明(ming)(ming)皇(huang)(huang)陵(ling)初建(jian)之時(shi)占地(di)約2萬余畝,于元(yuan)(yuan)至正二(er)十(shi)六年(nian)(公(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)1366年(nian))始建(jian),洪武十(shi)二(er)年(nian)(公(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)1379年(nian))竣工。洪武二(er)年(nian),薦號英(ying)陵(ling),后改稱皇(huang)(huang)陵(ling)。明(ming)(ming)皇(huang)(huang)陵(ling)主(zhu)要有皇(huang)(huang)城(cheng)、磚(zhuan)城(cheng)、土城(cheng)三道,殿(dian)宇(yu)(yu)、房舍(she)千余間,陵(ling)丘、石刻群等。明(ming)(ming)末以來,人為破(po)壞和風雨侵蝕(shi),宮(gong)闕(que)殿(dian)宇(yu)(yu)廢為遺址,現(xian)僅存陵(ling)丘及石刻群。明(ming)(ming)皇(huang)(huang)陵(ling)雖(sui)非帝王(wang)之陵(ling),但“宮(gong)闕(que)殿(dian)宇(yu)(yu)、壯麗森嚴(yan)”。
明皇(huang)陵(ling)有(you)三重城(cheng)(cheng)垣(yuan),里(li)為(wei)皇(huang)城(cheng)(cheng),周長251米,四(si)門(men)(men)(men)(men)紅土(tu)(tu)泥飾(shi),中為(wei)磚城(cheng)(cheng),周長約3公里(li),外(wai)為(wei)土(tu)(tu)城(cheng)(cheng),周長14公里(li)。明皇(huang)陵(ling)總(zong)體(ti)布(bu)局采用“三套方城(cheng)(cheng)”,把陵(ling)園展成三重城(cheng)(cheng)垣(yuan)的(de)(de)格局,將石刻列置于皇(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)之(zhi)前,陵(ling)墓在(zai)(zai)皇(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)之(zhi)后,享殿(dian)居(ju)皇(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)之(zhi)中,華(hua)表置于石獸與(yu)石人石馬(ma)之(zhi)間。明皇(huang)陵(ling)由于陵(ling)向(xiang)坐南(nan)朝北(bei)(bei)偏東(dong)(dong),因此坐落在(zai)(zai)南(nan)北(bei)(bei)中軸線(xian)上的(de)(de)建(jian)(jian)筑物均是(shi)面(mian)對北(bei)(bei)向(xiang),且以外(wai)城(cheng)(cheng)北(bei)(bei)門(men)(men)(men)(men)為(wei)正門(men)(men)(men)(men),明顯的(de)(de)斜向(xiang)東(dong)(dong)北(bei)(bei)的(de)(de)中都城(cheng)(cheng)。由北(bei)(bei)而南(nan)進土(tu)(tu)城(cheng)(cheng)正紅門(men)(men)(men)(men),依次為(wei)紅橋、欞星門(men)(men)(men)(men)、磚城(cheng)(cheng)明樓、神道、御橋、皇(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)金門(men)(men)(men)(men)、皇(huang)堂、皇(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)后紅門(men)(men)(men)(men)、墳丘、磚城(cheng)(cheng)南(nan)明樓、土(tu)(tu)城(cheng)(cheng)南(nan)門(men)(men)(men)(men)。在(zai)(zai)這條(tiao)3.4公里(li)長的(de)(de)中軸線(xian)兩(liang)旁,對稱的(de)(de)建(jian)(jian)有(you)東(dong)(dong)角門(men)(men)(men)(men)和西(xi)角門(men)(men)(men)(men),左右兩(liang)排石像生(sheng),皇(huang)陵(ling)碑和無字碑,東(dong)(dong)廡(wu)和西(xi)廡(wu),東(dong)(dong)明樓和西(xi)明樓,東(dong)(dong)門(men)(men)(men)(men)和西(xi)門(men)(men)(men)(men)。陵(ling)垣(yuan)內外(wai)的(de)(de)其他建(jian)(jian)筑,也大體(ti)是(shi)東(dong)(dong)西(xi)對稱或南(nan)北(bei)(bei)對稱。
皇城
