在(zai)山西,人們壽誕(dan)生辰,聚友團圓時,常常要吃這(zhe)種面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),以示(shi)長壽和(he)喜(xi)慶。龍須(xu)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)配料精(jing)細,制(zhi)作講究(jiu),其制(zhi)作方法(fa)過(guo)去曾被認為是(shi)絕招,秘而不傳。龍須(xu)拉(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)團被和(he)勻后(hou),抻開(kai)(kai),卷起,再抻開(kai)(kai),再卷起,如(ru)此數(shu)扣之(zhi)后(hou),師傅(fu)們將(jiang)拉(la)好的面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)放(fang)在(zai)撒滿面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉的幾案(an)上(shang)抖(dou)開(kai)(kai),而后(hou)兩(liang)手(shou)像搭毛(mao)線般(ban)(ban)(ban)地將(jiang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)抻開(kai)(kai)并(bing)抖(dou)動著。整個景象(xiang)就如(ru)瀑布嘩嘩瀉(xie)下一般(ban)(ban)(ban),蔚為壯(zhuang)觀。片(pian)刻之(zhi)后(hou)走上(shang)前去,看到(dao)拉(la)好的面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)已(yi)如(ru)絲般(ban)(ban)(ban)纖細,這(zhe)已(yi)是(shi)標準的龍須(xu)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)了(le)。
先用面(mian)水5∶3的(de)比例和好(hao)面(mian),然(ran)后在(zai)上面(mian)抹點香油(you)醒(xing)著,將醒(xing)好(hao)的(de)面(mian)放在(zai)案板(ban)上,揉(rou)勻或搓(cuo)成長條(tiao),雙手提兩端(duan)稍晃,再搓(cuo)成長條(tiao)狀,搟成片形,略醒(xing)后用刀(dao)橫(heng)切成小手指(zhi)粗的(de)長條(tiao),撒勻面(mian)粉(fen)或抹勻香油(you),逐根或幾根并拉(la)(la),拉(la)(la)成細(xi)條(tiao)投入(ru)沸水鍋內(nei),煮(zhu)熟配上鹵即(ji)成。
龍(long)(long)須拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的源(yuan)頭是(shi)始于唐朝的小(xiao)(xiao)拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。《新唐書·王(wang)皇后(hou)(hou)傳》記有(you)(you)“陛下獨不念阿(a)忠(zhong)脫(tuo)紫半臂易斗面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),為(wei)(wei)生(sheng)日(ri)(ri)(ri)(ri)湯餅(bing)耶”。這(zhe)(zhe)(zhe)種(zhong)生(sheng)日(ri)(ri)(ri)(ri)湯餅(bing),已(yi)可(ke)“舉箸食”(劉禹錫《贈(zeng)進士(shi)張盥》),是(shi)和軟面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)團,用(yong)刀(dao)切條(tiao),將(jiang)條(tiao)拉(la)(la)細(xi)、拉(la)(la)長(chang)后(hou)(hou)落(luo)鍋煮熟食用(yong),民(min)間至今保留(liu)此(ci)法,稱之(zhi)為(wei)(wei)小(xiao)(xiao)拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。王(wang)皇后(hou)(hou)為(wei)(wei)李(li)隆基做生(sheng)日(ri)(ri)(ri)(ri)湯餅(bing)的故事(shi),發生(sheng)在(zai)李(li)隆基作潞州別駕(jia)的時(shi)候(hou),可(ke)見(jian)唐代(dai)(dai)至少太(tai)原(yuan)(yuan)、長(chang)治等山(shan)西(xi)地區已(yi)將(jiang)小(xiao)(xiao)拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)作為(wei)(wei)生(sheng)日(ri)(ri)(ri)(ri)長(chang)壽面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)而制作和食用(yong)了(le)。后(hou)(hou)來(lai),這(zhe)(zhe)(zhe)一(yi)拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)技(ji)藝(yi)隨(sui)著太(tai)原(yuan)(yuan)玄中(zhong)寺(si)的凈土宗東(dong)傳日(ri)(ri)(ri)(ri)本,形成(cheng)日(ri)(ri)(ri)(ri)本拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)技(ji)術(shu)的基礎。到(dao)了(le)宋(song)代(dai)(dai),趙光(guang)義鏟平晉(jin)陽西(xi)北(bei)系舟山(shan),意欲拔掉“龍(long)(long)角”。第二(er)年(nian)太(tai)原(yuan)(yuan)百(bai)姓將(jiang)二(er)月初(chu)的中(zhong)和節(jie)改為(wei)(wei)“龍(long)(long)頭節(jie)”,并固定在(zai)二(er)月初(chu)二(er)以作紀念。此(ci)日(ri)(ri)(ri)(ri),百(bai)姓多吃拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),意思是(shi)你拔我(wo)“龍(long)(long)角”,我(wo)挑你“龍(long)(long)筋”、吃你“龍(long)(long)須”,以示憤恨。自此(ci),拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)又被稱為(wei)(wei)龍(long)(long)須面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),黃庭堅曾作詩(shi)“湯餅(bing)一(yi)杯銀絲亂(luan),牽絲如縷玉簪(zan)橫”。元代(dai)(dai)時(shi),馬(ma)可(ke)波羅三訪太(tai)原(yuan)(yuan),將(jiang)這(zhe)(zhe)(zhe)種(zhong)拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)技(ji)術(shu)帶(dai)回意大(da)(da)利,形成(cheng)影(ying)響西(xi)方面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食技(ji)術(shu)和飲食文化的意大(da)(da)利通(tong)心粉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食。