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簡介

玄妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)是位于中國東南(nan)部著名旅游(you)城市(shi)蘇(su)州(zhou)的著名道觀(guan)(guan)(guan)，創建于公元(yuan)276年(nian)，最(zui)初(chu)名叫“真慶道院”，后來曾改稱(cheng)為(wei)“開元(yuan)宮”、“天慶觀(guan)(guan)(guan)”。公元(yuan)1295年(nian)元(yuan)朝皇(huang)帝下(xia)令改為(wei)玄妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)。玄妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)至今已有1700多年(nian)的歷史，所以被稱(cheng)為(wei)“江南(nan)第(di)一古觀(guan)(guan)(guan)”。

玄(xuan)妙觀坐落(luo)在蘇州古(gu)城(cheng)中(zhong)心，其主殿三清殿建成于(yu)南宋(song)(song)年間，是蘇州僅(jin)存(cun)的(de)(de)一(yi)座(zuo)南宋(song)(song)木構殿宇式建筑(zhu)，歷(li)史(shi)悠(you)久(jiu)、規(gui)模宏(hong)偉(wei)，在中(zhong)國建筑(zhu)史(shi)上(shang)具有重(zhong)要(yao)的(de)(de)歷(li)史(shi)價(jia)值，1982年被(bei)列(lie)為全(quan)國重(zhong)點文物保護(hu)單位。

現玄妙觀進行了修復整治，有(you)(you)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)堂七座，中(zhong)路(lu)有(you)(you)正(zheng)山門、三清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，東路(lu)有(you)(you)文(wen)昌殿(dian)(dian)(dian)、斗(dou)姆閣、壽星殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，西(xi)路(lu)有(you)(you)雷尊殿(dian)(dian)(dian)、財神殿(dian)(dian)(dian)。觀內(nei)有(you)(you)很多珍(zhen)貴的文(wen)物遺跡(ji)，道(dao)教文(wen)化內(nei)涵深厚,是(shi)中(zhong)國少(shao)有(you)(you)的完整道(dao)觀建筑(zhu)群，其中(zhong)三清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)現仍保(bao)留(liu)著宋(song)代建筑(zhu)的風貌(mao)與特(te)點。

玄妙(miao)(miao)觀歷史上曾是蘇(su)州(zhou)(zhou)宗教文化中心(xin)，現是蘇(su)州(zhou)(zhou)地(di)(di)區道教活動的(de)主要場所。由于(yu)優(you)越(yue)的(de)地(di)(di)理位(wei)置，眾多(duo)的(de)文物古跡以及豐富的(de)道教文化內涵，玄妙(miao)(miao)觀已(yi)成為(wei)蘇(su)州(zhou)(zhou)市著名(ming)的(de)旅游景點之一。

歷史沿革

蘇州香火最盛的地方并(bing)非佛教(jiao)寺廟，而是道教(jiao)的玄(xuan)妙觀。

玄妙觀始建(jian)于(yu)西晉，已有1700余年的(de)(de)歷史。觀內(nei)建(jian)于(yu)南宋(song)的(de)(de)三(san)清(qing)(qing)(qing)殿是江南最大的(de)(de)木構古建(jian)筑。殿內(nei)供奉(feng)的(de)(de)高達(da)17米的(de)(de)三(san)清(qing)(qing)(qing)（上清(qing)(qing)(qing)、玉清(qing)(qing)(qing)、太清(qing)(qing)(qing)）塑像，堪稱宋(song)代雕塑的(de)(de)上佳之作(zuo)。玄妙觀中現存有唐吳道(dao)子(zi)畫老君像、玄宗(zong)贊(zan)、顏真(zhen)卿書法等碑刻，彌足珍貴．

除三(san)清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)和正山門(men)外，玄妙觀(guan)還有歷代建成(cheng)(cheng)的副殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)和二十(shi)四座(zuo)配殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，從東腳門(men)依(yi)次為：神(shen)州殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan))、太(tai)陽宮(清(qing)(qing))、天(tian)醫藥王(wang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋(song)(song))、真官(guan)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan))、天(tian)后(hou)(hou)(hou)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing)(qing))、文(wen)昌殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing)(qing))、祖(zu)師殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan))、斗姆(mu)閣(清(qing)(qing) )、火神(shen)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing)(qing))、三(san)茅殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋(song)(song))、機(ji)房殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(明(ming))、關帝殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan))、東岳(yue)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋(song)(song))、痘司(si)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋(song)(song))等(deng)(deng)十(shi)四處，西(xi)(xi)腳門(men)配殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)依(yi)次為：雷尊(zun)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan))、壽(shou)星殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋(song)(song))、水(shui)府(fu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing)(qing))等(deng)(deng)七處。三(san)清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)后(hou)(hou)(hou)為彌羅寶閣，再后(hou)(hou)(hou)面(mian)是(shi)蓑(suo)衣真人殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋(song)(song))、肝胃殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing)(qing))、薩祖(zu)方丈(zhang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)。各殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)所(suo)供(gong)神(shen)像大都出(chu)自神(shen)話傳說，如太(tai)陽神(shen)、雷神(shen)、火神(shen)、關帝、文(wen)曲星、灶神(shen)、土(tu)地、八仙(xian)、壽(shou)星、觀(guan)音等(deng)(deng)，體現了蘇(su)州地方文(wen)化特色和民間信仰的色彩，曾是(shi)城鄉老(lao)百姓(xing)精神(shen)寄托和休閑(xian)娛樂的去所(suo)。從康熙十(shi)三(san)年(nian)(公(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)674年(nian))玄妙觀(guan)建筑群圖上可以看出(chu)東至(zhi)洙(zhu)泗(si)巷，西(xi)(xi)臨大成(cheng)(cheng)坊，北至(zhi)舊學(xue)前河(he)，南面(mian)有黃(huang)色照墻橫亙正山門(men)兩側，整個(ge)建筑群十(shi)分壯(zhuang)觀(guan)。彈丸之地集中了宋(song)(song)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)明(ming)清(qing)(qing)歷代殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇，真可謂是(shi)一座(zuo)古典建筑的博物(wu)館。

據(ju)道光《元妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)志》圖載，清(qing)代玄妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)盛時占地5.5萬平(ping)方米(mi)，共有30多(duo)座(zuo)殿(dian)(dian)閣(ge)。中(zhong)軸(zhou)線上自南而(er)北(bei)依次(ci)為(wei)正山門(men)、三清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)、彌羅寶閣(ge)，其他(ta)殿(dian)(dian)閣(ge)分布(bu)在25處(chu)自成(cheng)(cheng)院落的(de)(de)“子院”內，如眾星拱(gong)月般從東、西、北(bei)三面圍(wei)繞著中(zhong)軸(zhou)線上的(de)(de)主要(yao)殿(dian)(dian)閣(ge)，形(xing)成(cheng)(cheng)一片(pian)巍峨壯麗(li)的(de)(de)建筑群。但自咸豐、同(tong)治之際遭受戰火后，即漸趨衰落，未能恢復(fu)舊(jiu)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)，宏偉的(de)(de)彌羅寶閣(ge)也于(yu)民(min)國元年(1912)8月28日失火焚毀。1956年，整修三清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)、正山門(men)及東、西諸殿(dian)(dian)門(men)墻，清(qing)理(li)廣庭。同(tong)年，玄妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)三清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)被(bei)列(lie)為(wei)省(sheng)文物(wu)保護單(dan)位。1966年后遭受損(sun)壞，1981年再修三清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)及正山門(men)。1982年，玄妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)三清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)被(bei)列(lie)為(wei)全國重點(dian)文物(wu)保護單(dan)位。

