明長(chang)(chang)陵(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)的(de)整(zheng)體布(bu)局為“前(qian)(qian)方(fang)后(hou)圓(yuan)”,整(zheng)個陵(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)宮(gong)建筑南(nan)(nan)向偏西(xi)9度。長(chang)(chang)陵(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)的(de)陵(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)宮(gong)建筑,占地(di)約12萬平方(fang)米。其平面(mian)(mian)布(bu)局呈前(qian)(qian)方(fang)后(hou)圓(yuan)形(xing)狀。包括(kuo)陵(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)門(men)、神庫、神廚、碑亭、祾(ling)恩門(men)、祾(ling)恩殿、欞星門(men)、寶城(cheng)(cheng)、明樓等(現部分(fen)(fen)建筑已不存)。寶城(cheng)(cheng)磚砌,圓(yuan)形(xing),直徑約340米,周長(chang)(chang)1公里多,上有(you)垛口(kou),形(xing)似(si)城(cheng)(cheng)堡(bao)。內(nei)為高大的(de)封土,封土下面(mian)(mian)就是地(di)宮(gong)的(de)位置(zhi)。寶城(cheng)(cheng)南(nan)(nan)面(mian)(mian)中(zhong)央有(you)門(men),可沿磴道上達明樓。樓呈方(fang)形(xing),四面(mian)(mian)辟(pi)券門(men),中(zhong)貫十(shi)字形(xing)穹窿式(shi)天花。頂為黃(huang)筒瓦重檐歇山式(shi),檐下榜額(e)書“長(chang)(chang)陵(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)”二(er)(er)字。樓正中(zhong)有(you)碑一座(zuo),額(e)篆書“大明”二(er)(er)字,碑身(shen)刻“成祖文皇帝之陵(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)”。除陵(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)園本身(shen)外,還有(you)東西(xi)二(er)(er)墳,東墳在德陵(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)饅頭山南(nan)(nan),西(xi)墳在定陵(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)西(xi)北,墳內(nei)分(fen)(fen)別埋葬(zang)十(shi)六個為朱棣殉(xun)葬(zang)的(de)宮(gong)妃,因(yin)其墳形(xing)如(ru)深(shen)井,故名東井、西(xi)井。
祾恩(en)殿(dian)是嗣(si)皇(huang)帝(di)(di)祭祀永樂帝(di)(di)后的(de)(de)場所,建筑在漢白玉雕刻成的(de)(de)三層臺基(ji)上,金磚(zhuan)鋪地。殿(dian)面闊九間(jian)(66.56米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)),進深五間(jian)(29.12米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)),象征(zheng)著皇(huang)帝(di)(di)“九五”之(zhi)位。所有木(mu)(mu)件全用金絲楠木(mu)(mu)為之(zhi),古(gu)色古(gu)香。一米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)多直(zhi)徑(jing),十幾(ji)米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)高(gao)的(de)(de)六十根金絲楠木(mu)(mu)大柱,承托著二千三百平方米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)的(de)(de)重(zhong)檐廡殿(dian)頂,雄偉壯觀、舉世(shi)無雙。最粗的(de)(de)一根重(zhong)檐金柱,高(gao)12.58米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi),底徑(jing)達到1.124米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi),為世(shi)間(jian)罕(han)見佳木(mu)(mu)。
