創辦于1867年,杭州知名老牌面食餐館,以其歷史長/規模大/特色鮮明而飲譽國內外,旗下頗具特色的產品有蝦爆鱔面/片兒川等
奎元館面店(dian)(簡稱奎元館)1867年(清同治(zhi)六年)創辦于杭州,創辦人(ren)系(xi)安徽籍人(ren)士,姓(xing)名(ming)無可考證(zheng)。該店(dian)雖幾易其(qi)主,但其(qi)經營面條的業務始終未(wei)變,且以歷史長、規(gui)模(mo)大、特色鮮明而飲譽國內外(wai)。
奎元(yuan)館(guan)的(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條自(zi)有(you)其特色(se):選用(yong)的(de)(de)(de)(de)是(shi)(shi)好的(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉,專(zhuan)人(ren)(ren)(ren)制作(zuo),面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條要做(zuo)到下水后(hou)燒(shao)(shao)而不糊,韌而滑口(kou),吃(chi)起來(lai)有(you)筋;面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)上(shang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)配(pei)(pei)料也要十分講究。“片兒川”是(shi)(shi)奎元(yuan)館(guan)的(de)(de)(de)(de)特色(se)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)之一(yi)(yi),相傳(chuan)是(shi)(shi)從蘇東坡在(zai)杭(hang)州做(zuo)館(guan)時寫的(de)(de)(de)(de)“無肉(rou)令(ling)人(ren)(ren)(ren)瘦,無竹(zhu)令(ling)人(ren)(ren)(ren)俗”中得到的(de)(de)(de)(de)啟示。它以(yi)新鮮(xian)腿肉(rou)、時鮮(xian)竹(zhu)筍、綠嫩雪菜(cai)作(zuo)為(wei)原料,經(jing)烹制后(hou),色(se)香(xiang)味俱全(quan),令(ling)人(ren)(ren)(ren)饞涎四(si)滴。有(you)人(ren)(ren)(ren)嘗后(hou)感嘆著說:“有(you)筍有(you)肉(rou)不瘦不俗,雪菜(cai)燒(shao)(shao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)神仙口(kou)福。”“蝦爆鱔面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”也是(shi)(shi)聲名遠播(bo)的(de)(de)(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)種(zhong)特色(se)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。據說在(zai)清末(mo)杭(hang)州一(yi)(yi)帶(dai)水網密布,盛(sheng)產鱔魚(yu),河(he)蝦大都(dou)被魚(yu)兒吃(chi)掉了顯得珍貴,漁民為(wei)了推銷鱔魚(yu)就以(yi)河(he)蝦搭配(pei)(pei)。奎元(yuan)館(guan)便用(yong)蝦鱔制作(zuo)一(yi)(yi)道(dao)菜(cai):蝦肉(rou)鱔肉(rou)用(yong)油(you)爆炒后(hou)再以(yi)香(xiang)麻油(you)淋,加(jia)上(shang)紅(hong)的(de)(de)(de)(de)椒絲、綠的(de)(de)(de)(de)蔥絲或黃瓜(gua)絲,放在(zai)這樣(yang)一(yi)(yi)碗面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)上(shang),任誰也沒辦法(fa)抵擋得住(zhu)它的(de)(de)(de)(de)誘惑(huo)力(li)。為(wei)了配(pei)(pei)合酒(jiu)客的(de)(de)(de)(de)需要,面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)澆頭(tou)也可分別裝盆,連(lian)同(tong)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)一(yi)(yi)起上(shang)桌,可用(yong)澆頭(tou)下酒(jiu),酒(jiu)喝完把剩下的(de)(de)(de)(de)澆頭(tou)放到面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)里再吃(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。
奎元館(guan)經(jing)營的(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食品種(zhong)(zhong)達百種(zhong)(zhong)之多,但負盛名(ming)的(de)(de)(de)(de)要數片兒川(chuan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)和爆鱔面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。奎元館(guan)的(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)要稱作“坐面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”,選用無(wu)(wu)錫頭號面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉,由專人(ren)制作,用手工捍上勁后,還(huan)得墊(dian)上一根碗口(kou)粗、9尺(chi)(chi)長(chang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)竹(zhu)杠,再用人(ren)工坐研半個小時(shi)(shi)左右,每30斤面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉打(da)成8尺(chi)(chi)寬、7尺(chi)(chi)長(chang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)皮,可切成3分(fen)左右的(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條。“坐面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”燒而(er)不糊,韌(ren)而(er)滑口(kou),吃起來有“筋骨(gu)”,面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)料(liao)配(pei)制也十分(fen)講(jiang)究(jiu)。片而(er)川(chuan)配(pei)料(liao)相傳是從宋朝詩人(ren)蘇東坡在杭(hang)州做地方官(guan)時(shi)(shi)所寫(xie)的(de)(de)(de)(de)“無(wu)(wu)肉令(ling)人(ren)瘦,無(wu)(wu)筍(sun)(sun)令(ling)人(ren)俗(su)(su)”之句(ju)得到啟示而(er)來的(de)(de)(de)(de)。它以新鮮腿肉、時(shi)(shi)鮮竹(zhu)筍(sun)(sun)、綠(lv)嫩雪菜作為原料(liao),經(jing)廚師烹制,當(dang)一碗熱(re)氣騰騰的(de)(de)(de)(de)片兒川(chuan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)端上餐時(shi)(shi),只(zhi)見(jian)肉紅(hong)、筍(sun)(sun)白、菜綠(lv),色(se)澤(ze)分(fen)明(ming),引人(ren)食欲。難怪后人(ren)常言,“有筍(sun)(sun)有肉不瘦不俗(su)(su),雪菜燒面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)神仙口(kou)福”。
蝦(xia)爆鱔面的(de)搭配也有一段經(jing)歷。據(ju)說清同(tong)治年間,錢塘(tang)一帶盛產(chan)鱔魚(yu),淡水河(he)蝦(xia)卻(que)不甚多,顯得(de)名貴。漁民們為(wei)了推銷鱔面,就以鱔、河(he)蝦(xia)配售。奎元館選用(yong)的(de)河(he)蝦(xia)大(da)小勻稱,現(xian)賣(mai)現(xian)燒。鱔魚(yu)規定(ding)要有大(da)拇指粗,每(mei)斤(jin)5條左(zuo)右,這樣(yang)大(da)小的(de)鱔魚(yu),正處于“壯年”肉厚質嫩(nen)(nen)。爆鱔面在烹(peng)調時,采用(yong)“三油(you)(you)”爆炒(chao),即先用(yong)菜油(you)(you)爆,次用(yong)豬油(you)(you)炒(chao),再用(yong)麻油(you)(you)燒。這樣(yang)蝦(xia)嫩(nen)(nen)鱔脆,香氣襲人,味(wei)道美不勝言(yan)。