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簡介

玄(xuan)妙觀(guan)是位于(yu)中國東南部(bu)著名(ming)旅游(you)城市蘇州的(de)著名(ming)道(dao)觀(guan)，創建(jian)于(yu)公元276年(nian)，最初名(ming)叫“真慶道(dao)院”，后來曾改稱為“開元宮”、“天慶觀(guan)”。公元1295年(nian)元朝(chao)皇帝(di)下令改為玄(xuan)妙觀(guan)。玄(xuan)妙觀(guan)至今(jin)已有1700多年(nian)的(de)歷史(shi)，所以(yi)被稱為“江南第(di)一古觀(guan)”。

玄妙觀坐(zuo)落在蘇州(zhou)古(gu)城中心(xin)，其主殿三(san)清殿建成于南(nan)宋(song)年(nian)間(jian)，是蘇州(zhou)僅存的(de)一(yi)座南(nan)宋(song)木(mu)構殿宇式建筑，歷史(shi)(shi)悠(you)久、規模宏(hong)偉，在中國建筑史(shi)(shi)上具有重(zhong)要的(de)歷史(shi)(shi)價值，1982年(nian)被列為全國重(zhong)點文物保護單(dan)位(wei)。

現玄(xuan)妙觀進行了修復整(zheng)治，有殿(dian)(dian)堂(tang)七座，中(zhong)(zhong)路(lu)有正山門、三(san)清殿(dian)(dian)，東路(lu)有文(wen)昌殿(dian)(dian)、斗姆閣、壽(shou)星殿(dian)(dian)，西路(lu)有雷(lei)尊殿(dian)(dian)、財神殿(dian)(dian)。觀內有很(hen)多珍貴的(de)文(wen)物遺(yi)跡(ji)，道教文(wen)化內涵深厚,是(shi)中(zhong)(zhong)國少有的(de)完整(zheng)道觀建筑群，其中(zhong)(zhong)三(san)清殿(dian)(dian)現仍保(bao)留(liu)著宋代建筑的(de)風貌與特點。

玄妙(miao)觀(guan)歷史上曾是(shi)蘇(su)州(zhou)宗教文化中心，現(xian)是(shi)蘇(su)州(zhou)地(di)區道(dao)教活動(dong)的(de)主要場所。由于優(you)越的(de)地(di)理位置，眾多的(de)文物古跡(ji)以及豐(feng)富的(de)道(dao)教文化內(nei)涵，玄妙(miao)觀(guan)已成為蘇(su)州(zhou)市著名的(de)旅游景點(dian)之一。

歷史沿革

蘇州香火最盛的地(di)方并非佛(fo)教寺廟，而是道教的玄妙(miao)觀。

玄妙(miao)觀始建于西晉，已(yi)有1700余年的(de)(de)歷史。觀內建于南(nan)宋的(de)(de)三清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)是江南(nan)最大的(de)(de)木構(gou)古建筑。殿(dian)內供奉的(de)(de)高達17米(mi)的(de)(de)三清(qing)(qing)（上清(qing)(qing)、玉清(qing)(qing)、太(tai)清(qing)(qing)）塑(su)像，堪稱宋代雕(diao)塑(su)的(de)(de)上佳之(zhi)作。玄妙(miao)觀中現存有唐吳(wu)道子畫老君(jun)像、玄宗贊、顏(yan)真卿(qing)書法等碑刻，彌足珍貴．

除(chu)三(san)清(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)和正(zheng)山門(men)外，玄(xuan)妙觀還(huan)有歷代建成的副殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)和二十四座配殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，從東腳門(men)依次為：神(shen)州(zhou)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元)、太陽宮(gong)(清(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing))、天醫(yi)藥王殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋)、真官殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元)、天后(hou)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing))、文昌(chang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing))、祖師殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元)、斗姆閣(ge)(清(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing) )、火神(shen)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing))、三(san)茅殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋)、機房殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(明)、關帝殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元)、東岳殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋)、痘司殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋)等(deng)十四處，西(xi)腳門(men)配殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)依次為：雷尊殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元)、壽星(xing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋)、水府殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing))等(deng)七處。三(san)清(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)后(hou)為彌羅寶(bao)閣(ge)，再后(hou)面是(shi)蓑(suo)衣(yi)真人殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋)、肝胃殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing))、薩祖方丈殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)。各殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)所(suo)供神(shen)像大都出自神(shen)話傳(chuan)說，如太陽神(shen)、雷神(shen)、火神(shen)、關帝、文曲(qu)星(xing)、灶(zao)神(shen)、土地、八仙(xian)、壽星(xing)、觀音等(deng)，體現(xian)了(le)蘇州(zhou)地方文化特(te)色和民間信(xin)仰的色彩，曾(ceng)是(shi)城鄉老(lao)百姓精神(shen)寄(ji)托和休閑娛樂的去所(suo)。從康熙十三(san)年(nian)(公元674年(nian))玄(xuan)妙觀建筑(zhu)(zhu)群圖上(shang)可以(yi)看出東至(zhi)洙泗巷，西(xi)臨大成坊，北至(zhi)舊學前河，南面有黃色照墻(qiang)橫亙正(zheng)山門(men)兩側，整(zheng)個建筑(zhu)(zhu)群十分(fen)壯觀。彈丸之地集中了(le)宋元明清(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)歷代殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇，真可謂(wei)是(shi)一座古典建筑(zhu)(zhu)的博物館。

據(ju)道光《元(yuan)妙觀(guan)(guan)志》圖(tu)載，清代玄(xuan)妙觀(guan)(guan)盛(sheng)時占地5.5萬平方米，共有30多座(zuo)殿(dian)(dian)閣(ge)(ge)。中軸線(xian)(xian)上(shang)自(zi)南而北依次為正山(shan)(shan)門、三(san)清殿(dian)(dian)、彌羅(luo)寶閣(ge)(ge)，其他殿(dian)(dian)閣(ge)(ge)分布在(zai)25處(chu)自(zi)成院落(luo)的(de)“子(zi)院”內，如眾星拱月般從東、西(xi)、北三(san)面(mian)圍繞(rao)著(zhu)中軸線(xian)(xian)上(shang)的(de)主要殿(dian)(dian)閣(ge)(ge)，形成一片巍峨壯麗(li)的(de)建筑群(qun)。但自(zi)咸豐、同治(zhi)之(zhi)際(ji)遭受(shou)戰火后(hou)，即漸趨衰落(luo)，未能恢復舊(jiu)觀(guan)(guan)，宏偉的(de)彌羅(luo)寶閣(ge)(ge)也于民國元(yuan)年(1912)8月28日失火焚(fen)毀(hui)。1956年，整修三(san)清殿(dian)(dian)、正山(shan)(shan)門及東、西(xi)諸(zhu)殿(dian)(dian)門墻，清理廣庭。同年，玄(xuan)妙觀(guan)(guan)三(san)清殿(dian)(dian)被(bei)(bei)列為省文物(wu)保護(hu)單(dan)位。1966年后(hou)遭受(shou)損壞，1981年再修三(san)清殿(dian)(dian)及正山(shan)(shan)門。1982年，玄(xuan)妙觀(guan)(guan)三(san)清殿(dian)(dian)被(bei)(bei)列為全國重點文物(wu)保護(hu)單(dan)位。

