簡介
石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城被稱為石(shi)(shi)(shi)城,廣義(yi)上它是如今南京的別稱,狹義(yi)上它是指南京老城城西的石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)山石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城。孫權(quan)在石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)山修建了(le)(le)石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城,用(yong)它作為保護東吳京師建業的資本(ben);預(yu)備軍(jun)(jun)事石(shi)(shi)(shi)材,石(shi)(shi)(shi)材基地多建造了(le)(le)烽火臺,在軍(jun)(jun)事上,用(yong)來立(li)即發出報警(jing)信號。后來,金(jin)(jin)將軍(jun)(jun)王(wang)俊率(lv)海軍(jun)(jun)進攻東吳,東吳家連鎖橫(heng)江(jiang)塊,晉軍(jun)(jun)斷鏈(lian)。導致石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城失守,不得人心的國王(wang)孫皓趕緊投降(jiang)。劉(liu)禹錫(xi)有(you)詩詠和事:“王(wang)濬樓船下(xia)益州,金(jin)(jin)陵王(wang)氣(qi)黯然收。”
后(hou)來,長江已逐漸西遷,并在(zai)石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)的(de)(de)河(he)流泥(ni)沙的(de)(de)沉積,變得平坦。石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)不再是(shi)這(zhe)么危(wei)險。朱園建(jian)設天府石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)市(shi)為(wei)天府市(shi)的(de)(de)一(yi)部(bu)分(fen)。石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)山如今是(shi)涼爽(shuang)的(de)(de)山區。這(zhe)是(shi)在(zai)西方的(de)(de)河(he),是(shi)一(yi)條河(he)天然石(shi)(shi)(shi)材的(de)(de)影響。建(jian)造石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng),天然石(shi)(shi)(shi)材是(shi)城(cheng)市(shi)的(de)(de)墻的(de)(de)一(yi)部(bu)分(fen)。
歷史沿革
石頭(tou)城全(quan)長(chang)約3000米(mi) ,筑(zhu)于楚威王七年(nian)(nian)(前333年(nian)(nian))。東漢建安十(shi)六(liu)年(nian)(nian)(211年(nian)(nian)),吳國孫權遷至秣(mo)陵(今(jin)南京),在(zai)石頭(tou)山金陵邑原址筑(zhu)城,取名石頭(tou)。扼守長(chang)江險(xian)要,為(wei)兵(bing)家必爭之(zhi)地(di),有石城虎踞(ju)之(zhi)稱。
在南京的(de)清涼山西(xi)麓,自虎踞關龍蟠里石頭城門(men)到草場門(men),可以(yi)看到城墻逶迤雄峙,石崖(ya)聳立,這就是依(yi)山而(er)筑(zhu)的(de)石頭城。同治《上江兩縣志.山考》載:“自江北以(yi)來,山皆(jie)無石,至此山始有(you)(you)石,故名。”《建(jian)康志》也(ye)說:“山上有(you)(you)城,又名曰石城山。”這里所說的(de)“城”,也(ye)就是石頭城。
關(guan)于石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)由來,要追溯到兩千多年(nian)(nian)前(qian)的(de)(de)(de)戰(zhan)(zhan)國(guo)時(shi)代。據史(shi)書記(ji)載,周(zhou)(zhou)顯(xian)王三十(shi)六年(nian)(nian)(公(gong)元(yuan)前(qian)333年(nian)(nian)),楚(chu)國(guo)(都城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)郢,即(ji)(ji)今(jin)湖北(bei)江(jiang)陵(ling)(ling))滅(mie)(mie)了越(yue)國(guo)(都城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)吳(wu),即(ji)(ji)今(jin)蘇州),楚(chu)威(wei)(wei)王設置(zhi)金陵(ling)(ling)邑,并(bing)在(zai)(zai)今(jin)清(qing)(qing)涼(liang)山上(shang)筑(zhu)(zhu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。