。碑亭左右(you)各(ge)一座。御橋五(wu)座,跨金(jin)水河。華(hua)表并石人、石獸共三十六對,在北城門內(nei),兩傍直(zhi)抵金(jin)門外御橋北止。以上俱黃琉(liu)璃瓦,青碧彩(cai)繪,二十家人戶輪流(liu)直(zhi)守。
磚城
皇陵建磚(zhuan)城一(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),里外(wai)(wai)磚(zhuan)筑,高二(er)丈,周六(liu)里一(yi)百一(yi)十(shi)八步(bu),開(kai)四(si)門,俱有樓。城樓四(si)門四(si)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),五(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)重檐。具服殿六(liu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。膳(shan)廚(chu)(chu)二(er)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。官廳六(liu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。直(zhi)房(fang)(fang)(fang)為(wei)四(si)門直(zhi)房(fang)(fang)(fang)左右(you)(you)各五(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian),欞星門外(wai)(wai)直(zhi)房(fang)(fang)(fang)左右(you)(you)各十(shi)一(yi)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。以(yi)(yi)上俱阜(fu)瓦。欞星門三座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),綠(lv)琉璃飭。紅橋(qiao)(qiao)共五(wu)(wu)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。以(yi)(yi)上十(shi)一(yi)社人(ren)戶(hu)輪(lun)流看守(shou)。神廚(chu)(chu)一(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),在北(bei)城門外(wai)(wai)東(dong)(dong)。二(er)十(shi)家廚(chu)(chu)役人(ren)戶(hu)直(zhi)守(shou)。神廚(chu)(chu)五(wu)(wu)門。神庫南北(bei)各五(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。宰(zai)牲(sheng)廚(chu)(chu)六(liu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。酒房(fang)(fang)(fang)五(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。門三間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。天池一(yi)口。鼓房(fang)(fang)(fang)一(yi)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian),遇祭支更。齋宮一(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),去(qu)北(bei)城門東(dong)(dong)北(bei)一(yi)里,新收入戶(hu)輪(lun)流直(zhi)日看守(shou)。正(zheng)殿五(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。穿堂三間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。寢殿五(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。膳(shan)廚(chu)(chu)五(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。左右(you)(you)廡各五(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。紅門三間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。中門五(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。廂房(fang)(fang)(fang)東(dong)(dong)西各五(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。角門二(er)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。直(zhi)房(fang)(fang)(fang)東(dong)(dong)西各三間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。