簡介
石頭(tou)城被稱為(wei)石城,廣義上它(ta)是如(ru)今(jin)南京的(de)別稱,狹義上它(ta)是指南京老城城西的(de)石頭(tou)山(shan)石頭(tou)城。孫(sun)權在石頭(tou)山(shan)修建了(le)石頭(tou)城,用它(ta)作為(wei)保(bao)護東(dong)吳(wu)京師建業的(de)資本;預備軍(jun)(jun)(jun)事石材,石材基地(di)多(duo)建造了(le)烽火臺,在軍(jun)(jun)(jun)事上,用來立即發(fa)出報警(jing)信號(hao)。后來,金(jin)將軍(jun)(jun)(jun)王俊率海軍(jun)(jun)(jun)進攻東(dong)吳(wu),東(dong)吳(wu)家(jia)連(lian)鎖橫(heng)江塊,晉軍(jun)(jun)(jun)斷(duan)鏈。導致石頭(tou)城失守,不得人心的(de)國(guo)王孫(sun)皓趕(gan)緊投降。劉禹錫有詩詠和事:“王濬樓(lou)船(chuan)下益州,金(jin)陵王氣黯然收(shou)。”
后(hou)來,長(chang)江已逐(zhu)漸(jian)西(xi)遷(qian),并在石頭城的(de)(de)(de)河(he)流泥沙的(de)(de)(de)沉積,變得平(ping)坦。石頭城不再是這(zhe)么(me)危險。朱園建設天(tian)(tian)府(fu)石頭城市為天(tian)(tian)府(fu)市的(de)(de)(de)一(yi)部分。石頭山(shan)如今是涼爽的(de)(de)(de)山(shan)區。這(zhe)是在西(xi)方的(de)(de)(de)河(he),是一(yi)條河(he)天(tian)(tian)然石材的(de)(de)(de)影響。建造(zao)石頭城,天(tian)(tian)然石材是城市的(de)(de)(de)墻的(de)(de)(de)一(yi)部分。
歷史沿革
石(shi)頭城全長約(yue)3000米 ,筑于(yu)楚(chu)威王七年(nian)(前333年(nian))。東漢(han)建安十六年(nian)(211年(nian)),吳國孫權遷至秣陵(今南京),在石(shi)頭山(shan)金(jin)陵邑原址筑城,取名(ming)石(shi)頭。扼守長江險(xian)要,為兵家必爭之地(di),有石(shi)城虎踞之稱(cheng)。
在南(nan)京(jing)的清涼(liang)山(shan)(shan)西麓,自虎踞關(guan)龍蟠里(li)石(shi)頭城門到草場(chang)門,可以(yi)看到城墻逶迤雄峙,石(shi)崖聳立,這就(jiu)是依山(shan)(shan)而筑的石(shi)頭城。同治《上江兩縣志(zhi).山(shan)(shan)考》載:“自江北(bei)以(yi)來,山(shan)(shan)皆(jie)無石(shi),至此山(shan)(shan)始有石(shi),故(gu)名(ming)。”《建康志(zhi)》也說:“山(shan)(shan)上有城,又名(ming)曰石(shi)城山(shan)(shan)。”這里(li)所說的“城”,也就(jiu)是石(shi)頭城。
關(guan)于(yu)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)由來,要追溯到(dao)(dao)兩千多(duo)年(nian)(nian)前的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)戰國(guo)時(shi)代(dai)(dai)。據史書(shu)記載,周(zhou)顯王(wang)三十(shi)六年(nian)(nian)(公(gong)元(yuan)前333年(nian)(nian)),楚國(guo)(都城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)郢,即今湖北江(jiang)(jiang)陵(ling)(ling))滅了越國(guo)(都城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)吳(wu),即今蘇州),楚威(wei)王(wang)設置金陵(ling)(ling)邑(yi)(yi),并在(zai)(zai)(zai)今清(qing)涼(liang)(liang)(liang)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)上筑城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。秦(qin)始皇二十(shi)四年(nian)(nian)(公(gong)元(yuan)前223年(nian)(nian)),楚國(guo)滅亡,秦(qin)改金陵(ling)(ling)邑(yi)(yi)為(wei)(wei)(wei)秣(mo)陵(ling)(ling)縣(xian)。相傳三國(guo)時(shi),諸葛(ge)亮在(zai)(zai)(zai)赤壁(bi)之(zhi)戰前夕,出(chu)使(shi)東吳(wu),與孫(sun)權共(gong)商破曹大(da)(da)(da)計(ji)。據說,諸葛(ge)亮途經秣(mo)陵(ling)(ling)縣(xian)時(shi),特地騎馬(ma)到(dao)(dao)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)觀察山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)川(chuan)形勢。