蘇(su)州市政府又連續撥巨(ju)款(kuan)重(zhong)修玄妙觀正山門和三清(qing)殿，殿內神像(xiang)重(zhong)塑金(jin)身，已(yi)于(yu)1999年(nian)元(yuan)月開光(guang)慶典。

玄妙觀(guan)多數殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇各(ge)(ge)有(you)山(shan)(shan)(shan)門(men)(men)(men)、照墻，觀(guan)內(nei)(nei)(nei)廣(guang)場(chang)商販與(yu)百戲雜陳。觀(guan)內(nei)(nei)(nei)方(fang)(fang)(fang)丈殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)為(wei)穹窿山(shan)(shan)(shan)上真(zhen)觀(guan)下(xia)院(yuan)，直(zhi)至(zhi)(zhi)民(min)國初，該殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)振法(fa)堂內(nei)(nei)(nei)高懸戒規，內(nei)(nei)(nei)容主(zhu)要有(you)不準娶家室、不準目無師(shi)(shi)長(chang)等。違反戒規者(zhe)，輕則重責、重則開除(俗稱“貼革(ge)條”)。方(fang)(fang)(fang)丈為(wei)一(yi)觀(guan)之(zhi)主(zhu)。民(min)國元(yuan)(yuan)年(nian)(nian)(nian)8月28日，大廈三(san)(san)(san)層、飛甍隆棟的(de)(de)彌(mi)羅(luo)寶(bao)閣失火(huo)(huo)焚(fen)毀(hui)，內(nei)(nei)(nei)僅金身(shen)神像(xiang)就有(you)380余(yu)尊(zun)，閶門(men)(men)(men)外十房(fang)(fang)(fang)莊淘沙戶曾擬出(chu)(chu)資1萬元(yuan)(yuan)承包清(qing)除火(huo)(huo)場(chang)垃圾。方(fang)(fang)(fang)丈倪仰(yang)云因失火(huo)(huo)被(bei)(bei)提出(chu)(chu)公(gong)訴并(bing)辭職，自此(ci)方(fang)(fang)(fang)丈威信大降，戒規松(song)弛。方(fang)(fang)(fang)丈管2房(fang)(fang)(fang)、6殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)。至(zhi)(zhi)北伐時，方(fang)(fang)(fang)丈殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)還有(you)五(wu)六(liu)處山(shan)(shan)(shan)房(fang)(fang)(fang)，近(jin)百間(jian)屋(wu)。各(ge)(ge)房(fang)(fang)(fang)輪流執管殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)事，有(you)帳房(fang)(fang)(fang)、文(wen)書及(ji)香(xiang)工10余(yu)人(ren)，廚(chu)師(shi)(shi)2人(ren)。其(qi)余(yu)12房(fang)(fang)(fang)分掌一(yi)至(zhi)(zhi)二、三(san)(san)(san)座殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，實各(ge)(ge)為(wei)一(yi)獨立道(dao)(dao)院(yuan)。22年(nian)(nian)(nian)太(tai)陽(yang)宮住持(chi)許(xu)鶴梅曾去(qu)上海合伙開設(she)玄妙觀(guan)分院(yuan)，一(yi)年(nian)(nian)(nian)后因生(sheng)意不好而收歇。20年(nian)(nian)(nian)代至(zhi)(zhi)抗日戰爭中(zhong)，祖師(shi)(shi)、灶君、八仙(xian)、壽(shou)星(xing)、水府(fu)、關(guan)帝諸(zhu)(zhu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)相繼(ji)圮(pi)廢(fei)、改建或被(bei)(bei)日機(ji)(ji)轟炸震坍。三(san)(san)(san)清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)內(nei)(nei)(nei)擺滿字畫攤(tan)，屋(wu)面被(bei)(bei)敵(di)偽人(ren)員捉鴿子踐(jian)踏得嚴重漏雨。機(ji)(ji)房(fang)(fang)(fang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)曾開設(she)賭場(chang)，長(chang)期出(chu)(chu)租和(he)被(bei)(bei)典賣(mai)的(de)(de)有(you)神州殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)和(he)痘司殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)。民(min)國6、32、33和(he)35年(nian)(nian)(nian)曾先(xian)后修(xiu)葺東(dong)岳(yue)、真(zhen)官、雷(lei)尊(zun)和(he)觀(guan)音(yin)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，但(dan)其(qi)余(yu)諸(zhu)(zhu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)日趨破(po)敗。近(jin)解放時正山(shan)(shan)(shan)門(men)(men)(men)淪(lun)為(wei)銀元(yuan)(yuan)市場(chang)。至(zhi)(zhi)1949年(nian)(nian)(nian)存(cun)正山(shan)(shan)(shan)門(men)(men)(men)及(ji)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)17座(即三(san)(san)(san)清(qing)、方(fang)(fang)(fang)丈、真(zhen)人(ren)、肝(gan)胃(wei)、藥王(wang)、東(dong)岳(yue)、火(huo)(huo)神、三(san)(san)(san)茅、天(tian)后、真(zhen)官、文(wen)昌、機(ji)(ji)房(fang)(fang)(fang)、三(san)(san)(san)官、雷(lei)尊(zun)、觀(guan)音(yin)諸(zhu)(zhu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)及(ji)斗(dou)姆(mu)閣、太(tai)陽(yang)宮)。1952年(nian)(nian)(nian)有(you)道(dao)(dao)士(shi)33人(ren)，家屬83人(ren)，香(xiang)工6人(ren)；有(you)屋(wu)523.5間(jian)，內(nei)(nei)(nei)自用200間(jian)，余(yu)多出(chu)(chu)租。1956年(nian)(nian)(nian)統計(ji)，占(zhan)地(di)51.72畝，神像(xiang)519尊(zun)，同年(nian)(nian)(nian)將(jiang)廣(guang)場(chang)周(zhou)圍600余(yu)戶店攤(tan)居(ju)民(min)遷出(chu)(chu)，斗(dou)姆(mu)閣改建為(wei)書畫店。1957年(nian)(nian)(nian)全(quan)觀(guan)收入：房(fang)(fang)(fang)地(di)租454元(yuan)(yuan)，香(xiang)火(huo)(huo)94元(yuan)(yuan)，法(fa)事29元(yuan)(yuan)，其(qi)他343元(yuan)(yuan)。1958年(nian)(nian)(nian)11月道(dao)(dao)教學習(xi)會直(zhi)接掌管三(san)(san)(san)清(qing)、星(xing)宿(su)(原屬觀(guan)音(yin)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，1956年(nian)(nian)(nian)將(jiang)在清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)花(hua)甲(jia)星(xing)宿(su)塑像(xiang)遷入，故名)兩(liang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)及(ji)雷(lei)尊(zun)、火(huo)(huo)神的(de)(de)大殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)部分，余(yu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)除留少量道(dao)(dao)士(shi)自住外，都交(jiao)給房(fang)(fang)(fang)管局管理，13道(dao)(dao)房(fang)(fang)(fang)至(zhi)(zhi)此(ci)消(xiao)失。1959年(nian)(nian)(nian)東(dong)岳(yue)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)焚(fen)毀(hui)。該殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)內(nei)(nei)(nei)的(de)(de)五(wu)岳(yue)樓(lou)(lou)，構建工巧，四面殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇，中(zhong)峙一(yi)樓(lou)(lou)，“大躍進(jin)”中(zhong)全(quan)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)拆去(qu)。1964年(nian)(nian)(nian)市政(zheng)府(fu)又(you)撥款(kuan)整修(xiu)，三(san)(san)(san)清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)與(yu)正山(shan)(shan)(shan)門(men)(men)(men)油漆一(yi)新，廣(guang)場(chang)中(zhong)遍植(zhi)綠樹草(cao)茵。“文(wen)化(hua)大革(ge)命”起，除三(san)(san)(san)清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)神像(xiang)幸獲保(bao)存(cun)(“玉清(qing)”神像(xiang)的(de)(de)頭部被(bei)(bei)砍)外，其(qi)余(yu)神像(xiang)、道(dao)(dao)經、科書被(bei)(bei)焚(fen)燒數晝夜，銅(tong)像(xiang)8尊(zun)亦被(bei)(bei)毀(hui)，三(san)(san)(san)清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)一(yi)度改為(wei)收租院(yuan)泥塑展覽會，兩(liang)廊各(ge)(ge)配殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)在 60～70年(nian)(nian)(nian)代陸續(xu)改作(zuo)商店、倉庫、菜場(chang)。

