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簡介

玄(xuan)(xuan)妙觀(guan)(guan)是(shi)位(wei)于中國(guo)東南部著名旅游城市(shi)蘇州的著名道觀(guan)(guan)，創建于公(gong)元(yuan)276年，最初名叫“真(zhen)慶道院(yuan)”，后來(lai)曾(ceng)改(gai)稱為“開元(yuan)宮”、“天慶觀(guan)(guan)”。公(gong)元(yuan)1295年元(yuan)朝皇帝(di)下令改(gai)為玄(xuan)(xuan)妙觀(guan)(guan)。玄(xuan)(xuan)妙觀(guan)(guan)至今已(yi)有1700多(duo)年的歷史，所(suo)以(yi)被(bei)稱為“江南第一古觀(guan)(guan)”。

玄妙觀坐落在(zai)蘇州古城中(zhong)(zhong)心(xin)，其主殿(dian)三清殿(dian)建成(cheng)于(yu)南(nan)(nan)宋(song)年間，是蘇州僅存的(de)一座(zuo)南(nan)(nan)宋(song)木(mu)構(gou)殿(dian)宇式建筑，歷史悠(you)久、規模宏偉，在(zai)中(zhong)(zhong)國建筑史上具有重(zhong)要(yao)的(de)歷史價值，1982年被列為全國重(zhong)點文(wen)物保護單位。

現玄妙觀(guan)進(jin)行(xing)了修復(fu)整治(zhi)，有(you)殿(dian)堂七座(zuo)，中路(lu)有(you)正山門、三清(qing)殿(dian)，東路(lu)有(you)文(wen)昌殿(dian)、斗(dou)姆閣、壽(shou)星殿(dian)，西路(lu)有(you)雷尊殿(dian)、財神殿(dian)。觀(guan)內有(you)很(hen)多珍貴的(de)文(wen)物遺跡，道教文(wen)化內涵深(shen)厚,是中國少有(you)的(de)完整道觀(guan)建筑(zhu)(zhu)群，其中三清(qing)殿(dian)現仍保留著(zhu)宋代建筑(zhu)(zhu)的(de)風貌與特點。

玄妙觀歷史上(shang)曾是蘇州宗教(jiao)文化中(zhong)心，現是蘇州地區道教(jiao)活(huo)動的(de)(de)主(zhu)要場所(suo)。由于(yu)優越的(de)(de)地理位置，眾多的(de)(de)文物古跡以及豐富的(de)(de)道教(jiao)文化內涵，玄妙觀已成(cheng)為(wei)蘇州市著名的(de)(de)旅游(you)景點之(zhi)一。

歷史沿革

蘇州香火最盛(sheng)的(de)地方(fang)并非佛教寺廟(miao)，而是道教的(de)玄妙觀。

玄(xuan)妙觀(guan)(guan)(guan)始建于(yu)西晉，已有(you)1700余年的(de)(de)(de)歷史(shi)。觀(guan)(guan)(guan)內(nei)建于(yu)南(nan)宋的(de)(de)(de)三清(qing)殿是江(jiang)南(nan)最大(da)的(de)(de)(de)木構古建筑。殿內(nei)供奉的(de)(de)(de)高(gao)達17米的(de)(de)(de)三清(qing)（上(shang)清(qing)、玉清(qing)、太清(qing)）塑(su)像，堪稱(cheng)宋代(dai)雕塑(su)的(de)(de)(de)上(shang)佳之作。玄(xuan)妙觀(guan)(guan)(guan)中現存(cun)有(you)唐吳(wu)道子畫老君像、玄(xuan)宗贊、顏真卿書法等碑刻(ke)，彌(mi)足珍貴．

除三清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)和(he)正山(shan)門(men)(men)外，玄妙觀還有歷(li)(li)代(dai)(dai)建(jian)成的副殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)和(he)二十四座配殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，從東(dong)腳門(men)(men)依(yi)次為(wei)：神(shen)州殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元(yuan))、太陽宮(清(qing)(qing))、天(tian)醫藥王(wang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋)、真官(guan)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元(yuan))、天(tian)后(hou)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing)(qing))、文昌殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing)(qing))、祖師殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元(yuan))、斗姆(mu)閣(清(qing)(qing) )、火神(shen)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing)(qing))、三茅殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋)、機房殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(明(ming))、關帝殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元(yuan))、東(dong)岳殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋)、痘(dou)司(si)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋)等(deng)十四處(chu)，西(xi)(xi)腳門(men)(men)配殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)依(yi)次為(wei)：雷尊殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元(yuan))、壽星(xing)(xing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋)、水府殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing)(qing))等(deng)七(qi)處(chu)。三清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)后(hou)為(wei)彌羅寶(bao)閣，再后(hou)面是(shi)蓑衣真人殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋)、肝胃殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing)(qing))、薩(sa)祖方(fang)丈殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)。各殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)所(suo)供神(shen)像大(da)都出自神(shen)話傳說，如(ru)太陽神(shen)、雷神(shen)、火神(shen)、關帝、文曲星(xing)(xing)、灶(zao)神(shen)、土地、八仙、壽星(xing)(xing)、觀音等(deng)，體現了蘇州地方(fang)文化特色(se)和(he)民間信仰(yang)的色(se)彩，曾(ceng)是(shi)城鄉(xiang)老百姓(xing)精(jing)神(shen)寄托和(he)休閑娛樂(le)的去所(suo)。從康熙(xi)十三年(nian)(公元(yuan)674年(nian))玄妙觀建(jian)筑群圖上可以看出東(dong)至洙泗巷(xiang)， 西(xi)(xi)臨大(da)成坊，北至舊(jiu)學前河(he)，南面有黃色(se)照墻橫亙(gen)正山(shan)門(men)(men)兩(liang)側，整(zheng)個建(jian)筑群十分壯觀。彈丸(wan)之地集中了宋元(yuan)明(ming)清(qing)(qing)歷(li)(li)代(dai)(dai)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇，真可謂是(shi)一座古(gu)典(dian)建(jian)筑的博物館。

