山(shan)西(xi)是面(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)之鄉,面(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)種(zhong)類(lei)繁多,其中以刀削面(mian)(mian)(mian)最為有名,可謂(wei)“面(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)之王”,它有內虛外筋、柔軟光滑、易于消化等特(te)點,與北(bei)京(jing)的(de)打鹵(lu)面(mian)(mian)(mian)、山(shan)東的(de)伊(yi)府面(mian)(mian)(mian)、武(wu)漢的(de)熱(re)干面(mian)(mian)(mian)、四川的(de)擔擔面(mian)(mian)(mian)被譽為我國著名的(de)五大(da)面(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)。
在山西各地的刀削面(mian)中,最出名的莫過(guo)于大(da)同的刀削面(mian),可(ke)稱“面(mian)食王中王”。
大(da)同刀削(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)物美價廉,色、香、味俱(ju)全,形成了獨特的大(da)同風格,很多外地朋友來到(dao)大(da)同,在品嘗(chang)之(zhi)后(hou)(hou),都贊不絕口。一(yi)(yi)些本地游子,在回到(dao)家鄉之(zhi)后(hou)(hou),都要先趕去削(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)店,去吃一(yi)(yi)碗刀削(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian),來解日夜思(si)念(nian)之(zhi)情.
在大(da)同(tong),刀(dao)削(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)店比(bi)(bi)比(bi)(bi)皆(jie)是,比(bi)(bi)較出(chu)名的(de)(de)也(ye)有(you)很(hen)多,如:東方削(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、七中刀(dao)削(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、東關(guan)(guan)刀(dao)削(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、小南街刀(dao)削(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、老柴(chai)家刀(dao)削(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)等。其中“東關(guan)(guan)刀(dao)削(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”是大(da)同(tong)刀(dao)削(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)里最(zui)出(chu)名的(de)(de)一家,很(hen)多外地客人寧(ning)可舍棄(qi)大(da)魚大(da)肉(rou)的(de)(de)豪華(hua)宴席(xi),也(ye)要來這里專門品(pin)嘗。據說(shuo),最(zui)熱鬧的(de)(de)時候這個店一天就(jiu)用(yong)掉18袋(dai)白面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),賣出(chu)2000碗(wan)刀(dao)削(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。由此可見刀(dao)削(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)在大(da)同(tong)的(de)(de)魅(mei)力真的(de)(de)令人嘆為觀止。
大同(tong)刀削(xue)面(mian)不(bu)僅在(zai)味道上(shang)征服了食(shi)客,在(zai)經(jing)營理念(nian)上(shang)也是(shi)無與(yu)倫比(bi)的(de)。在(zai)大同(tong)地(di)(di)區每家削(xue)面(mian)館都(dou)有店主準備的(de)免費咸(xian)菜(cai)(cai)供(gong)食(shi)客食(shi)用,主要是(shi)酸(suan)菜(cai)(cai)、黑(hei)咸(xian)菜(cai)(cai)(一(yi)種(zhong)咸(xian)菜(cai)(cai)),又推出了多種(zhong)口味的(de)涼(liang)拌菜(cai)(cai),雖然(ran)涼(liang)拌菜(cai)(cai)收費,但五角、一(yi)元(yuan)的(de)價(jia)格(ge)還是(shi)很便宜的(de)。另(ling)外,大同(tong)刀削(xue)面(mian)還有多種(zhong)特(te)色的(de)美食(shi)供(gong)食(shi)客品嘗,較(jiao)常見的(de)有丸子、鹵(lu)雞蛋(dan)、鹵(lu)豆腐、鹵(lu)豆干(gan)等(deng)等(deng),價(jia)格(ge)都(dou)不(bu)貴(gui),也是(shi)五角、一(yi)塊(kuai)不(bu)等(deng)。一(yi)塊(kuai)不(bu)錯的(de)燒肉才幾塊(kuai)錢。在(zai)面(mian)館里(li),美美地(di)(di)吃(chi)上(shang)一(yi)頓不(bu)過(guo)八(ba)九元(yuan),這是(shi)在(zai)其他地(di)(di)方(fang)所享(xiang)受不(bu)到(dao)的(de)。這體現了大同(tong)人的(de)實在(zai)。
大(da)同的(de)刀削面(mian)(mian)之所以會獨樹一(yi)幟,主要(yao)與(yu)它的(de)做(zuo)工有關(guan)系,首先刀削面(mian)(mian)對(dui)和面(mian)(mian)的(de)技術要(yao)求較嚴,水、面(mian)(mian)的(de)比例,要(yao)求準確,一(yi)般是(shi)一(yi)斤面(mian)(mian)三兩水,打(da)成面(mian)(mian)穗,再揉(rou)(rou)成面(mian)(mian)團,然后用濕布(bu)蒙住,餳半小時(shi)后再揉(rou)(rou),直到(dao)揉(rou)(rou)勻、揉(rou)(rou)軟、揉(rou)(rou)光。如(ru)果(guo)揉(rou)(rou)面(mian)(mian)功夫不到(dao),削時(shi)容易粘(zhan)刀、斷(duan)條(tiao)。