皇陵修建時(shi)建皇城一(yi)(yi)(yi)座(zuo),磚壘,高二(er)丈,周七十(shi)五(wu)丈五(wu)尺,紅土(tu)泥飭。正殿(dian)九間,丹(dan)陛三(san)級,黃琉璃瓦、青(qing)碧繪彩。金(jin)門五(wu)間。左右(you)(you)廡,各(ge)十(shi)一(yi)(yi)(yi)間。燎(liao)爐一(yi)(yi)(yi)座(zuo)。角門左右(you)(you)各(ge)一(yi)(yi)(yi)座(zuo)。后紅門五(wu)座(zuo)。碑亭左右(you)(you)各(ge)一(yi)(yi)(yi)座(zuo)。御(yu)橋(qiao)(qiao)五(wu)座(zuo),跨金(jin)水河。華表(biao)并石人(ren)、石獸共三(san)十(shi)六對,在北(bei)城門內,兩傍直抵金(jin)門外御(yu)橋(qiao)(qiao)北(bei)止。以上俱(ju)黃琉璃瓦,青(qing)碧彩繪,二(er)十(shi)家人(ren)戶輪流(liu)直守。
磚城
皇陵(ling)建磚城(cheng)(cheng)一(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),里外磚筑(zhu),高(gao)二丈,周(zhou)六里一(yi)百一(yi)十(shi)八步,開四(si)門(men),俱(ju)有(you)樓。城(cheng)(cheng)樓四(si)門(men)四(si)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),五(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)重檐。具服殿(dian)六間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。膳廚(chu)(chu)二間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。官(guan)廳六間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。直房(fang)為四(si)門(men)直房(fang)左(zuo)右各(ge)(ge)五(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian),欞(ling)星門(men)外直房(fang)左(zuo)右各(ge)(ge)十(shi)一(yi)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。以上俱(ju)阜瓦。欞(ling)星門(men)三座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),綠(lv)琉璃飭。紅橋共五(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。以上十(shi)一(yi)社(she)人戶輪流看(kan)(kan)守(shou)(shou)。神(shen)(shen)廚(chu)(chu)一(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),在北(bei)城(cheng)(cheng)門(men)外東。二十(shi)家(jia)廚(chu)(chu)役人戶直守(shou)(shou)。神(shen)(shen)廚(chu)(chu)五(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)門(men)。神(shen)(shen)庫(ku)南北(bei)各(ge)(ge)五(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。宰牲廚(chu)(chu)六間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。酒房(fang)五(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。門(men)三間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。天池一(yi)口。鼓房(fang)一(yi)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian),遇(yu)祭(ji)支更。齋宮一(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),去北(bei)城(cheng)(cheng)門(men)東北(bei)一(yi)里,新(xin)(xin)收(shou)入(ru)戶輪流直日看(kan)(kan)守(shou)(shou)。正殿(dian)五(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。穿堂(tang)三間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。寢殿(dian)五(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。膳廚(chu)(chu)五(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。左(zuo)右廡各(ge)(ge)五(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。紅門(men)三間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。中門(men)五(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。廂房(fang)東西各(ge)(ge)五(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。