秦(qin)(qin)(qin)始(shi)皇二十(shi)四年(nian)(nian)(公(gong)元(yuan)前(qian)223年(nian)(nian)),楚(chu)國(guo)滅(mie)(mie)亡,秦(qin)(qin)(qin)改金陵(ling)(ling)邑為(wei)秣(mo)陵(ling)(ling)縣(xian)。相傳三國(guo)時(shi),諸(zhu)葛亮(liang)在(zai)(zai)赤(chi)壁之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)戰(zhan)(zhan)前(qian)夕(xi),出使東(dong)(dong)吳(wu),與孫(sun)權共商破(po)曹大(da)計。據說,諸(zhu)葛亮(liang)途經秣(mo)陵(ling)(ling)縣(xian)時(shi),特(te)地(di)騎馬到石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)山觀察山川(chuan)形勢。他看到以(yi)鐘(zhong)山為(wei)首的(de)(de)(de)群山,像蒼龍一(yi)般蜿蜒(yan)蟠伏于東(dong)(dong)南(nan),而(er)(er)以(yi)石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)山為(wei)終(zhong)點的(de)(de)(de)西(xi)部諸(zhu)山,又像猛虎(hu)似地(di)雄踞在(zai)(zai)大(da)江(jiang)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)濱,于是發出了“鐘(zhong)山龍蟠,石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)虎(hu)踞,真乃帝王之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)宅也(ye)”的(de)(de)(de)贊嘆,并(bing)向孫(sun)權建議遷都秣(mo)陵(ling)(ling)。 孫(sun)權在(zai)(zai)赤(chi)壁之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)戰(zhan)(zhan)后,遷移到秣(mo)陵(ling)(ling)(今(jin)南(nan)京),并(bing)改稱秣(mo)陵(ling)(ling)為(wei)建業。第二年(nian)(nian)就(jiu)在(zai)(zai)清(qing)(qing)涼(liang)山原有城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)基上(shang)修建了著(zhu)名的(de)(de)(de)石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。當時(shi)長江(jiang)就(jiu)從(cong)清(qing)(qing)涼(liang)山下流過,因而(er)(er)石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)軍(jun)(jun)(jun)事(shi)地(di)位(wei)十(shi)分突出,孫(sun)吳(wu)也(ye)一(yi)直(zhi)將(jiang)此處作(zuo)為(wei)最主要的(de)(de)(de)水軍(jun)(jun)(jun)基地(di)。此后數百(bai)年(nian)(nian)間,這里成為(wei)戰(zhan)(zhan)守的(de)(de)(de)軍(jun)(jun)(jun)事(shi)重(zhong)鎮,南(nan)北(bei)戰(zhan)(zhan)爭,往往以(yi)奪(duo)取石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)決定勝負。 石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)以(yi)清(qing)(qing)涼(liang)山西(xi)坡天(tian)然峭(qiao)壁為(wei)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)基,環山筑(zhu)(zhu)造,周(zhou)(zhou)長“七里一(yi)百(bai)步”,相當于如今(jin)的(de)(de)(de)六里左(zuo)右。北(bei)緣大(da)江(jiang),南(nan)抵(di)秦(qin)(qin)(qin)淮河口(kou),南(nan)開二門,東(dong)(dong)開一(yi)門,南(nan)門之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)西(xi)為(wei)西(xi)門,城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)依山傍水,夾淮帶江(jiang),險固現時(shi)勢威(wei)(wei)。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)內設置(zhi)有石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)庫、石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)倉,用以(yi)儲軍(jun)(jun)(jun)糧和兵械。