蘇州市政府又(you)連續撥巨款重(zhong)修玄(xuan)妙觀正(zheng)山(shan)門和三清殿，殿內神像(xiang)重(zhong)塑金身，已于1999年元月開光(guang)慶典。

玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)多(duo)數殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇各(ge)(ge)有(you)(you)山門(men)(men)、照墻，觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)內(nei)(nei)廣場商販與百戲雜陳。觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)內(nei)(nei)方丈(zhang)(zhang)(zhang)(zhang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)為穹窿(long)山上(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)下(xia)院，直至民(min)國初，該(gai)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)振法堂內(nei)(nei)高懸戒規(gui)，內(nei)(nei)容主(zhu)要有(you)(you)不準娶家室(shi)、不準目無師長(chang)等。違(wei)反(fan)戒規(gui)者(zhe)，輕則(ze)重(zhong)責(ze)、重(zhong)則(ze)開(kai)除(chu)(俗稱(cheng)“貼革(ge)條”)。方丈(zhang)(zhang)(zhang)(zhang)為一(yi)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)之(zhi)主(zhu)。民(min)國元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)年(nian)(nian)(nian)8月(yue)28日(ri)(ri)，大(da)廈三層、飛甍隆棟的彌羅寶(bao)閣(ge)(ge)失(shi)(shi)火(huo)(huo)(huo)焚毀，內(nei)(nei)僅金身(shen)神(shen)像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)就有(you)(you)380余尊(zun)(zun)，閶門(men)(men)外(wai)十房(fang)(fang)莊淘沙戶(hu)曾擬(ni)出資1萬(wan)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)承包(bao)清(qing)除(chu)火(huo)(huo)(huo)場垃圾。方丈(zhang)(zhang)(zhang)(zhang)倪仰云因失(shi)(shi)火(huo)(huo)(huo)被(bei)提出公(gong)訴并辭職，自此方丈(zhang)(zhang)(zhang)(zhang)威信(xin)大(da)降，戒規(gui)松弛。方丈(zhang)(zhang)(zhang)(zhang)管2房(fang)(fang)、6殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)。至北伐(fa)時，方丈(zhang)(zhang)(zhang)(zhang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)還有(you)(you)五(wu)六處山房(fang)(fang)，近百間(jian)(jian)屋(wu)。各(ge)(ge)房(fang)(fang)輪(lun)流執管殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)事，有(you)(you)帳房(fang)(fang)、文書及(ji)(ji)香(xiang)(xiang)工10余人(ren)，廚師2人(ren)。其余12房(fang)(fang)分掌一(yi)至二、三座殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，實(shi)各(ge)(ge)為一(yi)獨立道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)院。22年(nian)(nian)(nian)太(tai)陽宮(gong)住持許鶴梅曾去(qu)(qu)上(shang)海(hai)合伙開(kai)設玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)分院，一(yi)年(nian)(nian)(nian)后因生(sheng)意不好而收歇。20年(nian)(nian)(nian)代至抗(kang)日(ri)(ri)戰爭中(zhong)(zhong)，祖師、灶君、八仙、壽(shou)星、水府、關帝(di)諸殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)相繼(ji)圮廢(fei)、改(gai)建(jian)或被(bei)日(ri)(ri)機轟(hong)炸(zha)震坍。三清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)內(nei)(nei)擺(bai)滿字畫攤，屋(wu)面(mian)被(bei)敵偽人(ren)員捉(zhuo)鴿子踐踏得嚴重(zhong)漏雨(yu)。機房(fang)(fang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)曾開(kai)設賭場，長(chang)期出租(zu)和(he)被(bei)典賣的有(you)(you)神(shen)州殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)和(he)痘司殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)。民(min)國6、32、33和(he)35年(nian)(nian)(nian)曾先后修葺(qi)東(dong)岳(yue)、真(zhen)(zhen)官、雷尊(zun)(zun)和(he)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)音(yin)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，但其余諸殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)日(ri)(ri)趨(qu)破(po)敗(bai)。近解放時正山門(men)(men)淪為銀(yin)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)市(shi)場。至1949年(nian)(nian)(nian)存正山門(men)(men)及(ji)(ji)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)17座(即三清(qing)、方丈(zhang)(zhang)(zhang)(zhang)、真(zhen)(zhen)人(ren)、肝胃、藥(yao)王(wang)、東(dong)岳(yue)、火(huo)(huo)(huo)神(shen)、三茅、天后、真(zhen)(zhen)官、文昌、機房(fang)(fang)、三官、雷尊(zun)(zun)、觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)音(yin)諸殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)及(ji)(ji)斗姆閣(ge)(ge)、太(tai)陽宮(gong))。1952年(nian)(nian)(nian)有(you)(you)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)士33人(ren)，家屬(shu)83人(ren)，香(xiang)(xiang)工6人(ren)；有(you)(you)屋(wu)523.5間(jian)(jian)，內(nei)(nei)自用200間(jian)(jian)，余多(duo)出租(zu)。1956年(nian)(nian)(nian)統計(ji)，占地51.72畝，神(shen)像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)519尊(zun)(zun)，同年(nian)(nian)(nian)將(jiang)廣場周圍(wei)600余戶(hu)店攤居(ju)民(min)遷(qian)出，斗姆閣(ge)(ge)改(gai)建(jian)為書畫店。1957年(nian)(nian)(nian)全觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)收入：房(fang)(fang)地租(zu)454元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)，香(xiang)(xiang)火(huo)(huo)(huo)94元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)，法事29元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)，其他343元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)。1958年(nian)(nian)(nian)11月(yue)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)教學習會直接(jie)掌管三清(qing)、星宿(su)(原(yuan)屬(shu)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)音(yin)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，1956年(nian)(nian)(nian)將(jiang)在清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)花甲星宿(su)塑(su)像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)遷(qian)入，故名)兩(liang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)及(ji)(ji)雷尊(zun)(zun)、火(huo)(huo)(huo)神(shen)的大(da)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)部(bu)分，余殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)除(chu)留少量(liang)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)士自住外(wai)，都交給房(fang)(fang)管局管理，13道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)房(fang)(fang)至此消失(shi)(shi)。1959年(nian)(nian)(nian)東(dong)岳(yue)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)焚毀。該(gai)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)內(nei)(nei)的五(wu)岳(yue)樓(lou)，構(gou)建(jian)工巧(qiao)，四(si)面(mian)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇，中(zhong)(zhong)峙一(yi)樓(lou)，“大(da)躍進”中(zhong)(zhong)全殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)拆去(qu)(qu)。1964年(nian)(nian)(nian)市(shi)政府又撥款整修，三清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)與正山門(men)(men)油漆一(yi)新，廣場中(zhong)(zhong)遍植綠樹草(cao)茵。“文化(hua)大(da)革(ge)命”起，除(chu)三清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)神(shen)像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)幸獲保存(“玉清(qing)”神(shen)像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)的頭部(bu)被(bei)砍)外(wai)，其余神(shen)像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)、道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)經、科書被(bei)焚燒數晝夜(ye)，銅像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)8尊(zun)(zun)亦被(bei)毀，三清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)一(yi)度(du)改(gai)為收租(zu)院泥塑(su)展覽會，兩(liang)廊各(ge)(ge)配殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)在 60～70年(nian)(nian)(nian)代陸續(xu)改(gai)作商店、倉庫、菜場。

