南(nan)屏山鐘靈毓秀,凈慈寺香煙氤(yin)氳,為(wei)(wei)歷代(dai)文(wen)人(ren)向(xiang)往之處。不(bu)少士(shi)大(da)夫(fu)為(wei)(wei)避世出(chu)塵,常來該寺談禪吟詠,成為(wei)(wei)古代(dai)杭城文(wen)風。還有不(bu)少人(ren)來此(ci)筑(zhu)室隱(yin)居,讀(du)書撰文(wen)。如(ru)元代(dai)的莫維賢(xian)在(zai)寺旁建“南(nan)屏別墅”,明代(dai)的孫一元筑(zhu)室高(gao)士(shi)塢,柴紹炳辟“南(nan)屏書屋”;黃汝亨在(zai)雷(lei)峰塔旁建“寓林”,常常高(gao)朋滿座;著名(ming)文(wen)學家袁宏道曾(ceng)于明萬歷二十八(ba)年(1600年)長期寓居凈慈寺。清時,南(nan)屏常有詩社雅集,也有詩僧參(can)加,此(ci)為(wei)(wei)南(nan)屏古文(wen)化之一大(da)特色。
在(zai)凈(jing)慈(ci)寺(si)門右(you)邊有一(yi)座“南(nan)屏(ping)晚鐘(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)”碑亭(ting)(ting),杭州著名(ming)的西(xi)(xi)湖十景之一(yi)—南(nan)屏(ping)晚鐘(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)就是這里(li)叩響的。凈(jing)慈(ci)寺(si)的鐘(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)聲(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)在(zai)歷史上(shang)久負盛(sheng)名(ming)。唐代詩人張岱(dai)“夜氣(qi)滃(weng)南(nan)屏(ping),輕風薄如紙;鐘(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)聲(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)出(chu)上(shang)方,夜渡空江水”的詩句(ju)就已把(ba)凈(jing)慈(ci)寺(si)鐘(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)聲(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)的美(mei)妙寫(xie)得(de)出(chu)神入境了。明太祖洪武年間(1368一(yi)1398年),鑄了一(yi)口(kou)重約兩萬斤的巨鐘(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong),每日傍(bang)晚,夕陽(yang)西(xi)(xi)下(xia),暝(ming)色蒼茫(mang),鐘(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)聲(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)在(zai)群山碧(bi)空中回蕩(dang),響徹云(yun)霄(xiao)。由于南(nan)屏(ping)山空穴怪(guai)石較(jiao)多,鐘(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)聲(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)經石穴回蕩(dang)互激,鐘(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)聲(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)傳(chuan)播到十多里(li)外。相傳(chuan)康熙皇帝以(yi)目品西(xi)(xi)湖十景,均(jun)廣建(jian)庭閣(ge),也在(zai)凈(jing)慈(ci)寺(si)寺(si)門外建(jian)一(yi)碑亭(ting)(ting),上(shang)刻“南(nan)屏(ping)晚鐘(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)”四字。