粽(zong)(zong)子(zi)是中(zhong)國歷史(shi)上(shang)文化積淀最(zui)深(shen)厚的(de)節日食(shi)品(pin)之一(yi)(yi)。一(yi)(yi)萬多(duo)年前,人(ren)(ren)類用植(zhi)(zhi)物葉(xie)子(zi)包(bao)裹食(shi)物原(yuan)料通過(guo)“石烹法”煨煮成(cheng)(cheng)熟,這就(jiu)是粽(zong)(zong)子(zi)的(de)雛形。到了夏商周時,人(ren)(ren)們用植(zhi)(zhi)物葉(xie)子(zi)包(bao)裹黍米成(cheng)(cheng)牛(niu)角(jiao)狀替代黃牛(niu)作為祭品(pin),最(zui)早的(de)粽(zong)(zong)子(zi)——“角(jiao)黍”應運而生(sheng)。經過(guo)漫長的(de)歷史(shi)演變(bian),粽(zong)(zong)子(zi)的(de)品(pin)種逐(zhu)漸豐富(fu),制作技藝也日益成(cheng)(cheng)熟,成(cheng)(cheng)為江南民(min)眾日常生(sheng)活中(zhong)不可分割的(de)一(yi)(yi)部分,造(zao)就(jiu)了中(zhong)國傳統點心文化中(zhong)的(de)一(yi)(yi)朵(duo)奇葩。
民國(guo)初年(nian),浙江(jiang)商(shang)人張(zhang)錦泉(quan)在嘉興北(bei)大街孩兒橋堍(tu)設攤賣粽(zong)子(zi),因粽(zong)子(zi)外形(xing)和(he)口味獨特而深受(shou)歡迎。1921年(nian),張(zhang)錦泉(quan)在城區(qu)張(zhang)家弄口開了首家“五芳(fang)齋(zhai)(zhai)”粽(zong)子(zi)店,并憑借著(zhu)精湛的制作技(ji)藝逐漸馳名江(jiang)南,被譽為“粽(zong)子(zi)大王”。在經歷了艱(jian)難的戰(zhan)爭年(nian)代和(he)文化(hua)大革命時期之后,改革開放使(shi)五芳(fang)齋(zhai)(zhai)粽(zong)子(zi)產(chan)業得到了迅速發展。
五芳齋在粽(zong)子的包裹(guo)扎(zha)線工藝上仍(reng)然保留傳統(tong)手工技(ji)藝,按(an)照初步造(zao)型、加(jia)部分料米、加(jia)餡、加(jia)料米、稱量(liang)、定型、裹(guo)扎(zha)的程序進行(xing)裹(guo)粽(zong)操作,要求料米分兩次投放,投放量(liang)正(zheng)確,內(nei)餡投放位置取中間,造(zao)型規范,四角端正(zheng),兩端大小均勻,扎(zha)線按(an)標準裹(guo)繞,松緊適當,成形的粽(zong)子無破損(sun)。
具體做法(fa)為:選用(yong)香糯米(mi)(mi),用(yong)溫水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)浸泡糯米(mi)(mi)2、3個小時(期間(jian)撓(nao)1至(zhi)2次,以(yi)(yi)便米(mi)(mi)更好浸透),用(yong)個小簸箕或(huo)過(guo)濾(lv)籃濾(lv)干水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)分(fen)(fen)。 取瘦豬后(hou)腿(tui)肉(rou)(rou)(rou)把(ba)(ba)肉(rou)(rou)(rou)切(qie)成塊狀,接下來放入(ru)調料并拌(ban)勻(yun)待用(yong)。 把(ba)(ba)粽子(zi)(zi)葉放水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)里(li)煮,水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)開10分(fen)(fen)鐘(zhong)后(hou)即(ji)可取出(chu)冷水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)洗(xi)凈剪兩(liang)端多余后(hou)濾(lv)干。 把(ba)(ba)棉(mian)線剪若干條(tiao)(tiao)(tiao),每條(tiao)(tiao)(tiao)長約(yue)20cm。腿(tui)上(膝蓋處)放一(yi)(yi)(yi)條(tiao)(tiao)(tiao)毛(mao)巾以(yi)(yi)備弄濕(shi)衣(yi)物。 取兩(liang)張(均為反(fan)面(mian))粽葉一(yi)(yi)(yi)頭一(yi)(yi)(yi)尾(wei)的反(fan)方(fang)向(xiang)重疊(die)(不(bu)完全),放入(ru)料米(mi)(mi),用(yong)食指在米(mi)(mi)中(zhong)間(jian)輕輕劃一(yi)(yi)(yi)字,放入(ru)肉(rou)(rou)(rou)塊,再(zai)(zai)填米(mi)(mi)蓋住肉(rou)(rou)(rou)塊。右手先把(ba)(ba)外端粽葉往(wang)里(li)折疊(die)并向(xiang)后(hou)折去(qu),包好一(yi)(yi)(yi)端再(zai)(zai)以(yi)(yi)同樣(yang)手法(fa)完成另一(yi)(yi)(yi)端,綁粽子(zi)(zi)要先在中(zhong)間(jian)綁一(yi)(yi)(yi)次后(hou)才從一(yi)(yi)(yi)端逐一(yi)(yi)(yi)綁向(xiang)一(yi)(yi)(yi)端以(yi)(yi)防變形,繩(sheng)子(zi)(zi)緊(jin)度不(bu)能過(guo)緊(jin)(煮爆)或(huo)過(guo)松(進水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)),以(yi)(yi)輕扯不(bu)移動即(ji)可。 