刀削面之妙在刀功。刀,一般不使(shi)用萊刀,要(yao)用特制的弧形(xing)削刀。
先(xian)用(yong)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、水5∶3的(de)(de)(de)比例和好(hao)(hao)(hao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(水溫為冬(dong)熱、夏涼、春(chun)秋(qiu)溫),然后(hou)用(yong)濕布蓋住(zhu)(zhu),醒20分(fen)鐘。把醒好(hao)(hao)(hao)的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)團揉成(cheng)橢圓形面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)塊(kuai)放在(zai)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)案(an)上,左臂托案(an),右(you)手(shou)拿砍面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)刀(dao)(砍面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)刀(dao)是一種(zhong)特制(zhi)帶把的(de)(de)(de)刀(dao),刀(dao)片很薄(bo),刀(dao)的(de)(de)(de)重(zhong)量(liang)輕),用(yong)右(you)手(shou)的(de)(de)(de)四指握住(zhu)(zhu)刀(dao)把,用(yong)小(xiao)拇指頂住(zhu)(zhu)刀(dao)柄(bing)頭,砍面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)時先(xian)從(cong)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)塊(kuai)的(de)(de)(de)里端開刀(dao),第二(er)刀(dao)接(jie)前(qian)部刀(dao)口,用(yong)前(qian)挑后(hou)砍的(de)(de)(de)方(fang)式砍下一根(gen)根(gen)長(chang)約30厘米的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)下入(ru)鍋(guo)。注意出力要(yao)平,用(yong)力要(yao)勻,這樣削出的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)葉兒,一葉連一葉,恰(qia)似流星(xing)趕月,在(zai)空(kong)中劃出一道弧形白(bai)線,面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)葉落入(ru)湯鍋(guo),湯滾(gun)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)翻,又像銀(yin)魚戲水,煞是好(hao)(hao)(hao)看,熟(shu)練的(de)(de)(de)廚(chu)師,每(mei)分(fen)鐘能削一百(bai)多刀(dao),每(mei)條(tiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)葉的(de)(de)(de)長(chang)度,恰(qia)好(hao)(hao)(hao)都是六寸。
削(xue)(xue)面(mian)與抻面(mian)、撥魚、刀(dao)撥面(mian)并稱(cheng)為山西四大面(mian)食(shi)(shi)(shi)。清末《素食(shi)(shi)(shi)說略》已有(you)載(zai)。傳(chuan)統的操作方法(fa)是一(yi)手(shou)(shou)托面(mian),一(yi)手(shou)(shou)拿刀(dao),直接削(xue)(xue)到開(kai)水鍋(guo)里。1958年山西省(sheng)財資系統在省(sheng)城(cheng)太(tai)原技(ji)術(shu)比武時,高手(shou)(shou)們(men)(men)削(xue)(xue)出的面(mian)條(tiao),每(mei)條(tiao)長21厘米(mi)左右,厚0.2―0.4厘米(mi)。每(mei)分鐘削(xue)(xue)118刀(dao),每(mei)小時可削(xue)(xue)2500克面(mian)粉揉成的濕(shi)面(mian)團,看得人們(men)(men)眼(yan)花繚亂(luan),贊(zan)不絕口(kou)。有(you)順口(kou)溜贊(zan)曰:“一(yi)葉落鍋(guo)一(yi)葉飄(piao),一(yi)葉離面(mian)又(you)出刀(dao),銀魚落水翻白浪,柳葉乘風下樹梢。”1983年5月,日本國(guo)明星食(shi)(shi)(shi)品株式(shi)會社(she)(she)社(she)(she)員八原昌元先生(sheng)專程來太(tai)原拍攝面(mian)食(shi)(shi)(shi)制作電視片(pian)時,參觀了晉陽飯店、太(tai)原面(mian)食(shi)(shi)(shi)店的師(shi)傅們(men)(men)的精(jing)湛技(ji)術(shu)表(biao)演后說:“世(shi)界面(mian)食(shi)(shi)(shi)在中國(guo),中國(guo)面(mian)食(shi)(shi)(shi)在山西,太(tai)原不愧(kui)是面(mian)食(shi)(shi)(shi)的故鄉(xiang)”。