祾恩(en)(en)(en)門(men)(men)(men)為祾恩(en)(en)(en)殿殿門(men)(men)(men),始于(yu)嘉(jia)靖十(shi)七年(nian)(1538年(nian)),是世宗朱厚熜親易佳名。其(qi)中(zhong),“棱”字取(qu)“祭而(er)受福”之(zhi)意,“恩(en)(en)(en)”字取(qu)“罔極之(zhi)恩(en)(en)(en)“意,長陵(ling)棱恩(en)(en)(en)門(men)(men)(men),為單檐歇(xie)山頂(ding)形制,面闊五間(jian)(通闊31.44米(mi)),進(jin)深二間(jian)(通深14.37米(mi)),正脊頂(ding)部距地面高14.57米(mi)。檐下斗拱(gong)為單翹重昂七踩式,其(qi)平身科斗拱(gong)耍(shua)頭(tou)的后尾(wei)作(zuo)斜起的桿狀,與宋(song)清做法俱不相(xiang)同。室內明間(jian)、次間(jian)各設板(ban)門(men)(men)(men)一道(dao),稍間(jian)封以墻體。其(qi)中(zhong)明間(jian)板(ban)門(men)(men)(men)之(zhi)上安(an)有華帶(dai)式榜(bang)額(e),書(shu)“祾恩(en)(en)(en)門(men)(men)(men)”三(san)金字。
殿中(zhong)有(you)端坐于九龍寶座之上的永(yong)樂(le)皇帝銅像(xiang),形(xing)象逼(bi)真,做工精湛考(kao)究,此(ci)造像(xiang)是史上精美(mei)絕倫的藝術佳作。此(ci)外陳列(lie)著(zhu)明陵地(di)宮出土文物數百件,播放1956年(nian)發掘地(di)宮的實況錄像(xiang),幫(bang)助游人解(jie)開地(di)宮之謎。
為(wei)(wei)柱(zhu)出頭式(shi)牌坊,又稱欞星(xing)門(men)。其(qi)兩(liang)(liang)石(shi)柱(zhu),截面(mian)作(zuo)方形,頂部(bu)各雕一坐(zuo)龍(兩(liang)(liang)龍相對),前(qian)后戧(chuang)抱鼓石(shi)。柱(zhu)間木(mu)構(gou)部(bu)分(fen)仍為(wei)(wei)民國二十四(si)年(1935年)時仿(fang)景陵制增構(gou)。其(qi)制,單檐(yan)一間,黃琉璃(li)瓦頂,兩(liang)(liang)山面(mian)各置(zhi)博縫板(ban),檁(lin)枋(fang)之下置(zhi)重翹五踩品字斗拱(gong)六攢,其(qi)里外拽的拱(gong)頭、耍頭均(jun)作(zuo)三幅云形式(shi)。斗拱(gong)之下依次(ci)安裝(zhuang)平板(ban)枋(fang)、大額枋(fang)、花板(ban)、小(xiao)額枋(fang)、門(men)框、上檻(安裝(zhuang)門(men)簪四(si)枚(mei))、余塞等構(gou)件。
曾是前(qian)、后、左、右四(si)面對稱設(she)置紅券門,不僅樓(lou)體外(wai)檐斗(dou)拱系木(mu)結構,內部也都(dou)是木(mu)質的梁架(jia)結構。但(dan)因多年失修,到了清朝(chao)中(zhong)(zhong)期(qi),明十(shi)三陵(ling)的明樓(lou)凡“擱架(jia)木(mu)植者皆糟朽坍卸(xie)”。長(chang)陵(ling)明樓(lou)在修繕(shan)中(zhong)(zhong)改(gai)變(bian)了結構。明樓(lou)的上下兩檐之(zhi)間,在南面一側有(you)(you)華帶式木(mu)榜額,書(shu)“長(chang)陵(ling)”兩金字。樓(lou)內正中(zhong)(zhong)立(li)有(you)(you)“圣號(hao)碑”。碑制(zhi)為龍(long)首(shou)方趺,篆(zhuan)額“大明”,下刻(ke)“成祖文(wen)皇(huang)帝(di)之(zhi)陵(ling)”七個徑尺楷書(shu)大字。
購票(piao)價格:淡季票(piao)價(含郵資):35元(yuan)/張;旺(wang)季票(piao)價(含郵資):50元(yuan)/張
售(shou)票時間:08:30-16:30
自駕