據道光《元妙(miao)觀(guan)志(zhi)》圖載，清(qing)代玄妙(miao)觀(guan)盛時占地5.5萬平方米，共有30多座殿(dian)(dian)閣(ge)。中軸線(xian)上(shang)自南而(er)北依次為(wei)正山(shan)(shan)門、三(san)清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)、彌(mi)羅寶(bao)閣(ge)，其他殿(dian)(dian)閣(ge)分布(bu)在25處(chu)自成院落(luo)的(de)(de)“子院”內，如眾(zhong)星拱(gong)月般從東(dong)、西(xi)、北三(san)面(mian)圍繞(rao)著中軸線(xian)上(shang)的(de)(de)主要殿(dian)(dian)閣(ge)，形成一片巍峨壯麗(li)的(de)(de)建筑群(qun)。但自咸(xian)豐、同治之(zhi)際遭(zao)受戰火后，即漸(jian)趨衰落(luo)，未能(neng)恢復舊觀(guan)，宏偉(wei)的(de)(de)彌(mi)羅寶(bao)閣(ge)也(ye)于民國(guo)元年(nian)(nian)(nian)(1912)8月28日失火焚毀。1956年(nian)(nian)(nian)，整修三(san)清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)、 正山(shan)(shan)門及東(dong)、西(xi)諸(zhu)殿(dian)(dian)門墻，清(qing)理廣庭。同年(nian)(nian)(nian)，玄妙(miao)觀(guan)三(san)清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)被列為(wei)省(sheng)文物(wu)保護單位。1966年(nian)(nian)(nian)后遭(zao)受損壞，1981年(nian)(nian)(nian)再(zai)修三(san)清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)及正山(shan)(shan)門。1982年(nian)(nian)(nian)，玄妙(miao)觀(guan)三(san)清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)被列為(wei)全(quan)國(guo)重點文物(wu)保護單位。

蘇州市政(zheng)府又連(lian)續(xu)撥巨款重修(xiu)玄妙(miao)觀正山門和三清(qing)殿(dian)，殿(dian)內神像重塑金身，已(yi)于1999年元月開光(guang)慶典(dian)。

玄妙觀(guan)多(duo)數殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇各有山(shan)門(men)(men)、照墻，觀(guan)內(nei)(nei)廣場(chang)(chang)商(shang)販與百戲雜陳。觀(guan)內(nei)(nei)方(fang)丈殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)為(wei)(wei)穹窿(long)山(shan)上真(zhen)觀(guan)下院，直至民國初，該(gai)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)振(zhen)法(fa)堂(tang)內(nei)(nei)高(gao)懸(xuan)戒規，內(nei)(nei)容(rong)主(zhu)要有不準(zhun)娶家室、不準(zhun)目無師(shi)長等。違(wei)反戒規者，輕(qing)則(ze)重責、重則(ze)開除(chu)(chu)(俗稱“貼革條”)。方(fang)丈為(wei)(wei)一觀(guan)之主(zhu)。民國元(yuan)(yuan)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)8月28日(ri)， 大(da)廈三(san)(san)層(ceng)、飛甍隆棟的彌羅寶閣失火(huo)焚毀(hui)，內(nei)(nei)僅金(jin)身神(shen)像(xiang)就(jiu)有380余(yu)(yu)尊，閶(chang)門(men)(men)外(wai)十房(fang)(fang)(fang)莊淘沙戶(hu)曾(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)擬(ni)出(chu)(chu)資(zi)1萬(wan)元(yuan)(yuan)承包清(qing)除(chu)(chu)火(huo)場(chang)(chang)垃(la)圾。方(fang)丈倪仰云因失火(huo)被提出(chu)(chu)公訴并辭職，自(zi)此(ci)方(fang)丈威信大(da)降，戒規松(song)弛。方(fang)丈管(guan)2房(fang)(fang)(fang)、6殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)。至北(bei)伐時，方(fang)丈殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)還有五六(liu)處(chu)山(shan)房(fang)(fang)(fang)，近(jin)百間屋。各房(fang)(fang)(fang)輪流執管(guan)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)事，有帳房(fang)(fang)(fang)、文書(shu)及(ji)香(xiang)工10余(yu)(yu)人，廚(chu)師(shi)2人。其(qi)(qi)余(yu)(yu)12房(fang)(fang)(fang)分(fen)掌一至二、三(san)(san)座殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，實各為(wei)(wei)一獨立道(dao)(dao)(dao)院。22年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)太陽宮(gong)住(zhu)持許鶴梅(mei)曾(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)去上海合伙開設玄妙觀(guan)分(fen)院，一年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)后因生意(yi)不好而收歇。20年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)代至抗(kang)日(ri)戰爭中，祖師(shi)、灶君、八仙、壽星(xing)、水府(fu)、關帝諸殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)相繼圮廢、改建(jian)或被日(ri)機(ji)轟炸震坍。三(san)(san)清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)內(nei)(nei)擺滿(man)字(zi)畫攤，屋面(mian)被敵(di)偽人員捉鴿子踐踏得嚴重漏雨。機(ji)房(fang)(fang)(fang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)曾(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)開設賭場(chang)(chang)，長期出(chu)(chu)租和被典賣的有神(shen)州(zhou)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)和痘司殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)。民國6、32、33和35年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)曾(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)先后修葺(qi)東(dong)岳(yue)(yue)、真(zhen)官、雷尊和觀(guan)音(yin)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，但其(qi)(qi)余(yu)(yu)諸殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)日(ri)趨破(po)敗。近(jin)解放時正山(shan)門(men)(men)淪為(wei)(wei)銀元(yuan)(yuan)市場(chang)(chang)。至1949年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)存正山(shan)門(men)(men)及(ji)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)17座(即三(san)(san)清(qing)、方(fang)丈、 真(zhen)人、肝胃、藥王、東(dong)岳(yue)(yue)、火(huo)神(shen)、三(san)(san)茅、天后、真(zhen)官、文昌、機(ji)房(fang)(fang)(fang)、三(san)(san)官、雷尊、觀(guan)音(yin)諸殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)及(ji)斗姆閣、太陽宮(gong))。1952年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)有道(dao)(dao)(dao)士33人，家屬83人，香(xiang)工6人；有屋523.5間，內(nei)(nei)自(zi)用200間，余(yu)(yu)多(duo)出(chu)(chu)租。1956年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)統(tong)計，占地(di)(di)51.72畝，神(shen)像(xiang)519尊，同年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)將廣場(chang)(chang)周(zhou)圍(wei)600余(yu)(yu)戶(hu)店(dian)攤居民遷(qian)出(chu)(chu)，斗姆閣改建(jian)為(wei)(wei)書(shu)畫店(dian)。1957年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)全(quan)觀(guan)收入：房(fang)(fang)(fang)地(di)(di)租454元(yuan)(yuan)，香(xiang)火(huo)94元(yuan)(yuan)，法(fa)事29元(yuan)(yuan)，其(qi)(qi)他343元(yuan)(yuan)。1958年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)11月道(dao)(dao)(dao)教學習會直接掌管(guan)三(san)(san)清(qing)、星(xing)宿(原(yuan)屬觀(guan)音(yin)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，1956年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)將在(zai)清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)花甲星(xing)宿塑像(xiang)遷(qian)入，故名)兩(liang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)及(ji)雷尊、 火(huo)神(shen)的大(da)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)部(bu)分(fen)，余(yu)(yu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)除(chu)(chu)留少量道(dao)(dao)(dao)士自(zi)住(zhu)外(wai)，都(dou)交(jiao)給房(fang)(fang)(fang)管(guan)局(ju)管(guan)理(li)，13道(dao)(dao)(dao)房(fang)(fang)(fang)至此(ci)消失。1959年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)東(dong)岳(yue)(yue)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)焚毀(hui)。該(gai)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)內(nei)(nei)的五岳(yue)(yue)樓，構建(jian)工巧(qiao)，四面(mian)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇，中峙一樓，“大(da)躍(yue)進”中全(quan)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)拆去。1964年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)市政府(fu)又撥款整修，三(san)(san)清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)與正山(shan)門(men)(men)油漆一新，廣場(chang)(chang)中遍植綠(lv)樹草茵。“文化(hua)大(da)革命”起，除(chu)(chu)三(san)(san)清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)神(shen)像(xiang)幸(xing)獲保存(“玉(yu)清(qing)”神(shen)像(xiang)的頭(tou)部(bu)被砍(kan))外(wai)，其(qi)(qi)余(yu)(yu)神(shen)像(xiang)、道(dao)(dao)(dao)經(jing)、科(ke)書(shu)被焚燒數晝夜，銅像(xiang)8尊亦(yi)被毀(hui)，三(san)(san)清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)一度改為(wei)(wei)收租院泥(ni)塑展覽會，兩(liang)廊各配殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)在(zai) 60～70年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)代陸續改作商(shang)店(dian)、倉庫、菜場(chang)(chang)。