其(qi)間失(shi)去的(de)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)宇(yu)分別為(wei)彌(mi)羅寶閣，1912年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)失(shi)火焚毀，原(yuan)地改(gai)建中山(shan)堂；灶君(jun)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，1917年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)出借(jie)給(gei)同仁(ren)救火會(hui)，1930年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)被(bei)會(hui)擅自拆(chai)除(chu)(chu)改(gai)建，后為(wei)勞保(bao)用(yong)(yong)品商(shang)店(dian)；太陽宮，1914年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)為(wei)吳縣(xian)黃(huang)天源(yuan)糕團(tuan)(tuan)店(dian)門(men)市部；東岳(yue)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，1922年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)出租給(gei)昆劇業余劇團(tuan)(tuan)，1959年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)東岳(yue)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)失(shi)火燒毀，1961年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)該殿(dian)(dian)(dian)山(shan)門(men)及(ji)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)址由影(ying)劇公(gong)(gong)司(si)使用(yong)(yong)；斗姆閣，解(jie)放前為(wei)攤販公(gong)(gong)會(hui)使用(yong)(yong)，抗戰勝利后被(bei)典賣給(gei)居(ju)(ju)(ju)民(min)，現(xian)為(wei)民(min)居(ju)(ju)(ju)；祖師殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，1937年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)蘇州淪(lun)陷時毀，現(xian)為(wei)輕工門(men)市部；八(ba)仙殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，1931年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)坍(tan)毀，現(xian)為(wei)菜場；三官殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，1931年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)借(jie)給(gei)春苑茶館(guan)，現(xian)為(wei)茶場；水府殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，1931年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)造國貨公(gong)(gong)司(si)時，將北(bei)局觀前菜場遷移(yi)至此，殿(dian)(dian)(dian)被(bei)拆(chai)掉；關帝殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，1937年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)日機轟炸(zha)被(bei)震坍(tan)，現(xian)為(wei)花(hua)木盆(pen)景公(gong)(gong)司(si)；痘司(si)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，30年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)代(dai)被(bei)典押后成為(wei)民(min)居(ju)(ju)(ju)。今仍屬道教使用(yong)(yong)的(de)除(chu)(chu)正山(shan)門(men)、三清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)外，尚有(you)火神殿(dian)(dian)(dian)、財神殿(dian)(dian)(dian)、星宿殿(dian)(dian)(dian)、雷尊殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，其(qi)余的(de)則后來又(you)被(bei)有(you)關單位占(zhan)用(yong)(yong)或拆(chai)除(chu)(chu)。

玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)觀內文(wen)(wen)化積淀深(shen)厚，民間傳說(shuo)動人，舊有十(shi)八景之說(shuo)，分別為元(yuan)趙孟頫所書玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)觀重(zhong)修山門碑、麒麟(lin)照墻(qiang)、朝北玄(xuan)(xuan)帝銅殿、六角亭、釘釘石(shi)欄桿、一(yi)步三(san)條橋(qiao)、無字(zi)碑、海星壇、一(yi)人弄(nong)、楊芝畫(hua)、運木古井(jing)、妙(miao)一(yi)統(tong)元(yuan)匾額、靠天吃飯圖碑，如今十(shi)八景中(zhong)還(huan)保存九(jiu)處。玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)觀文(wen)(wen)物中(zhong)著(zhu)名的還(huan)有歷代碑刻，有老子像(xiang)碑、永禁機匠叫歇碑等等計(ji)有八十(shi)一(yi)塊。除部分收藏在(zai)文(wen)(wen)廟(miao)外，還(huan)余下不少(shao)成為碑廊，現藏在(zai)輕工門市部夾弄(nong)內，歷劫不滅，彌足珍貴。

玄妙觀值得一提(ti)的(de)(de)還有正山(shan)門(men)八字(zi)照墻，當年為此還掀起(qi)過一場軒(xuan)然(ran)大波。照墻前原有一排(pai)平屋(wu)(wu)，有七、八家商鋪，1930年觀前街拓寬，影響這些商鋪，德記地產公司出面(mian)向玄妙觀方(fang)丈顏(yan)品笙(sheng)協商拆(chai)除照墻，租用兩(liang)側地基，搭(da)屋(wu)(wu)經(jing)商，條件是訂約十五年，付給押金一萬元(yuan)。此舉一出，引起(qi)地方(fang)人(ren)士反對，形成(cheng)“保(bao)古派”與(yu)“保(bao)商派”之爭，后經(jing)江蘇省建設廳批準，正山(shan)門(men)兩(liang)端建起(qi)了與(yu)玄妙觀極不協調的(de)(de)三層(ceng)樓房，道觀古樸肅穆的(de)(de)風貌從此不復再現(xian)。