G6京藏高(gao)速。到(dao)昌(chang)平西關環島后,向北進入京銀路(lu),500米后紅綠燈向右(you)行(xing)駛進入昌(chang)赤路(lu),沿途會(hui)經(jing)過(guo)石(shi)牌坊(fang)、十三陵總神道(簡(jian)稱神路(lu))、七孔橋(qiao)到(dao)達(da)丁字路(lu)口(kou)后,直行(xing)長陵、左轉(zhuan)定陵和(he)昭陵。
地鐵
昌平線至昌平西山口站下車(che);換(huan)乘景區(qu)循環車(che)。
公交
乘314路(lu)、872路(lu)、878路(lu)、879路(lu)、925路(lu)、昌(chang)55路(lu)、昌(chang)平32路(lu)在長陵(ling)下即到。前門、崇文門、展覽路(lu)等(deng)處(chu)有旅游專車。
位(wei)于北京市昌平區境內,距北京故宮五(wu)十(shi)公(gong)里。陵(ling)區南起石牌坊,北倚天壽(shou)山(shan)主峰。南距昌平縣城約12公(gong)里。海拔559米(mi),屬軍都山(shan)。山(shan)麓一帶黃(huang)土深厚,原名(ming)黃(huang)土山(shan),明建十(shi)三(san)(san)陵(ling)后改名(ming)天壽(shou)山(shan)。地(di)(di)勢(shi)險要,上陡下緩(huan),南臨十(shi)三(san)(san)陵(ling)盆(pen)地(di)(di);東(dong)、西扼(e)山(shan)口,古為軍事要地(di)(di)。
陵(ling)區自然環(huan)(huan)境具有(you)青山(shan)環(huan)(huan)抱、明堂(tang)開(kai)闊、水流屈(qu)曲橫過(guo)的(de)(de)特點,而(er)各陵(ling)所在位置又都背山(shan)面(mian)水,處于左右(you)護山(shan)的(de)(de)環(huan)(huan)抱之中。明長陵(ling)所在地(di)區四面(mian)環(huan)(huan)山(shan),綠樹叢叢。南面(mian)又有(you)龍虎兩山(shan)左右(you)對(dui)峙,勢如門戶。陵(ling)區平面(mian)均呈長方形(xing)(xing)(xing),后(hou)面(mian)有(you)圓形(xing)(xing)(xing)(或橢(tuo)圓形(xing)(xing)(xing))的(de)(de)寶城。建筑(zhu)自石橋起,依次(ci)分列陵(ling)門、碑亭(ting)、祾恩門、祾恩殿、明樓(lou)、寶城等。
明成(cheng)祖朱(zhu)(zhu)棣(di)奪得皇位之后十分重視北方(fang)的(de)防務(wu),并(bing)有意(yi)遷都北京(jing),最重要的(de)是在北京(jing)為(wei)(wei)自己選(xuan)擇(ze)(ze)陵(ling)址(zhi)。明朝(chao)皇帝(di)建(jian)陵(ling)選(xuan)址(zhi)最講“風(feng)水”,永(yong)(yong)樂(le)五年(nian)(1407年(nian)),仁孝徐皇后去世之后,明成(cheng)祖朱(zhu)(zhu)棣(di)并(bing)未在南京(jing)選(xuan)擇(ze)(ze)陵(ling)址(zhi)而是去北京(jing)選(xuan)擇(ze)(ze)陵(ling)址(zhi),江西(xi)(xi)術士廖均卿說昌(chang)平北有“吉壤(rang)”,叫(jiao)(jiao)黃(huang)土(tu)山(shan),山(shan)前有龍(long)虎二(er)山(shan),形成(cheng)風(feng)水寶地。寥均卿當(dang)年(nian)在選(xuan)長陵(ling)的(de)時候,給永(yong)(yong)樂(le)皇帝(di)上了一道奏折,他就說長陵(ling)的(de)水流(liu)“天(tian)門(men)(men)山(shan)拱震垣(yuan),地戶(hu)水流(liu)囚(qiu)謝。”因為(wei)(wei)在風(feng)水里(li)東(dong)(dong)南方(fang)向(xiang)(xiang)是地戶(hu)口,這個東(dong)(dong)北方(fang)向(xiang)(xiang)叫(jiao)(jiao)鬼(gui)門(men)(men),西(xi)(xi)南方(fang)向(xiang)(xiang)叫(jiao)(jiao)人門(men)(men),西(xi)(xi)北方(fang)向(xiang)(xiang)叫(jiao)(jiao)天(tian)門(men)(men)。朱(zhu)(zhu)棣(di)決定在此(ci)建(jian)造陵(ling)墓(mu),并(bing)改黃(huang)土(tu)山(shan)為(wei)(wei)天(tian)壽山(shan),于永(yong)(yong)樂(le)七年(nian)(1409年(nian))6月20日開(kai)始修(xiu)建(jian)長陵(ling)。