其間失(shi)(shi)去(qu)的殿(dian)(dian)(dian)宇分(fen)別為(wei)(wei)(wei)彌羅寶閣，1912年(nian)(nian)失(shi)(shi)火焚毀，原地改(gai)建中山(shan)堂；灶(zao)君殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，1917年(nian)(nian)出借給同仁救火會，1930年(nian)(nian)被(bei)會擅自拆(chai)除改(gai)建，后為(wei)(wei)(wei)勞(lao)保(bao)用品商店(dian)；太陽宮，1914年(nian)(nian)為(wei)(wei)(wei)吳縣黃天源糕團店(dian)門(men)市部(bu)；東岳殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，1922年(nian)(nian)出租(zu)給昆劇業余(yu)(yu)劇團，1959年(nian)(nian)東岳殿(dian)(dian)(dian)失(shi)(shi)火燒毀，1961年(nian)(nian)該殿(dian)(dian)(dian)山(shan)門(men)及殿(dian)(dian)(dian)址由影劇公(gong)司(si)使用；斗姆閣，解放前(qian)為(wei)(wei)(wei)攤販(fan)公(gong)會使用，抗戰(zhan)勝利后被(bei)典賣(mai)給居民，現(xian)(xian)(xian)為(wei)(wei)(wei)民居；祖師(shi)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，1937年(nian)(nian)蘇州(zhou)淪陷(xian)時毀，現(xian)(xian)(xian)為(wei)(wei)(wei)輕工(gong)門(men)市部(bu)；八仙殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，1931年(nian)(nian)坍毀，現(xian)(xian)(xian)為(wei)(wei)(wei)菜場(chang)(chang)；三官殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，1931年(nian)(nian)借給春苑茶館，現(xian)(xian)(xian)為(wei)(wei)(wei)茶場(chang)(chang)；水府殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，1931年(nian)(nian)造國(guo)貨公(gong)司(si)時，將(jiang)北(bei)局觀(guan)前(qian)菜場(chang)(chang)遷移至此，殿(dian)(dian)(dian)被(bei)拆(chai)掉(diao)；關帝殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，1937年(nian)(nian)日機轟(hong)炸被(bei)震坍，現(xian)(xian)(xian)為(wei)(wei)(wei)花木盆景公(gong)司(si)；痘司(si)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，30年(nian)(nian)代被(bei)典押后成為(wei)(wei)(wei)民居。今仍屬(shu)道教使用的除正山(shan)門(men)、三清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)外，尚有火神殿(dian)(dian)(dian)、財神殿(dian)(dian)(dian)、星宿殿(dian)(dian)(dian)、雷(lei)尊殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，其余(yu)(yu)的則后來(lai)又被(bei)有關單位占用或拆(chai)除。

玄妙(miao)觀內(nei)(nei)文(wen)化積淀深厚(hou)，民間(jian)傳說動人，舊(jiu)有(you)(you)十(shi)(shi)八景之(zhi)說，分(fen)別為元趙(zhao)孟(meng)頫所(suo)書玄妙(miao)觀重(zhong)修山門(men)碑、麒麟照(zhao)墻、朝(chao)北玄帝銅殿、六(liu)角亭、釘釘石(shi)欄桿(gan)、一(yi)(yi)步(bu)三條橋、無字(zi)碑、海(hai)星(xing)壇、一(yi)(yi)人弄、楊(yang)芝畫、運木古井(jing)、妙(miao)一(yi)(yi)統元匾額、靠(kao)天吃飯(fan)圖碑，如今十(shi)(shi)八景中還保存九處。玄妙(miao)觀文(wen)物中著名(ming)的(de)還有(you)(you)歷(li)代碑刻，有(you)(you)老子(zi)像(xiang)碑、永(yong)禁機匠叫歇碑等等計有(you)(you)八十(shi)(shi)一(yi)(yi)塊(kuai)。除部(bu)(bu)分(fen)收(shou)藏(zang)在文(wen)廟外，還余(yu)下不(bu)少(shao)成為碑廊(lang)，現藏(zang)在輕工門(men)市(shi)部(bu)(bu)夾弄內(nei)(nei)，歷(li)劫不(bu)滅，彌足(zu)珍(zhen)貴。

玄妙觀(guan)值得一(yi)提的(de)(de)還(huan)(huan)有正山門(men)八(ba)字照(zhao)墻(qiang)，當年(nian)(nian)為此還(huan)(huan)掀起(qi)過一(yi)場軒然大波(bo)。照(zhao)墻(qiang)前原有一(yi)排平(ping)屋，有七、八(ba)家商(shang)鋪，1930年(nian)(nian)觀(guan)前街拓寬(kuan)，影響這些商(shang)鋪，德記地(di)產公司出面向玄妙觀(guan)方丈(zhang)顏品笙協商(shang)拆除照(zhao)墻(qiang)，租用兩側地(di)基，搭屋經(jing)商(shang)，條件(jian)是訂約(yue)十五年(nian)(nian)，付給押金一(yi)萬元。此舉一(yi)出，引起(qi)地(di)方人(ren)士反對，形成“保古派”與(yu)“保商(shang)派”之爭，后經(jing)江蘇省建設廳(ting)批準，正山門(men)兩端建起(qi)了與(yu)玄妙觀(guan)極不(bu)協調的(de)(de)三(san)層樓房(fang)，道觀(guan)古樸肅穆的(de)(de)風貌從此不(bu)復再現。