紅橋(qiao)(qiao)三座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),已阜(fu)瓦蓋建。混堂一(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),去(qu)北(bei)城門東(dong)(dong)北(bei)二(er)里,新收入戶(hu)直(zhi)守(shou)。正(zheng)房(fang)(fang)(fang)五(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。水池二(er)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。門一(yi)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。
土城
皇(huang)陵建土(tu)城(cheng)一座(zuo),周二十(shi)八里(li),四(si)(si)十(shi)四(si)(si)社(she)人(ren)戶輪流(liu)(liu)直守,撥(bo)設皇(huang)陵衛巡綽。正紅門(men)(men)三(san)(san)座(zuo),在北(bei),向(xiang)東(dong)北(bei)。神路長三(san)(san)里(li),傍(bang)植松(song)柏,路達都城(cheng),亦設本(ben)衛巡守。東(dong)西(xi)角門(men)(men)二座(zuo)。官廳二座(zuo),即祠祭署(shu)衙(ya)(ya)門(men)(men),東(dong)、西(xi)、南門(men)(men)各三(san)(san)間。直房東(dong)、西(xi)、南門(men)(men)外各三(san)(san)間。下馬(ma)牌八座(zuo),在四(si)(si)門(men)(men)外。鋪舍(she)十(shi)三(san)(san)座(zuo)。水(shui)(shui)關(guan)(guan)、大水(shui)(shui)關(guan)(guan)一座(zuo),在土(tu)城(cheng)東(dong)北(bei)角內,水(shui)(shui)從(cong)此流(liu)(liu)出入淮。小水(shui)(shui)關(guan)(guan)四(si)(si)面共十(shi)九座(zuo)。皇(huang)堂橋一座(zuo),在大水(shui)(shui)關(guan)(guan)之(zhi)北(bei)。外直房四(si)(si)十(shi)間,在東(dong)角門(men)(men)外,各衙(ya)(ya)門(men)(men)陪(pei)祭官駐馬(ma)處。
【皇陵城垣】
土城遺址
皇(huang)陵土(tu)城為外城,開六個門(men)(men),以(yi)所朝的方(fang)向稱(cheng)東(dong)、西(xi)、南、北四(si)門(men)(men),北門(men)(men)東(dong)西(xi)各有一角門(men)(men)。土(tu)城遺(yi)址(zhi)周長15.44公(gong)里。據當地(di)群(qun)眾反映,抗(kang)日(ri)戰爭期間(jian)土(tu)埂高出(chu)周圍農(nong)田。建(jian)國(guo)后群(qun)眾多(duo)于(yu)此取碎磚(zhuan),土(tu)埂被夷平。今遺(yi)址(zhi)依(yi)稀(xi)可(ke)見。
磚城遺址
皇陵磚(zhuan)城(cheng)為(wei)二道城(cheng),《鳳陽(yang)新(xin)書》載(zai):“里外磚(zhuan)筑,高二丈(zhang),周(zhou)六里一百一十八步,開四(si)門(men),俱有樓”。門(men)名以所(suo)朝方(fang)向,稱為(wei)東、西(xi)、南(nan)、北明樓。明亡后,磚(zhuan)城(cheng)及明樓毀圮,現(xian)僅存(cun)遺址。
皇城遺址
皇城(cheng)為皇陵最里(li)一道城(cheng),《鳳陽新書》載:“磚壘(lei),高二丈(zhang),周七十五丈(zhang)五尺”。北城(cheng)墻(qiang)正中為金(jin)門(men),五間(jian),南城(cheng)墻(qiang)正中為后紅門(men),五座。今(jin)門(men)及城(cheng)墻(qiang)久毀。
【皇城正殿(dian)遺址】
皇城正殿
正(zheng)殿又稱“祭殿”、“享殿”、“皇(huang)(huang)堂(tang)”。明洪武(wu)十一(yi)(yi)年夏四月始建,十二(er)年閏五月丁已(yi)落(luo)成。《鳳陽新書》載:“正(zheng)殿九間(jian),丹陛三級(ji),黃琉(liu)璃,青碧繪彩”。東(dong)西廡,各十一(yi)(yi)間(jian)。崇禎八年正(zheng)月丙寅,毀(hui)于(yu)兵火。今遺址尚在,仍高出(chu)附近地面(mian)。西部遺存1.6米(mi)和1.3米(mi)見方柱礎石(shi)各1塊(kuai)、螭(chi)首石(shi)構件(jian)1塊(kuai)。原有蟠(pan)龍(long)欄桿柱石(shi)一(yi)(yi)個,已(yi)運(yun)至龍(long)興寺(si)陳列(lie)于(yu)《明皇(huang)(huang)陵文物陳列(lie)室(shi)》內。
【皇陵陵丘】
皇陵石像生
