粽(zong)子(zi)是(shi)中(zhong)(zhong)國(guo)歷(li)史上(shang)文化(hua)(hua)積淀最深(shen)厚的(de)節日(ri)食品(pin)之(zhi)一。一萬(wan)多(duo)年前,人類用(yong)植(zhi)物葉子(zi)包裹食物原料(liao)通過“石(shi)烹法”煨(wei)煮成(cheng)熟,這(zhe)就是(shi)粽(zong)子(zi)的(de)雛形(xing)。到(dao)了夏(xia)商周時,人們用(yong)植(zhi)物葉子(zi)包裹黍(shu)米成(cheng)牛(niu)角狀替代黃(huang)牛(niu)作(zuo)為祭品(pin),最早的(de)粽(zong)子(zi)——“角黍(shu)”應(ying)運而生(sheng)。經過漫長的(de)歷(li)史演變,粽(zong)子(zi)的(de)品(pin)種(zhong)逐漸豐富(fu),制(zhi)作(zuo)技藝也日(ri)益成(cheng)熟,成(cheng)為江南(nan)民眾日(ri)常(chang)生(sheng)活中(zhong)(zhong)不(bu)可分割(ge)的(de)一部分,造就了中(zhong)(zhong)國(guo)傳統點心文化(hua)(hua)中(zhong)(zhong)的(de)一朵(duo)奇葩。
民國初年(nian),浙江(jiang)商人張(zhang)錦(jin)泉在嘉興北(bei)大(da)街(jie)孩兒橋堍(tu)設攤(tan)賣粽子(zi)(zi),因粽子(zi)(zi)外形(xing)和(he)口味獨特而(er)深(shen)受(shou)歡迎。1921年(nian),張(zhang)錦(jin)泉在城區張(zhang)家弄口開了首家“五芳(fang)齋”粽子(zi)(zi)店,并憑(ping)借著精湛(zhan)的制作技(ji)藝逐漸馳名江(jiang)南,被譽為(wei)“粽子(zi)(zi)大(da)王”。在經歷了艱難的戰爭(zheng)年(nian)代和(he)文化大(da)革(ge)命時(shi)期之后(hou),改革(ge)開放使(shi)五芳(fang)齋粽子(zi)(zi)產業得(de)到了迅速發展。
五芳齋在粽(zong)子的(de)包裹(guo)扎(zha)(zha)線工(gong)藝上仍然(ran)保留(liu)傳統手工(gong)技(ji)藝,按照(zhao)初步造(zao)型、加部分(fen)料米(mi)、加餡、加料米(mi)、稱(cheng)量、定型、裹(guo)扎(zha)(zha)的(de)程序進行裹(guo)粽(zong)操作(zuo),要求料米(mi)分(fen)兩次投放,投放量正確,內(nei)餡投放位置取中間,造(zao)型規范,四角端正,兩端大(da)小均(jun)勻(yun),扎(zha)(zha)線按標準裹(guo)繞,松緊適當,成形的(de)粽(zong)子無破損。
具體做法為:選用(yong)香糯米(mi)(mi),用(yong)溫水(shui)(shui)浸泡糯米(mi)(mi)2、3個小(xiao)時(期(qi)間(jian)撓1至2次,以(yi)便米(mi)(mi)更好(hao)浸透),用(yong)個小(xiao)簸(bo)箕或(huo)過濾籃濾干水(shui)(shui)分。 取瘦豬后(hou)(hou)(hou)腿(tui)肉(rou)(rou)(rou)把(ba)肉(rou)(rou)(rou)切成塊狀,接下來放(fang)(fang)入調料(liao)并拌(ban)勻待用(yong)。 把(ba)粽(zong)子葉放(fang)(fang)水(shui)(shui)里煮(zhu),水(shui)(shui)開(kai)10分鐘(zhong)后(hou)(hou)(hou)即(ji)可取出冷水(shui)(shui)洗凈剪兩端多余后(hou)(hou)(hou)濾干。 把(ba)棉線剪若干條,每(mei)條長約20cm。腿(tui)上(膝蓋(gai)處)放(fang)(fang)一(yi)(yi)條毛巾以(yi)備弄濕衣(yi)物。 取兩張(均為反(fan)面)粽(zong)葉一(yi)(yi)頭一(yi)(yi)尾的反(fan)方向(xiang)(xiang)重(zhong)疊(不(bu)完全(quan)),放(fang)(fang)入料(liao)米(mi)(mi),用(yong)食(shi)指在米(mi)(mi)中間(jian)輕(qing)輕(qing)劃一(yi)(yi)字,放(fang)(fang)入肉(rou)(rou)(rou)塊,再填米(mi)(mi)蓋(gai)住肉(rou)(rou)(rou)塊。