玄妙觀三清殿之后，原(yuan)有(you)一座始建于(yu)明(ming)正統(tong)三年(1438)的彌羅(luo)寶(bao)閣(ge)(ge)。閣(ge)(ge)高3層，闊9間，飛檐翹(qiao)角，高聳云天，十分壯觀。所供神像，上層是萬(wan)皇(huang)帝(di)主，左(zuo)右(you)配(pei)祀(si)28星(xing)宿；底層是萬(wan)地帝(di)主，左(zuo)右(you)配(pei)祀(si)60花甲星(xing)宿。露(lu)臺石刻尤(you)稱(cheng)珍貴，轉角處嵌(qian)有(you)畫像石，一刻□爵祿來(lai)同像，一刻掛印(yin)封侯像，另一面刻有(you)八蠻(man)進寶(bao)圖。露(lu)臺扶(fu)欄亦有(you)精美石雕，古氣(qi)磅(bang)礴，與(yu)山東(dong)武(wu)梁祠、郭巨(ju)墓漢畫石刻，神態逼肖，當為晉(jin)寧道院或唐開元宮(gong)之舊物(wu)。如此一座堪(kan)稱(cheng)蘇(su)州(zhou)樓閣(ge)(ge)之最的古建筑， 卻(que)不(bu)幸(xing)毀于(yu)民國(guo)元年(1912)8月(yue)28日(ri)晚的一場至(zhi)今(jin)原(yuan)因不(bu)明(ming)的大火之中。

葉圣(sheng)陶在(zai)失火(huo)(huo)當日(ri)(ri)日(ri)(ri)記(ji)中(zhong)記(ji)云(yun)：“入(ru)夜，紅光燭天(tian)(tian)，人聲(sheng)喧(xuan)沓，開門而望之(zhi)，在(zai)余家西北面，繼而鑼(luo)聲(sheng)四應矣。后(hou)(hou)知燒去者為(wei)觀里彌羅寶閣(ge)。此(ci)閣(ge)年(nian)代極(ji)古(gu)，工(gong)程(cheng)至鉅且(qie)精。偌(ruo)大(da)建筑(zhu)物付之(zhi)一炬，殊(shu)可(ke)惜(xi)，且(qie)守者止一二(er)人，石柱堅(jian)墻(qiang)何致(zhi)(zhi)起火(huo)(huo)？即著(zhu)火(huo)(huo)亦何致(zhi)(zhi)全毀(hui)？一般迷信家恐又將造出許多神話也(ye)。”翌日(ri)(ri)葉至現場(chang)察(cha)看(kan)后(hou)(hou)于日(ri)(ri)記(ji)中(zhong)寫道：“晨至頡剛處(chu)，幾伊(yi)亦來，乃偕(xie)赴觀里觀火(huo)(huo)場(chang)劫場(chang)。可(ke)憐莊嚴(yan)宮殿(dian)只剩碎瓦殘(can)灰，神鬼威力果何在(zai)哉！亦可(ke)稍示迷信家矣。然觀里為(wei)吳中(zhong)名勝，遠道來游(you)者至多，故觀里商業亦為(wei)蘇地冠(guan)，從此(ci)或將冷落矣。入(ru)訪詢起火(huo)(huo)原由，亦云(yun)不可(ke)得知，徒知先有火(huo)(huo)在(zai)第二(er)層(ceng)，而第二(er)層(ceng)樓(lou)則(ze)常閉者也(ye)。”又圣(sheng)昌熾(chi)《緣督廬日(ri)(ri)記(ji)》壬子年(nian)七月十(shi)六日(ri)(ri)記(ji)云(yun)：“晚(wan)餐正(zheng)陳，陡(dou)聞樓(lou)上(shang)驚呼聲(sheng)，一舉首則(ze)霄半(ban)有光煜然，墻(qiang)壁窗牖皆如倒景反射，再視(shi)則(ze)紅火(huo)(huo)燭天(tian)(tian)矣。亟登樓(lou)視(shi)之(zhi)，白煙蓬蓬而起，火(huo)(huo)星飛爆(bao)，如萬弩之(zhi)齊發，寂無警笛耳輪，但聞膈(ge)膊聲(sheng)。自夜七鐘半(ban)，焚至八鐘半(ban)始(shi)熄(xi)。”偌(ruo)大(da)一座樓(lou)閣(ge)化為(wei)灰燼。是失火(huo)(huo)？還是縱火(huo)(huo)？至今仍是謎(mi)。

中山(shan)堂即在彌羅(luo)寶閣(ge)原址建造，現為影劇公司占用。

主要景點

玄妙觀

玄妙觀三清(qing)殿于(yu)1982年(nian)2月列(lie)為全(quan)國重(zhong)點文物保護單位。

玄妙觀極盛(sheng)時有(you)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)宇30余座(zuo)，是(shi)當時全(quan)國(guo)最大(da)(da)的道(dao)觀。現有(you)山門、主殿(dian)(dian)(dian)（三(san)(san)清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)）、副(fu) 殿(dian)(dian)(dian)（彌(mi)(mi)羅寶(bao)閣）及21座(zuo)配(pei)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)。 山門雄偉高聳，上(shang)懸康熙帝(di)御筆賜(si)額“圓妙觀”。南宋淳熙 六年(nian)（1179年(nian)）重建的主殿(dian)(dian)(dian)三(san)(san)清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)面(mian)闊9間，進深6間，高約(yue)30米， 建筑面(mian)積1125平(ping)方米，重檐歇山，巍峨壯麗，是(shi)江(jiang)南一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)帶現存(cun)最 大(da)(da)的宋代木構(gou)建筑。殿(dian)(dian)(dian)中(zhong)須彌(mi)(mi)座(zuo)上(shang)供高17米泥塑貼金的3尊(zun)神像(xiang)(xiang)， 正中(zhong)是(shi)元始天尊(zun)，兩旁是(shi)靈寶(bao)天尊(zun)和道(dao)德(de)天尊(zun)，俗稱(cheng)(cheng)三(san)(san)清(qing)(qing)。神像(xiang)(xiang) 高大(da)(da)莊嚴，是(shi)宋代道(dao)教(jiao)塑像(xiang)(xiang)中(zhong)的上(shang)品。三(san)(san)清(qing)(qing)中(zhong)道(dao)德(de)天尊(zun)又稱(cheng)(cheng)太上(shang) 老君(jun)，傳(chuan)為老子(zi)李耳。其像(xiang)(xiang)座(zuo)有(you)老君(jun)像(xiang)(xiang)石刻(ke)，為唐(tang)吳道(dao)子(zi)繪像(xiang)(xiang)，唐(tang)玄宗題贊，顏真卿書，由宋代刻(ke)石高手張允(yun)迪(di)摹(mo)刻(ke)，可稱(cheng)(cheng)“四 絕”碑，是(shi)目(mu)前(qian)國(guo)內(nei)僅存(cun)的兩塊老子(zi)像(xiang)(xiang)碑之一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)。 三(san)(san)清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)西山墻有(you)60根大(da)(da)青石六面(mian)柱，每面(mian)刻(ke)有(you)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)天尊(zun)像(xiang)(xiang)，共 刻(ke)360天尊(zun)像(xiang)(xiang)，合(he)周年(nian)數(shu)。 玄妙觀前(qian)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)條街名觀前(qian)街，為蘇州的主要商業街之一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)。