而西(xi)(xi)湖十景中,南(nan)屏(ping)晚鐘(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)較(jiao)享盛(sheng)名(ming)。可惜(xi)在(zai)清(qing)朝末(mo)年,銅鐘(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)在(zai)戰(zhan)亂中消失,鐘(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)聲(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)沉寂。
直到1984年10月,凈慈寺在日(ri)本佛(fo)教界(jie)的(de)(de)(de)相(xiang)助下,重(zhong)鑄銅鐘(zhong)。1986年11月21日(ri),中日(ri)佛(fo)教界(jie)人士400多人歡聚凈慈寺,舉行了(le)隆重(zhong)的(de)(de)(de)大梵(fan)鐘(zhong)落(luo)成法(fa)會,108記雄渾有力的(de)(de)(de)鐘(zhong)聲(sheng)回蕩(dang)在西湖(hu)上空,絕響百年的(de)(de)(de)南(nan)屏晚鐘(zhong)重(zhong)新鳴起,為祖國美麗(li)的(de)(de)(de)山湖(hu)壯色增輝。這口(kou)銅鐘(zhong)懸掛在凈慈寺重(zhong)建的(de)(de)(de)二層三檐的(de)(de)(de)鐘(zhong)樓(lou)內,高3.6米,直徑2.3米,重(zhong)一萬(wan)公斤。造型古樸,外(wai)面鑄有《大乘妙法(fa)蓮華經》,6.8萬(wan)余(yu)字,鑄造精致,每(mei)敲一下,余(yu)音達2分(fen)鐘(zhong)之久,余(yu)音裊(niao)裊(niao),十分(fen)渾重(zhong)動聽(ting)。
寺(si)(si)前(qian)有(you)雷(lei)峰(feng)古(gu)塔,建于南(nan)屏(ping)(ping)支脈(mo)夕(xi)照(zhao)(zhao)山,古(gu)時(shi)有(you)雷(lei)姓居此(ci),故(gu)稱雷(lei)峰(feng),吳越王妃黃氏建塔于此(ci),每當夕(xi)陽西墜,塔影橫空,自成(cheng)一景。故(gu)宋代(dai)詩人(ren)(ren)(ren)林逋有(you)“夕(xi)照(zhao)(zhao)前(qian)村見(jian)”之(zhi)句(ju),康熙玄燁(ye)、乾隆(long)弘(hong)歷均題名(ming)(ming)“雷(lei)峰(feng)西照(zhao)(zhao)”,后人(ren)(ren)(ren)仍復(fu)原(yuan)名(ming)(ming)為(wei)“雷(lei)峰(feng)夕(xi)照(zhao)(zhao)”。該塔被毀(hui)前(qian)原(yuan)為(wei)重檐飛棟(dong),窗戶洞達。由此(ci),“南(nan)屏(ping)(ping)晚鐘”,“雷(lei)峰(feng)夕(xi)照(zhao)(zhao)”,成(cheng)為(wei)凈(jing)慈寺(si)(si)兩大勝(sheng)(sheng)景,又為(wei)名(ming)(ming)剎(cha)增輝。“南(nan)山凈(jing)慈,北(bei)山靈(ling)隱”,為(wei)東南(nan)兩大名(ming)(ming)剎(cha),古(gu)人(ren)(ren)(ren)稱:“兩峰(feng)勝(sheng)(sheng)概山僧得,好為(wei)南(nan)屏(ping)(ping)一寫圖(tu)”。歷代(dai)題詠作畫的(de)難(nan)以計數。凈(jing)慈寺(si)(si)由五代(dai)吳越王創建。由于四代(dai)錢王代(dai)代(dai)崇佛(fo),故(gu)凈(jing)慈寺(si)(si)前(qian)后左右佛(fo)剎(cha)林立,成(cheng)為(wei)杭(hang)城(cheng)較大的(de)寺(si)(si)院(yuan)群。