其(qi)間失去的(de)(de)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇分別(bie)為(wei)彌羅寶閣，1912年(nian)(nian)失火(huo)(huo)焚(fen)毀(hui)，原(yuan)地改(gai)建(jian)中山(shan)(shan)堂；灶(zao)君殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，1917年(nian)(nian)出(chu)借(jie)給同(tong)仁救(jiu)火(huo)(huo)會(hui)，1930年(nian)(nian)被(bei)(bei)會(hui)擅自拆除(chu)改(gai)建(jian)，后為(wei)勞保用(yong)品(pin)商店(dian)；太陽宮，1914年(nian)(nian)為(wei)吳縣(xian)黃天源糕(gao)團店(dian)門(men)(men)市部；東岳(yue)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，1922年(nian)(nian)出(chu)租給昆劇(ju)業余劇(ju)團，1959年(nian)(nian)東岳(yue)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)失火(huo)(huo)燒毀(hui)，1961年(nian)(nian)該(gai)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)山(shan)(shan)門(men)(men)及殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)址(zhi)由影劇(ju)公(gong)司(si)使用(yong)；斗姆閣，解放前(qian)為(wei)攤(tan)販(fan)公(gong)會(hui)使用(yong)，抗(kang)戰勝利(li)后被(bei)(bei)典賣給居(ju)民，現為(wei)民居(ju)；祖師殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，1937年(nian)(nian)蘇州淪陷時毀(hui)，現為(wei)輕工(gong)門(men)(men)市部；八(ba)仙殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，1931年(nian)(nian)坍毀(hui)，現為(wei)菜(cai)場；三官殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，1931年(nian)(nian)借(jie)給春苑(yuan)茶館，現為(wei)茶場；水府(fu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，1931年(nian)(nian)造國貨公(gong)司(si)時，將北局觀前(qian)菜(cai)場遷移至此，殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)被(bei)(bei)拆掉(diao)；關帝殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，1937年(nian)(nian)日(ri)機轟(hong)炸被(bei)(bei)震坍，現為(wei)花木盆景(jing)公(gong)司(si)；痘司(si)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，30年(nian)(nian)代(dai)被(bei)(bei)典押(ya)后成為(wei)民居(ju)。今仍屬(shu)道教使用(yong)的(de)(de)除(chu)正山(shan)(shan)門(men)(men)、三清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)外，尚有(you)火(huo)(huo)神殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、財神殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、星宿殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、雷尊殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，其(qi)余的(de)(de)則后來又(you)被(bei)(bei)有(you)關單位(wei)占用(yong)或拆除(chu)。

玄(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)(miao)觀內文化積淀深(shen)厚，民間(jian)傳(chuan)說動人，舊有十八景(jing)之說，分別為元(yuan)趙孟(meng)頫(fu)所(suo)書玄(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)(miao)觀重修(xiu)山門碑(bei)(bei)、麒麟照(zhao)墻(qiang)、朝北(bei)玄(xuan)帝銅(tong)殿(dian)、六角亭、釘(ding)釘(ding)石欄桿、一步三條橋、無字碑(bei)(bei)、海星壇(tan)、一人弄、楊芝畫、運(yun)木(mu)古井、妙(miao)(miao)(miao)一統元(yuan)匾額、靠天(tian)吃飯(fan)圖碑(bei)(bei)，如今(jin)十八景(jing)中還(huan)(huan)保存九處(chu)。玄(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)(miao)觀文物中著名的還(huan)(huan)有歷(li)代碑(bei)(bei)刻，有老子像(xiang)碑(bei)(bei)、永禁機匠(jiang)叫歇碑(bei)(bei)等(deng)等(deng)計有八十一塊。除部分收藏在(zai)文廟外，還(huan)(huan)余(yu)下(xia)不少成為碑(bei)(bei)廊，現(xian)藏在(zai)輕工門市部夾弄內，歷(li)劫(jie)不滅(mie)，彌(mi)足珍貴(gui)。

玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)值得(de)一提的還有正(zheng)山門(men)八字照(zhao)墻，當年為(wei)此(ci)還掀(xian)起過一場(chang)軒(xuan)然大波。照(zhao)墻前原有一排平(ping)屋(wu)，有七、八家商(shang)(shang)鋪，1930年觀(guan)前街(jie)拓寬，影(ying)響這些商(shang)(shang)鋪，德(de)記地(di)產公司出(chu)面向玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)方丈顏品笙協商(shang)(shang)拆除照(zhao)墻，租(zu)用兩側(ce)地(di)基，搭(da)屋(wu)經商(shang)(shang)，條件是訂約十五年，付給押金一萬元(yuan)。此(ci)舉一出(chu)，引起地(di)方人士反對，形成(cheng)“保古派”與“保商(shang)(shang)派”之(zhi)爭，后(hou)經江蘇省建設(she)廳批(pi)準(zhun)，正(zheng)山門(men)兩端(duan)建起了與玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)極不協調的三層樓房(fang)，道觀(guan)古樸肅穆的風貌從此(ci)不復再現。