三清殿

三(san)清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)為(wei)(wei)玄妙觀正殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，南(nan)宋(song)淳熙六(liu)年(nian)(1179)重(zhong)建。重(zhong)檐(yan)歇山造(zao)，面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)闊9間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)，廣45.64米(mi)，進(jin)(jin)深(shen)6間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)，深(shen)25.25米(mi)，通(tong)高(gao)(gao)(gao)約27米(mi)，面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)闊與進(jin)(jin)深(shen)之(zhi)(zhi)比為(wei)(wei)9：5。殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)柱(zhu)(zhu)排(pai)列(lie)，縱橫(heng)成行，內(nei)(nei)外(wai)(wai)一致(zhi)，共(gong)有(you)7列(lie)，每列(lie)10柱(zhu)(zhu)， 無(wu)(wu)“減(jian)柱(zhu)(zhu)”或“移柱(zhu)(zhu)”，俗稱“滿堂柱(zhu)(zhu)”。四周檐(yan)柱(zhu)(zhu)為(wei)(wei)八角(jiao)石(shi)(shi)柱(zhu)(zhu)，共(gong)30根(gen)；殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)內(nei)(nei)諸柱(zhu)(zhu)除內(nei)(nei)槽(cao)中(zhong)央三(san)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)4根(gen)后(hou)(hou)金柱(zhu)(zhu)為(wei)(wei)抹角(jiao)石(shi)(shi)柱(zhu)(zhu)外(wai)(wai)，均(jun)(jun)為(wei)(wei)圓木(mu)柱(zhu)(zhu)，共(gong) 36根(gen)。柱(zhu)(zhu)礎均(jun)(jun)為(wei)(wei)連(lian)磉有(you)唇覆盆式(shi)(shi)，檐(yan)柱(zhu)(zhu)礎上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)再施(shi)仿木(mu)質八角(jiao)形(xing)石(shi)(shi)柱(zhu)(zhu)腳，殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)內(nei)(nei)木(mu)柱(zhu)(zhu)則于(yu)礎上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)加石(shi)(shi)鼓(gu)。下檐(yan)斗(dou)(dou)(dou)拱(gong)(gong)為(wei)(wei)四鋪(pu)單昂(ang)(ang)(ang)(ang)(ang)，昂(ang)(ang)(ang)(ang)(ang)的下緣向上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)微微反曲(qu)。柱(zhu)(zhu)頭(tou)(tou)鋪(pu)作(zuo)昂(ang)(ang)(ang)(ang)(ang)嘴實(shi)(shi)為(wei)(wei)內(nei)(nei)檐(yan)華(hua)拱(gong)(gong)的延長，其(qi)(qi)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)承月(yue)梁(liang)。梁(liang)頭(tou)(tou)伸(shen)出作(zuo)耍頭(tou)(tou)，斫作(zuo)宋(song)式(shi)(shi)梢(shao)頭(tou)(tou)。補間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)鋪(pu)作(zuo)皆用真昂(ang)(ang)(ang)(ang)(ang)，后(hou)(hou)尾挑(tiao)起，以(yi)承托下平(ping)西(xi)方(fang)(fang)(fang)槫下的令拱(gong)(gong)，即《營造(zao)法(fa)式(shi)(shi)》上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)的“飛昂(ang)(ang)(ang)(ang)(ang)”制度。上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)檐(yan)柱(zhu)(zhu)頭(tou)(tou)與補間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)鋪(pu)作(zuo)均(jun)(jun)為(wei)(wei)重(zhong)昂(ang)(ang)(ang)(ang)(ang)，結(jie)構(gou)完全(quan)一致(zhi)，但僅(jin)為(wei)(wei)華(hua)拱(gong)(gong)前(qian)端(duan)做(zuo)出假(jia)昂(ang)(ang)(ang)(ang)(ang)，其(qi)(qi)后(hou)(hou)并無(wu)(wu)昂(ang)(ang)(ang)(ang)(ang)挑(tiao)起的杠桿作(zuo)用。至于(yu)內(nei)(nei)槽(cao)斗(dou)(dou)(dou)拱(gong)(gong)，則于(yu)重(zhong)抄之(zhi)(zhi)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)，前(qian)后(hou)(hou)兩(liang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)用“上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)昂(ang)(ang)(ang)(ang)(ang)”成為(wei)(wei)“六(liu)鋪(pu)作(zuo)重(zhong)抄上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)昂(ang)(ang)(ang)(ang)(ang)斗(dou)(dou)(dou)拱(gong)(gong)”結(jie)構(gou)，為(wei)(wei)國(guo)內(nei)(nei)孤例(li)。在(zai)櫨斗(dou)(dou)(dou)兩(liang)側，結(jie)構(gou)完全(quan)對稱，較《營造(zao)法(fa)式(shi)(shi)》所載上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)昂(ang)(ang)(ang)(ang)(ang)做(zuo)法(fa)更為(wei)(wei)簡(jian)化。又(you)內(nei)(nei)槽(cao)內(nei)(nei)轉角(jiao)鋪(pu)作(zuo)，在(zai)后(hou)(hou)金柱(zhu)(zhu)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)都(dou)用插(cha)拱(gong)(gong)，即以(yi)丁頭(tou)(tou)拱(gong)(gong)插(cha)于(yu)柱(zhu)(zhu)內(nei)(nei)，無(wu)(wu)櫨斗(dou)(dou)(dou)，亦(yi)此殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)斗(dou)(dou)(dou)拱(gong)(gong)重(zhong)要特征，為(wei)(wei)國(guo)內(nei)(nei)現存最古(gu)實(shi)(shi)例(li)。內(nei)(nei)槽(cao)斗(dou)(dou)(dou)拱(gong)(gong)之(zhi)(zhi)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)，更施(shi)平(ping)棋，殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)的梁(liang)架結(jie)構(gou)，外(wai)(wai)槽(cao)梁(liang)架先施(shi)順木(mu)伏 串，次于(yu)柱(zhu)(zhu)頭(tou)(tou)鋪(pu)作(zuo)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)架月(yue)梁(liang)，復用襻間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)作(zuo)。月(yue)梁(liang)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)又(you)施(shi)櫨斗(dou)(dou)(dou)， 置十字交叉令拱(gong)(gong)，承上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)層(ceng)月(yue)梁(liang)與槫下柱(zhu)(zhu)頭(tou)(tou)枋(fang)。結(jie)構(gou)與《營造(zao)法(fa)式(shi)(shi)》亦(yi)能符(fu)合。內(nei)(nei)額除中(zhong)央四縫外(wai)(wai)，都(dou)于(yu)其(qi)(qi)下另加上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)枋(fang)，二者之(zhi)(zhi)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)用襻間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)鋪(pu)作(zuo)。殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)的內(nei)(nei)槽(cao)中(zhong)央5間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)后(hou)(hou)金柱(zhu)(zhu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)，筑磚(zhuan)壁達(da)內(nei)(nei)額下皮，壁前(qian)有(you)磚(zhuan)砌(qi)須(xu)彌座， 面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)闊3間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)，高(gao)(gao)(gao)1.75米(mi)，式(shi)(shi)樣(yang)略(lve)如《營造(zao)法(fa)式(shi)(shi)》而繁(fan)密過(guo)之(zhi)(zhi)。 上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)奉三(san)清(qing)像，趺坐于(yu)方(fang)(fang)(fang)座上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)，像高(gao)(gao)(gao)約6米(mi)，高(gao)(gao)(gao)于(yu)地面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)約10.5米(mi)，神態凝重(zhong)， 衣褶(zhe)生動，是(shi)古(gu)代(dai)道(dao)教造(zao)像中(zhong)的上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)品。殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)內(nei)(nei)壁間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)嵌有(you)碑石(shi)(shi)多方(fang)(fang)(fang)， 以(yi)南(nan)宋(song)寶慶元年(nian)(1225)所刻“太上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)老君像”最為(wei)(wei)珍(zhen)貴，像為(wei)(wei)唐代(dai)吳(wu)道(dao)子所繪，形(xing)貌蒼褶(zhe)流暢(chang)，上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)方(fang)(fang)(fang)有(you)顏(yan)真卿所書唐玄宗李隆基(ji)的“贊”四言(yan)十六(liu)句，刻工為(wei)(wei)張允迪。三(san)清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)臺(tai)基(ji)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)闊49.6米(mi)，進(jin)(jin)深(shen)29.5米(mi)，現高(gao)(gao)(gao)出周圍(wei)地面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)約1 米(mi)。前(qian)施(shi)月(yue)臺(tai)，面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)闊27.2米(mi)，進(jin)(jin)深(shen)16.3米(mi)，中(zhong)央立鐵鼎。正面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)與左、右(you)各(ge)踏(ta)跺，周以(yi)青石(shi)(shi)勾欄(lan)。臺(tai)基(ji)僅(jin)南(nan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)東、西(xi)梢(shao)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)及盡間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)有(you)石(shi)(shi)欄(lan)，與月(yue)臺(tai)石(shi)(shi)欄(lan)貫通(tong)，華(hua)版雕刻極細，內(nei)(nei)容有(you)人物、走獸、飛禽、水(shui)族(zu)、山水(shui)、云(yun)樹、亭閣等，頗為(wei)(wei)古(gu)樸生動，為(wei)(wei)宋(song)或宋(song)以(yi)前(qian)作(zuo)品。三(san)清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)是(shi)江蘇(su)最古(gu)的木(mu)結(jie)構(gou)建筑，也(ye)是(shi)國(guo)內(nei)(nei)現存體量最大的宋(song)代(dai)大殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)。

