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太原龍須拉面介紹

在山西，人們壽(shou)誕生辰，聚友團(tuan)圓時，常常要(yao)吃(chi)這種(zhong)面(mian)(mian)(mian)，以示長壽(shou)和(he)喜(xi)慶。龍(long)須(xu)面(mian)(mian)(mian)配料精細，制(zhi)(zhi)作講究，其制(zhi)(zhi)作方法過(guo)去曾被(bei)認(ren)為(wei)是(shi)絕招，秘而(er)不傳。龍(long)須(xu)拉(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)的面(mian)(mian)(mian)團(tuan)被(bei)和(he)勻(yun)后，抻(chen)開(kai)，卷(juan)起，再抻(chen)開(kai)，再卷(juan)起，如此數扣(kou)之(zhi)后，師(shi)傅們將拉(la)好(hao)的面(mian)(mian)(mian)放在撒(sa)滿(man)面(mian)(mian)(mian)粉的幾案上抖開(kai)，而(er)后兩(liang)手(shou)像搭(da)毛線(xian)般(ban)(ban)地將面(mian)(mian)(mian)抻(chen)開(kai)并抖動著。整(zheng)個景象就(jiu)如瀑布嘩嘩瀉下(xia)一般(ban)(ban)，蔚為(wei)壯觀。片(pian)刻之(zhi)后走上前去，看到(dao)拉(la)好(hao)的面(mian)(mian)(mian)已(yi)(yi)如絲般(ban)(ban)纖(xian)細，這已(yi)(yi)是(shi)標準的龍(long)須(xu)面(mian)(mian)(mian)了。

龍須拉面做法

先用面(mian)水5∶3的比例和好面(mian)，然后在(zai)(zai)上面(mian)抹點(dian)香油醒(xing)著，將醒(xing)好的面(mian)放在(zai)(zai)案板上，揉勻(yun)或(huo)搓(cuo)成(cheng)長(chang)(chang)條(tiao)，雙手提(ti)兩端稍晃，再搓(cuo)成(cheng)長(chang)(chang)條(tiao)狀，搟成(cheng)片形，略醒(xing)后用刀橫(heng)切(qie)成(cheng)小手指粗的長(chang)(chang)條(tiao)，撒勻(yun)面(mian)粉或(huo)抹勻(yun)香油，逐根(gen)或(huo)幾(ji)根(gen)并(bing)拉(la)，拉(la)成(cheng)細條(tiao)投(tou)入沸水鍋內，煮(zhu)熟配上鹵即(ji)成(cheng)。

龍須拉面的起源故事

龍(long)(long)須拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)源頭是(shi)始于唐(tang)(tang)(tang)朝(chao)的(de)小(xiao)拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。《新唐(tang)(tang)(tang)書·王皇后傳》記有“陛下獨不(bu)念(nian)阿忠(zhong)脫紫半臂(bei)易斗面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，為(wei)(wei)生(sheng)(sheng)日(ri)湯餅耶”。這(zhe)種生(sheng)(sheng)日(ri)湯餅，已(yi)可(ke)“舉箸(zhu)食(shi)(shi)”（劉禹(yu)錫《贈(zeng)進(jin)士張盥》），是(shi)和(he)軟(ruan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)團，用刀切條，將(jiang)條拉(la)(la)(la)細、拉(la)(la)(la)長后落(luo)鍋煮(zhu)熟食(shi)(shi)用，民間至今(jin)保留(liu)此(ci)法，稱(cheng)(cheng)之為(wei)(wei)小(xiao)拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。王皇后為(wei)(wei)李隆基做生(sheng)(sheng)日(ri)湯餅的(de)故(gu)事(shi)，發(fa)生(sheng)(sheng)在(zai)李隆基作(zuo)潞(lu)州別駕的(de)時候，可(ke)見(jian)唐(tang)(tang)(tang)代(dai)至少(shao)太(tai)(tai)原(yuan)、長治(zhi)等山(shan)西(xi)(xi)地區(qu)已(yi)將(jiang)小(xiao)拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)作(zuo)為(wei)(wei)生(sheng)(sheng)日(ri)長壽面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)而制作(zuo)和(he)食(shi)(shi)用了。后來，這(zhe)一(yi)拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)技藝隨(sui)著(zhu)太(tai)(tai)原(yuan)玄中寺(si)的(de)凈土宗東傳日(ri)本(ben)，形(xing)成(cheng)日(ri)本(ben)拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)技術(shu)(shu)的(de)基礎。到(dao)了宋代(dai)，趙(zhao)光義鏟平晉(jin)陽西(xi)(xi)北系(xi)舟山(shan)，意(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)欲拔(ba)掉“龍(long)(long)角”。第二(er)年(nian)太(tai)(tai)原(yuan)百姓將(jiang)二(er)月初的(de)中和(he)節(jie)改為(wei)(wei)“龍(long)(long)頭節(jie)”，并固(gu)定(ding)在(zai)二(er)月初二(er)以(yi)作(zuo)紀念(nian)。此(ci)日(ri)，百姓多(duo)吃拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，意(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)思(si)是(shi)你拔(ba)我“龍(long)(long)角”，我挑你“龍(long)(long)筋”、吃你“龍(long)(long)須”，以(yi)示(shi)憤恨。自此(ci)，拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)又被稱(cheng)(cheng)為(wei)(wei)龍(long)(long)須面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，黃庭(ting)堅(jian)曾作(zuo)詩“湯餅一(yi)杯銀絲亂，牽絲如縷玉簪橫”。元代(dai)時，馬可(ke)波羅三(san)訪太(tai)(tai)原(yuan)，將(jiang)這(zhe)種拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)技術(shu)(shu)帶回意(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)大(da)利(li)，形(xing)成(cheng)影響(xiang)西(xi)(xi)方(fang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)(shi)技術(shu)(shu)和(he)飲食(shi)(shi)文化的(de)意(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)大(da)利(li)通心粉(fen)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)(shi)。小(xiao)拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)何時發(fa)展成(cheng)大(da)把拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，暫不(bu)可(ke)考，但明人宋詡《宋氏養(yang)生(sheng)(sheng)部》記載：“用少(shao)鹽入(ru)水(shui)和(he)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，一(yi)斤為(wei)(wei)率。既勻，沃(wo)香(xiang)油少(shao)許……漸以(yi)兩手(shou)纏絡于直指、將(jiang)指、無名指之間，為(wei)(wei)細條，先作(zuo)沸湯，隨(sui)拉(la)(la)(la)隨(sui)煮(zhu)。”可(ke)見(jian)山(shan)西(xi)(xi)明代(dai)時已(yi)有大(da)拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)制作(zuo)技術(shu)(shu)。清道光年(nian)間，山(shan)西(xi)(xi)稷山(shan)縣(xian)馬金定(ding)兄弟，千(qian)里迢迢去陜西(xi)(xi)岐山(shan)做掛面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)生(sheng)(sheng)意(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)，字(zi)(zi)號“順天(tian)成(cheng)”，直到(dao)今(jin)天(tian)，岐山(shan)掛面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)還沿用這(zhe)個(ge)老(lao)字(zi)(zi)號。這(zhe)種掛面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)起(qi)初就是(shi)將(jiang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)拉(la)(la)(la)好后，掛在(zai)線(xian)上曬(shai)干銷售，是(shi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)作(zuo)為(wei)(wei)半成(cheng)品銷售的(de)典范。