角門(men)二座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。直房(fang)東西各(ge)(ge)三間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。紅橋三座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),已阜瓦蓋建。混(hun)堂(tang)一(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),去北(bei)城(cheng)(cheng)門(men)東北(bei)二里,新(xin)(xin)收(shou)入(ru)戶直守(shou)(shou)。正房(fang)五(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。水池二座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。門(men)一(yi)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。
土城
皇陵(ling)建土城(cheng)(cheng)一(yi)座(zuo)(zuo),周二十八里,四(si)十四(si)社人戶(hu)輪流直(zhi)(zhi)守(shou),撥設皇陵(ling)衛巡綽。正紅門(men)(men)三(san)座(zuo)(zuo),在北(bei),向(xiang)東(dong)(dong)北(bei)。神(shen)路(lu)(lu)長三(san)里,傍(bang)植松柏,路(lu)(lu)達(da)都城(cheng)(cheng),亦(yi)設本(ben)衛巡守(shou)。東(dong)(dong)西角門(men)(men)二座(zuo)(zuo)。官廳二座(zuo)(zuo),即祠祭(ji)署衙(ya)門(men)(men),東(dong)(dong)、西、南(nan)門(men)(men)各三(san)間(jian)。直(zhi)(zhi)房東(dong)(dong)、西、南(nan)門(men)(men)外(wai)各三(san)間(jian)。下馬(ma)牌八座(zuo)(zuo),在四(si)門(men)(men)外(wai)。鋪舍十三(san)座(zuo)(zuo)。水(shui)關、大水(shui)關一(yi)座(zuo)(zuo),在土城(cheng)(cheng)東(dong)(dong)北(bei)角內,水(shui)從此(ci)流出入淮(huai)。小水(shui)關四(si)面共(gong)十九座(zuo)(zuo)。皇堂橋一(yi)座(zuo)(zuo),在大水(shui)關之北(bei)。外(wai)直(zhi)(zhi)房四(si)十間(jian),在東(dong)(dong)角門(men)(men)外(wai),各衙(ya)門(men)(men)陪祭(ji)官駐馬(ma)處。
【皇陵城垣】
土城遺址
皇陵土(tu)城(cheng)為外城(cheng),開(kai)六(liu)個(ge)門(men),以所朝(chao)的(de)方向(xiang)稱東、西(xi)、南、北(bei)四門(men),北(bei)門(men)東西(xi)各有一角門(men)。土(tu)城(cheng)遺(yi)址周長15.44公里(li)。據當地群眾反映(ying),抗日戰爭(zheng)期間土(tu)埂高出(chu)周圍農田(tian)。建國后群眾多于此(ci)取(qu)碎磚,土(tu)埂被夷平。今遺(yi)址依(yi)稀可見。
磚城遺址
皇陵磚(zhuan)城(cheng)為(wei)(wei)二(er)道城(cheng),《鳳陽新書(shu)》載:“里外磚(zhuan)筑(zhu),高二(er)丈,周六里一百一十八步,開四門,俱(ju)有樓(lou)(lou)”。門名以所朝方向(xiang),稱為(wei)(wei)東、西、南、北(bei)明(ming)樓(lou)(lou)。明(ming)亡后,磚(zhuan)城(cheng)及明(ming)樓(lou)(lou)毀圮,現僅存遺(yi)址。
皇城遺址
皇(huang)城(cheng)為(wei)皇(huang)陵最(zui)里一道城(cheng),《鳳陽新書》載:“磚壘(lei),高二丈,周七十五丈五尺”。北城(cheng)墻正(zheng)中(zhong)為(wei)金門,五間,南城(cheng)墻正(zheng)中(zhong)為(wei)后紅門,五座。今門及城(cheng)墻久毀。
【皇城(cheng)正殿遺址】
皇城正殿
正殿(dian)(dian)(dian)又稱“祭殿(dian)(dian)(dian)”、“享(xiang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)”、“皇堂”。明洪(hong)武十(shi)一(yi)年(nian)夏(xia)四月(yue)(yue)始(shi)建,十(shi)二年(nian)閏五月(yue)(yue)丁已落成。《鳳陽新書》載:“正殿(dian)(dian)(dian)九間,丹陛(bi)三(san)級,黃琉(liu)璃(li),青碧繪彩”。東(dong)西(xi)廡,各(ge)(ge)十(shi)一(yi)間。崇禎八年(nian)正月(yue)(yue)丙(bing)寅,毀于(yu)(yu)兵火。今遺(yi)址尚在,仍高出附近地面。西(xi)部遺(yi)存1.6米(mi)和(he)1.3米(mi)見方柱(zhu)礎石(shi)各(ge)(ge)1塊(kuai)、螭首(shou)石(shi)構件1塊(kuai)。原有(you)蟠(pan)龍欄桿柱(zhu)石(shi)一(yi)個,已運(yun)至龍興(xing)寺陳列于(yu)(yu)《明皇陵文物陳列室(shi)》內。