綁好后(hou)逐一(yi)(yi)(yi)放到鍋里(li),然后(hou)放入(ru)冷水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)滿過(guo)粽子(zi)(zi)1cm左右,點火(huo)……水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)開15分(fen)(fen)鐘(zhong)后(hou)把(ba)(ba)鍋里(li)上下粽子(zi)(zi)兌(dui)換(huan)位置(zhi),再(zai)(zai)以(yi)(yi)慢(man)火(huo)煮上1小時即(ji)可。
傳統五芳(fang)齋粽(zong)子(zi)使用鐵(tie)鍋、木制塘鍋、竹籃等器具,在土灶上燒粽(zong)子(zi)用桑柴(chai)燒煮。
據五芳(fang)(fang)齋老員工(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)姚九(jiu)華回憶,五芳(fang)(fang)齋解放后工(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)場、操用(yong)(yong)情況主要(yao)有:工(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)人(ren)工(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)作衣配(pei)(pei)圍身、印“五芳(fang)(fang)齋”字樣。當時店(dian)(dian)內(nei)無自來水,用(yong)(yong)水都(dou)由工(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)人(ren)從市河(he)里(li)挑(tiao)(tiao)來,有時用(yong)(yong)船從薦橋河(he)里(li)到澤橋河(he)(人(ren)民公(gong)園處)駁進來。挑(tiao)(tiao)來的水存入大缸,用(yong)(yong)明礬(fan)沉淀待用(yong)(yong)。曾經(jing)常見(jian)工(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)人(ren)在雨天身穿(chuan)蓑衣,箬(ruo)帽穿(chuan)梭市井挑(tiao)(tiao)水的情景。燒粽(zong)(zong)(zong)子用(yong)(yong)桑柴,從東門柴行買后人(ren)工(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)挑(tiao)(tiao)回店(dian)(dian)內(nei),有時直接向農民買。裝粽(zong)(zong)(zong)子用(yong)(yong)草篰(生(sheng)、熟都(dou)用(yong)(yong)草部(bu)運來),送(song)分店(dian)(dian)、車站都(dou)人(ren)工(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)用(yong)(yong)此篰挑(tiao)(tiao)。堂吃粽(zong)(zong)(zong)子配(pei)(pei)以磁盤(小碟子),顧客上(shang)(shang)門配(pei)(pei)送(song)噴香水毛巾、送(song)茶。豆沙(sha)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)配(pei)(pei)細棉白(bai)糖。拌米、拌肉工(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)具(ju):用(yong)(yong)大餅店(dian)(dian)和面粉的和面瓷缸人(ren)工(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)拌。燒粽(zong)(zong)(zong)用(yong)(yong)木制塘鍋。店(dian)(dian)內(nei)樓(lou)上(shang)(shang)放粽(zong)(zong)(zong)箬(ruo)等雜物,郭士榮曾住樓(lou)上(shang)(shang)。工(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)人(ren)都(dou)回家(jia)住。
五(wu)芳齋(zhai)對(dui)工藝要求嚴格。把握選料(liao)、操作(zuo)、管理每一道程序的細微(wei)末節,從而(er)使每一個(ge)產品都達(da)到(dao)了(le)設(she)計(ji)指標的規范標準:糯米粒飽糯強;豬后腿(tui)肉純精(jing)、全(quan)肥(fei);雞肉粽(zong)(zong)只用(yong)雄(xiong)雞;夾沙粽(zong)(zong)用(yong)“大紅袍”去(qu)皮取沙;板油(you)肥(fei)厚去(qu)油(you)皮;特曬醬油(you)拌米;細白(bai)鹽(yan)、上(shang)(shang)等白(bai)酒拌肉;選用(yong)天然野生箬(ruo)葉包裹(guo)粽(zong)(zong)子(zi),箬(ruo)葉甜甘性(xing)涼(liang),有舒郁、漿(jiang)濁、升滑、開膈、消痰等功效。故而(er)造就保持(chi)了(le)五(wu)芳齋(zhai)粽(zong)(zong)子(zi)的上(shang)(shang)乘品質。