他看(kan)到(dao)(dao)以(yi)(yi)鐘山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)為(wei)(wei)(wei)首(shou)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)群(qun)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan),像(xiang)(xiang)蒼龍(long)(long)一(yi)般蜿蜒蟠伏于(yu)東南(nan)(nan)(nan)(nan),而以(yi)(yi)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)為(wei)(wei)(wei)終點(dian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)西(xi)部諸山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan),又像(xiang)(xiang)猛(meng)虎似地雄踞在(zai)(zai)(zai)大(da)(da)(da)江(jiang)(jiang)之(zhi)濱,于(yu)是發出(chu)了“鐘山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)龍(long)(long)蟠,石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)虎踞,真(zhen)乃帝王(wang)之(zhi)宅(zhai)也”的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)贊(zan)嘆,并向孫(sun)權建(jian)(jian)議遷都秣(mo)陵(ling)(ling)。 孫(sun)權在(zai)(zai)(zai)赤壁(bi)之(zhi)戰后(hou),遷移到(dao)(dao)秣(mo)陵(ling)(ling)(今南(nan)(nan)(nan)(nan)京),并改稱(cheng)秣(mo)陵(ling)(ling)為(wei)(wei)(wei)建(jian)(jian)業(ye)。第二年(nian)(nian)就在(zai)(zai)(zai)清(qing)涼(liang)(liang)(liang)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)原有(you)(you)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)基(ji)上修(xiu)建(jian)(jian)了著名的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。當時(shi)長江(jiang)(jiang)就從清(qing)涼(liang)(liang)(liang)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)下流過(guo),因(yin)而石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)軍(jun)事(shi)地位十(shi)分突出(chu),孫(sun)吳(wu)也一(yi)直將(jiang)(jiang)此處(chu)(chu)作為(wei)(wei)(wei)最主要的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)水(shui)(shui)軍(jun)基(ji)地。此后(hou)數百年(nian)(nian)間,這(zhe)里(li)成為(wei)(wei)(wei)戰守的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)軍(jun)事(shi)重鎮,南(nan)(nan)(nan)(nan)北戰爭,往(wang)往(wang)以(yi)(yi)奪取石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)決定勝負。 石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)以(yi)(yi)清(qing)涼(liang)(liang)(liang)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)西(xi)坡天然峭壁(bi)為(wei)(wei)(wei)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)基(ji),環山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)筑造,周(zhou)長“七里(li)一(yi)百步”,相當于(yu)如今的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)六里(li)左(zuo)右。北緣大(da)(da)(da)江(jiang)(jiang),南(nan)(nan)(nan)(nan)抵(di)秦(qin)淮河口,南(nan)(nan)(nan)(nan)開二門(men)(men),東開一(yi)門(men)(men),南(nan)(nan)(nan)(nan)門(men)(men)之(zhi)西(xi)為(wei)(wei)(wei)西(xi)門(men)(men),城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)依山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)傍水(shui)(shui),夾(jia)淮帶江(jiang)(jiang),險固現時(shi)勢威(wei)。