正山門

正山門(men)位于三清殿南約80米(mi)處，清乾隆四十年(1775)重建(jian)。重檐歇(xie)山造，面闊5間，廣(guang)20米(mi)，進深12米(mi)，于當心間脊柱間設斷砌門(men)。

如意門

如意門(西(xi)(xi)腳門)內(nei)的雷尊殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)初名雷神(shen)(shen)蓼，亦為坐北朝南的重(zhong)檐(yan)歇山(shan)式(shi)建(jian)(jian)筑，明(ming)天(tian)(tian)順二年(1458)建(jian)(jian)，清(qing)康熙四年(1665)重(zhong)修，面闊3間(jian)，廣(guang)16米(mi)，進深14米(mi)，前加(jia)卷棚頂(ding)軒廊(lang)3間(jian)，與下檐(yan)形成勾連搭(da)屋(wu)頂(ding)，通進深21米(mi)，梁架結(jie)構及柱礎制均(jun)有(you)(you)明(ming)代特(te)征，殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)南尚(shang)存山(shan)門3間(jian)。此(ci)外，觀內(nei)現存殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)閣，東有(you)(you)財(cai)神(shen)(shen)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、天(tian)(tian)醫藥王(wang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、火神(shen)(shen)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、斗姆閣等(deng)，西(xi)(xi)有(you)(you)觀音殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三官殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)等(deng)，北有(you)(you)蓑衣真人殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、方(fang)丈殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)等(deng)，多數為晚清(qing)重(zhong)建(jian)(jian)。

保存(cun)在觀內碑(bei)刻有數十種，上(shang)起宋代(dai)，下(xia)迄清末。

通神先生(sheng)何(he)蓑(suo)衣事實碑 在(zai)蓑(suo)衣真人殿。碑高1.55米(mi)、寬1.08米(mi)，胡袤撰，宋孝宗脊題“通神庵”三字，南宋慶元(yuan)三年(nian)(1197)刻石。

詔建三清大(da)殿(dian)上梁文碑 在(zai)祖師(shi)殿(dian)遺址碑廊。碑高(gao)1.62米、寬0.93米，南宋淳熙八年(nian)(nian)(1181)龔頤正撰，嘉定十一年(nian)(nian)(1218)立石，張允迪刻，原在(zai)三清殿(dian)。

老君像碑 在頤正殿。碑高1.8米、寬0.91米，吳道子(zi)畫，唐玄宗李隆基(ji)贊，顏真(zhen)卿書，馮(feng)大(da)同跋，張允迪刻，南宋(song)寶慶元年(nian)(1225)立(li)石(shi)。