五(wu)芳齋粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)子博采中國各地粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)子文化之(zhi)長,集蘇州豬油細(xi)沙(sha)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、廣(guang)州蛋黃(huang)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、蘭溪火(huo)腿(tui)肉(rou)(rou)(rou)(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)和嘉興(xing)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)諸美(mei)之(zhi)長,不斷研(yan)究開(kai)發,花(hua)(hua)色從(cong)最初(chu)的豬肉(rou)(rou)(rou)(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、夾沙(sha)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)等歷(li)史(shi)傳統(tong)的數(shu)種,開(kai)始(shi)逐漸增多。有蓮蓉(rong)原味粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、紅袍豆(dou)沙(sha)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、綠茶棗香(xiang)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、紅燒排骨粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、經(jing)典(dian)鮮(xian)肉(rou)(rou)(rou)(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、鮑汁牛柳(liu)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、干貝鮮(xian)肉(rou)(rou)(rou)(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、甜豆(dou)棗泥粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、五(wu)花(hua)(hua)風肉(rou)(rou)(rou)(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、沙(sha)茶排骨粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、紅燒牛肉(rou)(rou)(rou)(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、兒童營養粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、飄香(xiang)堿水粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、彩豆(dou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、綠豆(dou)花(hua)(hua)生蓮子粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、桂(gui)(gui)花(hua)(hua)豆(dou)沙(sha)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、桂(gui)(gui)花(hua)(hua)血糯栗子粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、干菜粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、五(wu)花(hua)(hua)肉(rou)(rou)(rou)(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、宴席(xi)珍(zhen)品鮮(xian)肉(rou)(rou)(rou)(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、宴席(xi)珍(zhen)品干貝粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、五(wu)花(hua)(hua)風肉(rou)(rou)(rou)(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)等近(jin)百個品種。
有(you)南味(wei)粽,花色多、分甜(tian)咸(xian)味(wei);北味(wei)粽,純米或(huo)加小棗、紅豆(dou),甜(tian)口或(huo)蘸糖吃;西北粽,純米,澆蜂蜜涼(liang)吃。
