明(ming)皇陵(ling)(ling)(ling)初(chu)建之(zhi)時(shi)占地約2萬(wan)余畝,于元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)至正(zheng)二(er)十六年(nian)(公(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)1366年(nian))始(shi)建,洪(hong)武十二(er)年(nian)(公(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)1379年(nian))竣工。洪(hong)武二(er)年(nian),薦號英(ying)陵(ling)(ling)(ling),后改稱皇陵(ling)(ling)(ling)。明(ming)皇陵(ling)(ling)(ling)主要有(you)皇城(cheng)、磚城(cheng)、土城(cheng)三(san)道,殿宇、房(fang)舍千余間,陵(ling)(ling)(ling)丘、石(shi)(shi)刻(ke)群(qun)等(deng)。明(ming)末(mo)以(yi)來,人(ren)為破壞和風(feng)雨侵蝕(shi),宮闕殿宇廢(fei)為遺址,現僅存陵(ling)(ling)(ling)丘及石(shi)(shi)刻(ke)群(qun)。明(ming)皇陵(ling)(ling)(ling)雖(sui)非帝(di)王之(zhi)陵(ling)(ling)(ling),但“宮闕殿宇、壯麗森嚴(yan)”。
明(ming)(ming)(ming)皇(huang)(huang)陵(ling)(ling)有(you)三重(zhong)(zhong)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)垣,里(li)為皇(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),周(zhou)長251米(mi),四門(men)(men)(men)紅(hong)(hong)土(tu)(tu)泥(ni)飾(shi),中(zhong)為磚城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),周(zhou)長約3公里(li),外(wai)為土(tu)(tu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),周(zhou)長14公里(li)。明(ming)(ming)(ming)皇(huang)(huang)陵(ling)(ling)總體(ti)布(bu)局采用“三套方城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)”,把(ba)陵(ling)(ling)園(yuan)展成三重(zhong)(zhong)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)垣的(de)格局,將(jiang)石刻(ke)列置于皇(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)之(zhi)前,陵(ling)(ling)墓在皇(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)之(zhi)后(hou),享(xiang)殿(dian)居皇(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)之(zhi)中(zhong),華表置于石獸與石人石馬(ma)之(zhi)間。明(ming)(ming)(ming)皇(huang)(huang)陵(ling)(ling)由于陵(ling)(ling)向坐(zuo)南(nan)(nan)朝北(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)偏東(dong)(dong),因(yin)此坐(zuo)落(luo)在南(nan)(nan)北(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)中(zhong)軸線上的(de)建筑物均是(shi)面對(dui)北(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)向,且以外(wai)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)北(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)門(men)(men)(men)為正門(men)(men)(men),明(ming)(ming)(ming)顯的(de)斜向東(dong)(dong)北(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)的(de)中(zhong)都(dou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。