小(xiao)(xiao)拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)何時(shi)發展成(cheng)大(da)(da)把拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),暫不可(ke)考,但明人宋(song)詡(xu)《宋(song)氏養生(sheng)部(bu)》記載:“用(yong)少鹽入水(shui)和面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),一(yi)斤為(wei)(wei)率(lv)。既勻,沃香油少許……漸以兩手纏絡于直指(zhi)、將(jiang)指(zhi)、無名指(zhi)之(zhi)間,為(wei)(wei)細(xi)條(tiao),先(xian)作沸湯,隨(sui)拉(la)(la)隨(sui)煮。”可(ke)見(jian)山(shan)西(xi)明代(dai)(dai)時(shi)已(yi)有(you)(you)大(da)(da)拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)制作技(ji)術(shu)。清道(dao)光(guang)年(nian)間,山(shan)西(xi)稷山(shan)縣馬(ma)金(jin)定兄弟,千(qian)里迢(tiao)迢(tiao)去(qu)陜西(xi)岐(qi)山(shan)做掛(gua)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)生(sheng)意,字號“順天成(cheng)”,直到(dao)今天,岐(qi)山(shan)掛(gua)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)還(huan)沿用(yong)這(zhe)(zhe)(zhe)個老字號。這(zhe)(zhe)(zhe)種(zhong)掛(gua)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)起初(chu)就是(shi)將(jiang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)拉(la)(la)好后(hou)(hou),掛(gua)在(zai)線上曬干(gan)銷(xiao)售,是(shi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)作為(wei)(wei)半成(cheng)品銷(xiao)售的典范。
清(qing)(qing)朝(chao)(chao)(chao)末年,拉(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)已成為山、陜面(mian)(mian)(mian)食制(zhi)作的(de)(de)成熟技術(shu)。清(qing)(qing)末薛寶辰著的(de)(de)《素食說(shuo)略(lve)》中(zhong)說(shuo),在山、陜流行一種(zhong)“楨條(tiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)”:“以(yi)水和面(mian)(mian)(mian),入鹽、清(qing)(qing)油揉勻,覆以(yi)濕布,俟(si)其軟和,扯開細煮之(zhi),名為楨條(tiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)。做(zuo)法以(yi)山西太原、平(ping)定州(zhou)、陜西朝(chao)(chao)(chao)邑(yi)、同州(zhou)為最。”這種(zhong)楨條(tiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian),即山西拉(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian),也(ye)稱龍須面(mian)(mian)(mian),在清(qing)(qing)代(dai)還進入宮廷。《清(qing)(qing)稗類鈔(chao)》、《中(zhong)國歷代(dai)御膳(shan)大(da)觀》中(zhong)記,內廷大(da)宴(yan)(yan)之(zhi)一、清(qing)(qing)朝(chao)(chao)(chao)帝(di)王(wang)的(de)(de)壽誕宴(yan)(yan)——萬壽宴(yan)(yan),以(yi)及滿漢全席第(di)一宴(yan)(yan)的(de)(de)蒙古(gu)親藩宴(yan)(yan),都以(yi)龍須面(mian)(mian)(mian)作為御宴(yan)(yan)的(de)(de)重要膳(shan)食。
“千(qian)招易學(xue),一(yi)竅難得”。拉(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)制作技術解(jie)放前(qian)曾被認為是(shi)“絕招”,秘而不(bu)傳。解(jie)放后,逐漸在社會(hui)上得以公開,成為山西面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)案的(de)基本(ben)功,受(shou)到山西飲(yin)食界的(de)重視,并不(bu)斷在實踐探索中細(xi)分為小拉(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(一(yi)根面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian))、大拉(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(6至(zhi)8扣(kou))、龍須拉(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(10扣(kou)以上),空心(xin)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)等。現(xian)在,龍須拉(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)除食用之外(wai),還作為一(yi)種表演藝術,拉(la)(la)(la)(la)至(zhi)14扣(kou)時(shi),共計28924根,相連(lian)長達(da)25公里。全晉(jin)會(hui)館的(de)蒙(meng)眼拉(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),還曾獲得全國(guo)廚藝絕技超(chao)群(qun)獎,多(duo)次(ci)應邀(yao)赴(fu)日(ri)本(ben)、新加坡、臺(tai)灣等國(guo)家和(he)地區表演。2008年(nian)初,全晉(jin)會(hui)館作為傳承(cheng)單位的(de)龍須拉(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),被列入第二批(pi)國(guo)家級(ji)非物質文化遺(yi)產保護(hu)名錄,受(shou)到了國(guo)家的(de)高度重視。龍須拉(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)制作,這一(yi)山西面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食中技術性強(qiang)的(de)特色手工技藝和(he)表演藝術,將在新時(shi)代煥發出傳承(cheng)文脈(mo)、走向和(he)諧(xie)、造福社會(hui)的(de)無比絢(xuan)麗奪目的(de)光(guang)彩。