在雷(lei)峰(feng)塔下有(you)塔院(yuan)小昭(zhao)慶(qing)寺(si)(si),塔西有(you)惠昭(zhao)寺(si)(si),峰(feng)北(bei)有(you)瑞相(xiang)院(yuan)(即(ji)寶(bao)相(xiang)寺(si)(si)),寺(si)(si)西有(you)善慶(qing)寺(si)(si)(即(ji)興(xing)教(jiao)寺(si)(si)),并有(you)彌陀(tuo)寺(si)(si)、顯應(ying)寺(si)(si)、天王寺(si)(si)、安吳寺(si)(si)、法性寺(si)(si)、廣教(jiao)寺(si)(si)、空律寺(si)(si)等(deng)環列。晨(chen)鐘暮鼓,梵唄(bai)相(xiang)聞;故(gu)時(shi)人(ren)(ren)(ren)稱南(nan)屏(ping)(ping)山為(wei)“佛(fo)國山”。
凈慈寺依山而(er)建,背靠翠(cui)巒,面對碧波,梵宇層疊(die),宏偉莊嚴(yan)。古(gu)時寺后山坡有蓮花洞、少林巖,右為石(shi)佛(fo)洞,東南(nan)有歡喜巖。
蓮花(hua)洞無(wu)頂,片片石(shi)芽從坡(po)地升起,蔚成巨(ju)型(xing)石(shi)蓮。志書所(suo)載開山祖(zu)永明(ming)延(yan)壽每晚上山坐禪稱念(nian)"阿彌(mi)陀凈慈寺佛",即在蓮花(hua)洞。相傳因永明(ming)大師在此吟誦《蓮花(hua)經》,上天仙女(nv)來此散花(hua),故名蓮花(hua)洞,又(you)名雨(yu)花(hua)臺。明(ming)代司禮太監孫隆(long)曾在崖(ya)上鐫刻(ke)"花(hua)雨(yu)繽(bin)紛"題字,惜已漫漶難見。
洞前(qian)舊有(you)"居(ju)然亭",取意于明(ming)代紹興太守洪玉方詩句:"一日茅(mao)棟成,居(ju)然我泉白"。此處歷來是文人(ren)墨客(ke)觀景吟誦(song)的(de)勝地(di),清時古亭廢圮成為竹園。蓮花洞上有(you)奇巖(yan)隆起,摩崖上鐫刻有(you)"少(shao)林(lin)"兩(liang)字(zi),故稱少(shao)林(lin)巖(yan)。
蓮花洞右有(you)(you)石(shi)(shi)佛(fo)(fo)洞,平地兩石(shi)(shi)屹立形如(ru)佛(fo)(fo)龕,內鐫有(you)(you)石(shi)(shi)佛(fo)(fo)三(san)尊。左壁有(you)(you)明代浙江總督胡宗憲題(ti)刻(ke)"寰中(zhong)天室"四(si)字,右壁亦有(you)(you)摩崖(ya)題(ti)刻(ke),為元(yuan)代至正(zheng)四(si)年(1344年)所鐫,字跡(ji)已模糊(hu)難(nan)辨(bian)。石(shi)(shi)佛(fo)(fo)洞東南(nan)有(you)(you)兩石(shi)(shi)相對稱(cheng)"歡喜巖"。古時曾鐫有(you)(you)三(san)佛(fo)(fo),現已不存。此處石(shi)(shi)景袁(yuan)宏道稱(cheng)之(zhi)(zhi)為"凈慈(ci)之(zhi)(zhi)絕勝處"。
道容在凈(jing)慈(ci)寺(si)(si)先塑十六應真像(xiang),再塑五百(bai)羅(luo)(luo)漢(han),據說塑像(xiang)都出(chu)一僧(seng)之(zhi)手(shou),而(er)儀貌各異,神氣如(ru)生(sheng),像(xiang)塑成而(er)僧(seng)化去;所建(jian)田(tian)字殿,將五百(bai)羅(luo)(luo)漢(han)分四層背座,尊尊異形(xing),位置曲(qu)折,屈指(zhi)多迷,為(wei)一大(da)奇觀。道容建(jian)田(tian)字殿為(wei)江南(nan)佛寺(si)(si)之(zhi)首(shou)創,田(tian)字形(xing)平面既能(neng)供奉眾羅(luo)(luo)漢(han)像(xiang),且都面向信眾,采光(guang)較好,便于參拜禮佛,這是佛教中(zhong)的(de)特(te)殊建(jian)筑(zhu)。節度使(shi)曹勛為(wei)此撰記稱該寺(si)(si)重建(jian)后,“金(jin)碧輝煌,華梵絢(xuan)麗(li),行(xing)都道場之(zhi)盛,特(te)冠諸山”。紹興九年(nian)(1139年(nian)),宋高宗(zong)大(da)赦天下,為(wei)表示(shi)奉祀宋徽宗(zong),特(te)將凈(jing)慈(ci)禪寺(si)(si)改名為(wei)“報恩(en)光(guang)孝禪寺(si)(si)”,并(bing)將惠照寺(si)(si)并(bing)入。