右(you)手先把(ba)外(wai)端粽(zong)葉往里折(zhe)疊并向(xiang)(xiang)后(hou)(hou)(hou)折(zhe)去,包好(hao)一(yi)(yi)端再以(yi)同樣手法完成另一(yi)(yi)端,綁(bang)粽(zong)子要(yao)先在中間(jian)綁(bang)一(yi)(yi)次后(hou)(hou)(hou)才從一(yi)(yi)端逐一(yi)(yi)綁(bang)向(xiang)(xiang)一(yi)(yi)端以(yi)防變形,繩子緊(jin)度不(bu)能過緊(jin)(煮(zhu)爆)或(huo)過松(進水(shui)(shui)),以(yi)輕(qing)扯不(bu)移動(dong)即(ji)可。 綁(bang)好(hao)后(hou)(hou)(hou)逐一(yi)(yi)放(fang)(fang)到鍋(guo)里,然后(hou)(hou)(hou)放(fang)(fang)入冷水(shui)(shui)滿過粽(zong)子1cm左右(you),點(dian)火(huo)……水(shui)(shui)開(kai)15分鐘(zhong)后(hou)(hou)(hou)把(ba)鍋(guo)里上下粽(zong)子兌換位(wei)置,再以(yi)慢火(huo)煮(zhu)上1小(xiao)時即(ji)可。
傳統(tong)五芳齋粽子使用(yong)(yong)鐵鍋、木制塘鍋、竹籃等器具,在(zai)土灶上燒粽子用(yong)(yong)桑柴燒煮。
據五(wu)芳齋老(lao)員工(gong)(gong)姚九華回(hui)憶,五(wu)芳齋解放后工(gong)(gong)場、操用(yong)(yong)(yong)情況(kuang)主要有(you):工(gong)(gong)人(ren)(ren)工(gong)(gong)作衣(yi)配圍身、印“五(wu)芳齋”字樣(yang)。當時(shi)(shi)店內(nei)無自來(lai)(lai)水(shui),用(yong)(yong)(yong)水(shui)都(dou)由工(gong)(gong)人(ren)(ren)從(cong)市(shi)河里挑(tiao)來(lai)(lai),有(you)時(shi)(shi)用(yong)(yong)(yong)船從(cong)薦橋(qiao)河里到澤橋(qiao)河(人(ren)(ren)民(min)公園(yuan)處)駁(bo)進(jin)來(lai)(lai)。挑(tiao)來(lai)(lai)的(de)水(shui)存入(ru)大(da)缸,用(yong)(yong)(yong)明礬沉(chen)淀待用(yong)(yong)(yong)。曾經常見工(gong)(gong)人(ren)(ren)在雨天身穿蓑衣(yi),箬帽(mao)穿梭(suo)市(shi)井挑(tiao)水(shui)的(de)情景。燒粽(zong)(zong)子(zi)(zi)用(yong)(yong)(yong)桑柴,從(cong)東門柴行買后人(ren)(ren)工(gong)(gong)挑(tiao)回(hui)店內(nei),有(you)時(shi)(shi)直接向農民(min)買。裝粽(zong)(zong)子(zi)(zi)用(yong)(yong)(yong)草(cao)篰(生、熟都(dou)用(yong)(yong)(yong)草(cao)部運來(lai)(lai)),送分(fen)店、車站都(dou)人(ren)(ren)工(gong)(gong)用(yong)(yong)(yong)此篰挑(tiao)。堂吃粽(zong)(zong)子(zi)(zi)配以磁盤(小碟子(zi)(zi)),顧客上門配送噴香水(shui)毛巾、送茶。豆沙粽(zong)(zong)配細棉白糖。拌米、拌肉(rou)工(gong)(gong)具:用(yong)(yong)(yong)大(da)餅店和面粉(fen)的(de)和面瓷缸人(ren)(ren)工(gong)(gong)拌。燒粽(zong)(zong)用(yong)(yong)(yong)木制塘鍋。店內(nei)樓(lou)上放粽(zong)(zong)箬等雜物,郭士榮(rong)曾住樓(lou)上。工(gong)(gong)人(ren)(ren)都(dou)回(hui)家住。
五(wu)芳齋(zhai)對(dui)工藝(yi)要求嚴格。把握選料、操(cao)作(zuo)、管理每一(yi)道(dao)程序的(de)(de)細(xi)微末(mo)節,從(cong)而使每一(yi)個產品都達(da)到了(le)設(she)計指標(biao)的(de)(de)規范標(biao)準:糯米粒飽(bao)糯強(qiang);豬(zhu)后腿肉(rou)(rou)純精(jing)、全肥;雞肉(rou)(rou)粽只(zhi)用(yong)雄雞;夾沙粽用(yong)“大紅袍(pao)”去皮取(qu)沙;板(ban)油(you)肥厚(hou)去油(you)皮;特曬(shai)醬油(you)拌(ban)米;細(xi)白鹽、上(shang)等白酒拌(ban)肉(rou)(rou);選用(yong)天然野(ye)生箬葉(xie)(xie)包裹粽子,箬葉(xie)(xie)甜甘性涼,有舒郁、漿濁、升滑、開膈(ge)、消痰(tan)等功(gong)效(xiao)。故而造就保持了(le)五(wu)芳齋(zhai)粽子的(de)(de)上(shang)乘品質。