【皇陵陵丘】
皇陵石像生
皇陵(ling)石(shi)(shi)像生(sheng)列于皇陵(ling)磚城北(bei)門內神道兩側,為32對(dui),自北(bei)向南順序(xu)為麒麟2對(dui)、石(shi)(shi)獅8對(dui)、華表2對(dui)、石(shi)(shi)馬(ma)(ma)及(ji)控(kong)(kong)馬(ma)(ma)者6對(dui)、石(shi)(shi)虎4對(dui)、石(shi)(shi)羊4對(dui)、文(wen)臣(chen)、武(wu)將、內侍各2對(dui)。民國22年(nian)(nian)(1933年(nian)(nian))曾對(dui)石(shi)(shi)像生(sheng)作(zuo)過(guo)一(yi)次(ci)整(zheng)修。1對(dui)內侍和(he)(he)1對(dui)控(kong)(kong)馬(ma)(ma)人(ren)(ren)(ren)缺(que)頭,均(jun)從頸端啟(qi)槽補上(shang),一(yi)組石(shi)(shi)馬(ma)(ma)及(ji)控(kong)(kong)馬(ma)(ma)人(ren)(ren)(ren)身部開裂,也鑿洞眼以鐵(tie)扒加固(gu)。“文(wen)化大革命(ming)”初期,石(shi)(shi)像生(sheng)遭(zao)到(dao)破壞。17對(dui)石(shi)(shi)獸(shou)被推倒4對(dui),32條獸(shou)腿(tui)斷(duan)缺(que),4對(dui)底(di)座殘損,6對(dui)石(shi)(shi)人(ren)(ren)(ren),1人(ren)(ren)(ren)倒地,1人(ren)(ren)(ren)上(shang)部斷(duan)裂,華表均(jun)被推倒,斷(duan)成(cheng)2至3截,石(shi)(shi)馬(ma)(ma)及(ji)控(kong)(kong)馬(ma)(ma)人(ren)(ren)(ren)被砸(za)得殘缺(que)不全,僅(jin)存1人(ren)(ren)(ren)3馬(ma)(ma)完好(hao)。1981年(nian)(nian)7月(yue)、1983年(nian)(nian)4月(yue)和(he)(he)1985年(nian)(nian)6月(yue)相繼修復,除1馬(ma)(ma)及(ji)1個控(kong)(kong)馬(ma)(ma)人(ren)(ren)(ren)外,余(yu)皆恢(hui)復原貌(mao)。石(shi)(shi)像生(sheng)均(jun)系整(zheng)塊石(shi)(shi)料琢(zhuo)成(cheng),質地堅硬,呈黑色,有紅(hong)筋,皇陵(ling)石(shi)(shi)像生(sheng)歷經600余(yu)年(nian)(nian),至今石(shi)(shi)人(ren)(ren)(ren)衣(yi)著、扣帶、石(shi)(shi)獸(shou)毛發等纖(xian)細(xi)部分,仍如新刻,極為清晰。石(shi)(shi)像生(sheng)造型逼真,刻工精細(xi)。
皇陵碑
皇陵碑(bei)乃(nai)“大(da)明皇陵之(zhi)碑(bei)”的簡(jian)稱,位于皇陵神(shen)道(dao)南端西側,洪(hong)武(wu)十(shi)一(yi)年七(qi)月建。該碑(bei)由碑(bei)首、云盤、碑(bei)身、駝峰和鰲坐五部分(fen)組成(cheng),通高6.87米(mi)。歷經600余年,仍屹(yi)立原處,完好無損。原有碑(bei)亭(ting),久毀,柱礎石(shi)尚在。洪(hong)武(wu)十(shi)一(yi)年,命(ming)江(jiang)(jiang)陰侯吳良督工新造(zao)皇堂,朱元(yuan)璋嫌原碑(bei)記(ji)皆儒臣粉飾(shi)之(zhi)文(wen),恐不足為后(hou)世子(zi)孫戒(jie),乃(nai)親撰碑(bei)文(wen),重立新碑(bei),全(quan)文(wen)1105字(zi),追述其(qi)家(jia)庭(ting)出身,本人經歷,元(yuan)末農民起義和他參(can)加起義軍的情況,以及東渡大(da)江(jiang)(jiang),統一(yi)全(quan)國(guo)的簡(jian)略過程。
無字碑
無字(zi)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)因(yin)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)面無字(zi)而俗稱,位于皇(huang)陵(ling)(ling)神道南端東(dong)側(ce),西(xi)距皇(huang)陵(ling)(ling)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)50米(mi)。無字(zi)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)的形制規格(ge)與皇(huang)陵(ling)(ling)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)相同(tong),所(suo)不同(tong)的是(shi)皇(huang)陵(ling)(ling)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)的碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)首與碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)身以(yi)榫(sun)卯連(lian)結,而無字(zi)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)卻系一(yi)整塊(kuai)(kuai)石(shi)料(liao)雕(diao)成。