玄妙觀三(san)(san)清殿(dian)之(zhi)后，原(yuan)有一(yi)座始建(jian)于明正統三(san)(san)年(1438)的(de)彌羅(luo)寶閣。閣高(gao)3層(ceng)，闊9間(jian)，飛檐翹角，高(gao)聳云天，十分壯觀。所供神像，上層(ceng)是萬皇帝(di)主，左(zuo)右配祀(si)28星(xing)宿(su)；底(di)層(ceng)是萬地帝(di)主，左(zuo)右配祀(si)60花甲星(xing)宿(su)。露(lu)臺石(shi)刻(ke)尤稱(cheng)(cheng)珍(zhen)貴，轉角處嵌有畫(hua)像石(shi)，一(yi)刻(ke)□爵祿來同(tong)像，一(yi)刻(ke)掛印封侯像，另一(yi)面刻(ke)有八蠻進寶圖。露(lu)臺扶(fu)欄(lan)亦有精美石(shi)雕，古氣磅礴，與(yu)山(shan)東武梁祠、郭巨墓漢畫(hua)石(shi)刻(ke)，神態逼肖，當為晉寧道院或唐(tang)開元宮之(zhi)舊(jiu)物。如此一(yi)座堪稱(cheng)(cheng)蘇州(zhou)樓(lou)閣之(zhi)最的(de)古建(jian)筑(zhu)，卻不幸毀于民國元年(1912)8月28日晚的(de)一(yi)場(chang)至今原(yuan)因不明的(de)大火之(zhi)中。

葉圣陶在失火(huo)(huo)當日(ri)日(ri)記(ji)中記(ji)云：“入(ru)(ru)夜，紅(hong)光燭天(tian)，人(ren)聲喧沓，開門而望之(zhi)，在余家(jia)(jia)西北面(mian)，繼(ji)而鑼聲四應矣(yi)。后知(zhi)燒去者為觀里(li)彌羅寶閣(ge)。此(ci)閣(ge)年代(dai)極古，工(gong)程(cheng)至(zhi)鉅(ju)且精。偌大建筑(zhu)物付之(zhi)一炬(ju)，殊可惜，且守者止一二(er)(er)人(ren)，石柱堅墻何致起(qi)火(huo)(huo)？即著火(huo)(huo)亦(yi)何致全毀？一般迷信家(jia)(jia)恐又將造出許多神(shen)話也。”翌(yi)日(ri)葉至(zhi)現場察看后于日(ri)記(ji)中寫道：“晨至(zhi)頡剛處，幾伊亦(yi)來，乃偕赴觀里(li)觀火(huo)(huo)場劫場。可憐莊嚴宮殿只剩碎瓦殘灰，神(shen)鬼威力果何在哉！亦(yi)可稍示迷信家(jia)(jia)矣(yi)。然觀里(li)為吳中名勝(sheng)，遠道來游者至(zhi)多，故(gu)觀里(li)商業(ye)亦(yi)為蘇地(di)冠，從(cong)此(ci)或將冷落矣(yi)。入(ru)(ru)訪(fang)詢(xun)起(qi)火(huo)(huo)原由(you)，亦(yi)云不可得知(zhi)，徒知(zhi)先有(you)火(huo)(huo)在第二(er)(er)層(ceng)，而第二(er)(er)層(ceng)樓(lou)(lou)則常閉(bi)者也。”又圣昌(chang)熾《緣督(du)廬(lu)日(ri)記(ji)》壬子年七月十六日(ri)記(ji)云：“晚(wan)餐正陳(chen)，陡聞(wen)樓(lou)(lou)上驚呼聲，一舉首則霄半(ban)(ban)有(you)光煜(yu)然，墻壁窗牖(you)皆如(ru)倒(dao)景反射，再視則紅(hong)火(huo)(huo)燭天(tian)矣(yi)。亟登樓(lou)(lou)視之(zhi)，白煙蓬蓬而起(qi)，火(huo)(huo)星飛爆，如(ru)萬弩之(zhi)齊(qi)發，寂(ji)無(wu)警(jing)笛(di)耳輪，但聞(wen)膈膊(bo)聲。自夜七鐘半(ban)(ban)，焚(fen)至(zhi)八鐘半(ban)(ban)始熄。”偌大一座樓(lou)(lou)閣(ge)化為灰燼。是(shi)失火(huo)(huo)？還是(shi)縱(zong)火(huo)(huo)？至(zhi)今(jin)仍是(shi)謎。

中山堂即在彌羅寶(bao)閣原址建造，現為影劇公司占用。

主要景點

玄妙觀

玄妙觀(guan)三清殿于(yu)1982年2月(yue)列為全國重點(dian)文物(wu)保護單位。

玄妙觀極(ji)盛時有(you)殿(dian)(dian)宇30余座(zuo)(zuo)，是(shi)(shi)(shi)當時全國最(zui)大(da)(da)(da)的(de)道觀。現有(you)山門、主殿(dian)(dian)（三清殿(dian)(dian)）、副(fu) 殿(dian)(dian)（彌(mi)羅(luo)寶閣）及21座(zuo)(zuo)配(pei)殿(dian)(dian)。山門雄偉高(gao)聳，上(shang)懸(xuan)康熙(xi)帝御筆賜額“圓妙觀”。南宋(song)淳熙(xi) 六年(nian)（1179年(nian)）重建(jian)的(de)主殿(dian)(dian)三清殿(dian)(dian)面(mian)(mian)闊9間(jian)，進(jin)深6間(jian)，高(gao)約30米，建(jian)筑(zhu)面(mian)(mian)積(ji)1125平方米，重檐歇山，巍(wei)峨壯麗(li)，是(shi)(shi)(shi)江南一(yi)帶現存(cun)最(zui) 大(da)(da)(da)的(de)宋(song)代(dai)(dai)木構建(jian)筑(zhu)。殿(dian)(dian)中(zhong)(zhong)須彌(mi)座(zuo)(zuo)上(shang)供高(gao)17米泥塑貼(tie)金(jin)的(de)3尊(zun)(zun)神(shen)像(xiang)，正(zheng)中(zhong)(zhong)是(shi)(shi)(shi)元始天(tian)(tian)尊(zun)(zun)，兩旁(pang)是(shi)(shi)(shi)靈寶天(tian)(tian)尊(zun)(zun)和(he)道德天(tian)(tian)尊(zun)(zun)，俗稱(cheng)(cheng)三清。神(shen)像(xiang) 高(gao)大(da)(da)(da)莊嚴(yan)，是(shi)(shi)(shi)宋(song)代(dai)(dai)道教(jiao)塑像(xiang)中(zhong)(zhong)的(de)上(shang)品(pin)。三清中(zhong)(zhong)道德天(tian)(tian)尊(zun)(zun)又稱(cheng)(cheng)太上(shang) 老(lao)(lao)君(jun)，傳(chuan)為老(lao)(lao)子李耳。其像(xiang)座(zuo)(zuo)有(you)老(lao)(lao)君(jun)像(xiang)石(shi)(shi)刻，為唐(tang)吳道子繪像(xiang)，唐(tang)玄宗題贊，顏真卿書，由宋(song)代(dai)(dai)刻石(shi)(shi)高(gao)手張(zhang)允迪摹刻，可稱(cheng)(cheng)“四絕(jue)”碑(bei)，是(shi)(shi)(shi)目前(qian)國內僅(jin)存(cun)的(de)兩塊老(lao)(lao)子像(xiang)碑(bei)之(zhi)一(yi)。三清殿(dian)(dian)西山墻(qiang)有(you)60根大(da)(da)(da)青石(shi)(shi)六面(mian)(mian)柱(zhu)，每面(mian)(mian)刻有(you)一(yi)天(tian)(tian)尊(zun)(zun)像(xiang)，共刻360天(tian)(tian)尊(zun)(zun)像(xiang)，合周年(nian)數。玄妙觀前(qian)一(yi)條(tiao)街(jie)名觀前(qian)街(jie)，為蘇(su)州的(de)主要商(shang)業街(jie)之(zhi)一(yi)。