五芳齋(zhai)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)子博采中國各地粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)子文化之(zhi)長,集蘇(su)州豬油細沙(sha)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、廣州蛋(dan)黃粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、蘭溪火腿肉(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)和(he)嘉(jia)興(xing)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)諸美之(zhi)長,不斷研究(jiu)開(kai)發,花(hua)(hua)色從最(zui)初(chu)的豬肉(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、夾(jia)沙(sha)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)等(deng)(deng)歷史(shi)傳統的數種,開(kai)始逐漸(jian)增多。有蓮蓉原味(wei)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、紅(hong)袍(pao)豆(dou)沙(sha)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、綠茶棗(zao)香粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、紅(hong)燒排骨粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、經(jing)典鮮(xian)肉(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、鮑汁牛(niu)柳粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、干(gan)貝鮮(xian)肉(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、甜豆(dou)棗(zao)泥(ni)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、五花(hua)(hua)風肉(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、沙(sha)茶排骨粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、紅(hong)燒牛(niu)肉(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、兒(er)童營養(yang)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、飄香堿水粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、彩豆(dou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、綠豆(dou)花(hua)(hua)生蓮子粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、桂花(hua)(hua)豆(dou)沙(sha)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、桂花(hua)(hua)血糯(nuo)栗(li)子粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、干(gan)菜粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、五花(hua)(hua)肉(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、宴(yan)席珍品(pin)(pin)鮮(xian)肉(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、宴(yan)席珍品(pin)(pin)干(gan)貝粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、五花(hua)(hua)風肉(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)等(deng)(deng)近百個品(pin)(pin)種。
