簡介
石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)被稱為石(shi)(shi)(shi)城(cheng),廣義上(shang)它(ta)是(shi)如今(jin)南京(jing)的別稱,狹義上(shang)它(ta)是(shi)指南京(jing)老城(cheng)城(cheng)西的石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)山石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)。孫(sun)權在(zai)石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)山修建(jian)了(le)石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng),用它(ta)作為保護(hu)東(dong)吳(wu)京(jing)師建(jian)業的資本;預(yu)備(bei)軍(jun)(jun)事石(shi)(shi)(shi)材,石(shi)(shi)(shi)材基地(di)多建(jian)造了(le)烽火(huo)臺,在(zai)軍(jun)(jun)事上(shang),用來立(li)即發(fa)出報警信號。后來,金(jin)將(jiang)軍(jun)(jun)王(wang)(wang)俊(jun)率海軍(jun)(jun)進攻(gong)東(dong)吳(wu),東(dong)吳(wu)家連鎖橫(heng)江塊,晉軍(jun)(jun)斷鏈。導致石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)失守,不得人心的國王(wang)(wang)孫(sun)皓趕緊(jin)投降。劉禹錫有詩詠和事:“王(wang)(wang)濬樓船下益州,金(jin)陵王(wang)(wang)氣黯然收(shou)。”
后來,長江(jiang)已逐漸西(xi)遷,并在石頭(tou)城的(de)河流泥(ni)沙的(de)沉積,變得平坦(tan)。石頭(tou)城不再是(shi)這(zhe)么危險。朱園(yuan)建(jian)(jian)設天府石頭(tou)城市(shi)為天府市(shi)的(de)一(yi)部分(fen)。石頭(tou)山如今是(shi)涼爽(shuang)的(de)山區。這(zhe)是(shi)在西(xi)方的(de)河,是(shi)一(yi)條河天然石材(cai)的(de)影(ying)響。建(jian)(jian)造(zao)石頭(tou)城,天然石材(cai)是(shi)城市(shi)的(de)墻(qiang)的(de)一(yi)部分(fen)。
歷史沿革
石頭(tou)城全長(chang)約3000米 ,筑于楚威王七年(前333年)。東漢(han)建安十六年(211年),吳國孫權遷至秣陵(ling)(今南京),在石頭(tou)山(shan)金陵(ling)邑(yi)原址筑城,取名石頭(tou)。扼守長(chang)江險要,為(wei)兵家必爭(zheng)之(zhi)地,有(you)石城虎踞(ju)之(zhi)稱。
在南京的(de)清涼山(shan)(shan)(shan)西(xi)麓,自虎踞關龍蟠里石(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)門到草場門,可以(yi)看到城(cheng)(cheng)墻逶(wei)迤(yi)雄峙(zhi),石(shi)崖聳立(li),這就是依(yi)山(shan)(shan)(shan)而筑(zhu)的(de)石(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)。同(tong)治《上江(jiang)兩(liang)縣志(zhi).山(shan)(shan)(shan)考(kao)》載:“自江(jiang)北以(yi)來(lai),山(shan)(shan)(shan)皆(jie)無石(shi),至此山(shan)(shan)(shan)始有石(shi),故(gu)名。”《建(jian)康志(zhi)》也(ye)說:“山(shan)(shan)(shan)上有城(cheng)(cheng),又名曰石(shi)城(cheng)(cheng)山(shan)(shan)(shan)。”這里所說的(de)“城(cheng)(cheng)”,也(ye)就是石(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)。