在(zai)(zai)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)的(de)(de)(de)高處筑(zhu)(zhu)有報(bao)警的(de)(de)(de)烽火臺,可以(yi)隨(sui)時(shi)發出預報(bao)敵軍(jun)(jun)(jun)侵犯的(de)(de)(de)信號(hao)。至南(nan)朝時(shi),石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)作(zuo)為(wei)保衛(wei)都城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)軍(jun)(jun)(jun)事(shi)要塞的(de)(de)(de)地(di)位(wei)依舊未(wei)變。 古代長江(jiang)繞清(qing)(qing)涼(liang)山麓東(dong)(dong)去,巨浪時(shi)時(shi)拍擊山壁,將(jiang)山崖沖刷(shua)成峭(qiao)壁。隋文帝滅(mie)(mie)陳、平毀建康城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)后,在(zai)(zai)石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)置(zhi)蔣州,唐代初年(nian)(nian)在(zai)(zai)石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)設揚州大(da)都督府(fu),石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)在(zai)(zai)隋朝和初唐時(shi)是南(nan)京地(di)區(qu)的(de)(de)(de)中(zhong)心。
唐(tang)代以后(hou)江(jiang)水日(ri)漸西移,自唐(tang)武德八年(nian)(625年(nian))后(hou),石頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)便開(kai)始廢棄,故中唐(tang)詩人劉(liu)禹錫作《石頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)》一詩云:“山圍(wei)故國周遭(zao)在,潮打空城(cheng)(cheng)寂寞(mo)回(hui)。淮水東邊(bian)舊時月,夜深還過女墻來(lai)。”詩人筆下的石頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng),已是一座(zuo)荒(huang)蕪寂寞(mo)的“空城(cheng)(cheng)”了(le)(le)。五(wu)代時期(924年(nian))。石頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)上興建了(le)(le)第一座(zuo)寺廟(miao)——興教寺,以后(hou)這里就成為寺廟(miao)、書院集中的風景名勝(sheng)區了(le)(le)。直(zhi)到今天,它仍以“石城(cheng)(cheng)虎踞(ju)”的雄姿享譽中外。
據(ju)地質(zhi)學研(yan)究,這里的(de)(de)(de)巖層是(shi)距今大約1億年到7000萬年前的(de)(de)(de)晚白堊紀(ji)的(de)(de)(de)浦口組(zu)地層, 在清涼(liang)門到草場門之(zhi)間(jian)(jian)的(de)(de)(de)城(cheng)(cheng)墻下面(mian),有(you)一塊(kuai)突出的(de)(de)(de)橢圓形石(shi)(shi)壁,長(chang)約6米,寬3米,因為(wei)長(chang)年風化,礫石(shi)(shi)剝(bo)落,坑(keng)坑(keng)洼(wa)洼(wa),斑斑點點,中(zhong)間(jian)(jian)還雜有(you)紫黑相間(jian)(jian)的(de)(de)(de)巖塊(kuai),怪石(shi)(shi)嶙(lin)峋,遠看(kan)隱約可見耳目口鼻(bi),酷似一副猙獰的(de)(de)(de)鬼(gui)臉(lian)(lian),被稱為(wei)“鬼(gui)臉(lian)(lian)城(cheng)(cheng)”。南京(jing)民間(jian)(jian)中(zhong)有(you)關(guan)鬼(gui)臉(lian)(lian)城(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)傳(chuan)說很多。相傳(chuan)這塊(kuai)巖石(shi)(shi)原來猶如(ru)刀削(xue)一般,光滑如(ru)境。如(ru)今在鬼(gui)臉(lian)(lian)城(cheng)(cheng)西(xi)側確有(you)一處清亮(liang)的(de)(de)(de)池塘,從水(shui)面(mian)的(de)(de)(de)一側可以看(kan)到鬼(gui)臉(lian)(lian)城(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)倒影,老南京(jing)人俗(su)稱之(zhi)為(wei)“鬼(gui)臉(lian)(lian)照鏡子”。
這一神奇(qi)的(de)傳(chuan)說,吸引了無數的(de)中外(wai)游人。石頭城遺址已被列為江蘇省(sheng)重點文(wen)物保護(hu)單(dan)位(wei),成(cheng)為人們踏青(qing)覓(mi)翠、發思古之幽情(qing)的(de)好去處。