有(you)①純米粽(zong)(zong);②包餡粽(zong)(zong),餡料(liao)(liao)有(you)豆(dou)沙(sha)、棗(zao)泥、芝麻芽(ya)、蓮(lian)蓉、椰蓉等(deng);③夾果(guo)粽(zong)(zong),果(guo)料(liao)(liao)有(you)棗(zao)、栗、柿、銀杏、花(hua)生、蓮(lian)子、桂(gui)圓(yuan)等(deng);④豆(dou)粽(zong)(zong),有(you)紅(hong)豆(dou)、綠豆(dou)、蠶豆(dou)、豌豆(dou)、蕓豆(dou)、豇豆(dou)、黃豆(dou)等(deng);⑤葷料(liao)(liao)粽(zong)(zong),有(you)豬肉(rou)(rou)、豬油、火腿、臘肉(rou)(rou)、叉燒(shao)肉(rou)(rou)、香(xiang)腸(chang)、牛(niu)肉(rou)(rou)、雞肉(rou)(rou)、鴨肉(rou)(rou)、鵝肉(rou)(rou)、鮮蛋、咸蛋、蝦米、干貝(bei)、淡菜等(deng)等(deng)。
五(wu)芳齋粽子制作技藝具(ju)有(you)極(ji)高的實用價(jia)值(zhi)、文化價(jia)值(zhi)和(he)經濟價(jia)值(zhi),其核(he)心在于將(jiang)老(lao)字號品牌文化和(he)傳統技藝進行了完美(mei)結合,散(san)發出獨(du)特的魅力。
為(wei)了宣傳粽(zong)(zong)子文(wen)化,展示五(wu)芳齋裹粽(zong)(zong)技藝,五(wu)芳齋集團十分重視五(wu)芳齋品牌及其(qi)文(wen)化保(bao)護建設,從集團決策(ce)層(ceng)到一(yi)線經營部門,建立(li)了專門機構開(kai)展工作,發掘、歸納、研究(jiu)、總(zong)結、豐富、弘揚中華民族的粽(zong)(zong)子文(wen)化。
在(zai)傳承與發(fa)展中,五芳(fang)(fang)齋人對(dui)傳統制(zhi)粽技藝在(zai)選料(liao)、配料(liao)、調味、包扎(zha)、蒸煮等多道(dao)工(gong)序(xu)上十分講究,精(jing)益求精(jing)。保(bao)障(zhang)五芳(fang)(fang)齋品牌得(de)到有效的(de)維護和傳播。
集團特別(bie)選(xuan)拔組(zu)建了第一支粽藝(yi)師(shi)隊伍。首批參(can)加(jia)培(pei)訓的9名粽藝(yi)師(shi)人選(xuan),除了2名是專職的之外,其余7名全是從裹粽車間選(xuan)出來的比(bi)較優秀(xiu)的人選(xuan)。
五芳(fang)齋(zhai)對粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)藝(yi)(yi)師進行企業(ye)概況(kuang)、粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)子文(wen)化、粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)子常識、媒體應訪、裹粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)工藝(yi)(yi)、形(xing)體表演、解(jie)說訓(xun)練方(fang)面的(de)培訓(xun)。粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)藝(yi)(yi)師在產業(ye)園工業(ye)旅游區、賣(mai)場促銷場所、展銷會、各類民俗(su)文(wen)化活動等(deng)場所從(cong)事粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)藝(yi)(yi)表演和(he)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)藝(yi)(yi)講解(jie),宣傳(chuan)(chuan)五芳(fang)齋(zhai)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)子的(de)傳(chuan)(chuan)統(tong)文(wen)化,傳(chuan)(chuan)達(da)中國粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)子的(de)悠長歷史,以專業(ye)的(de)形(xing)象面向社(she)會。
五芳(fang)齋(zhai)裹粽技藝(yi)表演隊在穗、滬、寧、甬(yong)、京等市的(de)多場“絕活(huo)”出色表演,既展示了(le)粽子文化的(de)迷(mi)人魅力,同時也樹立了(le)五芳(fang)齋(zhai)人的(de)時代(dai)藝(yi)術形象,體現(xian)了(le)濃郁的(de)中國粽子制作和(he)傳統飲食文化。
五芳(fang)齋(zhai)一直為(wei)媒體所關注,近(jin)百家著名報刊、電視臺網絡等媒體的大(da)力傳播更凸現了(le)五芳(fang)齋(zhai)精神文化(hua),由五芳(fang)齋(zhai)發起(qi)并(bing)承(cheng)辦的首屆中國(guo)(guo)粽(zong)子文化(hua)節不僅展示了(le)五芳(fang)齋(zhai)的特(te)殊魅力,還推動(dong)了(le)整個中國(guo)(guo)粽(zong)子產業的發展以及粽(zong)子在中國(guo)(guo)食品(pin)(pin)業中的影(ying)響力。這一切使(shi)人們更加深化(hua)了(le)對中華(hua)民(min)族粽(zong)子這一中國(guo)(guo)歷史上文化(hua)積(ji)淀(dian)最深厚的傳統食品(pin)(pin)的理解。