由北(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)而(er)南(nan)(nan)進土(tu)(tu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)正紅(hong)(hong)門(men)(men)(men),依次為紅(hong)(hong)橋、欞星門(men)(men)(men)、磚城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)明(ming)(ming)(ming)樓、神(shen)道、御橋、皇(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)金門(men)(men)(men)、皇(huang)(huang)堂、皇(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)后(hou)紅(hong)(hong)門(men)(men)(men)、墳丘(qiu)、磚城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)南(nan)(nan)明(ming)(ming)(ming)樓、土(tu)(tu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)南(nan)(nan)門(men)(men)(men)。在這條(tiao)3.4公里(li)長的(de)中(zhong)軸線兩(liang)旁,對(dui)稱的(de)建有(you)東(dong)(dong)角門(men)(men)(men)和西(xi)角門(men)(men)(men),左右兩(liang)排石像生(sheng),皇(huang)(huang)陵(ling)(ling)碑和無字碑,東(dong)(dong)廡和西(xi)廡,東(dong)(dong)明(ming)(ming)(ming)樓和西(xi)明(ming)(ming)(ming)樓,東(dong)(dong)門(men)(men)(men)和西(xi)門(men)(men)(men)。陵(ling)(ling)垣內外(wai)的(de)其他建筑,也大體(ti)是(shi)東(dong)(dong)西(xi)對(dui)稱或南(nan)(nan)北(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)對(dui)稱。
皇城
皇陵修建時建皇城一(yi)座(zuo),磚壘,高二丈(zhang),周七十(shi)(shi)五(wu)丈(zhang)五(wu)尺(chi),紅土泥(ni)飭。正(zheng)殿九間,丹陛三(san)(san)級,黃琉璃瓦、青碧繪彩(cai)。金門五(wu)間。左(zuo)(zuo)右廡,各(ge)(ge)十(shi)(shi)一(yi)間。燎爐(lu)一(yi)座(zuo)。角門左(zuo)(zuo)右各(ge)(ge)一(yi)座(zuo)。后紅門五(wu)座(zuo)。碑亭左(zuo)(zuo)右各(ge)(ge)一(yi)座(zuo)。御橋五(wu)座(zuo),跨金水河(he)。華表(biao)并石人(ren)(ren)、石獸共三(san)(san)十(shi)(shi)六(liu)對(dui),在(zai)北城門內,兩傍直(zhi)抵(di)金門外御橋北止。以上(shang)俱黃琉璃瓦,青碧彩(cai)繪,二十(shi)(shi)家(jia)人(ren)(ren)戶輪(lun)流直(zhi)守。
磚城
皇陵建磚(zhuan)城(cheng)(cheng)一(yi)(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),里外磚(zhuan)筑,高二(er)丈(zhang),周六(liu)(liu)(liu)里一(yi)(yi)百一(yi)(yi)十(shi)(shi)八步,開四門(men)(men),俱有樓。城(cheng)(cheng)樓四門(men)(men)四座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)重檐。具服殿(dian)六(liu)(liu)(liu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。膳(shan)廚(chu)二(er)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。官廳六(liu)(liu)(liu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。直(zhi)(zhi)房(fang)為四門(men)(men)直(zhi)(zhi)房(fang)左右各(ge)(ge)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian),欞(ling)星門(men)(men)外直(zhi)(zhi)房(fang)左右各(ge)(ge)十(shi)(shi)一(yi)(yi)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。以上(shang)俱阜(fu)瓦。欞(ling)星門(men)(men)三(san)(san)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),綠琉璃飭。紅橋(qiao)共五(wu)(wu)(wu)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。以上(shang)十(shi)(shi)一(yi)(yi)社(she)人戶(hu)輪(lun)流看(kan)守。神廚(chu)一(yi)(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),在(zai)北(bei)(bei)城(cheng)(cheng)門(men)(men)外東。二(er)十(shi)(shi)家廚(chu)役(yi)人戶(hu)直(zhi)(zhi)守。神廚(chu)五(wu)(wu)(wu)門(men)(men)。神庫南北(bei)(bei)各(ge)(ge)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。宰牲廚(chu)六(liu)(liu)(liu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。