在山(shan)西,人(ren)們(men)壽(shou)(shou)誕生辰,聚友(you)團(tuan)圓(yuan)時,常常要吃(chi)這種面,以示長壽(shou)(shou)和喜慶。龍須面配料精細,制作講究,其制作方法過(guo)去曾被認(ren)為是(shi)絕(jue)招,秘而(er)(er)不傳。龍須拉面的(de)面團(tuan)被和勻后(hou)(hou),抻開(kai),卷(juan)(juan)起(qi),再(zai)抻開(kai),再(zai)卷(juan)(juan)起(qi),如此數扣(kou)之(zhi)后(hou)(hou),師傅們(men)將(jiang)拉好(hao)的(de)面放在撒(sa)滿(man)面粉的(de)幾案上抖開(kai),而(er)(er)后(hou)(hou)兩手像搭毛線(xian)般(ban)地(di)將(jiang)面抻開(kai)并抖動著。整個景(jing)象就如瀑布嘩(hua)嘩(hua)瀉下一(yi)般(ban),蔚(yu)為壯觀(guan)。片(pian)刻(ke)之(zhi)后(hou)(hou)走上前去,看(kan)到拉好(hao)的(de)面已如絲般(ban)纖細,這已是(shi)標準的(de)龍須面了。
先用面(mian)水(shui)(shui)5∶3的(de)比例和(he)好(hao)面(mian),然后(hou)在上(shang)面(mian)抹(mo)點香油醒著,將醒好(hao)的(de)面(mian)放(fang)在案板上(shang),揉勻或搓(cuo)成(cheng)長(chang)條,雙手(shou)提兩端稍晃,再搓(cuo)成(cheng)長(chang)條狀(zhuang),搟成(cheng)片形(xing),略醒后(hou)用刀橫切成(cheng)小手(shou)指(zhi)粗的(de)長(chang)條,撒勻面(mian)粉或抹(mo)勻香油,逐根(gen)(gen)或幾根(gen)(gen)并拉,拉成(cheng)細條投入沸(fei)水(shui)(shui)鍋(guo)內,煮熟配上(shang)鹵即(ji)成(cheng)。
龍(long)(long)須(xu)(xu)拉面(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)源頭(tou)(tou)是(shi)始于(yu)唐朝的(de)(de)(de)小(xiao)(xiao)拉面(mian)(mian)。《新唐書·王皇后(hou)傳(chuan)》記有“陛(bi)下獨不(bu)念阿忠(zhong)脫(tuo)紫半(ban)臂易斗面(mian)(mian),為(wei)生(sheng)(sheng)日(ri)(ri)湯(tang)(tang)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)耶”。這(zhe)種生(sheng)(sheng)日(ri)(ri)湯(tang)(tang)餅(bing)(bing)(bing),已可(ke)“舉箸食(shi)”(劉(liu)禹錫《贈(zeng)進士張盥(guan)》),是(shi)和(he)軟(ruan)面(mian)(mian)團,用(yong)刀(dao)切條,將(jiang)條拉細、拉長(chang)后(hou)落鍋(guo)煮(zhu)熟食(shi)用(yong),民間至(zhi)今保留(liu)此(ci)(ci)(ci)法,稱之(zhi)為(wei)小(xiao)(xiao)拉面(mian)(mian)。王皇后(hou)為(wei)李隆(long)基做(zuo)生(sheng)(sheng)日(ri)(ri)湯(tang)(tang)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)的(de)(de)(de)故事,發生(sheng)(sheng)在李隆(long)基作潞州別駕(jia)的(de)(de)(de)時候,可(ke)見唐代至(zhi)少太原、長(chang)治等山(shan)西(xi)(xi)地區(qu)已將(jiang)小(xiao)(xiao)拉面(mian)(mian)作為(wei)生(sheng)(sheng)日(ri)(ri)長(chang)壽面(mian)(mian)而制作和(he)食(shi)用(yong)了。后(hou)來(lai),這(zhe)一拉面(mian)(mian)技(ji)(ji)(ji)藝隨著太原玄中(zhong)(zhong)寺的(de)(de)(de)凈土宗(zong)東傳(chuan)日(ri)(ri)本,形成日(ri)(ri)本拉面(mian)(mian)技(ji)(ji)(ji)術的(de)(de)(de)基礎。到(dao)了宋代,趙光(guang)(guang)義鏟平晉陽西(xi)(xi)北系(xi)舟(zhou)山(shan),意欲拔掉“龍(long)(long)角(jiao)”。第二(er)年太原百(bai)姓將(jiang)二(er)月初的(de)(de)(de)中(zhong)(zhong)和(he)節改(gai)為(wei)“龍(long)(long)頭(tou)(tou)節”,并固定(ding)在二(er)月初二(er)以作紀念。此(ci)(ci)(ci)日(ri)(ri),百(bai)姓多吃拉面(mian)(mian),意思(si)是(shi)你拔我“龍(long)(long)角(jiao)”,我挑你“龍(long)(long)筋”、吃你“龍(long)(long)須(xu)(xu)”,以示憤恨。自此(ci)(ci)(ci),拉面(mian)(mian)又(you)被(bei)稱為(wei)龍(long)(long)須(xu)(xu)面(mian)(mian),黃庭堅曾作詩(shi)“湯(tang)(tang)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)一杯銀絲亂,牽絲如縷(lv)玉簪(zan)橫(heng)”。元代時,馬可(ke)波羅三(san)訪太原,將(jiang)這(zhe)種拉面(mian)(mian)技(ji)(ji)(ji)術帶回意大(da)利(li),形成影(ying)響西(xi)(xi)方面(mian)(mian)食(shi)技(ji)(ji)(ji)術和(he)飲食(shi)文化(hua)的(de)(de)(de)意大(da)利(li)通心粉面(mian)(mian)食(shi)。