關于(yu)石頭(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)由(you)來,要(yao)(yao)追溯到(dao)兩(liang)千多年(nian)(nian)(nian)前(qian)的(de)戰(zhan)國(guo)(guo)時(shi)(shi)代(dai)(dai)。據史書記載,周顯(xian)王三十六(liu)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(公元(yuan)前(qian)333年(nian)(nian)(nian)),楚(chu)國(guo)(guo)(都城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)郢,即今(jin)湖(hu)北江(jiang)陵(ling))滅了(le)越國(guo)(guo)(都城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)吳,即今(jin)蘇州(zhou)(zhou)),楚(chu)威(wei)王設(she)置(zhi)金陵(ling)邑,并(bing)在(zai)(zai)今(jin)清涼(liang)山(shan)(shan)(shan)上(shang)筑城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。秦(qin)始(shi)皇二(er)十四年(nian)(nian)(nian)(公元(yuan)前(qian)223年(nian)(nian)(nian)),楚(chu)國(guo)(guo)滅亡,秦(qin)改金陵(ling)邑為(wei)秣(mo)陵(ling)縣。相傳三國(guo)(guo)時(shi)(shi),諸葛(ge)亮(liang)(liang)在(zai)(zai)赤壁(bi)(bi)(bi)之(zhi)戰(zhan)前(qian)夕,出使(shi)東(dong)(dong)吳,與孫權共商破曹大(da)(da)計。據說(shuo),諸葛(ge)亮(liang)(liang)途經秣(mo)陵(ling)縣時(shi)(shi),特地騎馬到(dao)石頭(tou)(tou)(tou)山(shan)(shan)(shan)觀察(cha)山(shan)(shan)(shan)川形勢。他看到(dao)以鐘山(shan)(shan)(shan)為(wei)首的(de)群山(shan)(shan)(shan),像蒼龍(long)一(yi)般蜿蜒蟠伏于(yu)東(dong)(dong)南,而以石頭(tou)(tou)(tou)山(shan)(shan)(shan)為(wei)終點的(de)西(xi)部(bu)諸山(shan)(shan)(shan),又像猛虎似地雄(xiong)踞(ju)在(zai)(zai)大(da)(da)江(jiang)之(zhi)濱,于(yu)是發出了(le)“鐘山(shan)(shan)(shan)龍(long)蟠,石頭(tou)(tou)(tou)虎踞(ju),真乃(nai)帝王之(zhi)宅也(ye)”的(de)贊(zan)嘆,并(bing)向孫權建議遷都秣(mo)陵(ling)。 孫權在(zai)(zai)赤壁(bi)(bi)(bi)之(zhi)戰(zhan)后(hou),遷移到(dao)秣(mo)陵(ling)(今(jin)南京),并(bing)改稱秣(mo)陵(ling)為(wei)建業(ye)。第二(er)年(nian)(nian)(nian)就在(zai)(zai)清涼(liang)山(shan)(shan)(shan)原(yuan)有城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)基(ji)上(shang)修建了(le)著名(ming)的(de)石頭(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。當(dang)時(shi)(shi)長江(jiang)就從(cong)清涼(liang)山(shan)(shan)(shan)下流過(guo),因(yin)而石頭(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)軍事地位(wei)十分突出,孫吳也(ye)一(yi)直(zhi)將此處作(zuo)為(wei)最主要(yao)(yao)的(de)水軍基(ji)地。此后(hou)數百年(nian)(nian)(nian)間,這里成(cheng)為(wei)戰(zhan)守的(de)軍事重鎮,南北戰(zhan)爭,往往以奪取石頭(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)決(jue)定勝負。 石頭(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)以清涼(liang)山(shan)(shan)(shan)西(xi)坡天然峭(qiao)(qiao)壁(bi)(bi)(bi)為(wei)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)基(ji),環山(shan)(shan)(shan)筑造,周長“七(qi)里一(yi)百步”,相當(dang)于(yu)如(ru)今(jin)的(de)六(liu)里左右。北緣大(da)(da)江(jiang),南抵秦(qin)淮(huai)河口,南開(kai)二(er)門(men),東(dong)(dong)開(kai)一(yi)門(men),南門(men)之(zhi)西(xi)為(wei)西(xi)門(men),城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)依山(shan)(shan)(shan)傍(bang)水,夾淮(huai)帶江(jiang),險固現時(shi)(shi)勢威(wei)。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)內設(she)置(zhi)有石頭(tou)(tou)(tou)庫、石頭(tou)(tou)(tou)倉,用(yong)以儲(chu)軍糧和兵械。