朝(chao)旨蠲免天慶觀道(dao)正司科敷度牒尚(shang)書(shu)省札部(bu)符使帖(tie)碑 在三(san)清殿。高1.97米、寬1.08米，頂端抹(mo)角，南宋端平(ping)元年(1234)立。

清理道教(jiao)碑(bei)(bei)(bei) 在三(san)清殿外(wai)東(dong)側。高6.5米(mi)、寬2.7米(mi)，方(fang)孝孺撰并書，明洪武中年(1371)立，后方(fang)氏被誅，碑(bei)(bei)(bei)文被劃去，故俗稱無字碑(bei)(bei)(bei)。

重修(xiu)三清(qing)殿記碑 在火神殿南小弄內。高1.66米(mi)、寬0.9米(mi)，王(wang)進撰，衛靖書，張徽篆額(e)，明宣德四年(nian)(1429)呂志清(qing)立石，左上角殘缺，碑文已(yi)漫漶。

重修玄妙觀五岳樓記碑(bei) 現(xian)存祖師遺址(zhi)碑(bei)廊。高1.15米、寬0.66米，李(li)杰撰，陳昌言刻(ke)，明弘治十六年(1503)立，原置東岳殿。

玄妙觀三清(qing)殿至(zhi)今已有八百多年(nian)歷史，九開間的(de)(de)宏殿巍峨軒昂，原來(lai)說是(shi)在(zai)江南絕無僅有，后來(lai)文物(wu)專家羅哲文來(lai)蘇考察，說是(shi)全國(guo)也沒(mei)有這樣巨大的(de)(de)南宋建(jian)筑( 其氣勢只有北京故宮的(de)(de)太和殿和曲阜孔廟大成殿可(ke)與之相比、但這些建(jian)筑的(de)(de)年(nian)代(dai)都遠(yuan)遠(yuan)晚于南宋)， 所以(yi)三清(qing)殿稱(cheng)為國(guo)寶當之無愧！

集市特色

玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)(guan)為全國著名道觀(guan)(guan)，又是歷(li)史悠久的傳統集市。馮(feng)夢龍《警(jing)世通言(yan)》無礙居士(shi)序(xu)中說：“吾頃(qing)從玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)(guan)聽說《三國志》來。”說明玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)(guan)在(zai)明天啟年(nian)間已有露天書場。至清代設攤者日多(duo)，遂演變成為古城中心一(yi)處熱鬧的集市，有小吃(chi)、日用雜(za)品(pin)、文具玩具、對聯字畫、花(hua)鳥魚蟲(chong)的攤店(dian)以及醫卜星相、江湖雜(za)耍(shua)等(deng)等(deng)，五(wu)花(hua)八門，不(bu)一(yi)而足(zu)。茲就昔日報(bao)刊所載30年(nian)代前(qian)后玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)(guan)集市狀況略舉一(yi)二，以見其概(gai)貌(mao)。

小吃特色

玄妙(miao)觀(guan)的小(xiao)(xiao)吃(chi)，名目繁多，如小(xiao)(xiao)米子糖(tang)、灰湯粽、氽魷魚、熏(xun)魚、涼粉(fen)、藕粉(fen)、千張百(bai)頁、酒釀圓子、豆(dou)腐花、糖(tang)粥、梅花糕、海棠糕、焐酥豆(dou)、五香茶葉蛋(dan)、雞鴨血(xue)湯，其余如面、小(xiao)(xiao)籠饅(man)頭(tou)、鍋貼(tie)、燒賣(mai)、餛飩(tun)、湯團(tuan)等(deng)(deng)等(deng)(deng)，應有(you)盡有(you)。著名的攤店(dian)，有(you)專售梨膏糖(tang)的文魁(kui)齋(zhai)、觀(guan)振興面店(dian)、王源興酒釀豆(dou)漿店(dian)、小(xiao)(xiao)有(you)天(tian)藕粉(fen)店(dian)、五芳(fang)齋(zhai)、六(liu)芳(fang)齋(zhai)、七芳(fang)齋(zhai)等(deng)(deng)等(deng)(deng)，還有(you)百(bai)年(nian)以(yi)(yi)上歷(li)史的三萬(wan)思、品芳(fang)兩家茶館。可以(yi)(yi)說(shuo)玄妙(miao)觀(guan)是蘇州(zhou)小(xiao)(xiao)吃(chi)最為集中的地方。

年畫特色

三清殿內是傳統的年畫(hua)(hua)市場，出(chu)售桃花塢出(chu)版(ban)的各種畫(hua)(hua)張(zhang)，如神(shen)(shen)軸、灶(zao)神(shen)(shen)、門(men)神(shen)(shen)、百(bai)壽圖、送子(zi)圖、鳳(feng)穿(chuan)牡丹、魚跳龍門(men)、歲寒(han)三友(you)、梅開(kai)五福、岳飛抗金、關羽夜讀(du)春(chun)秋、二(er)十四孝等等，民國以后上海(hai)的彩印美女圖、風景(jing)畫(hua)(hua)進(jin)入觀內，受到大眾(zhong)歡迎(ying)。另有對聯、立(li)軸，并可請名(ming)家當(dang)場揮毫，其中最(zui)著名(ming)者(zhe)汪煥(huan)文(度)，自號“鄧尉(wei)山農”，在(zai)三清殿書寫(xie)對聯數十年之久。

觀內(nei)空地經常演(yan)出各種江湖雜耍(shua)，有變戲(xi)法、木偶戲(xi)、耍(shua)猴戲(xi)、西洋(yang)鏡、唱(chang)小熱昏(hun)、賣拳頭、說露天書等等。鑼鼓響(xiang)處，圍滿人群(qun)，熙熙攘攘，熱鬧非凡(fan)。