皇陵石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)像(xiang)生(sheng)列(lie)于皇陵磚城北門內神道(dao)兩側,為32對(dui)(dui),自北向南順序為麒(qi)麟2對(dui)(dui)、石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)獅8對(dui)(dui)、華(hua)表2對(dui)(dui)、石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)馬(ma)(ma)及控(kong)(kong)(kong)馬(ma)(ma)者6對(dui)(dui)、石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)虎4對(dui)(dui)、石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)羊4對(dui)(dui)、文(wen)臣(chen)、武(wu)將、內侍(shi)各2對(dui)(dui)。民國22年(nian)(1933年(nian))曾對(dui)(dui)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)像(xiang)生(sheng)作過一(yi)次(ci)整(zheng)修。1對(dui)(dui)內侍(shi)和(he)1對(dui)(dui)控(kong)(kong)(kong)馬(ma)(ma)人(ren)(ren)缺(que)頭,均(jun)從頸端啟(qi)槽補上,一(yi)組(zu)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)馬(ma)(ma)及控(kong)(kong)(kong)馬(ma)(ma)人(ren)(ren)身(shen)部(bu)開裂,也鑿洞眼(yan)以(yi)鐵(tie)扒加(jia)固。“文(wen)化大革命”初期,石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)像(xiang)生(sheng)遭到(dao)破壞(huai)。17對(dui)(dui)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)獸被推(tui)倒4對(dui)(dui),32條(tiao)獸腿斷缺(que),4對(dui)(dui)底(di)座(zuo)殘(can)(can)損(sun),6對(dui)(dui)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)人(ren)(ren),1人(ren)(ren)倒地,1人(ren)(ren)上部(bu)斷裂,華(hua)表均(jun)被推(tui)倒,斷成(cheng)2至3截,石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)馬(ma)(ma)及控(kong)(kong)(kong)馬(ma)(ma)人(ren)(ren)被砸得(de)殘(can)(can)缺(que)不全,僅存1人(ren)(ren)3馬(ma)(ma)完好。1981年(nian)7月(yue)、1983年(nian)4月(yue)和(he)1985年(nian)6月(yue)相繼修復(fu),除1馬(ma)(ma)及1個控(kong)(kong)(kong)馬(ma)(ma)人(ren)(ren)外,余皆恢復(fu)原貌(mao)。石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)像(xiang)生(sheng)均(jun)系整(zheng)塊石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)料琢成(cheng),質地堅硬(ying),呈黑色,有紅筋,皇陵石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)像(xiang)生(sheng)歷經600余年(nian),至今石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)人(ren)(ren)衣(yi)著、扣帶、石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)獸毛發等纖細部(bu)分,仍(reng)如新刻(ke),極為清晰。石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)像(xiang)生(sheng)造型逼真,刻(ke)工精細。
皇陵碑
皇陵(ling)碑乃“大明皇陵(ling)之碑”的簡(jian)(jian)稱,位于皇陵(ling)神(shen)道南端西側,洪武十一(yi)年七(qi)月建。該碑由碑首、云盤、碑身(shen)、駝(tuo)峰和鰲(ao)坐五部分組成,通(tong)高6.87米。歷經600余年,仍屹立原處,完好(hao)無損。原有(you)碑亭,久毀(hui),柱礎石尚(shang)在。洪武十一(yi)年,命江(jiang)陰侯吳良督(du)工(gong)新造皇堂(tang),朱元(yuan)璋嫌(xian)原碑記(ji)皆(jie)儒臣粉飾(shi)之文(wen)(wen),恐不足為后世子(zi)孫戒,乃親撰碑文(wen)(wen),重立新碑,全文(wen)(wen)1105字,追述其家庭出(chu)身(shen),本人經歷,元(yuan)末農民起義和他參(can)加起義軍的情況,以(yi)及(ji)東渡大江(jiang),統一(yi)全國(guo)的簡(jian)(jian)略(lve)過程。