酒房(fang)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。門(men)(men)三(san)(san)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。天池一(yi)(yi)口。鼓房(fang)一(yi)(yi)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian),遇祭支更。齋(zhai)宮一(yi)(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),去北(bei)(bei)城(cheng)(cheng)門(men)(men)東北(bei)(bei)一(yi)(yi)里,新(xin)(xin)收(shou)入戶(hu)輪(lun)流直(zhi)(zhi)日(ri)看(kan)守。正殿(dian)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。穿堂三(san)(san)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。寢殿(dian)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。膳(shan)廚(chu)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。左右廡(wu)各(ge)(ge)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。紅門(men)(men)三(san)(san)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。中(zhong)門(men)(men)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。廂(xiang)房(fang)東西(xi)各(ge)(ge)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。角(jiao)門(men)(men)二(er)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。直(zhi)(zhi)房(fang)東西(xi)各(ge)(ge)三(san)(san)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。紅橋(qiao)三(san)(san)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),已(yi)阜(fu)瓦蓋建。混堂一(yi)(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),去北(bei)(bei)城(cheng)(cheng)門(men)(men)東北(bei)(bei)二(er)里,新(xin)(xin)收(shou)入戶(hu)直(zhi)(zhi)守。正房(fang)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。水池二(er)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。門(men)(men)一(yi)(yi)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。
土城
皇(huang)(huang)陵建土城一座,周(zhou)二十(shi)(shi)八里,四(si)十(shi)(shi)四(si)社人戶輪流直守,撥設皇(huang)(huang)陵衛巡(xun)綽。正紅門(men)(men)三(san)座,在(zai)(zai)北,向(xiang)東北。神(shen)路(lu)長三(san)里,傍(bang)植松柏,路(lu)達(da)都(dou)城,亦設本衛巡(xun)守。東西角(jiao)門(men)(men)二座。官廳二座,即祠祭(ji)署衙(ya)門(men)(men),東、西、南(nan)門(men)(men)各三(san)間(jian)。直房(fang)東、西、南(nan)門(men)(men)外(wai)各三(san)間(jian)。下馬牌(pai)八座,在(zai)(zai)四(si)門(men)(men)外(wai)。鋪舍(she)十(shi)(shi)三(san)座。水(shui)關(guan)、大(da)水(shui)關(guan)一座,在(zai)(zai)土城東北角(jiao)內,水(shui)從此流出入淮。小水(shui)關(guan)四(si)面(mian)共(gong)十(shi)(shi)九座。皇(huang)(huang)堂橋一座,在(zai)(zai)大(da)水(shui)關(guan)之北。外(wai)直房(fang)四(si)十(shi)(shi)間(jian),在(zai)(zai)東角(jiao)門(men)(men)外(wai),各衙(ya)門(men)(men)陪(pei)祭(ji)官駐馬處。
【皇陵城垣】
土城遺址
皇陵(ling)土(tu)城為(wei)外城,開六個(ge)門,以所朝的方(fang)向稱東、西(xi)、南、北四門,北門東西(xi)各有一角門。土(tu)城遺址(zhi)周(zhou)長15.44公里。據當地群(qun)眾(zhong)反映,抗日戰爭期間(jian)土(tu)埂高出(chu)周(zhou)圍農(nong)田(tian)。建(jian)國后群(qun)眾(zhong)多(duo)于此(ci)取(qu)碎磚,土(tu)埂被(bei)夷(yi)平。今遺址(zhi)依稀可(ke)見(jian)。
磚城遺址