在(zai)(zai)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻的(de)高(gao)處筑有報警的(de)烽火臺,可以隨時(shi)(shi)發出預報敵(di)軍侵(qin)犯的(de)信號。至南朝(chao)時(shi)(shi),石頭(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)作(zuo)為(wei)保(bao)衛都城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)軍事要(yao)(yao)塞的(de)地位(wei)依舊未(wei)變。 古代(dai)(dai)長江(jiang)繞清涼(liang)山(shan)(shan)(shan)麓東(dong)(dong)去(qu),巨浪時(shi)(shi)時(shi)(shi)拍擊山(shan)(shan)(shan)壁(bi)(bi)(bi),將山(shan)(shan)(shan)崖沖刷(shua)成(cheng)峭(qiao)(qiao)壁(bi)(bi)(bi)。隋(sui)文帝滅陳、平毀建康城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)后(hou),在(zai)(zai)石頭(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)置(zhi)蔣州(zhou)(zhou),唐代(dai)(dai)初(chu)(chu)年(nian)(nian)(nian)在(zai)(zai)石頭(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)設(she)揚(yang)州(zhou)(zhou)大(da)(da)都督府,石頭(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)在(zai)(zai)隋(sui)朝(chao)和初(chu)(chu)唐時(shi)(shi)是南京地區的(de)中心。
唐代以后(hou)江水(shui)(shui)日漸西移,自唐武(wu)德八(ba)年(625年)后(hou),石頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)便開始廢棄,故中(zhong)唐詩(shi)人劉禹錫作(zuo)《石頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)》一(yi)(yi)詩(shi)云:“山圍故國周遭在,潮(chao)打(da)空(kong)城(cheng)(cheng)寂(ji)寞(mo)回(hui)。淮水(shui)(shui)東(dong)邊(bian)舊時月,夜(ye)深還過(guo)女墻來(lai)。”詩(shi)人筆下的(de)石頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng),已是一(yi)(yi)座荒蕪(wu)寂(ji)寞(mo)的(de)“空(kong)城(cheng)(cheng)”了(le)。五代時期(924年)。石頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)上(shang)興(xing)建了(le)第一(yi)(yi)座寺(si)廟——興(xing)教寺(si),以后(hou)這里就成為寺(si)廟、書院集中(zhong)的(de)風景名勝(sheng)區了(le)。直到今天,它仍(reng)以“石城(cheng)(cheng)虎(hu)踞”的(de)雄(xiong)姿享譽中(zhong)外。
據地(di)質學(xue)研究,這里的(de)巖層是距今大約1億年(nian)到7000萬年(nian)前的(de)晚白堊紀的(de)浦口(kou)(kou)組地(di)層, 在(zai)清涼門(men)到草場(chang)門(men)之間(jian)的(de)城(cheng)墻下面(mian),有(you)一(yi)塊突出的(de)橢圓形石(shi)壁(bi),長約6米(mi)(mi),寬(kuan)3米(mi)(mi),因為(wei)長年(nian)風化(hua),礫石(shi)剝落(luo),坑坑洼(wa)(wa)洼(wa)(wa),斑斑點(dian)點(dian),中間(jian)還雜有(you)紫黑相(xiang)(xiang)間(jian)的(de)巖塊,怪(guai)石(shi)嶙峋,遠(yuan)看隱約可(ke)見(jian)耳(er)目口(kou)(kou)鼻,酷似(si)一(yi)副猙獰的(de)鬼臉,被(bei)稱為(wei)“鬼臉城(cheng)”。南京民間(jian)中有(you)關鬼臉城(cheng)的(de)傳(chuan)說很(hen)多。相(xiang)(xiang)傳(chuan)這塊巖石(shi)原來猶如刀(dao)削一(yi)般(ban),光(guang)滑如境。如今在(zai)鬼臉城(cheng)西側(ce)確有(you)一(yi)處(chu)清亮(liang)的(de)池塘(tang),從(cong)水面(mian)的(de)一(yi)側(ce)可(ke)以看到鬼臉城(cheng)的(de)倒影,老南京人俗稱之為(wei)“鬼臉照鏡子”。