明長陵(ling)陵(ling)園營建(jian)時(shi)(shi)(shi),四周因山(shan)勢筑圍(wei)(wei)墻,總長達12公里,圍(wei)(wei)墻險要處設十(shi)幾個關(guan)口,并建(jian)城關(guan)、敵樓(lou),駐(zhu)(zhu)軍把(ba)守。設口駐(zhu)(zhu)軍,除(chu)保(bao)衛陵(ling)園之(zhi)外,還有(you)捍衛京(jing)師(shi)的(de)重要意義。明長陵(ling)是(shi)明朝歷代皇帝陵(ling)寢中(zhong)建(jian)筑規模較大(da),原古建(jian)筑保(bao)護完(wan)整的(de)一座(zuo)(zuo)。歷經(jing)近600年(nian),仍然(ran)金碧輝煌。工(gong)程浩繁,用(yong)料嚴格,動用(yong)了全國的(de)人力、財力。僅地下宮(gong)殿(dian)就歷時(shi)(shi)(shi)四年(nian),永樂十(shi)一年(nian)(1413年(nian))建(jian)成(cheng)。地面上建(jian)筑至(zhi)宣德二年(nian)(1427年(nian))3月基本完(wan)工(gong)。陵(ling)園的(de)先導(dao)是(shi)一座(zuo)(zuo)雕琢精(jing)細的(de)大(da)石(shi)牌坊,建(jian)于(yu)嘉靖十(shi)九年(nian)(1540年(nian)),五(wu)門六柱,額枋上有(you)11座(zuo)(zuo)帶檐的(de)小石(shi)樓(lou)。院內,明朝時(shi)(shi)(shi)建(jian)有(you)神廚(chu)(居(ju)左)、神庫(ku)(居(ju)右)各五(wu)間,神廚(chu)之(zhi)前建(jian)有(you)碑亭(ting)一座(zuo)(zuo)。神廚(chu)、神庫(ku)均毀于(yu)清代中(zhong)期,碑亭(ting)則(ze)保(bao)存至(zhi)今。
建國(guo)以后,毛澤東(dong)、鄧小平、周(zhou)恩來、劉少(shao)奇(qi)、葉劍英、宋慶齡、楊尚昆(kun)、萬里、彭真、阿(a)沛(pei).阿(a)旺晉美、郭沫若等老一輩國(guo)家(jia)領導(dao)人,在百忙中都(dou)到(dao)過長陵(ling)。毛澤東(dong)曾三次到(dao)長陵(ling)。鄧小平、劉少(shao)奇(qi)來過兩次。英國(guo)女王伊麗(li)莎白(bai)二(er)世及(ji)丈夫愛(ai)丁堡公爵(jue)菲利普親王、瑞典首(shou)相(xiang)約蘭.佩爾(er)松、德國(guo)總統羅曼.赫爾(er)佐克等國(guo)家(jia)首(shou)腦到(dao)長陵(ling)參觀后表示非常贊賞(shang)。
明(ming)(ming)(ming)長(chang)陵(ling)具有(you)重要的(de)(de)(de)(de)歷史、文物價值(zhi)。著名古建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)專家羅哲文評價說:“明(ming)(ming)(ming)十(shi)三(san)陵(ling)建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)價值(zhi)極高,長(chang)陵(ling)的(de)(de)(de)(de)楠木殿(dian)(dian)其規(gui)模是(shi)(shi)全國唯一的(de)(de)(de)(de),石(shi)雕精湛,明(ming)(ming)(ming)十(shi)三(san)陵(ling)無論(lun)是(shi)(shi)從(cong)建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)形(xing)(xing)式(shi)(shi),還是(shi)(shi)建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)結構(gou)(gou),或建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)藝術(shu)上(shang)(shang)看(kan),是(shi)(shi)明(ming)(ming)(ming)代(dai)(dai)(dai)建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)實物歷史。”