原有碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)亭(ting),久圮。建國前(qian)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)已倒(dao)臥在地(di),碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)身折斷為(wei)(wei)三截,碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)座仍在原位。1983年3月(yue),縣文物(wu)管理所(suo)將碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)座向(xiang)西(xi)移位,同(tong)年4月(yue)配合省文物(wu)工作(zuo)隊,清(qing)理碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)座基(ji)礎。第(di)一(yi)層(ceng)為(wei)(wei)承托碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)座的四塊(kuai)(kuai)片(pian)石(shi),第(di)二層(ceng)為(wei)(wei)石(shi)灰沙漿,第(di)三層(ceng)為(wei)(wei)膠漿。根(gen)據清(qing)理情況分(fen)析,此(ci)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)傾(qing)倒(dao)原因(yin),系第(di)二層(ceng)基(ji)礎密度(du)松散,缺少強度(du)所(suo)致。1985年春,碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)座復原,同(tong)年6月(yue),粘接重新樹(shu)立。
明(ming)皇陵(ling)(ling)石(shi)(shi)像(xiang)生(sheng)是(shi)已知(zhi)明(ming)代(dai)最(zui)早、數量最(zui)多(duo)、刻工最(zui)精(jing)細(xi)的(de)(de)(de)皇家陵(ling)(ling)園,石(shi)(shi)刻具(ju)有(you)很高的(de)(de)(de)石(shi)(shi)刻藝(yi)術價值。不僅數量居歷(li)代(dai)帝(di)王陵(ling)(ling)墓之(zhi)冠,而且雕(diao)刻技藝(yi)上也有(you)獨(du)到之(zhi)處(chu)。均用整塊石(shi)(shi)料雕(diao)琢,無論是(shi)人像(xiang),還是(shi)動(dong)物(wu),均造型生(sheng)動(dong),刻琢精(jing)細(xi),具(ju)有(you)高超的(de)(de)(de)技藝(yi)和強烈(lie)的(de)(de)(de)藝(yi)術感(gan)染(ran)力(li)。它們是(shi)宋元(yuan)石(shi)(shi)刻藝(yi)術發展的(de)(de)(de)最(zui)早產物(wu),對明(ming)清(qing)的(de)(de)(de)石(shi)(shi)刻造型藝(yi)術發展產生(sheng)了深遠影(ying)響(xiang)。皇陵(ling)(ling)碑(bei)額篆有(you)“大明(ming)皇陵(ling)(ling)之(zhi)碑(bei)”6個大字,因碑(bei)文系朱元(yuan)璋(zhang)親自撰寫(xie),又名(ming)“御制(zhi)皇陵(ling)(ling)碑(bei)”。朱元(yuan)璋(zhang)為了讓子孫后代(dai)了解艱辛家世和開(kai)創江山(shan)的(de)(de)(de)艱難,秉筆直書,歷(li)述家世實(shi)情與戎馬生(sheng)涯,一改歷(li)代(dai)帝(di)陵(ling)(ling)碑(bei)刻粉飾夸功(gong)、諛(yu)墓不實(shi)的(de)(de)(de)惡習。碑(bei)文長達1105字,是(shi)研究朱元(yuan)璋(zhang)家史(shi)與元(yuan)末明(ming)初(chu)歷(li)史(shi)的(de)(de)(de)珍(zhen)貴史(shi)料。
自駕路(lu)線:鳳(feng)(feng)陽(yang)縣城(cheng)南7公里(li),省道(dao)307線:明光--亳州;省道(dao)310線:鳳(feng)(feng)陽(yang)--淮南;省道(dao)101線:鳳(feng)(feng)陽(yang)--蚌埠(bu);省道(dao)209梅市段(duan)。縣道(dao)總大(da)路(lu):總鋪--大(da)溪(xi)河;縣道(dao)鳳(feng)(feng)殷路(lu):鳳(feng)(feng)陽(yang)--殷澗;縣道(dao)鳳(feng)(feng)周路(lu):鳳(feng)(feng)陽(yang)--周圩。
公交路(lu)線(xian):鳳陽汽車站乘往(wang)大廟鎮(zhen)班車可到景區。