這一神奇(qi)的(de)傳說(shuo),吸引了無數的(de)中(zhong)外游人。石頭城遺址(zhi)已被列為(wei)江蘇(su)省重點文物保護單位,成為(wei)人們(men)踏青覓(mi)翠、發思古之幽情的(de)好去處。
南(nan)(nan)京石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)基因就(jiu)自然(ran)山巖鑿成,中段有幾(ji)塊蕩紅色砂礫(li)巖因經古時長(chang)(chang)江水(shui)(shui)沖刷而凹凸(tu)不平,有如獸面(mian),故(gu)俗稱(cheng)鬼臉城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)周長(chang)(chang)約3000米(mi),南(nan)(nan)面(mian)開(kai)2門(men),東面(mian)開(kai)1門(men),西北因緊靠長(chang)(chang)江,故(gu)不設城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)門(men)。當時,石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)為孫(sun)吳(wu)水(shui)(shui)師的(de)(de)總(zong)部(bu),江泊常(chang)有上千艘船(chuan)只。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)內(nei)建(jian)有石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)倉庫,用(yong)來(lai)儲存糧食(shi)、兵器等物資。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)西最高(gao)處還建(jian)有孫(sun)吳(wu)的(de)(de)烽(feng)火(huo)臺。據說一旦發現(xian)敵情,在烽(feng)火(huo)臺一舉烽(feng)火(huo),半日內(nei)即(ji)可傳遍長(chang)(chang)江沿線。石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)地勢險峻,自古就(jiu)有“石(shi)(shi)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)虎踞”之稱(cheng)。以(yi)后由于長(chang)(chang)江河道(dao)逐(zhu)漸西移,石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)軍(jun)事價值(zhi)有所(suo)減弱。明(ming)代朱元(yuan)璋定都南(nan)(nan)京后,于洪武二年興建(jian)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang),此(ci)處石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)便成了南(nan)(nan)京城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)的(de)(de)一部(bu)分(fen)。如今石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)已(yi)是聞名(ming)中外(wai)的(de)(de)歷史古跡(ji),也(ye)是南(nan)(nan)京重要的(de)(de)旅游勝(sheng)地之一。
在(zai)南京石頭城(cheng)城(cheng)西,景色清幽,有“城(cheng)市(shi)山林(lin)”之稱。清涼(liang)山上,名勝古(gu)跡隨處(chu)(chu)可(ke)尋,有“駐馬(ma)坡”、“南唐古(gu)井”、“清涼(liang)寺”、“崇正書院”及“掃葉樓(lou)”等。石頭城(cheng)在(zai)清涼(liang)山后,南北(bei)全長約3000米。城(cheng)基(ji)遺跡為赭(zhe)紅色,內有大量河光石,一般(ban)高出地(di)表(biao)0.3-0.7米,最(zui)高處(chu)(chu)為17米,系(xi)自然山巖鑿(zao)成(cheng)。東晉義熙(xi)年間(jian)(405-418)加磚累甓,明洪武(wu)二年(1369年)石頭城(cheng)為應天府(fu)城(cheng)(今南京)的一部(bu)分重加修建。交通:乘(cheng)游4路,6、21、23、60、75、91、302路車可(ke)達(da)。
公園建設