有(you)南味粽,花色多、分甜咸味;北味粽,純米或加(jia)小棗、紅豆,甜口或蘸糖吃;西北粽,純米,澆蜂蜜(mi)涼(liang)吃。
有(you)①純米粽;②包餡粽,餡料有(you)豆(dou)沙、棗(zao)泥、芝麻芽(ya)、蓮蓉、椰蓉等(deng)(deng);③夾果粽,果料有(you)棗(zao)、栗、柿、銀杏、花生、蓮子、桂圓等(deng)(deng);④豆(dou)粽,有(you)紅豆(dou)、綠豆(dou)、蠶豆(dou)、豌豆(dou)、蕓豆(dou)、豇豆(dou)、黃豆(dou)等(deng)(deng);⑤葷料粽,有(you)豬(zhu)肉(rou)(rou)、豬(zhu)油(you)、火腿、臘(la)肉(rou)(rou)、叉燒肉(rou)(rou)、香腸、牛肉(rou)(rou)、雞肉(rou)(rou)、鴨肉(rou)(rou)、鵝肉(rou)(rou)、鮮蛋、咸(xian)蛋、蝦(xia)米、干貝、淡菜等(deng)(deng)等(deng)(deng)。
五芳齋(zhai)粽子制作技(ji)藝具有極高的(de)實(shi)用價值、文化價值和(he)經濟(ji)價值,其核心在于將老(lao)字(zi)號品牌文化和(he)傳統技(ji)藝進行了完美結合,散(san)發出獨特的(de)魅力。
為了宣傳粽(zong)(zong)子文(wen)化(hua),展(zhan)示五(wu)芳齋裹粽(zong)(zong)技(ji)藝,五(wu)芳齋集(ji)團十分重視五(wu)芳齋品牌及其文(wen)化(hua)保護建設,從集(ji)團決策(ce)層到一線經營部門(men),建立(li)了專(zhuan)門(men)機構開展(zhan)工(gong)作,發掘、歸納、研究(jiu)、總結、豐(feng)富(fu)、弘揚中華民族(zu)的粽(zong)(zong)子文(wen)化(hua)。
在傳(chuan)(chuan)承與發展中,五芳齋人對(dui)傳(chuan)(chuan)統制粽技藝在選料(liao)、配料(liao)、調味、包(bao)扎、蒸煮(zhu)等多道(dao)工(gong)序(xu)上十分講究,精益求精。保障五芳齋品(pin)牌得到有(you)效的維護和傳(chuan)(chuan)播。
集團特別選拔組(zu)建(jian)了第一支粽藝(yi)師(shi)隊伍。首批參加培訓(xun)的9名粽藝(yi)師(shi)人選,除了2名是專(zhuan)職的之外(wai),其(qi)余7名全是從裹粽車(che)間選出來的比較優秀的人選。
五(wu)芳齋對粽(zong)(zong)藝(yi)師(shi)進行企業(ye)(ye)概(gai)況、粽(zong)(zong)子(zi)(zi)文化(hua)、粽(zong)(zong)子(zi)(zi)常識、媒(mei)體應訪、裹粽(zong)(zong)工藝(yi)、形(xing)體表(biao)演、解(jie)說訓(xun)練方面的培訓(xun)。粽(zong)(zong)藝(yi)師(shi)在(zai)產業(ye)(ye)園工業(ye)(ye)旅游區、賣場(chang)(chang)促(cu)銷場(chang)(chang)所、展銷會、各類(lei)民俗(su)文化(hua)活動等場(chang)(chang)所從事(shi)粽(zong)(zong)藝(yi)表(biao)演和粽(zong)(zong)藝(yi)講解(jie),宣(xuan)傳五(wu)芳齋粽(zong)(zong)子(zi)(zi)的傳統文化(hua),傳達中(zhong)國粽(zong)(zong)子(zi)(zi)的悠長歷史(shi),以專業(ye)(ye)的形(xing)象面向社會。
五(wu)芳齋(zhai)裹(guo)粽技藝表演隊(dui)在穗、滬、寧、甬(yong)、京等市的(de)多(duo)場“絕活”出(chu)色表演,既展示(shi)了(le)粽子(zi)文化(hua)的(de)迷人魅力,同時也樹立(li)了(le)五(wu)芳齋(zhai)人的(de)時代藝術形象,體現了(le)濃郁(yu)的(de)中國(guo)粽子(zi)制作和傳統飲食文化(hua)。
五芳(fang)齋一直為媒體所關注,近百家著(zhu)名報刊、電視臺網(wang)絡等媒體的(de)大力傳播更(geng)凸現了五芳(fang)齋精(jing)神文化,由五芳(fang)齋發起并承辦(ban)的(de)首(shou)屆中(zhong)(zhong)國粽子文化節不僅展示了五芳(fang)齋的(de)特殊魅力,還推動了整個中(zhong)(zhong)國粽子產業(ye)的(de)發展以及粽子在中(zhong)(zhong)國食品業(ye)中(zhong)(zhong)的(de)影響(xiang)力。這一切(qie)使人們更(geng)加(jia)深化了對(dui)中(zhong)(zhong)華民族粽子這一中(zhong)(zhong)國歷史上文化積淀最深厚的(de)傳統食品的(de)理解。