皇陵磚城為(wei)二(er)道城,《鳳陽新書》載(zai):“里外磚筑,高二(er)丈,周(zhou)六(liu)里一百一十八步(bu),開四門(men)(men),俱(ju)有樓(lou)”。門(men)(men)名以(yi)所朝方向(xiang),稱(cheng)為(wei)東、西、南、北明(ming)樓(lou)。明(ming)亡后,磚城及明(ming)樓(lou)毀圮,現僅存遺址。
皇城遺址
皇城(cheng)為(wei)皇陵最里(li)一(yi)道城(cheng),《鳳陽(yang)新書》載:“磚壘(lei),高(gao)二丈,周七十五丈五尺”。北城(cheng)墻(qiang)正中為(wei)金門(men),五間,南城(cheng)墻(qiang)正中為(wei)后紅門(men),五座。今(jin)門(men)及城(cheng)墻(qiang)久(jiu)毀(hui)。
【皇城正殿遺址】
皇城正殿
正(zheng)殿(dian)(dian)又稱“祭殿(dian)(dian)”、“享殿(dian)(dian)”、“皇堂”。明洪(hong)武(wu)十一(yi)年(nian)夏四月始建,十二年(nian)閏(run)五月丁已(yi)落成(cheng)。《鳳陽新書》載:“正(zheng)殿(dian)(dian)九間(jian),丹(dan)陛三級,黃(huang)琉璃,青碧(bi)繪(hui)彩”。東西廡(wu),各十一(yi)間(jian)。崇禎八(ba)年(nian)正(zheng)月丙寅,毀于兵火。今遺(yi)址(zhi)尚在,仍(reng)高(gao)出附近地面。西部遺(yi)存1.6米(mi)和1.3米(mi)見方柱礎石各1塊、螭首石構件(jian)1塊。原有蟠龍(long)欄桿(gan)柱石一(yi)個,已(yi)運(yun)至(zhi)龍(long)興寺陳列于《明皇陵文(wen)物陳列室》內。
【皇陵陵丘】
皇陵石像生
皇陵石像(xiang)(xiang)生列(lie)于皇陵磚城北(bei)門內(nei)神道(dao)兩(liang)側(ce),為(wei)32對,自北(bei)向南(nan)順序(xu)為(wei)麒麟2對、石獅8對、華表2對、石馬(ma)及控馬(ma)者6對、石虎4對、石羊(yang)4對、文(wen)臣、武將、內(nei)侍各2對。民國22年(nian)(1933年(nian))曾對石像(xiang)(xiang)生作過一次整(zheng)修。1對內(nei)侍和(he)1對控馬(ma)人(ren)(ren)缺(que)頭,均從頸(jing)端(duan)啟槽補上(shang),一組石馬(ma)及控馬(ma)人(ren)(ren)身部開裂,也鑿(zao)洞眼以鐵扒加固(gu)。“文(wen)化(hua)大革命(ming)”初期,石像(xiang)(xiang)生遭(zao)到(dao)破壞(huai)。17對石獸被推倒4對,32條獸腿斷(duan)缺(que),4對底座殘(can)損,6對石人(ren)(ren),1人(ren)(ren)倒地,1人(ren)(ren)上(shang)部斷(duan)裂,華表均被推倒,斷(duan)成2至(zhi)3截(jie),石馬(ma)及控馬(ma)人(ren)(ren)被砸(za)得殘(can)缺(que)不全(quan),僅存1人(ren)(ren)3馬(ma)完好。1981年(nian)7月、1983年(nian)4月和(he)1985年(nian)6月相繼修復,除1馬(ma)及1個控馬(ma)人(ren)(ren)外,余(yu)皆(jie)恢復原貌(mao)。石像(xiang)(xiang)生均系整(zheng)塊石料琢(zhuo)成,質地堅硬,呈黑(hei)色,有紅筋,皇陵石像(xiang)(xiang)生歷(li)經600余(yu)年(nian),至(zhi)今石人(ren)(ren)衣著(zhu)、扣帶、石獸毛發等纖細部分,仍如新刻,極為(wei)清晰。石像(xiang)(xiang)生造型(xing)逼(bi)真,刻工精(jing)細。
皇陵碑
皇陵碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)乃“大明皇陵之碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)”的簡(jian)稱(cheng),位于皇陵神道南端西(xi)側(ce),洪武十(shi)一年七月建。該碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)由碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)首、云盤、碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)身、駝峰和(he)鰲(ao)坐五(wu)部分(fen)組成,通高6.87米。歷經(jing)600余年,仍屹立原(yuan)處,完好(hao)無損。原(yuan)有(you)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)亭,久毀,柱礎石尚(shang)在。洪武十(shi)一年,命江陰(yin)侯吳(wu)良督工新造皇堂(tang),朱(zhu)元璋嫌原(yuan)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)記(ji)皆儒臣粉(fen)飾之文(wen)(wen),恐不(bu)足(zu)為后世子(zi)孫戒,乃親撰(zhuan)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)文(wen)(wen),重立新碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei),全文(wen)(wen)1105字(zi),追述其家庭出身,本人經(jing)歷,元末(mo)農民起義(yi)和(he)他(ta)參(can)加起義(yi)軍的情況(kuang),以及東渡大江,統一全國的簡(jian)略(lve)過程(cheng)。