小(xiao)(xiao)拉面(mian)(mian)何時發展成大(da)把拉面(mian)(mian),暫不(bu)可(ke)考,但明(ming)人宋詡(xu)《宋氏養生(sheng)(sheng)部》記載(zai):“用(yong)少鹽入水和(he)面(mian)(mian),一斤為(wei)率(lv)。既(ji)勻,沃香(xiang)油少許……漸以兩手纏絡于(yu)直(zhi)(zhi)指、將(jiang)指、無名(ming)指之(zhi)間,為(wei)細條,先作沸湯(tang)(tang),隨拉隨煮(zhu)。”可(ke)見山(shan)西(xi)(xi)明(ming)代時已有大(da)拉面(mian)(mian)制作技(ji)(ji)(ji)術。清(qing)道(dao)光(guang)(guang)年間,山(shan)西(xi)(xi)稷山(shan)縣馬金定(ding)兄弟,千里迢迢去陜西(xi)(xi)岐山(shan)做(zuo)掛(gua)面(mian)(mian)生(sheng)(sheng)意,字(zi)(zi)號“順天(tian)成”,直(zhi)(zhi)到(dao)今天(tian),岐山(shan)掛(gua)面(mian)(mian)還沿用(yong)這(zhe)個老字(zi)(zi)號。這(zhe)種掛(gua)面(mian)(mian)起初就(jiu)是(shi)將(jiang)面(mian)(mian)拉好后(hou),掛(gua)在線(xian)上曬干銷(xiao)(xiao)售(shou),是(shi)面(mian)(mian)作為(wei)半(ban)成品(pin)銷(xiao)(xiao)售(shou)的(de)(de)(de)典范。
清(qing)朝(chao)末(mo)年,拉面已成(cheng)為(wei)山、陜面食(shi)制作的(de)成(cheng)熟(shu)技(ji)術。清(qing)末(mo)薛寶辰(chen)著的(de)《素食(shi)說略(lve)》中(zhong)說,在山、陜流行一種(zhong)“楨(zhen)條面”:“以(yi)水和面,入(ru)(ru)鹽、清(qing)油揉勻(yun),覆以(yi)濕布,俟其(qi)軟和,扯(che)開細煮之,名為(wei)楨(zhen)條面。做法以(yi)山西太原、平(ping)定州(zhou)(zhou)、陜西朝(chao)邑、同州(zhou)(zhou)為(wei)最(zui)。”這種(zhong)楨(zhen)條面,即(ji)山西拉面,也稱龍須面,在清(qing)代(dai)(dai)還進入(ru)(ru)宮廷。《清(qing)稗類鈔》、《中(zhong)國歷代(dai)(dai)御膳(shan)大(da)觀》中(zhong)記(ji),內(nei)廷大(da)宴(yan)(yan)之一、清(qing)朝(chao)帝王的(de)壽(shou)誕(dan)宴(yan)(yan)——萬(wan)壽(shou)宴(yan)(yan),以(yi)及(ji)滿漢(han)全(quan)席第(di)一宴(yan)(yan)的(de)蒙古親藩宴(yan)(yan),都(dou)以(yi)龍須面作為(wei)御宴(yan)(yan)的(de)重要膳(shan)食(shi)。
“千招易學(xue),一竅難(nan)得(de)”。拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)制作(zuo)技(ji)術(shu)解放前曾被認(ren)為(wei)(wei)(wei)是“絕招”,秘而不傳(chuan)。解放后,逐漸(jian)在(zai)社會(hui)上得(de)以公開,成為(wei)(wei)(wei)山西面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)案的(de)(de)基本功,受(shou)到(dao)(dao)山西飲食界(jie)的(de)(de)重(zhong)視(shi),并(bing)不斷在(zai)實踐探(tan)索(suo)中細分(fen)為(wei)(wei)(wei)小拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(一根(gen)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian))、大拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(6至8扣)、龍(long)須拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(10扣以上),空心拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)等(deng)。現在(zai),龍(long)須拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)除食用之外,還作(zuo)為(wei)(wei)(wei)一種(zhong)表(biao)演藝術(shu),拉至14扣時,共(gong)計28924根(gen),相(xiang)連(lian)長(chang)達25公里。全晉(jin)會(hui)館的(de)(de)蒙眼拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),還曾獲得(de)全國廚(chu)藝絕技(ji)超群獎(jiang),多次應(ying)邀赴日本、新加坡、臺灣等(deng)國家和(he)地區表(biao)演。2008年初,全晉(jin)會(hui)館作(zuo)為(wei)(wei)(wei)傳(chuan)承單(dan)位的(de)(de)龍(long)須拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),被列入第二批國家級非物質文化遺產保護名錄(lu),受(shou)到(dao)(dao)了國家的(de)(de)高(gao)度重(zhong)視(shi)。龍(long)須拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)制作(zuo),這一山西面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食中技(ji)術(shu)性強的(de)(de)特(te)色手工技(ji)藝和(he)表(biao)演藝術(shu),將在(zai)新時代煥發(fa)出傳(chuan)承文脈(mo)、走向(xiang)和(he)諧、造福社會(hui)的(de)(de)無比絢麗奪目的(de)(de)光(guang)彩。