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)內設置有(you)(you)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)庫(ku)、石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)倉,用(yong)以(yi)(yi)儲軍(jun)糧和兵械。在(zai)(zai)(zai)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)高處(chu)(chu)筑有(you)(you)報警的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)烽火臺,可以(yi)(yi)隨時(shi)發出(chu)預報敵軍(jun)侵(qin)犯的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)信(xin)號。至(zhi)南(nan)(nan)(nan)(nan)朝時(shi),石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)作為(wei)(wei)(wei)保衛都城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)軍(jun)事(shi)要塞的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)地位依舊未變。 古代(dai)(dai)長江(jiang)(jiang)繞清(qing)涼(liang)(liang)(liang)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)麓東去(qu),巨浪時(shi)時(shi)拍擊山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)壁(bi),將(jiang)(jiang)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)崖沖刷成峭壁(bi)。隋文帝滅陳、平毀建(jian)(jian)康城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)后(hou),在(zai)(zai)(zai)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)置蔣州,唐代(dai)(dai)初年(nian)(nian)在(zai)(zai)(zai)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)設揚州大(da)(da)(da)都督府,石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)在(zai)(zai)(zai)隋朝和初唐時(shi)是南(nan)(nan)(nan)(nan)京地區(qu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)中心。
唐代(dai)以(yi)(yi)后江水(shui)日漸(jian)西移,自唐武德八(ba)年(625年)后,石(shi)(shi)頭城(cheng)(cheng)便開始廢棄,故中(zhong)(zhong)唐詩人劉禹錫作《石(shi)(shi)頭城(cheng)(cheng)》一詩云:“山圍故國周遭在,潮打(da)空城(cheng)(cheng)寂寞回。淮水(shui)東(dong)邊舊時月,夜深還過女(nv)墻(qiang)來。”詩人筆下的(de)石(shi)(shi)頭城(cheng)(cheng),已(yi)是一座荒蕪寂寞的(de)“空城(cheng)(cheng)”了。五代(dai)時期(924年)。石(shi)(shi)頭城(cheng)(cheng)上興建(jian)了第一座寺廟(miao)——興教寺,以(yi)(yi)后這(zhe)里(li)就成為寺廟(miao)、書院集中(zhong)(zhong)的(de)風景名勝區(qu)了。直到(dao)今天,它仍(reng)以(yi)(yi)“石(shi)(shi)城(cheng)(cheng)虎踞”的(de)雄(xiong)姿享譽中(zhong)(zhong)外。
據(ju)地(di)質學研究(jiu),這里的(de)(de)巖層(ceng)是距今(jin)大約(yue)(yue)1億年(nian)到7000萬年(nian)前的(de)(de)晚白堊紀(ji)的(de)(de)浦口(kou)(kou)組(zu)地(di)層(ceng), 在清(qing)涼門到草場門之間的(de)(de)城(cheng)墻下面(mian),有(you)一(yi)(yi)塊(kuai)突出的(de)(de)橢圓形石壁,長約(yue)(yue)6米,寬(kuan)3米,因為長年(nian)風化,礫石剝落,坑坑洼(wa)(wa)洼(wa)(wa),斑斑點(dian)點(dian),中(zhong)間還雜有(you)紫黑相間的(de)(de)巖塊(kuai),怪石嶙峋,遠看隱約(yue)(yue)可見耳目口(kou)(kou)鼻,酷似一(yi)(yi)副猙獰的(de)(de)鬼臉(lian)(lian),被稱(cheng)為“鬼臉(lian)(lian)城(cheng)”。南(nan)(nan)京民間中(zhong)有(you)關鬼臉(lian)(lian)城(cheng)的(de)(de)傳說很(hen)多。相傳這塊(kuai)巖石原來(lai)猶如刀削(xue)一(yi)(yi)般,光滑如境。如今(jin)在鬼臉(lian)(lian)城(cheng)西側確有(you)一(yi)(yi)處(chu)清(qing)亮的(de)(de)池塘,從水面(mian)的(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)側可以看到鬼臉(lian)(lian)城(cheng)的(de)(de)倒影,老南(nan)(nan)京人俗(su)稱(cheng)之為“鬼臉(lian)(lian)照鏡子”。