醫卜星相更

醫卜星相(xiang)更是玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)一(yi)(yi)(yi)大(da)特色(se)，有(you)(you)祖(zu)傳秘方、專(zhuan)治(zhi)氣(qi)喘、癆疾(ji)、筋骨酸疼的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)江(jiang)湖郎中(zhong)，有(you)(you)撥牙的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)牙醫，有(you)(you)主治(zhi)跌打(da)損(sun)傷的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)傷科等(deng)等(deng)。遠近聞名(ming)(ming)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)葛云彬、謝明(ming)德都(dou)曾在此掛(gua)牌(pai)(pai)設攤(tan)(tan)(tan)。算命、相(xiang)面、測字(zi)(zi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)集(ji)中(zhong)在東腳(jiao)門(men)至(zhi)牛角浜一(yi)(yi)(yi)路，有(you)(you)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)當街設一(yi)(yi)(yi)桌一(yi)(yi)(yi)椅(yi)，有(you)(you)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)設館，總(zong)稱“巾(jin)(jin)行(xing)”，七十二巾(jin)(jin)可謂(wei)樣(yang)樣(yang)齊(qi)全。有(you)(you)量手(shou)曰(yue)“量巾(jin)(jin)”，鳥銜設牌(pai)(pai)曰(yue)“鳥巾(jin)(jin)”，拉(la)胡(hu)琴(qin)曰(yue)“夾絲(si)巾(jin)(jin)”，敲搭板小鑼(luo)曰(yue)“響巾(jin)(jin)”，相(xiang)面曰(yue)“斬盤搶(qiang)巾(jin)(jin)”，批(pi)八字(zi)(zi)曰(yue)“八黑”，搖課(ke)曰(yue)“圓頭”，拆字(zi)(zi)曰(yue)“小黑”，瞎子(zi)摸牌(pai)(pai)曰(yue)“觀(guan)梅”。相(xiang)面有(you)(you)手(shou)相(xiang)、摸骨相(xiang)等(deng)幾種(zhong)，以一(yi)(yi)(yi)鑒明(ming)(真名(ming)(ming)張(zhang)子(zi)芳)、朱(zhu)少卿(qing)最為(wei)(wei)(wei)有(you)(you)名(ming)(ming)。相(xiang)面兼算命的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)有(you)(you)四(si)明(ming)山(shan)人(ren)、王(wang)一(yi)(yi)(yi)舟等(deng)。算命兼堪輿(風水、 地(di)理、流(liu)年(nian)、合婚)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)，以楊鳳(feng)巢、蔣通天(tian)、凌云山(shan)、楊守(shou)成(cheng)(cheng)、 鄒慕鴻(hong)等(deng)為(wei)(wei)(wei)主。拆字(zi)(zi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)有(you)(you)談虎臣、張(zhang)天(tian)良(liang)等(deng)。起(qi)課(ke)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)有(you)(you)文王(wang)課(ke)、六壬課(ke)，以明(ming)如鏡為(wei)(wei)(wei)有(you)(you)名(ming)(ming)。還有(you)(you)鴻(hong)運來(lai)(lai)(真名(ming)(ming)泊(bo)良(liang))的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)烏龜測字(zi)(zi)，他(ta)把事先用膠水寫(xie)好的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)字(zi)(zi)條(tiao)，放在置有(you)(you)烏賊骨粉的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)烏龜殼內，搖動幾下便顯出(chu)字(zi)(zi)跡(ji)，以此吸引好奇者。他(ta)們或取號“賽諸葛”、“小神仙(xian)”，或自稱“能知過去未來(lai)(lai)，善斷(duan)吉兇(xiong)禍(huo)福(fu)”，舉(ju)凡男女(nv)婚配、家庭(ting)糾紛、生(sheng)老(lao)病死、官運財氣(qi)均是他(ta)們測算的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)范(fan)圍。俗話說(shuo)“江(jiang)湖一(yi)(yi)(yi)點訣，莫對妻子(zi)說(shuo)，若對妻子(zi)說(shuo)，飯都(dou)沒得(de)吃(chi)！”然而，明(ming)明(ming)是迷信(xin)騙局，卻有(you)(you)無(wu)數人(ren)找(zhao)到(dao)他(ta)們尋求慰藉(jie)，直(zhi)到(dao)解放后他(ta)們才由政府(fu)安排轉業(ye)。以上所(suo)述(shu)說(shuo)明(ming)，由于玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)歷史和地(di)理條(tiao)件，使它成(cheng)(cheng)為(wei)(wei)(wei)與北京(jing)天(tian)橋、南京(jing)夫子(zi)廟、上海老(lao)城隍廟齊(qi)名(ming)(ming)而又(you)具有(you)(you)蘇(su)(su)州地(di)方特色(se)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)熱(re)鬧場所(suo)。蘇(su)(su)州人(ren)常說(shuo)“白(bai)相(xiang)玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)”，外(wai)地(di)人(ren)到(dao)蘇(su)(su)州也必至(zhi)玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)一(yi)(yi)(yi)游，這已經(jing)(jing)成(cheng)(cheng)為(wei)(wei)(wei)人(ren)們的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)共識。隨著時(shi)代的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)發展(zhan)，玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)也在不斷(duan)發生(sheng)變(bian)化，但它既是古(gu)跡(ji)名(ming)(ming)勝，又(you)為(wei)(wei)(wei)傳統(tong)(tong)集(ji)市(shi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)這一(yi)(yi)(yi)基本性質和特點，始終未變(bian)，1956年(nian)，對玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)攤(tan)(tan)(tan)販進行(xing)整理，保持了(le)小吃(chi)為(wei)(wei)(wei)主的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)傳統(tong)(tong)特色(se)。“文化大(da)革(ge)命”期間，取消玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)集(ji)市(shi)。1979年(nian)12月，江(jiang)蘇(su)(su)省12市(shi)、縣糖果評展(zhan)會在玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)舉(ju)辦，隨后小吃(chi)攤(tan)(tan)(tan)、服裝攤(tan)(tan)(tan)、雜貨攤(tan)(tan)(tan)及縫(feng)紉攤(tan)(tan)(tan)擁塞觀(guan)內，成(cheng)(cheng)為(wei)(wei)(wei)蘇(su)(su)州恢復的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)集(ji)市(shi)。經(jing)(jing)多年(nian)整理和規劃，建起(qi)統(tong)(tong)一(yi)(yi)(yi)規格的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)售貨亭，西腳(jiao)門(men)甬(yong)道南段設20多個傳統(tong)(tong)小吃(chi)亭，北段有(you)(you)10多個縫(feng)紉攤(tan)(tan)(tan)；東腳(jiao)門(men)南段為(wei)(wei)(wei)服裝售貨亭，北段為(wei)(wei)(wei)修(xiu)補皮(pi)匠攤(tan)(tan)(tan)點；三清殿后興起(qi)漁網漁具市(shi)場。1985年(nian)，玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)內有(you)(you)157個攤(tan)(tan)(tan)位。

實用信息

門票：

10元（寺觀覽勝）；15元（姑蘇道教仙(xian)樂）；10元（道教飛鈸(ba)表演）。

公交：

乘坐1、102、146、178、202、502到觀(guan)前街(jie)（東、西或樂(le)橋）后(hou)，步行至街(jie)中段(duan)的玄妙(miao)觀(guan)內。

交通信息

可乘(cheng)游1東線到(dao)玄妙觀站下車(che)，或乘(cheng)2線 、1路(lu)、101路(lu)、38路(lu)等(deng)到(dao)觀前(qian)街站下車(che)。