無字碑
無字碑(bei)(bei)(bei)因碑(bei)(bei)(bei)面無字而俗稱(cheng),位(wei)于皇陵(ling)神道南端東側(ce),西距(ju)皇陵(ling)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)50米。無字碑(bei)(bei)(bei)的形(xing)制(zhi)規格(ge)與皇陵(ling)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)相(xiang)同(tong),所不同(tong)的是皇陵(ling)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)的碑(bei)(bei)(bei)首與碑(bei)(bei)(bei)身以榫卯連(lian)結,而無字碑(bei)(bei)(bei)卻系(xi)一整塊(kuai)石料雕成。原(yuan)有碑(bei)(bei)(bei)亭,久(jiu)圮(pi)。建國前碑(bei)(bei)(bei)已倒(dao)臥在(zai)(zai)地(di),碑(bei)(bei)(bei)身折(zhe)斷為(wei)三(san)截,碑(bei)(bei)(bei)座仍在(zai)(zai)原(yuan)位(wei)。1983年(nian)3月,縣文物(wu)管理(li)所將碑(bei)(bei)(bei)座向西移位(wei),同(tong)年(nian)4月配合省文物(wu)工作隊(dui),清理(li)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)座基礎。第一層為(wei)承托碑(bei)(bei)(bei)座的四塊(kuai)片(pian)石,第二(er)(er)層為(wei)石灰沙漿,第三(san)層為(wei)膠漿。根據清理(li)情況(kuang)分析,此(ci)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)傾倒(dao)原(yuan)因,系(xi)第二(er)(er)層基礎密度(du)松散(san),缺少強度(du)所致。1985年(nian)春,碑(bei)(bei)(bei)座復(fu)原(yuan),同(tong)年(nian)6月,粘接重新(xin)樹立。
明(ming)皇陵(ling)石像(xiang)生(sheng)是(shi)已知明(ming)代(dai)(dai)最(zui)早(zao)、數量最(zui)多、刻(ke)(ke)(ke)(ke)工最(zui)精(jing)細的(de)(de)皇家陵(ling)園,石刻(ke)(ke)(ke)(ke)具有很高(gao)的(de)(de)石刻(ke)(ke)(ke)(ke)藝術(shu)價(jia)值。不(bu)僅數量居歷代(dai)(dai)帝王(wang)陵(ling)墓之(zhi)冠,而(er)且雕(diao)刻(ke)(ke)(ke)(ke)技藝上也有獨到之(zhi)處。均(jun)用整(zheng)塊(kuai)石料雕(diao)琢(zhuo),無論是(shi)人像(xiang),還是(shi)動(dong)物(wu),均(jun)造型生(sheng)動(dong),刻(ke)(ke)(ke)(ke)琢(zhuo)精(jing)細,具有高(gao)超的(de)(de)技藝和強(qiang)烈(lie)的(de)(de)藝術(shu)感染力。它們是(shi)宋元石刻(ke)(ke)(ke)(ke)藝術(shu)發(fa)展的(de)(de)最(zui)早(zao)產物(wu),對明(ming)清的(de)(de)石刻(ke)(ke)(ke)(ke)造型藝術(shu)發(fa)展產生(sheng)了(le)深遠影響。皇陵(ling)碑額篆有“大明(ming)皇陵(ling)之(zhi)碑”6個大字,因(yin)碑文系朱元璋(zhang)(zhang)親自撰(zhuan)寫,又(you)名“御制(zhi)皇陵(ling)碑”。朱元璋(zhang)(zhang)為了(le)讓子孫后代(dai)(dai)了(le)解艱(jian)(jian)辛家世和開(kai)創江山(shan)的(de)(de)艱(jian)(jian)難(nan),秉筆直書,歷述(shu)家世實情與(yu)戎馬(ma)生(sheng)涯,一(yi)改(gai)歷代(dai)(dai)帝陵(ling)碑刻(ke)(ke)(ke)(ke)粉(fen)飾夸功、諛(yu)墓不(bu)實的(de)(de)惡習。碑文長(chang)達1105字,是(shi)研究朱元璋(zhang)(zhang)家史(shi)與(yu)元末明(ming)初(chu)歷史(shi)的(de)(de)珍(zhen)貴史(shi)料。
自駕路線:鳳(feng)陽(yang)縣(xian)城南7公里,省(sheng)(sheng)道(dao)307線:明光--亳州;省(sheng)(sheng)道(dao)310線:鳳(feng)陽(yang)--淮(huai)南;省(sheng)(sheng)道(dao)101線:鳳(feng)陽(yang)--蚌埠;省(sheng)(sheng)道(dao)209梅市段。縣(xian)道(dao)總大路:總鋪--大溪河(he);縣(xian)道(dao)鳳(feng)殷(yin)路:鳳(feng)陽(yang)--殷(yin)澗;縣(xian)道(dao)鳳(feng)周路:鳳(feng)陽(yang)--周圩。
公(gong)交路線:鳳陽汽車站乘往大廟(miao)鎮班車可(ke)到景區。