我國的(de)(de)(de)(de)古建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)技(ji)術(shu),宋(song)(song)代(dai)(dai)(dai)有(you)《營造法(fa)式(shi)(shi)》,清代(dai)(dai)(dai)有(you)《工部工程(cheng)做(zuo)法(fa)則例》,都(dou)是(shi)(shi)官(guan)修(xiu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)工程(cheng)用(yong)(yong)書。但處于宋(song)(song)、清兩代(dai)(dai)(dai)之(zhi)間的(de)(de)(de)(de)元(yuan)、明(ming)(ming)(ming)兩代(dai)(dai)(dai)卻都(dou)沒(mei)(mei)有(you)官(guan)修(xiu)建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)用(yong)(yong)讀書。因(yin)此(ci),元(yuan)明(ming)(ming)(ming)二代(dai)(dai)(dai)遺留下(xia)來的(de)(de)(de)(de)古建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian),就(jiu)成為建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)史學界研究元(yuan)明(ming)(ming)(ming)兩代(dai)(dai)(dai)建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)法(fa)式(shi)(shi)、特點的(de)(de)(de)(de)基本素(su)材(cai)。特別是(shi)(shi)像明(ming)(ming)(ming)長(chang)陵(ling)的(de)(de)(de)(de)祾恩殿(dian)(dian)這樣的(de)(de)(de)(de)高等級(ji)的(de)(de)(de)(de)明(ming)(ming)(ming)代(dai)(dai)(dai)官(guan)式(shi)(shi)建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu),更(geng)是(shi)(shi)不(bu)可(ke)多得的(de)(de)(de)(de)珍貴(gui)實物。這座大殿(dian)(dian)從(cong)結構(gou)(gou)上(shang)(shang)看(kan),屬疊梁(liang)式(shi)(shi)構(gou)(gou)架體(ti)系,不(bu)推山。宋(song)(song)元(yuan)時(shi)期的(de)(de)(de)(de)叉手、托腳等構(gou)(gou)件已不(bu)采用(yong)(yong),宋(song)(song)元(yuan)時(shi)期的(de)(de)(de)(de)襻間斗(dou)拱(gong)(gong)也(ye)按照“檁、墊(dian)、彷”的(de)(de)(de)(de)組合方式(shi)(shi)由墊(dian)板代(dai)(dai)(dai)替(ti)。整體(ti)結構(gou)(gou)更(geng)趨(qu)簡化,節點更(geng)趨(qu)牢固。由于梁(liang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)外(wai)(wai)端做(zuo)成巨大的(de)(de)(de)(de)耍頭伸出斗(dou)失之(zhi)外(wai)(wai),柱頭科(ke)斗(dou)拱(gong)(gong)的(de)(de)(de)(de)機能發生了變化。但如果挑檐檁因(yin)受力向下(xia)彎曲(qu),平身科(ke)斗(dou)拱(gong)(gong)仍能起(qi)到懸(xuan)挑的(de)(de)(de)(de)作用(yong)(yong)。平身科(ke)斗(dou)拱(gong)(gong)的(de)(de)(de)(de)形(xing)(xing)制(zhi)采用(yong)(yong)了宋(song)(song)元(yuan)兩代(dai)(dai)(dai)都(dou)沒(mei)(mei)有(you)的(de)(de)(de)(de)落金式(shi)(shi)鎏金斗(dou)拱(gong)(gong)。斗(dou)拱(gong)(gong)后(hou)尾部分均(jun)呈(cheng)30°角(jiao)斜向上(shang)(shang)伸,真(zhen)假昂并(bing)用(yong)(yong)。