南(nan)(nan)京(jing)石(shi)(shi)頭城(cheng)(cheng)城(cheng)(cheng)基因(yin)就自然山巖鑿成(cheng),中(zhong)段有幾塊蕩(dang)紅(hong)色(se)砂(sha)礫巖因(yin)經古(gu)時(shi)長(chang)(chang)江(jiang)(jiang)水沖刷而(er)凹(ao)凸不平(ping),有如獸(shou)面(mian),故俗稱鬼臉(lian)城(cheng)(cheng)。石(shi)(shi)頭城(cheng)(cheng)周長(chang)(chang)約3000米,南(nan)(nan)面(mian)開2門(men),東面(mian)開1門(men),西(xi)北因(yin)緊(jin)靠(kao)長(chang)(chang)江(jiang)(jiang),故不設城(cheng)(cheng)門(men)。當時(shi),石(shi)(shi)頭城(cheng)(cheng)為孫吳水師的(de)(de)(de)總部,江(jiang)(jiang)泊常有上千艘(sou)船(chuan)只(zhi)。城(cheng)(cheng)內建有石(shi)(shi)頭倉庫,用來儲存糧食、兵器(qi)等物資。城(cheng)(cheng)西(xi)最高(gao)處(chu)(chu)還建有孫吳的(de)(de)(de)烽火臺(tai)(tai)。據說(shuo)一(yi)旦(dan)發現敵情,在烽火臺(tai)(tai)一(yi)舉烽火,半日(ri)內即(ji)可傳遍長(chang)(chang)江(jiang)(jiang)沿(yan)線(xian)。石(shi)(shi)頭城(cheng)(cheng)地勢(shi)險(xian)峻,自古(gu)就有“石(shi)(shi)城(cheng)(cheng)虎踞”之稱。以后由于長(chang)(chang)江(jiang)(jiang)河道逐漸(jian)西(xi)移,石(shi)(shi)頭城(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)軍事價(jia)值有所減弱。明代朱元璋定都南(nan)(nan)京(jing)后,于洪武二年興建城(cheng)(cheng)墻,此(ci)處(chu)(chu)石(shi)(shi)頭城(cheng)(cheng)便成(cheng)了南(nan)(nan)京(jing)城(cheng)(cheng)墻的(de)(de)(de)一(yi)部分。如今石(shi)(shi)頭城(cheng)(cheng)已是聞名中(zhong)外的(de)(de)(de)歷(li)史古(gu)跡,也是南(nan)(nan)京(jing)重要的(de)(de)(de)旅游勝地之一(yi)。
在南京(jing)石頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)西(xi),景色清幽,有(you)“城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)市山林”之稱。清涼山上,名(ming)勝(sheng)古跡隨處可(ke)尋,有(you)“駐(zhu)馬坡”、“南唐古井(jing)”、“清涼寺”、“崇(chong)正(zheng)書院”及“掃葉樓”等。石頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)在清涼山后,南北全長(chang)約3000米(mi)。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)基遺跡為赭紅色,內有(you)大量(liang)河(he)光(guang)石,一般高出地表0.3-0.7米(mi),最(zui)高處為17米(mi),系自然山巖(yan)鑿成。東晉義熙年間(405-418)加磚(zhuan)累甓,明洪武二年(1369年)石頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)為應天(tian)府城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(今(jin)南京(jing))的一部分重加修(xiu)建。交通:乘(cheng)游(you)4路,6、21、23、60、75、91、302路車可(ke)達。
公園建設
1990年,南(nan)京市在石頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)舊(jiu)址(zhi)上興建(jian)了石頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)公園。公園以“石城(cheng)(cheng)懷古”為主題,將石頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)悠久歷史(shi)(shi)與自(zi)然山(shan)水有機結合,將古代(dai)戰場與現代(dai)國防教育(yu)融為一體(ti),規劃(hua)總(zong)面積近16.94公頃, 以古城(cheng)(cheng)墻為軸線,體(ti)現歷史(shi)(shi)文化古都的(de)(de)特色。北起(qi)清涼山(shan)體(ti)校,南(nan)至清涼門,西臨古城(cheng)(cheng)墻,東到虎踞(ju)路(lu)。
