大殿(dian)面闊、進深各3間,平面近(jin)方形(xing),單檐(yan)歇(xie)山灰色(se)筒板瓦頂(ding)。檐(yan)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)12根(gen),其中3根(gen)抹棱方柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)當是始建時遺物(wu)。殿(dian)前有寬敞的(de)月臺,殿(dian)內(nei)無柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)。殿(dian)內(nei)有泥(ni)塑佛像(xiang)17尊,安(an)置在凹形(xing)的(de)磚砌佛壇上(shang),佛壇上(shang)后部正中為釋(shi)迦牟(mou)尼塑像(xiang),莊嚴肅穆,總高近(jin)4米,基本保存(cun)了原有風貌,是現存(cun)唐代塑像(xiang)的(de)杰出作品。1961年(nian)定為全國重(zhong)點文物(wu)保護單位。
山(shan)(shan)西(xi)五臺山(shan)(shan)南禪(chan)寺大(da)(da)殿(dian),解放后在(zai)東冶鎮(zhen)李(li)家(jia)莊被發現(xian)。寺院坐北向南,有山(shan)(shan)門、龍王殿(dian)、菩(pu)薩殿(dian)和大(da)(da)佛(fo)殿(dian)等主要建(jian)筑,圍(wei)成一(yi)個四合院形(xing)式。除(chu)大(da)(da)佛(fo)殿(dian)是唐代原物(wu)外(wai),其余幾座殿(dian)宇都是明、清時所建(jian)。
寺(si)的創建(jian)(jian)年(nian)(nian)代不詳,重建(jian)(jian)于(yu)唐(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)德宗(zong)建(jian)(jian)中(zhong)(zhong)三(san)(san)年(nian)(nian) (782)。是所知存(cun)(cun)留到今(jin),早(zao)的較為完整的木構(gou)遺物。寺(si)內(nei)大(da)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)西縫(feng)平梁(liang)下,保(bao)存(cun)(cun)有唐(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)人墨(mo)書字:“因舊(jiu)名旹(時(shi)(shi))大(da)唐(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)建(jian)(jian)中(zhong)(zhong)三(san)(san)年(nian)(nian)歲次壬戌月居戊申丙(bing)寅朔庚(geng)午日癸(gui)未時(shi)(shi)重修(xiu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)法顯等(deng)謹志”,是寺(si)宇殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)堂重建(jian)(jian)年(nian)(nian)代之證,較佛光寺(si)東大(da)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)早(zao)75年(nian)(nian)。殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)內(nei)佛像(xiang)與殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇同時(shi)(shi)建(jian)(jian)造(zao),是中(zhong)(zhong)國(guo)除敦(dun)煌外稀有的中(zhong)(zhong)唐(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)彩塑。唐(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)武宗(zong)會昌(chang)五年(nian)(nian) (845)滅(mie)法,中(zhong)(zhong)國(guo)佛寺(si)大(da)都毀壞,而南禪寺(si)由(you)于(yu)規(gui)模較小,處地偏僻,且州府(fu)縣志和佛教(jiao)經籍上均無記(ji)載,幸免于(yu)難,留存(cun)(cun)至今(jin)。后(hou)經宋、元(yuan)、明、清各代,雖曾有過一(yi)些維修(xiu)和裝繪,兩廂配殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)和山門均經重葺(qi),但唐(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)式大(da)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)的規(gui)制結構(gou)和殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)內(nei)唐(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)代塑像(xiang)的體貌(mao)都依舊(jiu)保(bao)存(cun)(cun)了(le)下來。