玄妙觀三清殿之(zhi)后，原有一(yi)座始建于明正統三年(nian)(1438)的(de)彌羅(luo)寶(bao)閣(ge)。閣(ge)高3層(ceng)(ceng)，闊9間，飛檐翹角，高聳云天，十(shi)分壯觀。所供神(shen)像(xiang)，上層(ceng)(ceng)是(shi)萬(wan)皇帝主，左右配(pei)祀28星宿；底(di)層(ceng)(ceng)是(shi)萬(wan)地帝主，左右配(pei)祀60花甲星宿。露臺石(shi)(shi)刻(ke)尤稱珍貴，轉角處嵌有畫(hua)像(xiang)石(shi)(shi)，一(yi)刻(ke)□爵祿(lu)來同像(xiang)，一(yi)刻(ke)掛印封侯像(xiang)，另一(yi)面刻(ke)有八(ba)蠻進寶(bao)圖。露臺扶(fu)欄亦有精美石(shi)(shi)雕，古氣磅礴，與山東武梁祠、郭巨(ju)墓漢畫(hua)石(shi)(shi)刻(ke)，神(shen)態逼肖，當(dang)為晉寧道院(yuan)或唐開元宮(gong)之(zhi)舊物。如此一(yi)座堪稱蘇州樓(lou)閣(ge)之(zhi)最(zui)的(de)古建筑，卻不(bu)幸毀(hui)于民(min)國元年(nian)(1912)8月(yue)28日晚(wan)的(de)一(yi)場至今(jin)原因(yin)不(bu)明的(de)大火之(zhi)中。

葉圣陶在(zai)失(shi)火當日(ri)(ri)(ri)日(ri)(ri)(ri)記(ji)中(zhong)記(ji)云(yun)：“入夜(ye)，紅(hong)光燭天(tian)(tian)，人聲(sheng)喧沓，開門(men)而(er)望之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)，在(zai)余家(jia)(jia)西北面，繼而(er)鑼聲(sheng)四應矣。后知燒去者(zhe)為(wei)(wei)觀(guan)里(li)彌羅(luo)寶閣。此閣年(nian)代(dai)極古，工程至鉅且(qie)(qie)精。偌(ruo)大建(jian)筑物付之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)一(yi)炬，殊可惜(xi)，且(qie)(qie)守者(zhe)止一(yi)二人，石柱堅墻何(he)致起火？即著火亦何(he)致全毀？一(yi)般(ban)迷信家(jia)(jia)恐(kong)又(you)將造出許多(duo)神(shen)話也(ye)。”翌(yi)日(ri)(ri)(ri)葉至現(xian)場(chang)察看(kan)后于(yu)日(ri)(ri)(ri)記(ji)中(zhong)寫道：“晨(chen)至頡(jie)剛(gang)處，幾伊(yi)亦來，乃偕赴觀(guan)里(li)觀(guan)火場(chang)劫場(chang)。可憐莊嚴宮殿只剩碎瓦殘(can)灰，神(shen)鬼威力果何(he)在(zai)哉！亦可稍(shao)示(shi)迷信家(jia)(jia)矣。然(ran)觀(guan)里(li)為(wei)(wei)吳(wu)中(zhong)名(ming)勝，遠道來游者(zhe)至多(duo)，故(gu)觀(guan)里(li)商業亦為(wei)(wei)蘇(su)地冠，從此或將冷落矣。入訪詢起火原由，亦云(yun)不可得知，徒(tu)知先有(you)(you)火在(zai)第二層，而(er)第二層樓(lou)則(ze)常閉者(zhe)也(ye)。”又(you)圣昌(chang)熾《緣督廬日(ri)(ri)(ri)記(ji)》壬子年(nian)七月十(shi)六日(ri)(ri)(ri)記(ji)云(yun)：“晚餐正陳，陡聞(wen)樓(lou)上驚呼聲(sheng)，一(yi)舉首則(ze)霄(xiao)半(ban)有(you)(you)光煜(yu)然(ran)，墻壁窗牖皆如倒(dao)景反射，再視則(ze)紅(hong)火燭天(tian)(tian)矣。亟登樓(lou)視之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)，白(bai)煙蓬蓬而(er)起，火星飛爆，如萬弩之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)齊發，寂無警笛耳輪，但聞(wen)膈膊聲(sheng)。自夜(ye)七鐘(zhong)(zhong)半(ban)，焚至八鐘(zhong)(zhong)半(ban)始熄。”偌(ruo)大一(yi)座樓(lou)閣化為(wei)(wei)灰燼。是失(shi)火？還是縱火？至今(jin)仍(reng)是謎。

中山堂即(ji)在彌羅寶閣原(yuan)址建(jian)造，現為影(ying)劇公(gong)司占用(yong)。

主要景點

玄妙觀

玄妙(miao)觀三清殿于(yu)1982年(nian)2月列為全國重點文物(wu)保護單位。

玄妙(miao)觀(guan)極(ji)盛(sheng)時有殿(dian)(dian)宇30余座(zuo)，是當時全(quan)國最大(da)的(de)(de)道(dao)觀(guan)。現有山門、主(zhu)殿(dian)(dian)（三清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)）、副殿(dian)(dian)（彌羅寶閣）及21座(zuo)配殿(dian)(dian)。山門雄偉高聳，上(shang)懸康熙帝御筆(bi)賜額“圓妙(miao)觀(guan)”。南宋(song)(song)(song)淳熙六(liu)年（1179年）重建(jian)的(de)(de)主(zhu)殿(dian)(dian)三清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)面(mian)闊9間，進(jin)深6間，高約30米，建(jian)筑面(mian)積(ji)1125平方米，重檐歇山，巍(wei)峨壯麗，是江南一(yi)帶現存(cun)最大(da)的(de)(de)宋(song)(song)(song)代(dai)木(mu)構建(jian)筑。殿(dian)(dian)中(zhong)須彌座(zuo)上(shang)供高17米泥塑貼金的(de)(de)3尊(zun)神(shen)像(xiang)，正中(zhong)是元(yuan)始天(tian)尊(zun)，兩(liang)(liang)旁是靈寶天(tian)尊(zun)和(he)道(dao)德天(tian)尊(zun)，俗稱(cheng)三清(qing)。神(shen)像(xiang) 高大(da)莊嚴，是宋(song)(song)(song)代(dai)道(dao)教塑像(xiang)中(zhong)的(de)(de)上(shang)品。三清(qing)中(zhong)道(dao)德天(tian)尊(zun)又(you)稱(cheng)太上(shang) 老(lao)君，傳(chuan)為(wei)老(lao)子李耳(er)。其像(xiang)座(zuo)有老(lao)君像(xiang)石(shi)刻(ke)，為(wei)唐吳道(dao)子繪像(xiang)，唐玄宗(zong)題贊，顏(yan)真(zhen)卿(qing)書，由宋(song)(song)(song)代(dai)刻(ke)石(shi)高手張允迪摹(mo)刻(ke)，可稱(cheng)“四絕”碑(bei)，是目(mu)前國內(nei)僅存(cun)的(de)(de)兩(liang)(liang)塊老(lao)子像(xiang)碑(bei)之(zhi)一(yi)。三清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)西山墻(qiang)有60根大(da)青石(shi)六(liu)面(mian)柱，每面(mian)刻(ke)有一(yi)天(tian)尊(zun)像(xiang)，共刻(ke)360天(tian)尊(zun)像(xiang)，合周年數。玄妙(miao)觀(guan)前一(yi)條街名觀(guan)前街，為(wei)蘇州的(de)(de)主(zhu)要商(shang)業街之(zhi)一(yi)。