三清殿

三(san)清(qing)殿為(wei)(wei)玄妙(miao)觀正殿，南宋(song)(song)淳(chun)熙六(liu)年(nian)(1179)重(zhong)建。重(zhong)檐(yan)(yan)(yan)歇山造，面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)闊9間(jian)(jian)(jian)，廣45.64米(mi)，進(jin)(jin)深(shen)(shen)(shen)6間(jian)(jian)(jian)，深(shen)(shen)(shen)25.25米(mi)，通高(gao)約(yue)27米(mi)，面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)闊與進(jin)(jin)深(shen)(shen)(shen)之(zhi)比為(wei)(wei)9：5。殿柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)排列，縱橫成(cheng)行，內(nei)外一致(zhi)，共(gong)有(you)(you)7列，每列10柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)，無“減柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)”或(huo)“移柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)”，俗稱(cheng)“滿堂柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)”。四周(zhou)檐(yan)(yan)(yan)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)為(wei)(wei)八角(jiao)石(shi)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)，共(gong)30根；殿內(nei)諸(zhu)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)除(chu)內(nei)槽(cao)(cao)中(zhong)央(yang)(yang)三(san)間(jian)(jian)(jian)4根后(hou)金(jin)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)為(wei)(wei)抹角(jiao)石(shi)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)外，均為(wei)(wei)圓木柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)，共(gong) 36根。柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)礎均為(wei)(wei)連磉有(you)(you)唇覆盆式(shi)(shi)，檐(yan)(yan)(yan)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)礎上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)再施(shi)(shi)仿木質(zhi)八角(jiao)形石(shi)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)腳，殿內(nei)木柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)則(ze)于(yu)(yu)礎上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)加石(shi)鼓。下(xia)(xia)檐(yan)(yan)(yan)斗拱(gong)(gong)(gong)為(wei)(wei)四鋪單昂(ang)(ang)，昂(ang)(ang)的(de)(de)(de)下(xia)(xia)緣向(xiang)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)微微反曲。柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)頭(tou)(tou)鋪作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)昂(ang)(ang)嘴實為(wei)(wei)內(nei)檐(yan)(yan)(yan)華拱(gong)(gong)(gong)的(de)(de)(de)延(yan)長，其上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)承(cheng)月(yue)(yue)梁(liang)(liang)。梁(liang)(liang)頭(tou)(tou)伸(shen)出(chu)作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)耍(shua)頭(tou)(tou)，斫作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)宋(song)(song)式(shi)(shi)梢頭(tou)(tou)。補間(jian)(jian)(jian)鋪作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)皆用(yong)真(zhen)(zhen)昂(ang)(ang)，后(hou)尾挑起，以承(cheng)托下(xia)(xia)平西方槫(tuan)下(xia)(xia)的(de)(de)(de)令(ling)拱(gong)(gong)(gong)，即(ji)《營造法(fa)(fa)(fa)式(shi)(shi)》上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)的(de)(de)(de)“飛(fei)昂(ang)(ang)”制度。上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)檐(yan)(yan)(yan)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)頭(tou)(tou)與補間(jian)(jian)(jian)鋪作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)均為(wei)(wei)重(zhong)昂(ang)(ang)，結構(gou)完全一致(zhi)，但僅為(wei)(wei)華拱(gong)(gong)(gong)前端(duan)做(zuo)(zuo)出(chu)假昂(ang)(ang)，其后(hou)并無昂(ang)(ang)挑起的(de)(de)(de)杠桿(gan)作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)用(yong)。至于(yu)(yu)內(nei)槽(cao)(cao)斗拱(gong)(gong)(gong)，則(ze)于(yu)(yu)重(zhong)抄之(zhi)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)，前后(hou)兩面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)用(yong)“上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)昂(ang)(ang)”成(cheng)為(wei)(wei)“六(liu)鋪作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)重(zhong)抄上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)昂(ang)(ang)斗拱(gong)(gong)(gong)”結構(gou)，為(wei)(wei)國內(nei)孤例。在櫨(lu)斗兩側，結構(gou)完全對稱(cheng)，較《營造法(fa)(fa)(fa)式(shi)(shi)》所(suo)載上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)昂(ang)(ang)做(zuo)(zuo)法(fa)(fa)(fa)更為(wei)(wei)簡(jian)化。又內(nei)槽(cao)(cao)內(nei)轉角(jiao)鋪作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)，在后(hou)金(jin)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)都用(yong)插拱(gong)(gong)(gong)，即(ji)以丁頭(tou)(tou)拱(gong)(gong)(gong)插于(yu)(yu)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)內(nei)，無櫨(lu)斗，亦此殿斗拱(gong)(gong)(gong)重(zhong)要特(te)征，為(wei)(wei)國內(nei)現(xian)存(cun)最(zui)(zui)古(gu)(gu)實例。內(nei)槽(cao)(cao)斗拱(gong)(gong)(gong)之(zhi)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)，更施(shi)(shi)平棋，殿的(de)(de)(de)梁(liang)(liang)架結構(gou)，外槽(cao)(cao)梁(liang)(liang)架先施(shi)(shi)順木伏串，次于(yu)(yu)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)頭(tou)(tou)鋪作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)架月(yue)(yue)梁(liang)(liang)，復用(yong)襻(pan)間(jian)(jian)(jian)作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。月(yue)(yue)梁(liang)(liang)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)又施(shi)(shi)櫨(lu)斗，置(zhi)十字交叉(cha)令(ling)拱(gong)(gong)(gong)，承(cheng)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)層月(yue)(yue)梁(liang)(liang)與槫(tuan)下(xia)(xia)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)頭(tou)(tou)枋。結構(gou)與《營造法(fa)(fa)(fa)式(shi)(shi)》亦能符(fu)合。內(nei)額(e)除(chu)中(zhong)央(yang)(yang)四縫外，都于(yu)(yu)其下(xia)(xia)另加上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)枋，二(er)者之(zhi)間(jian)(jian)(jian)用(yong)襻(pan)間(jian)(jian)(jian)鋪作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。殿的(de)(de)(de)內(nei)槽(cao)(cao)中(zhong)央(yang)(yang)5間(jian)(jian)(jian)后(hou)金(jin)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)，筑(zhu)(zhu)磚壁達內(nei)額(e)下(xia)(xia)皮，壁前有(you)(you)磚砌須彌座(zuo)，面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)闊3間(jian)(jian)(jian)，高(gao)1.75米(mi)，式(shi)(shi)樣略如《營造法(fa)(fa)(fa)式(shi)(shi)》而(er)繁密過之(zhi)。上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)奉三(san)清(qing)像(xiang)，趺坐于(yu)(yu)方座(zuo)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)，像(xiang)高(gao)約(yue)6米(mi)，高(gao)于(yu)(yu)地(di)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)約(yue)10.5米(mi)，神態凝重(zhong)，衣(yi)褶生(sheng)動(dong)，是古(gu)(gu)代(dai)(dai)道教造像(xiang)中(zhong)的(de)(de)(de)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)品。殿內(nei)壁間(jian)(jian)(jian)嵌有(you)(you)碑石(shi)多方，以南宋(song)(song)寶慶元年(nian)(1225)所(suo)刻(ke)“太(tai)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)老君像(xiang)”最(zui)(zui)為(wei)(wei)珍貴(gui)，像(xiang)為(wei)(wei)唐代(dai)(dai)吳(wu)道子(zi)所(suo)繪，形貌蒼褶流(liu)暢，上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)方有(you)(you)顏真(zhen)(zhen)卿所(suo)書唐玄宗李隆基(ji)的(de)(de)(de)“贊”四言十六(liu)句，刻(ke)工為(wei)(wei)張允迪。三(san)清(qing)殿臺基(ji)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)闊49.6米(mi)，進(jin)(jin)深(shen)(shen)(shen)29.5米(mi)，現(xian)高(gao)出(chu)周(zhou)圍地(di)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)約(yue)1 米(mi)。前施(shi)(shi)月(yue)(yue)臺，面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)闊27.2米(mi)，進(jin)(jin)深(shen)(shen)(shen)16.3米(mi)，中(zhong)央(yang)(yang)立鐵鼎。正面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)與左、右各踏跺，周(zhou)以青石(shi)勾欄(lan)。臺基(ji)僅南面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)東、西梢間(jian)(jian)(jian)及盡間(jian)(jian)(jian)有(you)(you)石(shi)欄(lan)，與月(yue)(yue)臺石(shi)欄(lan)貫通，華版雕刻(ke)極細，內(nei)容有(you)(you)人(ren)物(wu)、走獸、飛(fei)禽、水族、山水、云(yun)樹、亭閣等，頗為(wei)(wei)古(gu)(gu)樸生(sheng)動(dong)，為(wei)(wei)宋(song)(song)或(huo)宋(song)(song)以前作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)品。三(san)清(qing)殿是江蘇最(zui)(zui)古(gu)(gu)的(de)(de)(de)木結構(gou)建筑(zhu)(zhu)，也是國內(nei)現(xian)存(cun)體量(liang)最(zui)(zui)大的(de)(de)(de)宋(song)(song)代(dai)(dai)大殿。