南禪寺大(da)佛(fo)殿(dian)較小(xiao),殿(dian)內沒有(you)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)子(zi)。在殿(dian)內中(zhong)心(xin)稍后(hou),有(you)高0.7米(mi)的(de)“凹”字形佛(fo)壇,沿壇可(ke)以(yi)通(tong)(tong)行,壇上(shang)(shang)有(you)佛(fo)教(jiao)造(zao)(zao)像17尊,都是(shi)(shi)唐(tang)代(dai)原塑,有(you)很高的(de)藝術價值。大(da)殿(dian)單檐(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)歇山(shan)頂,平面(mian)正方(fang)形,面(mian)闊(kuo)進深(shen)(shen)各(ge)三(san)間(jian),通(tong)(tong)面(mian)闊(kuo) 11.75米(mi),進深(shen)(shen)10米(mi)。殿(dian)前(qian)(qian)月(yue)臺寬敞。前(qian)(qian)檐(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)明間(jian)辟板門,兩(liang)(liang)次間(jian)為破子(zi)欞窗。殿(dian)四周施(shi)(shi)檐(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)12根,西山(shan)施(shi)(shi)抹楞方(fang)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu) 3根,皆(jie)(jie)為創建時的(de)原物,余皆(jie)(jie)圓柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu),柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)底自然料石(shi)作柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)礎。各(ge)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)微(wei)向內傾(qing),角(jiao)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)增(zeng)高,側腳、生起顯(xian)著(zhu)(zhu)。柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)間(jian)用闌額(e)聯系(xi),無(wu)(wu)(wu)普柏枋,轉角(jiao)處闌額(e)不出(chu)頭(tou)(tou),唐(tang)代(dai)特征顯(xian)著(zhu)(zhu)。殿(dian)內無(wu)(wu)(wu)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu),無(wu)(wu)(wu)天花板徹上(shang)(shang)露明造(zao)(zao)。通(tong)(tong)長的(de)兩(liang)(liang)根四椽栿(fa)橫架于(yu)前(qian)(qian)后(hou)檐(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)之(zhi)上(shang)(shang),栿(fa)上(shang)(shang)施(shi)(shi)繳背,通(tong)(tong)達前(qian)(qian)后(hou)檐(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)外,再(zai)上(shang)(shang)為駝峰(feng)、大(da)斗(dou)、捧節令栱、承(cheng)(cheng)平梁(liang)(liang)(liang)和平榑。平梁(liang)(liang)(liang)兩(liang)(liang)端(duan)施(shi)(shi)托(tuo)腳,其上(shang)(shang)用大(da)叉手承(cheng)(cheng)托(tuo)脊榑,無(wu)(wu)(wu)駝峰(feng)與侏儒柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)。這種(zhong)構造(zao)(zao)是(shi)(shi)漢唐(tang)期間(jian)的(de)古制(zhi),五(wu)代(dai)以(yi)后(hou)已不復(fu)見。梁(liang)(liang)(liang)架兩(liang)(liang)山(shan)用丁(ding)栿(fa),轉角(jiao)處僅(jin)(jin)設搭牽一道(dao),承(cheng)(cheng)椽枋與平榑相交之(zhi)點(dian),用直(zhi)斗(dou)承(cheng)(cheng)托(tuo)。梁(liang)(liang)(liang)栿(fa)形制(zhi)皆(jie)(jie)為月(yue)梁(liang)(liang)(liang)式。檐(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)上(shang)(shang)施(shi)(shi)斗(dou)栱承(cheng)(cheng)托(tuo)屋檐(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan),無(wu)(wu)(wu)補間(jian)鋪作,古制(zhi)猶存。柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)頭(tou)(tou)斗(dou)栱五(wu)鋪作,雙抄單栱偷心(xin)造(zao)(zao),前(qian)(qian)后(hou)檐(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)華(hua)栱兩(liang)(liang)跳皆(jie)(jie)足材。