三清殿

三(san)清殿(dian)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀正殿(dian)，南宋(song)(song)淳熙六(liu)年(1179)重建。重檐歇山(shan)造(zao)，面(mian)闊9間(jian)(jian)(jian)，廣45.64米(mi)(mi)，進深(shen)6間(jian)(jian)(jian)，深(shen)25.25米(mi)(mi)，通高(gao)(gao)約27米(mi)(mi)，面(mian)闊與進深(shen)之(zhi)比為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)9：5。殿(dian)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)排(pai)列(lie)，縱橫成行，內(nei)(nei)(nei)外一(yi)致，共(gong)有7列(lie)，每列(lie)10柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)，無(wu)“減柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)”或“移(yi)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)”，俗稱“滿堂柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)”。四周(zhou)檐柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)八角(jiao)石(shi)(shi)(shi)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)，共(gong)30根；殿(dian)內(nei)(nei)(nei)諸柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)除內(nei)(nei)(nei)槽中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)央(yang)(yang)三(san)間(jian)(jian)(jian)4根后(hou)金(jin)(jin)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)抹角(jiao)石(shi)(shi)(shi)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)外，均為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)圓木(mu)(mu)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)，共(gong) 36根。柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)礎(chu)均為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)連磉有唇覆盆式(shi)，檐柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)礎(chu)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)再施仿(fang)木(mu)(mu)質八角(jiao)形(xing)石(shi)(shi)(shi)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)腳，殿(dian)內(nei)(nei)(nei)木(mu)(mu)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)則于礎(chu)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)加石(shi)(shi)(shi)鼓。下(xia)(xia)(xia)檐斗(dou)拱(gong)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)四鋪單昂(ang)(ang)(ang)，昂(ang)(ang)(ang)的(de)(de)(de)下(xia)(xia)(xia)緣向(xiang)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)微微反曲。柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)頭鋪作(zuo)(zuo)昂(ang)(ang)(ang)嘴(zui)實(shi)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)內(nei)(nei)(nei)檐華拱(gong)的(de)(de)(de)延長，其(qi)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)承月(yue)(yue)梁(liang)。梁(liang)頭伸出作(zuo)(zuo)耍頭，斫作(zuo)(zuo)宋(song)(song)式(shi)梢(shao)頭。補間(jian)(jian)(jian)鋪作(zuo)(zuo)皆(jie)用(yong)(yong)真(zhen)昂(ang)(ang)(ang)，后(hou)尾(wei)挑起，以承托下(xia)(xia)(xia)平(ping)(ping)西(xi)方(fang)槫下(xia)(xia)(xia)的(de)(de)(de)令(ling)拱(gong)，即《營(ying)(ying)造(zao)法式(shi)》上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)的(de)(de)(de)“飛昂(ang)(ang)(ang)”制度。上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)檐柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)頭與補間(jian)(jian)(jian)鋪作(zuo)(zuo)均為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)重昂(ang)(ang)(ang)，結(jie)構(gou)(gou)(gou)完全一(yi)致，但僅為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)華拱(gong)前(qian)(qian)端做出假昂(ang)(ang)(ang)，其(qi)后(hou)并無(wu)昂(ang)(ang)(ang)挑起的(de)(de)(de)杠桿作(zuo)(zuo)用(yong)(yong)。至于內(nei)(nei)(nei)槽斗(dou)拱(gong)，則于重抄(chao)之(zhi)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)，前(qian)(qian)后(hou)兩面(mian)用(yong)(yong)“上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)昂(ang)(ang)(ang)”成為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)“六(liu)鋪作(zuo)(zuo)重抄(chao)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)昂(ang)(ang)(ang)斗(dou)拱(gong)”結(jie)構(gou)(gou)(gou)，為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)國內(nei)(nei)(nei)孤例(li)(li)。在(zai)櫨(lu)(lu)斗(dou)兩側(ce)，結(jie)構(gou)(gou)(gou)完全對稱，較《營(ying)(ying)造(zao)法式(shi)》所(suo)(suo)載上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)昂(ang)(ang)(ang)做法更為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)簡(jian)化。又內(nei)(nei)(nei)槽內(nei)(nei)(nei)轉(zhuan)角(jiao)鋪作(zuo)(zuo)，在(zai)后(hou)金(jin)(jin)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)都用(yong)(yong)插(cha)拱(gong)，即以丁頭拱(gong)插(cha)于柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)內(nei)(nei)(nei)，無(wu)櫨(lu)(lu)斗(dou)，亦(yi)此殿(dian)斗(dou)拱(gong)重要特征，為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)國內(nei)(nei)(nei)現存(cun)最古(gu)實(shi)例(li)(li)。內(nei)(nei)(nei)槽斗(dou)拱(gong)之(zhi)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)，更施平(ping)(ping)棋，殿(dian)的(de)(de)(de)梁(liang)架(jia)結(jie)構(gou)(gou)(gou)，外槽梁(liang)架(jia)先施順木(mu)(mu)伏串，次于柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)頭鋪作(zuo)(zuo)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)架(jia)月(yue)(yue)梁(liang)，復用(yong)(yong)襻間(jian)(jian)(jian)作(zuo)(zuo)。月(yue)(yue)梁(liang)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)又施櫨(lu)(lu)斗(dou)，置十字交叉(cha)令(ling)拱(gong)，承上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)層月(yue)(yue)梁(liang)與槫下(xia)(xia)(xia)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)頭枋(fang)。結(jie)構(gou)(gou)(gou)與《營(ying)(ying)造(zao)法式(shi)》亦(yi)能符合。內(nei)(nei)(nei)額(e)除中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)央(yang)(yang)四縫外，都于其(qi)下(xia)(xia)(xia)另(ling)加上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)枋(fang)，二者之(zhi)間(jian)(jian)(jian)用(yong)(yong)襻間(jian)(jian)(jian)鋪作(zuo)(zuo)。殿(dian)的(de)(de)(de)內(nei)(nei)(nei)槽中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)央(yang)(yang)5間(jian)(jian)(jian)后(hou)金(jin)(jin)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)，筑(zhu)磚壁達內(nei)(nei)(nei)額(e)下(xia)(xia)(xia)皮(pi)，壁前(qian)(qian)有磚砌須彌座，面(mian)闊3間(jian)(jian)(jian)，高(gao)(gao)1.75米(mi)(mi)，式(shi)樣略如(ru)《營(ying)(ying)造(zao)法式(shi)》而繁密過之(zhi)。上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)奉三(san)清像(xiang)，趺坐于方(fang)座上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)，像(xiang)高(gao)(gao)約6米(mi)(mi)，高(gao)(gao)于地面(mian)約10.5米(mi)(mi)，神(shen)態凝重，衣(yi)褶生(sheng)動，是(shi)古(gu)代(dai)道(dao)教(jiao)造(zao)像(xiang)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)的(de)(de)(de)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)品。殿(dian)內(nei)(nei)(nei)壁間(jian)(jian)(jian)嵌有碑石(shi)(shi)(shi)多方(fang)，以南宋(song)(song)寶慶元年(1225)所(suo)(suo)刻(ke)“太(tai)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)老君像(xiang)”最為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)珍(zhen)貴(gui)，像(xiang)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)唐代(dai)吳道(dao)子所(suo)(suo)繪，形(xing)貌蒼(cang)褶流暢，上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)方(fang)有顏真(zhen)卿所(suo)(suo)書唐玄(xuan)宗(zong)李隆基(ji)(ji)的(de)(de)(de)“贊(zan)”四言十六(liu)句，刻(ke)工為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)張允迪。三(san)清殿(dian)臺基(ji)(ji)面(mian)闊49.6米(mi)(mi)，進深(shen)29.5米(mi)(mi)，現高(gao)(gao)出周(zhou)圍地面(mian)約1 米(mi)(mi)。前(qian)(qian)施月(yue)(yue)臺，面(mian)闊27.2米(mi)(mi)，進深(shen)16.3米(mi)(mi)，中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)央(yang)(yang)立鐵鼎。正面(mian)與左、右各踏跺，周(zhou)以青石(shi)(shi)(shi)勾欄(lan)。臺基(ji)(ji)僅南面(mian)東、西(xi)梢(shao)間(jian)(jian)(jian)及盡(jin)間(jian)(jian)(jian)有石(shi)(shi)(shi)欄(lan)，與月(yue)(yue)臺石(shi)(shi)(shi)欄(lan)貫通，華版雕刻(ke)極細，內(nei)(nei)(nei)容有人(ren)物、走獸(shou)、飛禽(qin)、水(shui)族、山(shan)水(shui)、云(yun)樹、亭閣等，頗為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)古(gu)樸(pu)生(sheng)動，為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)宋(song)(song)或宋(song)(song)以前(qian)(qian)作(zuo)(zuo)品。三(san)清殿(dian)是(shi)江蘇(su)最古(gu)的(de)(de)(de)木(mu)(mu)結(jie)構(gou)(gou)(gou)建筑(zhu)，也是(shi)國內(nei)(nei)(nei)現存(cun)體量最大(da)的(de)(de)(de)宋(song)(song)代(dai)大(da)殿(dian)。