這一神奇(qi)的(de)傳說,吸引(yin)了無數的(de)中外(wai)游人。石頭城遺址已被列為江蘇省重點文物保護單位,成為人們踏青覓翠(cui)、發思(si)古之幽(you)情的(de)好去(qu)處。
南(nan)京石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)城(cheng)基因(yin)就自然山巖鑿(zao)成(cheng),中(zhong)段有(you)(you)(you)幾塊(kuai)蕩紅色砂礫巖因(yin)經古時長江(jiang)水沖刷而凹凸不平(ping),有(you)(you)(you)如(ru)獸(shou)面,故俗稱鬼臉城(cheng)。石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)周長約3000米(mi),南(nan)面開(kai)2門,東面開(kai)1門,西(xi)北因(yin)緊靠長江(jiang),故不設城(cheng)門。當時,石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)為孫吳(wu)水師(shi)的總部,江(jiang)泊(bo)常(chang)有(you)(you)(you)上(shang)千(qian)艘(sou)船(chuan)只。城(cheng)內(nei)(nei)建有(you)(you)(you)石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)倉庫,用來儲存糧食、兵器等物(wu)資(zi)。城(cheng)西(xi)最(zui)高處(chu)(chu)還(huan)建有(you)(you)(you)孫吳(wu)的烽(feng)火臺(tai)。據(ju)說(shuo)一(yi)(yi)旦發現敵(di)情,在烽(feng)火臺(tai)一(yi)(yi)舉烽(feng)火,半日(ri)內(nei)(nei)即可(ke)傳遍長江(jiang)沿(yan)線。石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)地勢險峻,自古就有(you)(you)(you)“石(shi)(shi)(shi)城(cheng)虎踞”之稱。以后(hou)由于長江(jiang)河道逐(zhu)漸西(xi)移,石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)的軍事價值有(you)(you)(you)所減弱。明代朱元璋定都(dou)南(nan)京后(hou),于洪武二年興(xing)建城(cheng)墻,此(ci)處(chu)(chu)石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)便成(cheng)了南(nan)京城(cheng)墻的一(yi)(yi)部分。如(ru)今石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)已是聞名中(zhong)外的歷(li)史古跡,也是南(nan)京重要(yao)的旅(lv)游(you)勝(sheng)地之一(yi)(yi)。
在南(nan)京(jing)石頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)城(cheng)西(xi),景色清幽,有(you)(you)“城(cheng)市(shi)山(shan)林”之稱。清涼山(shan)上,名勝(sheng)古(gu)跡隨處(chu)可(ke)尋,有(you)(you)“駐馬坡”、“南(nan)唐古(gu)井”、“清涼寺”、“崇正書院(yuan)”及“掃葉樓”等。石頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)在清涼山(shan)后,南(nan)北全長(chang)約3000米(mi)。城(cheng)基遺(yi)跡為(wei)赭紅(hong)色,內(nei)有(you)(you)大量(liang)河光石,一般高出地表0.3-0.7米(mi),最高處(chu)為(wei)17米(mi),系自然(ran)山(shan)巖鑿成(cheng)。東(dong)晉義(yi)熙年(nian)間(405-418)加磚累甓,明洪武二年(nian)(1369年(nian))石頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)為(wei)應天府城(cheng)(今南(nan)京(jing))的(de)一部(bu)分(fen)重加修建。交通:乘游(you)4路,6、21、23、60、75、91、302路車(che)可(ke)達。
公園建設