1990年,南京市(shi)在石(shi)頭城(cheng)(cheng)的(de)舊址上興建了石(shi)頭城(cheng)(cheng)公園。公園以(yi)“石(shi)城(cheng)(cheng)懷(huai)古(gu)”為(wei)主題,將石(shi)頭城(cheng)(cheng)的(de)悠久歷史與自然山(shan)水有機結(jie)合,將古(gu)代(dai)戰場與現(xian)代(dai)國防(fang)教(jiao)育融為(wei)一體,規劃(hua)總(zong)面積近16.94公頃, 以(yi)古(gu)城(cheng)(cheng)墻為(wei)軸(zhou)線,體現(xian)歷史文化古(gu)都(dou)的(de)特色(se)。北起清涼山(shan)體校,南至清涼門,西臨古(gu)城(cheng)(cheng)墻,東到(dao)虎(hu)踞(ju)路。
石頭城(cheng)(cheng)又稱(cheng)“鬼(gui)(gui)(gui)臉(lian)城(cheng)(cheng)”,是(shi)三(san)國東吳時期孫權(quan)在赤(chi)壁之(zhi)戰(zhan)后, 于(yu)公元211年(nian)將(jiang)首府由京口(今鎮江)遷至秣陵(今南京),利用清涼山(shan)的(de)(de)(de)(de)天(tian)然石壁建立的(de)(de)(de)(de)軍事要塞,地(di)勢險要,氣勢雄偉,是(shi)歷史(shi)滄桑的(de)(de)(de)(de)實(shi)物見證。站于(yu)此(ci)地(di),最(zui)能領會劉(liu)禹錫(xi)《西塞山(shan)懷(huai)古》和(he)譽為登臨之(zhi)絕唱的(de)(de)(de)(de)王安石《桂枝香》-金陵懷(huai)古詞的(de)(de)(de)(de)意境。“鬼(gui)(gui)(gui)臉(lian)照鏡子” 是(shi)一(yi)個(ge)在歷史(shi)上即聞名(ming)的(de)(de)(de)(de)景點,因在城(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)中部有(you)一(yi)塊突出墻(qiang)體的(de)(de)(de)(de)橢圓(yuan)形石壁,遠看隱約可見耳目口鼻(bi),酷(ku)似一(yi)副鬼(gui)(gui)(gui)臉(lian),因此(ci)被稱(cheng)為“鬼(gui)(gui)(gui)臉(lian)”,“鬼(gui)(gui)(gui)臉(lian)” 下的(de)(de)(de)(de)這面(mian)水塘” 鏡” 的(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)積(ji)有(you)1600多平方米。公園重修時,著(zhu)名(ming)的(de)(de)(de)(de)燕王河(he)景觀也從歷史(shi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)覆(fu)蓋中清理出來,重見天(tian)日,成(cheng)為一(yi)條(tiao)兩(liang)岸郁郁蔥(cong)蔥(cong)的(de)(de)(de)(de)清流。不論遠觀還是(shi)就近審視(shi),城(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)垂柳,碧水綠樹,都是(shi)一(yi)方絕佳(jia)的(de)(de)(de)(de)景致(zhi)。
石頭城(cheng)(cheng)公(gong)園劃分(fen)為國防(fang)春曉、石城(cheng)(cheng)霽雪(xue)和(he)山(shan)居(ju)(ju)秋(qiu)瞑三大景(jing)區(qu),設(she)21個景(jing)點。石城(cheng)(cheng)霽雪(xue)區(qu)位(wei)于公(gong)園的(de)(de)(de)西側(ce),北至(zhi)(zhi)清(qing)涼(liang)山(shan),南(nan)至(zhi)(zhi)清(qing)涼(liang)門,沿古城(cheng)(cheng)墻呈帶狀分(fen)布,是(shi)石頭城(cheng)(cheng)公(gong)園的(de)(de)(de)精(jing)華所在, 是(shi)金(jin)陵四(si)十(shi)八景(jing)之一。而(er)山(shan)居(ju)(ju)秋(qiu)瞑區(qu)在公(gong)園東側(ce)的(de)(de)(de)山(shan)林地(di)帶,植(zhi)被濃密(mi),生機(ji)盎然,留(liu)連其(qi)中,可感(gan)受到盛(sheng)唐時代著名的(de)(de)(de)詩(shi)人王(wang)維(wei)那首著名田園詩(shi)的(de)(de)(de)意(yi)(yi)境:空山(shan)新雨后(hou),天氣(qi)晚來秋(qiu)。 明月松間照(zhao),清(qing)泉(quan)石上(shang)流(liu)。竹喧歸浣(huan)女,蓮動下漁舟。隨意(yi)(yi)春芳歇,王(wang)孫自可留(liu)。清(qing)涼(liang)山(shan)和(he)石頭城(cheng)(cheng)一帶有“城(cheng)(cheng)市山(shan)林”之美稱,雨后(hou)秋(qiu)清(qing)氣(qi)爽的(de)(de)(de)日子游覽,當會感(gan)覺名不虛傳,不復有元代薩都剌(la)《登石頭城(cheng)(cheng)》一詞的(de)(de)(de)凄楚與傷感(gan)。
跨過虎踞路,清涼(liang)山公園與之遙相(xiang)呼應,一(yi)(yi)雄渾(hun)壯闊,一(yi)(yi)寧靜深沉,互為映襯。