正山門

正(zheng)山門(men)(men)位于(yu)三清殿南約80米(mi)處，清乾隆四十年(1775)重建。重檐歇山造，面闊5間(jian)，廣20米(mi)，進深(shen)12米(mi)，于(yu)當心間(jian)脊(ji)柱間(jian)設(she)斷砌門(men)(men)。

如意門

如意門(西腳門)內(nei)的雷(lei)尊殿(dian)(dian)初名雷(lei)神(shen)蓼(liao)，亦(yi)為坐北(bei)朝南(nan)的重(zhong)檐歇山式(shi)建筑，明天(tian)順二年(nian)(1458)建，清(qing)(qing)康(kang)熙(xi)四年(nian)(1665)重(zhong)修，面闊3間(jian)，廣16米，進(jin)深(shen)14米，前加卷棚頂軒廊3間(jian)，與下檐形成勾連搭(da)屋頂，通進(jin)深(shen)21米，梁架結(jie)構(gou)及柱(zhu)礎制均有明代特(te)征，殿(dian)(dian)南(nan)尚存(cun)山門3間(jian)。此(ci)外，觀(guan)內(nei)現存(cun)殿(dian)(dian)閣，東有財神(shen)殿(dian)(dian)、天(tian)醫(yi)藥王殿(dian)(dian)、火神(shen)殿(dian)(dian)、三(san)清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)、斗姆閣等，西有觀(guan)音殿(dian)(dian)、三(san)官殿(dian)(dian)等，北(bei)有蓑衣真人殿(dian)(dian)、方丈(zhang)殿(dian)(dian)等，多數為晚清(qing)(qing)重(zhong)建。

保存在觀內(nei)碑刻有數(shu)十(shi)種(zhong)，上(shang)起宋(song)代(dai)，下迄(qi)清末。

通(tong)神先生何蓑(suo)衣(yi)事實碑(bei) 在蓑(suo)衣(yi)真(zhen)人殿。碑(bei)高1.55米(mi)、寬1.08米(mi)，胡袤撰，宋孝宗(zong)脊題“通(tong)神庵”三字，南(nan)宋慶(qing)元三年(1197)刻(ke)石。

詔建(jian)三(san)清大殿上(shang)梁文碑(bei)(bei) 在祖師殿遺址碑(bei)(bei)廊。碑(bei)(bei)高1.62米(mi)、寬0.93米(mi)，南(nan)宋淳熙(xi)八(ba)年(nian)(1181)龔頤正撰，嘉定十一年(nian)(1218)立石，張允(yun)迪刻(ke)，原在三(san)清殿。