1990年(nian),南(nan)京市在石(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)的舊址上興建了石(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)公園。公園以“石(shi)城(cheng)懷古(gu)”為(wei)(wei)主題(ti),將石(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)的悠久歷史與自然山(shan)水有機結合,將古(gu)代戰場(chang)與現代國防(fang)教(jiao)育融為(wei)(wei)一體,規劃總面積近16.94公頃, 以古(gu)城(cheng)墻為(wei)(wei)軸線,體現歷史文化古(gu)都(dou)的特色。北起清涼(liang)山(shan)體校,南(nan)至清涼(liang)門(men),西臨古(gu)城(cheng)墻,東到(dao)虎踞路。
石(shi)(shi)頭城又稱“鬼(gui)臉(lian)城”,是(shi)三國東吳(wu)時期孫權在(zai)赤壁(bi)(bi)之(zhi)戰后, 于(yu)公元211年將首府由京口(今(jin)鎮(zhen)江)遷至秣(mo)陵(ling)(今(jin)南京),利(li)用清(qing)涼山的(de)天然石(shi)(shi)壁(bi)(bi)建立的(de)軍事要(yao)塞(sai),地勢(shi)險要(yao),氣勢(shi)雄偉,是(shi)歷(li)史滄桑(sang)的(de)實物見(jian)證。站于(yu)此地,最能領(ling)會劉禹錫《西(xi)塞(sai)山懷(huai)古(gu)》和譽(yu)為登臨之(zhi)絕(jue)唱的(de)王安石(shi)(shi)《桂枝香》-金陵(ling)懷(huai)古(gu)詞的(de)意境。“鬼(gui)臉(lian)照(zhao)鏡(jing)子” 是(shi)一(yi)(yi)個在(zai)歷(li)史上即聞(wen)名的(de)景點(dian),因(yin)在(zai)城墻(qiang)(qiang)中部有一(yi)(yi)塊突出(chu)墻(qiang)(qiang)體的(de)橢圓形(xing)石(shi)(shi)壁(bi)(bi),遠看(kan)隱約可(ke)見(jian)耳目(mu)口鼻(bi),酷似一(yi)(yi)副鬼(gui)臉(lian),因(yin)此被稱為“鬼(gui)臉(lian)”,“鬼(gui)臉(lian)” 下的(de)這面水塘” 鏡(jing)” 的(de)面積有1600多平方米。公園(yuan)重修時,著名的(de)燕王河景觀也從(cong)歷(li)史的(de)覆蓋中清(qing)理出(chu)來,重見(jian)天日,成為一(yi)(yi)條兩(liang)岸(an)郁郁蔥蔥的(de)清(qing)流。不論遠觀還是(shi)就近審視,城墻(qiang)(qiang)垂柳,碧水綠樹,都是(shi)一(yi)(yi)方絕(jue)佳(jia)的(de)景致。
石(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)公園(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)劃分為(wei)國(guo)防春曉、石(shi)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)霽雪(xue)和山居(ju)秋瞑三大景區(qu)(qu),設21個景點。石(shi)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)霽雪(xue)區(qu)(qu)位于(yu)公園(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)的(de)西側,北至清(qing)涼山,南至清(qing)涼門,沿古城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻呈(cheng)帶狀分布(bu),是(shi)石(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)公園(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)的(de)精(jing)華所在, 是(shi)金陵四十八景之(zhi)一。而(er)山居(ju)秋瞑區(qu)(qu)在公園(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)東(dong)側的(de)山林(lin)地帶,植(zhi)被濃密,生(sheng)機盎然,留(liu)連其(qi)中(zhong),可感(gan)受(shou)到盛(sheng)唐時(shi)代(dai)著名(ming)(ming)的(de)詩人王維那首著名(ming)(ming)田園(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)詩的(de)意境:空山新(xin)雨(yu)后,天(tian)氣晚(wan)來秋。 明月松間照,清(qing)泉石(shi)上流。竹喧(xuan)歸浣女,蓮動下漁舟。隨意春芳(fang)歇,王孫自可留(liu)。清(qing)涼山和石(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)一帶有“城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)市山林(lin)”之(zhi)美稱,雨(yu)后秋清(qing)氣爽的(de)日(ri)子游(you)覽,當會感(gan)覺名(ming)(ming)不虛傳,不復有元代(dai)薩(sa)都剌《登(deng)石(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)》一詞的(de)凄楚與傷感(gan)。
跨過虎踞路,清涼山公園與之遙相呼應,一(yi)雄渾壯闊,一(yi)寧靜(jing)深沉,互為映襯(chen)。