第二跳華(hua)栱系(xi)四椽栿(fa)伸(shen)至檐(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)外制(zhi)成(cheng),繳背伸(shen)出(chu)檐(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)下砍成(cheng)耍頭(tou)(tou),與令栱搭交承(cheng)(cheng)替木和撩檐(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)榑。兩(liang)(liang)山(shan)斗(dou)栱上(shang)(shang)的(de)耍頭(tou)(tou),是(shi)(shi)丁(ding)栿(fa)外端(duan)。轉角(jiao)處施(shi)(shi)45度斜(xie)栱,令栱制(zhi)成(cheng)鴛鴉交首栱。柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)頭(tou)(tou)泥道(dao)栱之(zhi)上(shang)(shang),疊架柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)頭(tou)(tou)枋兩(liang)(liang)層,下層隱刻(ke)慢栱,上(shang)(shang)層置駝峰(feng),皿板、散(san)斗(dou)承(cheng)(cheng)壓槽(cao)枋。各(ge)栱卷殺(sha)皆(jie)(jie)分(fen)五(wu)瓣,每瓣微(wei)向內傾(qing),這種(zhong)作法(fa)曾見于(yu)齊隋(sui)間(jian)石(shi)窟窟檐(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)和墓葬雕刻(ke)斗(dou)栱之(zhi)上(shang)(shang),建筑實物中(zhong)此為僅(jin)(jin)見之(zhi)例。
殿頂舉折平緩,總舉高為前后撩檐榑之間的1/5.15,即19.4%。檐出(chu)部分(fen)僅施檐椽一層,不(bu)加飛椽。翼角(jiao)處(chu)大角(jiao)梁通達內外,無子(zi)角(jiao)梁,平直古(gu)樸。
殿內(nei)佛壇寬(kuan)大,約(yue)占室內(nei)面積的(de)二(er)(er)(er)分之一。壇上彩塑(su)17尊,皆為(wei)唐物。主像(xiang)釋(shi)迦佛,體(ti)形(xing)高大,結(jie)跏趺坐于束腰(yao)須(xu)彌座上。兩(liang)側有(you)文殊、普(pu)賢各騎獅像(xiang)。主像(xiang)兩(liang)側為(wei)阿(a)難、迦葉(xie)二(er)(er)(er)弟(di)子和二(er)(er)(er)脅侍菩薩(sa)。文殊、普(pu)賢前(qian)隅(yu)有(you)獠(liao)蠻、拂菻牽引獅象和二(er)(er)(er)童子仰望,再(zai)前(qian)為(wei)二(er)(er)(er)侍立菩薩(sa)和二(er)(er)(er)天(tian)王。釋(shi)迦前(qian)面有(you)二(er)(er)(er)供(gong)養菩薩(sa)置蓮臺上。各像(xiang)比例適度,面形(xing)豐滿,衣飾華麗(li),神態自如,體(ti)形(xing)較六(liu)朝柔(rou)和。與(yu)敦煌唐塑(su)相較,如出一轍,是中國現(xian)存寺(si)觀彩塑(su)中的(de)珍品。
此外,南禪寺還保存有角石2塊(kuai),石獅(shi)3軀,小石塔(ta)1座,雕工(gong)精練(lian)。
南禪寺年久失修,大殿(dian)木構(gou)件有所(suo)風化,地(di)震沖擊后梁架(jia)向東歪閃,檐柱向前傾斜(xie),部分構(gou)件脫榫劈裂,四椽受壓彎垂10余厘米。經過實地(di)發掘、測繪設計,制(zhi)成修復方案,1974~1975年落架(jia)修繕。
南(nan)(nan)禪寺(si)大(da)(da)(da)殿(dian)雖然很小(xiao),但(dan)人(ren)們仍可以(yi)(yi)從中感受(shou)(shou)到(dao)大(da)(da)(da)唐(tang)建筑(zhu)的(de)(de)(de)藝(yi)術(shu)性格(ge)。舒緩的(de)(de)(de)屋頂,雄(xiong)大(da)(da)(da)疏朗(lang)的(de)(de)(de)斗拱,簡(jian)潔明朗(lang)的(de)(de)(de)構(gou)圖,體現出一(yi)種雍(yong)容大(da)(da)(da)度,氣度不凡,健(jian)康而爽朗(lang)的(de)(de)(de)格(ge)調;同時,還可以(yi)(yi)從南(nan)(nan)禪寺(si)的(de)(de)(de)大(da)(da)(da)殿(dian)看到(dao)中唐(tang)時期木結構(gou)梁架已經有用“材”(栱高)作為木構(gou)用料標準的(de)(de)(de)現象(xiang),說(shuo)明我國唐(tang)代(dai)建筑(zhu)技(ji)術(shu)已有很高水平(ping)。中國古(gu)代(dai)建筑(zhu)受(shou)(shou)等(deng)級(ji)約束,南(nan)(nan)禪寺(si)是村落中的(de)(de)(de)小(xiao)佛(fo)寺(si),是非(fei)正式的(de)(de)(de)村佛(fo)堂,故至多(duo)(duo)與貴(gui)邸的(de)(de)(de)廳堂近似,使用廳堂型構(gou)架,造低(di)一(yi)個(ge)等(deng)級(ji)的(de)(de)(de)歇(xie)山屋頂。晚唐(tang)時期的(de)(de)(de)武(wu)宗“會(hui)昌滅法”,使得大(da)(da)(da)多(duo)(duo)數(shu)佛(fo)寺(si)遭(zao)受(shou)(shou)到(dao)破壞(huai)(huai)。南(nan)(nan)禪寺(si)由于地處偏僻而幸免(mian)毀壞(huai)(huai),這也(ye)從另外一(yi)個(ge)角度說(shuo)明當(dang)時的(de)(de)(de)建造技(ji)術(shu)已經相當(dang)的(de)(de)(de)普及了。