正山門

正山門(men)(men)位于三清殿南約80米(mi)處(chu)，清乾隆四十(shi)年(1775)重建。重檐歇山造，面闊5間(jian)，廣20米(mi)，進深12米(mi)，于當心間(jian)脊(ji)柱間(jian)設(she)斷(duan)砌門(men)(men)。

如意門

如意門(men)(西腳門(men))內的雷尊殿(dian)初(chu)名雷神蓼，亦為坐北(bei)朝南(nan)的重(zhong)檐歇山式(shi)建筑，明天順二年(1458)建，清(qing)康熙(xi)四年(1665)重(zhong)修(xiu)，面(mian)闊3間(jian)，廣(guang)16米，進(jin)深(shen)14米，前加卷棚頂軒廊3間(jian)，與下檐形成勾連搭屋(wu)頂，通進(jin)深(shen)21米，梁(liang)架結構及(ji)柱礎制均有明代特征，殿(dian)南(nan)尚存山門(men)3間(jian)。此(ci)外，觀內現存殿(dian)閣，東有財(cai)神殿(dian)、天醫藥王殿(dian)、火神殿(dian)、三清(qing)殿(dian)、斗(dou)姆閣等(deng)，西有觀音(yin)殿(dian)、三官殿(dian)等(deng)，北(bei)有蓑衣真人殿(dian)、方丈(zhang)殿(dian)等(deng)，多數為晚清(qing)重(zhong)建。

保存在觀(guan)內(nei)碑刻有(you)數十種(zhong)，上(shang)起(qi)宋代，下迄清(qing)末。

通(tong)神先(xian)生(sheng)何(he)蓑(suo)衣(yi)事實碑(bei) 在蓑(suo)衣(yi)真人殿。碑(bei)高1.55米(mi)、寬1.08米(mi)，胡袤撰，宋孝宗(zong)脊題“通(tong)神庵”三字，南宋慶元三年(nian)(1197)刻石(shi)。

詔建三清(qing)(qing)大殿上梁(liang)文碑在祖師(shi)殿遺址碑廊。碑高(gao)1.62米、寬0.93米，南宋淳熙八年(nian)(1181)龔頤(yi)正撰，嘉定十一年(nian)(1218)立石，張允迪刻，原(yuan)在三清(qing)(qing)殿。

老君像(xiang)碑在頤正殿。碑高1.8米、寬(kuan)0.91米，吳道(dao)子(zi)畫，唐玄宗李(li)隆基贊(zan)，顏真卿書，馮大同跋，張允迪刻，南宋寶慶元年(nian)(1225)立石。

朝(chao)旨蠲(juan)免(mian)天慶(qing)觀道正司科敷度牒(die)尚書(shu)省札(zha)部符使帖(tie)碑在三清殿(dian)。高(gao)1.97米、寬1.08米，頂端抹角，南(nan)宋端平元年(nian)(1234)立。

清理道教碑(bei) 在三清殿(dian)外東側。高6.5米(mi)、寬2.7米(mi)，方孝孺撰并書，明(ming)洪(hong)武中(zhong)年(1371)立，后方氏被(bei)誅，碑(bei)文被(bei)劃去，故俗稱(cheng)無(wu)字碑(bei)。