老君(jun)像碑在頤正殿(dian)。碑高(gao)1.8米、寬0.91米，吳道子畫，唐(tang)玄宗(zong)李隆基(ji)贊，顏真卿書(shu)，馮(feng)大同跋，張允迪刻(ke)，南(nan)宋寶慶元年(1225)立(li)石。

朝旨蠲免天(tian)慶觀(guan)道正司科敷度(du)牒尚書省札部符使帖碑在三清殿。高1.97米(mi)、寬(kuan)1.08米(mi)，頂端抹(mo)角，南宋端平元年(1234)立。

清理(li)道教碑在三清殿外東側。高6.5米(mi)(mi)、寬2.7米(mi)(mi)，方(fang)孝孺(ru)撰并書，明洪武中(zhong)年(1371)立，后(hou)方(fang)氏被(bei)誅，碑文被(bei)劃去(qu)，故俗(su)稱無字碑。

重修三清殿記碑在(zai)火神(shen)殿南小弄內(nei)。高1.66米(mi)(mi)、寬(kuan)0.9米(mi)(mi)，王進(jin)撰，衛(wei)靖(jing)書，張徽篆額，明(ming)宣德(de)四年(1429)呂志清立石，左上角殘缺(que)，碑文已漫(man)漶。

重修玄妙觀五岳樓(lou)記碑現存祖師遺址碑廊(lang)。高1.15米、寬0.66米，李杰撰，陳昌言刻，明弘治十六(liu)年(nian)(1503)立(li)，原置東岳殿。

玄(xuan)妙觀三清殿(dian)至今已有(you)八百多年歷史，九開間的宏殿(dian)巍峨軒昂，原來(lai)說是在(zai)江(jiang)南(nan)(nan)絕(jue)無僅有(you)，后來(lai)文物專家羅哲文來(lai)蘇(su)考察，說是全國(guo)也沒有(you)這(zhe)樣巨大的南(nan)(nan)宋(song)建(jian)筑( 其氣勢(shi)只有(you)北京故宮的太和殿(dian)和曲阜孔廟大成殿(dian)可與之(zhi)相(xiang)比、但這(zhe)些建(jian)筑的年代(dai)都(dou)遠(yuan)遠(yuan)晚于南(nan)(nan)宋(song))，所以三清殿(dian)稱為(wei)國(guo)寶(bao)當之(zhi)無愧(kui)！

集市特色

玄妙觀為(wei)全(quan)國著名(ming)道觀，又是歷史(shi)悠久的(de)傳統(tong)集市(shi)。馮夢龍《警世通言》無礙居士序(xu)中說(shuo)：“吾頃(qing)從玄妙觀聽說(shuo)《三國志》來(lai)。”說(shuo)明(ming)玄妙觀在明(ming)天啟年間已有露(lu)天書場。至清代(dai)設攤者日(ri)多，遂演變成為(wei)古城(cheng)中心一(yi)處熱鬧的(de)集市(shi)，有小吃、日(ri)用雜品、文具(ju)玩(wan)具(ju)、對(dui)聯字畫、花鳥魚蟲的(de)攤店以(yi)及醫卜星相(xiang)、江湖雜耍等等，五花八門，不(bu)一(yi)而足。茲就昔日(ri)報刊(kan)所載30年代(dai)前后(hou)玄妙觀集市(shi)狀況略舉一(yi)二，以(yi)見其(qi)概貌(mao)。

小吃特色

玄妙觀的(de)小吃(chi)，名(ming)目繁多，如小米子糖、灰湯粽、氽(tun)魷魚(yu)、熏(xun)魚(yu)、涼粉(fen)、藕粉(fen)、千(qian)張百(bai)頁、酒(jiu)釀圓子、豆腐花、糖粥、梅花糕(gao)、海棠糕(gao)、焐酥(su)豆、五香茶葉(xie)蛋、雞鴨血湯，其余如面、小籠饅頭、鍋貼、燒賣、餛飩(tun)、湯團等等，應有盡有。著名(ming)的(de)攤店(dian)，有專(zhuan)售(shou)梨膏(gao)糖的(de)文(wen)魁齋、觀振興(xing)面店(dian)、王源興(xing)酒(jiu)釀豆漿(jiang)店(dian)、小有天藕粉(fen)店(dian)、五芳齋、六芳齋、七芳齋等等，還有百(bai)年以上歷史(shi)的(de)三(san)萬思、品芳兩家茶館。可(ke)以說玄妙觀是蘇(su)州小吃(chi)最(zui)為集中的(de)地方。

年畫特色

三清(qing)殿(dian)內(nei)是傳統的年畫(hua)市場，出(chu)售桃花塢出(chu)版的各種畫(hua)張，如(ru)神軸、灶(zao)神、門神、百(bai)壽圖、送子圖、鳳穿牡丹、魚跳龍門、歲寒三友、梅開五(wu)福、岳飛抗金、關羽夜讀(du)春秋、二十(shi)四孝等(deng)等(deng)，民國(guo)以后上海(hai)的彩(cai)印美(mei)女圖、風景畫(hua)進入(ru)觀內(nei)，受到大眾歡(huan)迎(ying)。另有對聯(lian)、立軸，并可請名家當場揮毫，其中最著名者汪(wang)煥文(wen)(度)，自號“鄧尉山農”，在(zai)三清(qing)殿(dian)書寫對聯(lian)數十(shi)年之久。

觀(guan)內空(kong)地經常演出各種江湖雜耍(shua)，有變戲法、木偶戲、耍(shua)猴(hou)戲、西洋鏡、唱小熱昏、賣拳頭、說露天書等等。鑼鼓響處，圍滿人群(qun)，熙(xi)熙(xi)攘(rang)攘(rang)，熱鬧非凡。