無字碑
無字(zi)(zi)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)因碑(bei)(bei)(bei)面無字(zi)(zi)而俗稱,位(wei)于皇(huang)陵(ling)神道南端(duan)東側,西(xi)距皇(huang)陵(ling)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)50米(mi)。無字(zi)(zi)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)的(de)(de)形(xing)制規格與(yu)(yu)皇(huang)陵(ling)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)相同(tong),所不同(tong)的(de)(de)是(shi)皇(huang)陵(ling)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)的(de)(de)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)首與(yu)(yu)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)身(shen)以榫卯(mao)連結,而無字(zi)(zi)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)卻系一整塊石(shi)料雕成。原(yuan)(yuan)有碑(bei)(bei)(bei)亭,久圮。建國前碑(bei)(bei)(bei)已倒臥在地,碑(bei)(bei)(bei)身(shen)折斷為(wei)三截,碑(bei)(bei)(bei)座仍在原(yuan)(yuan)位(wei)。1983年(nian)(nian)3月(yue)(yue),縣(xian)文物管理所將碑(bei)(bei)(bei)座向西(xi)移位(wei),同(tong)年(nian)(nian)4月(yue)(yue)配(pei)合省(sheng)文物工(gong)作隊,清理碑(bei)(bei)(bei)座基礎(chu)。第一層為(wei)承托碑(bei)(bei)(bei)座的(de)(de)四塊片石(shi),第二層為(wei)石(shi)灰沙漿(jiang),第三層為(wei)膠(jiao)漿(jiang)。根據清理情況分(fen)析,此(ci)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)傾倒原(yuan)(yuan)因,系第二層基礎(chu)密度(du)松散,缺少(shao)強度(du)所致。1985年(nian)(nian)春,碑(bei)(bei)(bei)座復原(yuan)(yuan),同(tong)年(nian)(nian)6月(yue)(yue),粘接重新樹立(li)。
明(ming)皇陵(ling)(ling)石(shi)(shi)像生是(shi)已知(zhi)明(ming)代最(zui)(zui)早、數量(liang)最(zui)(zui)多、刻(ke)(ke)(ke)工最(zui)(zui)精細的(de)皇家陵(ling)(ling)園,石(shi)(shi)刻(ke)(ke)(ke)具(ju)有很高的(de)石(shi)(shi)刻(ke)(ke)(ke)藝術(shu)(shu)(shu)價值。不(bu)僅數量(liang)居歷(li)(li)代帝(di)王陵(ling)(ling)墓之冠,而且雕刻(ke)(ke)(ke)技(ji)藝上也有獨到(dao)之處。均用(yong)整塊石(shi)(shi)料雕琢,無(wu)論(lun)是(shi)人像,還(huan)是(shi)動(dong)物,均造型生動(dong),刻(ke)(ke)(ke)琢精細,具(ju)有高超的(de)技(ji)藝和(he)強烈的(de)藝術(shu)(shu)(shu)感染力。它們(men)是(shi)宋元(yuan)(yuan)石(shi)(shi)刻(ke)(ke)(ke)藝術(shu)(shu)(shu)發展的(de)最(zui)(zui)早產物,對明(ming)清(qing)的(de)石(shi)(shi)刻(ke)(ke)(ke)造型藝術(shu)(shu)(shu)發展產生了深遠(yuan)影響。皇陵(ling)(ling)碑(bei)額(e)篆有“大明(ming)皇陵(ling)(ling)之碑(bei)”6個(ge)大字,因碑(bei)文(wen)系朱元(yuan)(yuan)璋(zhang)(zhang)親自撰寫,又名“御制皇陵(ling)(ling)碑(bei)”。朱元(yuan)(yuan)璋(zhang)(zhang)為(wei)了讓子(zi)孫(sun)后代了解(jie)艱辛家世和(he)開創(chuang)江山的(de)艱難,秉筆直(zhi)書,歷(li)(li)述(shu)家世實情與戎馬生涯,一改(gai)歷(li)(li)代帝(di)陵(ling)(ling)碑(bei)刻(ke)(ke)(ke)粉飾夸功、諛墓不(bu)實的(de)惡習。碑(bei)文(wen)長達1105字,是(shi)研究朱元(yuan)(yuan)璋(zhang)(zhang)家史(shi)(shi)與元(yuan)(yuan)末明(ming)初歷(li)(li)史(shi)(shi)的(de)珍貴史(shi)(shi)料。
自駕路(lu)線:鳳陽縣城南7公里,省道307線:明光--亳州;省道310線:鳳陽--淮南;省道101線:鳳陽--蚌埠;省道209梅市段(duan)。縣道總大路(lu):總鋪--大溪河;縣道鳳殷(yin)路(lu):鳳陽--殷(yin)澗(jian);縣道鳳周路(lu):鳳陽--周圩。
公交路線:鳳陽汽車站乘往(wang)大廟鎮(zhen)班車可到(dao)景(jing)區。