清(qing)朝(chao)(chao)末年，拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)已成為(wei)山(shan)、陜面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食制(zhi)作(zuo)的成熟技術。清(qing)末薛寶辰著的《素食說略》中(zhong)說，在(zai)(zai)山(shan)、陜流行一(yi)種(zhong)“楨(zhen)(zhen)條面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”：“以(yi)水(shui)和面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，入鹽、清(qing)油(you)揉(rou)勻，覆(fu)以(yi)濕布(bu)，俟其(qi)軟和，扯開細煮(zhu)之，名為(wei)楨(zhen)(zhen)條面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。做(zuo)法以(yi)山(shan)西太原、平定(ding)州(zhou)、陜西朝(chao)(chao)邑、同州(zhou)為(wei)最。”這種(zhong)楨(zhen)(zhen)條面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，即山(shan)西拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，也稱龍(long)須面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，在(zai)(zai)清(qing)代還進(jin)入宮廷。《清(qing)稗(bai)類鈔》、《中(zhong)國歷(li)代御膳大觀》中(zhong)記(ji)，內廷大宴之一(yi)、清(qing)朝(chao)(chao)帝王的壽誕(dan)宴——萬壽宴，以(yi)及(ji)滿(man)漢(han)全席(xi)第一(yi)宴的蒙古親藩宴，都以(yi)龍(long)須面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)作(zuo)為(wei)御宴的重要膳食。

“千招易學(xue)，一(yi)竅難得”。拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)制(zhi)作(zuo)技術解(jie)放前曾(ceng)被(bei)認為(wei)是(shi)“絕招”，秘(mi)而不傳。解(jie)放后，逐漸(jian)在(zai)社(she)會(hui)上得以公(gong)開，成為(wei)山西面(mian)(mian)案的(de)(de)基本(ben)功，受(shou)到山西飲食界的(de)(de)重視，并不斷在(zai)實(shi)踐探索中(zhong)細分為(wei)小拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)（一(yi)根面(mian)(mian)）、大拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)（6至8扣(kou)）、龍(long)(long)須(xu)拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)（10扣(kou)以上），空(kong)心拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)等。現在(zai)，龍(long)(long)須(xu)拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)除(chu)食用之外，還(huan)(huan)作(zuo)為(wei)一(yi)種表(biao)演(yan)藝術，拉(la)(la)至14扣(kou)時，共(gong)計28924根，相(xiang)連長達25公(gong)里(li)。全(quan)晉(jin)會(hui)館的(de)(de)蒙眼拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)，還(huan)(huan)曾(ceng)獲得全(quan)國(guo)(guo)廚藝絕技超群獎，多次應邀(yao)赴(fu)日本(ben)、新加坡(po)、臺灣(wan)等國(guo)(guo)家(jia)(jia)和(he)地區(qu)表(biao)演(yan)。2008年初，全(quan)晉(jin)會(hui)館作(zuo)為(wei)傳承(cheng)單(dan)位的(de)(de)龍(long)(long)須(xu)拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)，被(bei)列入第二批國(guo)(guo)家(jia)(jia)級非物質文化遺產保護名錄，受(shou)到了國(guo)(guo)家(jia)(jia)的(de)(de)高(gao)度重視。龍(long)(long)須(xu)拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)制(zhi)作(zuo)，這一(yi)山西面(mian)(mian)食中(zhong)技術性強的(de)(de)特色手工(gong)技藝和(he)表(biao)演(yan)藝術，將在(zai)新時代煥(huan)發出傳承(cheng)文脈、走向和(he)諧、造福社(she)會(hui)的(de)(de)無比絢麗奪目的(de)(de)光彩。