重修三清(qing)殿記碑(bei) 在火神殿南小弄內。高(gao)1.66米、寬0.9米，王進撰，衛靖書，張徽篆額(e)，明宣(xuan)德四年(1429)呂(lv)志清(qing)立石，左上角殘缺，碑(bei)文已漫漶。

重(zhong)修玄妙觀五岳樓記碑現存祖師遺址碑廊。高1.15米、寬0.66米，李(li)杰撰，陳昌言刻，明弘治十六年(1503)立，原置東岳殿。

玄妙觀(guan)三(san)清殿至今已(yi)有(you)八百多(duo)年歷史，九(jiu)開間的(de)宏殿巍峨軒(xuan)昂，原來(lai)說是在江(jiang)南絕無僅(jin)有(you)，后來(lai)文(wen)物專家(jia)羅哲文(wen)來(lai)蘇考察，說是全國也沒有(you)這樣巨(ju)大(da)的(de)南宋(song)建筑(zhu)( 其氣勢只有(you)北京故宮的(de)太和殿和曲阜孔廟大(da)成殿可與之相比、但這些建筑(zhu)的(de)年代都遠(yuan)遠(yuan)晚于南宋(song))，所以三(san)清殿稱為(wei)國寶當之無愧！

集市特色

玄妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)為(wei)全國著名(ming)道觀(guan)，又是(shi)歷(li)史悠久的(de)傳統集(ji)市。馮夢龍《警(jing)世通言》無(wu)礙居士(shi)序中說：“吾頃從玄妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)聽(ting)說《三國志》來。”說明玄妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)在明天啟年(nian)(nian)間已有露天書(shu)場。至清代(dai)設攤者日(ri)多，遂演變成為(wei)古城中心一(yi)處(chu)熱鬧的(de)集(ji)市，有小吃、日(ri)用雜品、文(wen)具(ju)玩(wan)具(ju)、對聯(lian)字畫、花(hua)鳥魚蟲的(de)攤店(dian)以及醫卜星(xing)相、江湖雜耍等等，五(wu)花(hua)八門，不一(yi)而足。茲就(jiu)昔(xi)日(ri)報刊(kan)所載(zai)30年(nian)(nian)代(dai)前后玄妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)集(ji)市狀況略舉一(yi)二，以見(jian)其概貌。

小吃特色

玄妙觀的(de)(de)小(xiao)吃，名目繁多(duo)，如(ru)小(xiao)米子糖、灰湯(tang)粽、氽魷魚、熏魚、涼粉、藕(ou)粉、千(qian)張百(bai)頁、酒(jiu)釀(niang)圓(yuan)子、豆(dou)(dou)腐花(hua)、糖粥、梅花(hua)糕(gao)、海棠糕(gao)、焐酥豆(dou)(dou)、五香茶葉蛋、雞(ji)鴨血(xue)湯(tang)，其(qi)余如(ru)面(mian)、小(xiao)籠(long)饅頭、鍋貼、燒(shao)賣、餛(hun)飩(tun)、湯(tang)團等等，應(ying)有(you)盡有(you)。著名的(de)(de)攤店，有(you)專售梨膏糖的(de)(de)文魁齋、觀振興(xing)面(mian)店、王源興(xing)酒(jiu)釀(niang)豆(dou)(dou)漿店、小(xiao)有(you)天藕(ou)粉店、五芳(fang)齋、六芳(fang)齋、七芳(fang)齋等等，還(huan)有(you)百(bai)年以上歷史的(de)(de)三萬思、品芳(fang)兩家茶館(guan)。可以說玄妙觀是蘇州(zhou)小(xiao)吃最(zui)為集中的(de)(de)地(di)方。

年畫特色

三(san)(san)清殿內(nei)是傳(chuan)統的年畫市場，出售(shou)桃花塢出版的各種畫張，如神(shen)軸、灶(zao)神(shen)、門神(shen)、百壽圖、送子圖、鳳穿牡丹、魚跳(tiao)龍門、歲寒三(san)(san)友(you)、梅(mei)開五(wu)福、岳飛抗金、關羽夜讀春秋(qiu)、二(er)十(shi)四(si)孝等等，民(min)國以(yi)后上海的彩印(yin)美女圖、風(feng)景畫進入(ru)觀內(nei)，受到大眾歡迎(ying)。另有(you)對聯、立軸，并可請名(ming)家當場揮毫，其中最著名(ming)者汪煥文(度)，自(zi)號“鄧尉山農”，在三(san)(san)清殿書寫對聯數十(shi)年之久。

觀內空地經常演出(chu)各(ge)種江湖(hu)雜(za)耍，有變(bian)戲法、木偶(ou)戲、耍猴戲、西洋(yang)鏡、唱小熱(re)昏、賣拳頭、說露(lu)天書等(deng)等(deng)。鑼(luo)鼓響處，圍滿人群，熙熙攘攘，熱(re)鬧(nao)非凡。