紹興十九年(nian)(1149年(nian))十月,又改稱為(wei)“凈(jing)慈(ci)報恩(en)光(guang)孝禪寺(si)(si)”(簡稱凈(jing)慈(ci)寺(si)(si)),詔命道容住持(chi)該寺(si)(si),并(bing)賜予經藏(zang)。繼道容住持(chi)凈(jing)慈(ci)寺(si)(si)的(de)肯(ken)(ken)堂(tang)(tang)彥充曾(ceng)師事廬(lu)山東林寺(si)(si)僧(seng)顏,學凈(jing)土法(fa)門(men)。杭州名僧(seng)癡絕道沖、無準師范等(deng)均師從肯(ken)(ken)堂(tang)(tang)學法(fa),得以傳(chuan)承(cheng)。
南(nan)宋時(shi)凈(jing)慈寺幾(ji)經毀建。淳熙(xi)十四年(nian)(1187年(nian)),朝廷起用退(tui)(tui)谷(gu)義(yi)云禪師(shi),命其在凈(jing)慈寺說法并主持寺務(wu),杭城(cheng)士民都很崇敬,愛國詩人(ren)陸游(you)贊他為“才能絕人(ren)”。一(yi)日,退(tui)(tui)谷(gu)義(yi)云率(lv)眾(zhong)僧入城(cheng),當晚火起,凈(jing)慈寺盡毀,據陸游(you)《凈(jing)慈退(tui)(tui)谷(gu)義(yi)云禪師(shi)塔銘》所記:是夕寺焚無遺宇,比師(shi)歸,獨山門巋(kui)然瓦(wa)礫中,師(shi)不動容曰(yue),成壞相(xiang)尋,亦豈有常今日之壞,安知不為四眾(zhong)作福之地(di)哉(zai)。
乘坐12、K12路,在絲(si)綢博物館站下車;
乘坐(zuo)K102路,在(zai)萬松嶺(ling)站下車;
乘坐514、K514路(lu)區(qu)間(jian)(或K504路(lu)),在凈寺站下(xia)車;
乘坐822、K822路,在(zai)凈(jing)寺站下車(che)。
凈(jing)慈(ci)寺近(jin)城臨湖,踞南山之勝。宋時為其鼎盛(sheng)時期,人文(wen)薈萃(cui),儒釋交融,與靈隱寺相埒(lie)。南宋時被評(ping)為江南禪院“五山”之一(yi)。
北宋(song)時,凈(jing)(jing)慈寺名(ming)僧接踵,大德輩出,有(you)的成(cheng)為(wei)佛教禪(chan)宗(zong)(zong)一代宗(zong)(zong)師(shi)。宋(song)初有(you)“兩壽(shou)(shou)(shou)”,即延壽(shou)(shou)(shou)和洪壽(shou)(shou)(shou),均師(shi)法于(yu)德韶,興教于(yu)南屏,其佛學教觀盛行于(yu)當時。繼“兩壽(shou)(shou)(shou)”之后(hou),又有(you)圓(yuan)照(zhao)宗(zong)(zong)本(ben)(ben)(ben)和大通(tong)善(shan)(shan)本(ben)(ben)(ben)相繼住(zhu)持(chi)凈(jing)(jing)慈寺,世(shi)稱之為(wei)“大小(xiao)本(ben)(ben)(ben)”。他們都曾(ceng)遍訪名(ming)山,弘揚禪(chan)宗(zong)(zong)佛法,而且都先后(hou)成(cheng)為(wei)北宋(song)京都開封的高僧。宋(song)神宗(zong)(zong)曾(ceng)贊(zan)圓(yuan)照(zhao)宗(zong)(zong)本(ben)(ben)(ben)為(wei)“真(zhen)福慧(hui)(hui)僧”、“僧中(zhong)寶”,要他“方(fang)興禪(chan)宗(zong)(zong),宜(yi)善(shan)(shan)開導”。大通(tong)善(shan)(shan)本(ben)(ben)(ben)為(wei)漢(han)董(dong)仲舒后(hou)裔,也被尊為(wei)“大通(tong)師(shi)”。正(zheng)是由于(yu)這些(xie)高僧住(zhu)持(chi),才(cai)使“名(ming)藍有(you)光”;受(shou)到宋(song)王朝的重視。北宋(song)統一中(zhong)國后(hou),宋(song)太宗(zong)(zong)于(yu)太平興國二年(977年)賜慧(hui)(hui)日永明院為(wei)“壽(shou)(shou)(shou)寧禪(chan)院”,并重加(jia)修葺(qi)。