石(shi)頭城(cheng)又(you)稱“鬼(gui)臉(lian)城(cheng)”,是(shi)三國東吳時期孫權(quan)在赤壁之戰后, 于公(gong)元211年將首府(fu)由京口(今(jin)鎮(zhen)江(jiang))遷至秣陵(今(jin)南京),利用清(qing)涼山(shan)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)天然石(shi)壁建立的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)軍事(shi)要塞(sai),地勢險要,氣勢雄偉,是(shi)歷(li)史滄桑的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)實(shi)物(wu)見(jian)證。站于此(ci)地,最(zui)能領會(hui)劉禹錫《西塞(sai)山(shan)懷古(gu)》和譽為登臨之絕(jue)唱的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)王安石(shi)《桂枝香》-金(jin)陵懷古(gu)詞(ci)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)意境。“鬼(gui)臉(lian)照鏡(jing)(jing)子” 是(shi)一(yi)(yi)個在歷(li)史上(shang)即聞名(ming)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)景(jing)(jing)點,因在城(cheng)墻中(zhong)部有一(yi)(yi)塊突出墻體(ti)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)橢圓(yuan)形石(shi)壁,遠看隱約可(ke)見(jian)耳目(mu)口鼻,酷似一(yi)(yi)副鬼(gui)臉(lian),因此(ci)被稱為“鬼(gui)臉(lian)”,“鬼(gui)臉(lian)” 下(xia)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)這(zhe)面(mian)(mian)水塘” 鏡(jing)(jing)” 的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)積有1600多平方米。公(gong)園重修時,著名(ming)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)燕王河(he)景(jing)(jing)觀(guan)也從歷(li)史的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)覆蓋(gai)中(zhong)清(qing)理(li)出來(lai),重見(jian)天日,成為一(yi)(yi)條兩(liang)岸郁郁蔥蔥的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)清(qing)流。不論遠觀(guan)還是(shi)就近審(shen)視,城(cheng)墻垂柳,碧水綠樹,都是(shi)一(yi)(yi)方絕(jue)佳的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)景(jing)(jing)致。
石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)公園(yuan)劃(hua)分為(wei)國防(fang)春曉、石(shi)(shi)城(cheng)霽雪和山(shan)(shan)(shan)居秋(qiu)瞑三大景區(qu),設21個景點。石(shi)(shi)城(cheng)霽雪區(qu)位于公園(yuan)的(de)(de)西側,北至(zhi)清(qing)涼(liang)山(shan)(shan)(shan),南至(zhi)清(qing)涼(liang)門,沿古城(cheng)墻(qiang)呈帶狀分布,是(shi)石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)公園(yuan)的(de)(de)精(jing)華所在, 是(shi)金陵(ling)四十八景之(zhi)一(yi)(yi)。而山(shan)(shan)(shan)居秋(qiu)瞑區(qu)在公園(yuan)東(dong)側的(de)(de)山(shan)(shan)(shan)林地帶,植(zhi)被濃密,生機盎(ang)然,留(liu)連其中,可感受到盛唐時代著名的(de)(de)詩人(ren)王維那首著名田園(yuan)詩的(de)(de)意(yi)境:空山(shan)(shan)(shan)新(xin)雨后,天氣晚(wan)來秋(qiu)。 明月松間照(zhao),清(qing)泉石(shi)(shi)上流。竹(zhu)喧歸(gui)浣女,蓮動(dong)下漁舟。隨意(yi)春芳歇,王孫自可留(liu)。清(qing)涼(liang)山(shan)(shan)(shan)和石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)一(yi)(yi)帶有(you)“城(cheng)市山(shan)(shan)(shan)林”之(zhi)美稱,雨后秋(qiu)清(qing)氣爽的(de)(de)日子游(you)覽,當會感覺名不虛傳,不復有(you)元(yuan)代薩都(dou)剌《登石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)》一(yi)(yi)詞(ci)的(de)(de)凄楚與傷(shang)感。
跨過虎踞路(lu),清涼(liang)山公園與之遙相呼(hu)應(ying),一雄渾壯闊,一寧靜深沉,互為映襯。