傳(chuan)統(tong)的操作方法是(shi)(shi)一(yi)手(shou)(shou)托面,一(yi)手(shou)(shou)拿刀,直接削到開水鍋(guo)里,其(qi)要訣是(shi)(shi):“刀不(bu)離面,面不(bu)離刀,胳膊(bo)直硬手(shou)(shou)平,手(shou)(shou)端一(yi)條線,一(yi)棱趕一(yi)棱,平刀是(shi)(shi)扁條,彎刀是(shi)(shi)三棱。”要說吃了(le)刀削面是(shi)(shi)飽(bao)(bao)了(le)口福,那么觀(guan)看刀削面則飽(bao)(bao)了(le)眼(yan)福。1985年山西財貿(mao)系統(tong)在太原技術比武(wu)時,飲(yin)食(shi)行(xing)業的削面高手(shou)(shou)每分鐘削118刀,每小時可削25公斤面粉的濕面團(tuan),看得人眼(yan)花繚亂。有順(shun)口溜贊曰:“一(yi)葉(xie)(xie)落鍋(guo)一(yi)葉(xie)(xie)飄,一(yi)葉(xie)(xie)離面又出(chu)刀,銀(yin)魚落水翻白(bai)浪,柳(liu)葉(xie)(xie)乘風下(xia)樹梢。”
刀(dao)(dao)(dao)削面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)同北(bei)京(jing)的(de)(de)打鹵(lu)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、山(shan)東的(de)(de)伊(yi)府面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、武漢(han)(han)(han)的(de)(de)熱干面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、四川的(de)(de)擔擔面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),同稱(cheng)為(wei)中(zhong)(zhong)國五大面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)名品,在(zai)國內外享有盛譽。關于刀(dao)(dao)(dao)削面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)還(huan)有一(yi)(yi)個(ge)古老(lao)(lao)(lao)(lao)的(de)(de)傳說(shuo)。蒙(meng)古韃靼侵占(zhan)中(zhong)(zhong)原后(hou)(hou),建立元朝(chao)。為(wei)防止“漢(han)(han)(han)人”造反起義,他(ta)們將家家戶(hu)戶(hu)的(de)(de)金屬全(quan)部沒(mei)收,并規定10戶(hu)用(yong)廚(chu)刀(dao)(dao)(dao)一(yi)(yi)把(ba),切(qie)菜做飯輪流(liu)使用(yong),用(yong)后(hou)(hou)再交回(hui)韃靼保管。一(yi)(yi)天中(zhong)(zhong)午,一(yi)(yi)位老(lao)(lao)(lao)(lao)婆婆和(he)好(hao)(hao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)后(hou)(hou),讓老(lao)(lao)(lao)(lao)漢(han)(han)(han)去(qu)(qu)取(qu)刀(dao)(dao)(dao),結果刀(dao)(dao)(dao)被別(bie)人取(qu)走,老(lao)(lao)(lao)(lao)漢(han)(han)(han)只好(hao)(hao)返(fan)回(hui)。在(zai)出韃靼的(de)(de)大門(men)時(shi),老(lao)(lao)(lao)(lao)漢(han)(han)(han)的(de)(de)腳(jiao)被一(yi)(yi)塊(kuai)(kuai)薄鐵皮(pi)碰(peng)了一(yi)(yi)下,他(ta)順(shun)手撿起來揣(chuai)在(zai)懷里(li)(li)。回(hui)家后(hou)(hou),鍋開得(de)(de)直響,全(quan)家人等刀(dao)(dao)(dao)切(qie)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)吃,可是刀(dao)(dao)(dao)沒(mei)取(qu)回(hui)來,老(lao)(lao)(lao)(lao)漢(han)(han)(han)急得(de)(de)團團轉(zhuan),忽(hu)然想起懷里(li)(li)的(de)(de)鐵皮(pi),就取(qu)出來說(shuo):就用(yong)這個(ge)鐵皮(pi)切(qie)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)吧(ba)。老(lao)(lao)(lao)(lao)婆婆一(yi)(yi)看,鐵皮(pi)薄而軟,嘟囔著說(shuo):“這樣軟的(de)(de)東西怎能切(qie)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)?”老(lao)(lao)(lao)(lao)漢(han)(han)(han)氣憤地說(shuo):“切(qie)不動就砍(kan)。”“砍(kan)”字提(ti)醒了老(lao)(lao)(lao)(lao)婆,她把(ba)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)團放在(zai)一(yi)(yi)塊(kuai)(kuai)木(mu)板上(shang),左手端起,右(you)手持(chi)鐵片(pian),站在(zai)開水鍋邊“砍(kan)”面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),一(yi)(yi)片(pian)片(pian)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)葉落入鍋內,煮熟后(hou)(hou)撈到(dao)碗里(li)(li),澆上(shang)鹵(lu)汁讓老(lao)(lao)(lao)(lao)漢(han)(han)(han)先吃,老(lao)(lao)(lao)(lao)漢(han)(han)(han)邊吃邊說(shuo):“好(hao)(hao)得(de)(de)很,好(hao)(hao)得(de)(de)很,以(yi)后(hou)(hou)不用(yong)再去(qu)(qu)取(qu)廚(chu)刀(dao)(dao)(dao)切(qie)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)了。”這樣一(yi)(yi)傳十(shi)(shi),十(shi)(shi)傳百,傳遍了晉中(zhong)(zhong)大地。
后來,“鳳陽”出了朱皇帝(朱元璋)統(tong)一了中(zhong)國,建立明朝,這種“砍(kan)面”流傳于社會小攤販,又經過多次(ci)改革,演變為(wei)刀削面。刀削面柔中(zhong)有硬(ying),軟中(zhong)有韌(ren),澆鹵、或炒(chao)或涼拌,均有獨特風味。