醫卜星相更

醫卜星相(xiang)(xiang)更(geng)是玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)大(da)(da)特色，有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)祖傳(chuan)秘方(fang)、專(zhuan)治氣(qi)喘、癆(lao)疾、筋骨(gu)酸疼的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)江(jiang)湖郎中(zhong)，有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)撥牙的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)牙醫，有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)主(zhu)治跌打損傷(shang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)傷(shang)科等(deng)等(deng)。遠(yuan)近聞名(ming)(ming)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)葛云彬(bin)、謝明(ming)(ming)德都(dou)曾在(zai)此掛牌設(she)攤。算(suan)命(ming)(ming)(ming)、相(xiang)(xiang)面(mian)、測字(zi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)集中(zhong)在(zai)東(dong)腳(jiao)門至(zhi)(zhi)牛角浜一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)路，有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)當街設(she)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)桌一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)椅，有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)設(she)館，總稱“巾(jin)行”，七十二(er)巾(jin)可(ke)謂(wei)樣樣齊(qi)全。有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)量手曰(yue)“量巾(jin)”，鳥(niao)銜設(she)牌曰(yue)“鳥(niao)巾(jin)”，拉胡琴曰(yue)“夾(jia)絲(si)巾(jin)”，敲搭板(ban)小(xiao)鑼曰(yue)“響巾(jin)”，相(xiang)(xiang)面(mian)曰(yue)“斬(zhan)盤搶巾(jin)”，批八字(zi)曰(yue)“八黑”，搖課(ke)曰(yue)“圓頭”，拆字(zi)曰(yue)“小(xiao)黑”，瞎子(zi)摸牌曰(yue)“觀(guan)(guan)(guan)梅”。相(xiang)(xiang)面(mian)有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)手相(xiang)(xiang)、摸骨(gu)相(xiang)(xiang)等(deng)幾種，以(yi)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)鑒明(ming)(ming)(真名(ming)(ming)張(zhang)子(zi)芳)、朱(zhu)少卿最為(wei)(wei)有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)名(ming)(ming)。相(xiang)(xiang)面(mian)兼(jian)算(suan)命(ming)(ming)(ming)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)四(si)明(ming)(ming)山人、王一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)舟等(deng)。算(suan)命(ming)(ming)(ming)兼(jian)堪輿(風水、地(di)理、流年(nian)(nian)(nian)、合婚(hun))的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)，以(yi)楊鳳巢、蔣通天(tian)(tian)、凌(ling)云山、楊守(shou)成、鄒慕鴻等(deng)為(wei)(wei)主(zhu)。拆字(zi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)談虎臣、張(zhang)天(tian)(tian)良等(deng)。起(qi)課(ke)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)文王課(ke)、六壬課(ke)，以(yi)明(ming)(ming)如鏡為(wei)(wei)有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)名(ming)(ming)。還有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)鴻運(yun)來(lai)(lai)(真名(ming)(ming)泊(bo)良)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)烏(wu)(wu)龜(gui)測字(zi)，他(ta)把事先用膠水寫好(hao)(hao)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)字(zi)條，放在(zai)置有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)烏(wu)(wu)賊骨(gu)粉的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)烏(wu)(wu)龜(gui)殼內，搖動幾下(xia)便(bian)顯出字(zi)跡，以(yi)此吸引(yin)好(hao)(hao)奇者。他(ta)們(men)(men)或取號“賽諸葛”、“小(xiao)神(shen)仙”，或自(zi)稱“能知過去未(wei)來(lai)(lai)，善(shan)斷吉(ji)兇禍福”，舉(ju)凡男(nan)女婚(hun)配、家庭糾紛(fen)、生老(lao)病死、官運(yun)財氣(qi)均(jun)是他(ta)們(men)(men)測算(suan)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)范圍。俗(su)話說(shuo)“江(jiang)湖一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)點(dian)訣，莫對妻子(zi)說(shuo)，若對妻子(zi)說(shuo)，飯都(dou)沒得吃！”然(ran)而(er)，明(ming)(ming)明(ming)(ming)是迷信騙局，卻有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)無數人找(zhao)到(dao)他(ta)們(men)(men)尋求慰藉(jie)，直(zhi)到(dao)解放后他(ta)們(men)(men)才由政府安排轉業。以(yi)上(shang)所述說(shuo)明(ming)(ming)，由于玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)歷史和地(di)理條件(jian)，使它(ta)成為(wei)(wei)與北京天(tian)(tian)橋、南(nan)京夫子(zi)廟(miao)(miao)、上(shang)海(hai)老(lao)城隍(huang)廟(miao)(miao)齊(qi)名(ming)(ming)而(er)又具有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)蘇州地(di)方(fang)特色的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)熱鬧場所。蘇州人常說(shuo)“白相(xiang)(xiang)玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)”，外地(di)人到(dao)蘇州也必(bi)至(zhi)(zhi)玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)游，這已經成為(wei)(wei)人們(men)(men)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)共識。隨著(zhu)時代的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)發展，玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)也在(zai)不斷發生變化(hua)，但它(ta)既是古跡名(ming)(ming)勝，又為(wei)(wei)傳(chuan)統(tong)集市(shi)(shi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)這一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)基本(ben)性質和特點(dian)，始終未(wei)變，1956年(nian)(nian)(nian)，對玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)攤販進(jin)行整理，保持了小(xiao)吃為(wei)(wei)主(zhu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)傳(chuan)統(tong)特色。“文化(hua)大(da)(da)革(ge)命(ming)(ming)(ming)”期間，取消(xiao)玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)集市(shi)(shi)。1979年(nian)(nian)(nian)12月，江(jiang)蘇省(sheng)12市(shi)(shi)、縣(xian)糖果(guo)評(ping)展會(hui)在(zai)玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)舉(ju)辦(ban)，隨后小(xiao)吃攤、服(fu)裝攤、雜(za)貨(huo)(huo)攤及縫(feng)紉攤擁(yong)塞觀(guan)(guan)(guan)內，成為(wei)(wei)蘇州恢(hui)復(fu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)集市(shi)(shi)。經多(duo)年(nian)(nian)(nian)整理和規(gui)(gui)劃，建起(qi)統(tong)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)規(gui)(gui)格的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)售貨(huo)(huo)亭，西腳(jiao)門甬道(dao)南(nan)段(duan)設(she)20多(duo)個傳(chuan)統(tong)小(xiao)吃亭，北段(duan)有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)10多(duo)個縫(feng)紉攤；東(dong)腳(jiao)門南(nan)段(duan)為(wei)(wei)服(fu)裝售貨(huo)(huo)亭，北段(duan)為(wei)(wei)修補(bu)皮匠攤點(dian)；三清殿后興起(qi)漁網漁具市(shi)(shi)場。1985年(nian)(nian)(nian)，玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)內有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)157個攤位。

實用信息

門票：

10元(yuan)（寺觀覽勝(sheng)）；15元(yuan)（姑蘇(su)道教仙樂）；10元(yuan)（道教飛鈸表演）。

公交：

乘坐1、102、146、178、202、502到觀(guan)前街（東、西或樂橋）后(hou)，步行至街中段的玄妙觀(guan)內。

交通信息

可乘游1東線到(dao)玄妙觀站下車(che)，或乘2線、1路、101路、38路等到(dao)觀前街站下車(che)。