醫卜星相更

醫卜(bu)星(xing)相(xiang)(xiang)更是玄妙觀(guan)(guan)(guan)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)大特色，有(you)(you)(you)祖傳(chuan)秘方、專(zhuan)治氣喘、癆(lao)疾、筋骨(gu)(gu)酸疼(teng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)江湖郎中，有(you)(you)(you)撥(bo)牙的(de)(de)(de)(de)牙醫，有(you)(you)(you)主(zhu)治跌打損傷(shang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)傷(shang)科等(deng)(deng)等(deng)(deng)。遠近聞(wen)名(ming)的(de)(de)(de)(de)葛(ge)云(yun)彬、謝明德都曾在此掛牌(pai)設(she)(she)攤(tan)(tan)。算(suan)命(ming)、相(xiang)(xiang)面(mian)、測(ce)字(zi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)集(ji)中在東(dong)腳(jiao)門(men)至牛角浜一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)路，有(you)(you)(you)的(de)(de)(de)(de)當街設(she)(she)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)桌(zhuo)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)椅(yi)，有(you)(you)(you)的(de)(de)(de)(de)設(she)(she)館，總稱“巾(jin)行(xing)(xing)”，七(qi)十二巾(jin)可謂(wei)樣樣齊全。有(you)(you)(you)量(liang)(liang)手曰(yue)(yue)(yue)“量(liang)(liang)巾(jin)”，鳥銜設(she)(she)牌(pai)曰(yue)(yue)(yue)“鳥巾(jin)”，拉(la)胡琴曰(yue)(yue)(yue)“夾(jia)絲巾(jin)”，敲(qiao)搭板小(xiao)鑼曰(yue)(yue)(yue)“響(xiang)巾(jin)”，相(xiang)(xiang)面(mian)曰(yue)(yue)(yue)“斬盤搶巾(jin)”，批八(ba)字(zi)曰(yue)(yue)(yue)“八(ba)黑(hei)”，搖課(ke)(ke)曰(yue)(yue)(yue)“圓頭”，拆(chai)字(zi)曰(yue)(yue)(yue)“小(xiao)黑(hei)”，瞎子摸(mo)牌(pai)曰(yue)(yue)(yue)“觀(guan)(guan)(guan)梅”。相(xiang)(xiang)面(mian)有(you)(you)(you)手相(xiang)(xiang)、摸(mo)骨(gu)(gu)相(xiang)(xiang)等(deng)(deng)幾種，以(yi)(yi)(yi)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)鑒明(真名(ming)張子芳)、朱少卿最為(wei)(wei)(wei)有(you)(you)(you)名(ming)。相(xiang)(xiang)面(mian)兼算(suan)命(ming)的(de)(de)(de)(de)有(you)(you)(you)四明山人、王一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)舟等(deng)(deng)。算(suan)命(ming)兼堪輿(風水(shui)、地(di)(di)理、流年(nian)(nian)、合婚(hun))的(de)(de)(de)(de)，以(yi)(yi)(yi)楊鳳巢、蔣通天(tian)、凌云(yun)山、楊守成(cheng)、鄒(zou)慕(mu)鴻(hong)等(deng)(deng)為(wei)(wei)(wei)主(zhu)。拆(chai)字(zi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)有(you)(you)(you)談虎(hu)臣、張天(tian)良等(deng)(deng)。起課(ke)(ke)的(de)(de)(de)(de)有(you)(you)(you)文王課(ke)(ke)、六壬課(ke)(ke)，以(yi)(yi)(yi)明如鏡為(wei)(wei)(wei)有(you)(you)(you)名(ming)。還有(you)(you)(you)鴻(hong)運來(lai)(lai)(真名(ming)泊良)的(de)(de)(de)(de)烏(wu)(wu)龜測(ce)字(zi)，他(ta)(ta)把事先用膠水(shui)寫好的(de)(de)(de)(de)字(zi)條(tiao)，放在置有(you)(you)(you)烏(wu)(wu)賊骨(gu)(gu)粉的(de)(de)(de)(de)烏(wu)(wu)龜殼(ke)內(nei)，搖動幾下便顯出字(zi)跡(ji)，以(yi)(yi)(yi)此吸引好奇(qi)者。他(ta)(ta)們或取號“賽諸(zhu)葛(ge)”、“小(xiao)神仙”，或自稱“能知(zhi)過(guo)去未來(lai)(lai)，善斷吉(ji)兇禍福”，舉凡(fan)男(nan)女婚(hun)配(pei)、家庭(ting)糾紛、生(sheng)老病死、官運財氣均是他(ta)(ta)們測(ce)算(suan)的(de)(de)(de)(de)范圍。俗話說“江湖一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)點(dian)訣，莫(mo)對妻子說，若對妻子說，飯都沒得吃(chi)(chi)！”然而(er)，明明是迷(mi)信騙局，卻有(you)(you)(you)無數(shu)人找(zhao)到他(ta)(ta)們尋求慰藉，直到解放后他(ta)(ta)們才由政府安排轉業。以(yi)(yi)(yi)上(shang)所述說明，由于玄妙觀(guan)(guan)(guan)的(de)(de)(de)(de)歷(li)史和(he)(he)地(di)(di)理條(tiao)件，使它成(cheng)為(wei)(wei)(wei)與北(bei)(bei)京天(tian)橋、南(nan)京夫子廟(miao)(miao)、上(shang)海老城(cheng)隍廟(miao)(miao)齊名(ming)而(er)又具(ju)有(you)(you)(you)蘇(su)州(zhou)地(di)(di)方特色的(de)(de)(de)(de)熱鬧場所。蘇(su)州(zhou)人常說“白相(xiang)(xiang)玄妙觀(guan)(guan)(guan)”，外(wai)地(di)(di)人到蘇(su)州(zhou)也(ye)必(bi)至玄妙觀(guan)(guan)(guan)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)游，這已經(jing)成(cheng)為(wei)(wei)(wei)人們的(de)(de)(de)(de)共(gong)識。隨著時代(dai)的(de)(de)(de)(de)發展(zhan)，玄妙觀(guan)(guan)(guan)也(ye)在不斷發生(sheng)變化，但它既是古跡(ji)名(ming)勝，又為(wei)(wei)(wei)傳(chuan)統集(ji)市的(de)(de)(de)(de)這一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)基(ji)本性質(zhi)和(he)(he)特點(dian)，始(shi)終未變，1956年(nian)(nian)，對玄妙觀(guan)(guan)(guan)攤(tan)(tan)販進行(xing)(xing)整理，保持了(le)小(xiao)吃(chi)(chi)為(wei)(wei)(wei)主(zhu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)傳(chuan)統特色。“文化大革命(ming)”期(qi)間，取消玄妙觀(guan)(guan)(guan)集(ji)市。1979年(nian)(nian)12月，江蘇(su)省12市、縣糖果評展(zhan)會在玄妙觀(guan)(guan)(guan)舉辦(ban)，隨后小(xiao)吃(chi)(chi)攤(tan)(tan)、服裝攤(tan)(tan)、雜貨攤(tan)(tan)及縫(feng)紉攤(tan)(tan)擁塞觀(guan)(guan)(guan)內(nei)，成(cheng)為(wei)(wei)(wei)蘇(su)州(zhou)恢復的(de)(de)(de)(de)集(ji)市。經(jing)多(duo)年(nian)(nian)整理和(he)(he)規劃(hua)，建起統一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)規格的(de)(de)(de)(de)售(shou)貨亭(ting)，西腳(jiao)門(men)甬(yong)道(dao)南(nan)段(duan)(duan)設(she)(she)20多(duo)個(ge)傳(chuan)統小(xiao)吃(chi)(chi)亭(ting)，北(bei)(bei)段(duan)(duan)有(you)(you)(you)10多(duo)個(ge)縫(feng)紉攤(tan)(tan)；東(dong)腳(jiao)門(men)南(nan)段(duan)(duan)為(wei)(wei)(wei)服裝售(shou)貨亭(ting)，北(bei)(bei)段(duan)(duan)為(wei)(wei)(wei)修補皮匠(jiang)攤(tan)(tan)點(dian)；三清(qing)殿后興(xing)起漁網漁具(ju)市場。1985年(nian)(nian)，玄妙觀(guan)(guan)(guan)內(nei)有(you)(you)(you)157個(ge)攤(tan)(tan)位。

實用信息

門票：

10元（寺觀覽勝）；15元（姑蘇道教仙樂）；10元（道教飛鈸(ba)表演）。

公交：

乘坐1、102、146、178、202、502到觀(guan)(guan)前街（東、西或(huo)樂橋）后，步行至街中段的(de)玄妙觀(guan)(guan)內(nei)。

交通信息

可(ke)乘游1東線到玄(xuan)妙觀站(zhan)下車，或乘2線、1路(lu)、101路(lu)、38路(lu)等到觀前街站(zhan)下車。