白云觀(guan)位于(yu)北(bei)京市西城區(qu)復興(xing)門外白云路(lu)東側,是道(dao)(dao)(dao)教全真三(san)大祖庭之一(yi)。道(dao)(dao)(dao)教為中國固有的(de)宗教,奉老子為教主,認(ren)為道(dao)(dao)(dao)無(wu)所不(bu)包、無(wu)所不(bu)在,以“道(dao)(dao)(dao)德(de)經(jing)(jing)”為主要經(jing)(jing)典(dian),其(qi)創(chuang)始人為東漢時期的(de)張道(dao)(dao)(dao)陵。白云觀(guan)始建于(yu)唐開元(yuan)二十(shi)七年(nian)(nian)(nian)(公元(yuan)739年(nian)(nian)(nian)),清康(kang)熙(xi)四十(shi)五(wu)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(公元(yuan)1706年(nian)(nian)(nian))、五(wu)十(shi)三(san)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(公元(yuan)1714年(nian)(nian)(nian))、光(guang)緒十(shi)二年(nian)(nian)(nian)(公元(yuan)1886年(nian)(nian)(nian))多(duo)次重(zhong)修(xiu)。現(xian)存建筑多(duo)為明(ming)清遺構。
白云觀全部建筑分為東、中、西三路,后面有花園。主要建筑都集中在中路,依次為牌樓、山門、靈官殿、玉皇殿、老律堂(七真殿)、邱祖殿、四御殿、戒臺與云集山房等,大大小小共有50多座殿堂,占地約2萬平方米。它吸取南北宮觀、園林特點建成,殿宇宏麗,景色幽雅,殿內全用道教圖案裝飾。其中四御殿為二層建筑,上層名三清閣,內藏明正統年間(公元1436—1449年)刊刻的《道藏》一部。邱祖殿為主要殿堂,內有邱處機的泥塑像,塑像下埋葬邱的遺骨。此觀在清朝改建時細部裝飾彩畫仍用道教圖案,如靈芝、仙鶴、八卦、八仙等。觀內保存有大量碑刻,如重修碑記、捐產碑記、畝產碑記、香火碑記等,記述觀址建筑變遷。東路有南極殿、真武殿、火神殿、羅公塔等,現改為觀內生活區。西路有祠堂、元君殿、文昌殿等。后花園內有亭臺、游廊,是極負盛名的道觀園林。
白云觀初建(jian)于(yu)唐開元二十六年(nian)(nian)(739),原名天長觀,金明(ming)昌三(san)年(nian)(nian)(1192),重(zhong)修此觀,改(gai)名為太極宮,金泰和三(san)年(nian)(nian)(1203),太極宮毀于(yu)火。
元(yuan)初道教(jiao)全真派長春(chun)真人丘處機奉元(yuan)太祖成吉思(si)汗(han)之詔駐太極宮(gong)掌管全國(guo)道教(jiao),遂更名(ming)長春(chun)宮(gong),為中國(guo)北方道教(jiao)的中心。
金正大四(si)年(1227)丘處機逝世,其弟子尹(yin)志平(ping)在長春(chun)宮東(dong)側建(jian)立(li)道(dao)院,取名白云觀(guan)。
元代(dai)末年,長(chang)春(chun)宮等建筑(zhu)毀于(yu)兵燹,白云(yun)觀(guan)獨存。
明(ming)洪武二(er)十七年(nian)(1394)重建(jian)(jian)前后二(er)殿和(he)一些附屬建(jian)(jian)筑,正統年(nian)間又大規模重建(jian)(jian)和(he)添建(jian)(jian),使觀之規制趨(qu)于(yu)完善。明(ming)正統八年(nian)(1443),正式賜額“白云觀”。明(ming)末,白云觀毀于(yu)火。
清康熙(xi)四十五(wu)年(1706)在原(yuan)來基礎上重(zhong)新大規(gui)模重(zhong)修與擴(kuo)建,今白云觀的(de)整體布局和主要殿(dian)閣規(gui)制即(ji)形(xing)成于此時。以(yi)后(hou),在乾隆(long)、光緒年間(jian)又有修繕和少量添(tian)建。
民國期(qi)間,觀內建筑大都因(yin)年久失修變的殘破。
解放后,政府于1956年(nian)撥款進行修(xiu)繕,1957年(nian)定為中國道(dao)教協會會址(zhi)。
“文革”期間,白(bai)云觀再次(ci)受到破壞,1981年(nian)又撥款全面(mian)修葺,并對外開(kai)放(fang)。
1979年,白云觀被公布為北京(jing)市文物保護單位。
2001年06月25日,白云觀作為(wei)清代古建筑,被國務院批準(zhun)列入第五批全(quan)國重點(dian)文物保護單(dan)位名單(dan)。
白云觀坐(zuo)北朝(chao)南,分為中、東、西(xi)三(san)路以(yi)及(ji)后院(yuan)計(ji)四個部分,占地面積1公頃多。
主(zhu)要殿(dian)(dian)宇位(wei)于中(zhong)軸線上,包括山門、靈官殿(dian)(dian)、玉皇殿(dian)(dian)、老律(lv)堂、丘祖殿(dian)(dian)、三清(qing)閣等建筑,配殿(dian)(dian)、廊廡(wu)分列(lie)中(zhong)軸兩旁。
山門(men)前(qian)神(shen)路(lu)的前(qian)端(duan)有欞星(xing)門(men),為一四柱七(qi)樓(lou)木結(jie)構牌(pai)坊,正樓(lou)前(qian)后(hou)有額(e),前(qian)書(shu)“洞天(tian)勝(sheng)境”,后(hou)書(shu)“瓊林閬苑”。山門(men)建于明(ming)代,面闊三(san)間(jian),單檐(yan)(yan)琉璃瓦(wa)歇山頂,漢(han)白玉雕(diao)花拱券石(shi)(shi)門(men),檐(yan)(yan)下額(e)書(shu)“敕建白云觀”,門(men)前(qian)有石(shi)(shi)獅、華表(biao)等物。欞星(xing)門(men)外有磚(zhuan)砌照壁(bi),壁(bi)心嵌(qian)“萬古長春(chun)”字樣的琉璃雕(diao)磚(zhuan)。
山門內(nei)為(wei)(wei)靈(ling)官(guan)(guan)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian),原為(wei)(wei)四帥殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian),面闊(kuo)三(san)(san)間(jian)(jian)(jian),進深一間(jian)(jian)(jian),內(nei)奉(feng)王靈(ling)官(guan)(guan)像(xiang)。靈(ling)官(guan)(guan)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)后東西兩(liang)側有鐘鼓樓(lou),為(wei)(wei)方形二層建筑,東為(wei)(wei)鼓樓(lou),西為(wei)(wei)鐘樓(lou),與其(qi)他寺觀布(bu)置相反(fan)。其(qi)后為(wei)(wei)玉(yu)皇(huang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian),坐落于(yu)高大的(de)“凸”字形臺基之上,殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)面闊(kuo)五間(jian)(jian)(jian),三(san)(san)間(jian)(jian)(jian)前列(lie)月臺,灰(hui)筒瓦歇山頂,殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)內(nei)供玉(yu)皇(huang)大帝神像(xiang),現兩(liang)側的(de)萬歷年間(jian)(jian)(jian)鑄造的(de)銅像(xiang)為(wei)(wei)他處移來。老律(lv)堂原稱七真殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian),位于(yu)玉(yu)皇(huang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)后,為(wei)(wei)觀內(nei)道士(shi)宗教活動的(de)主要場所(suo)。殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)面闊(kuo)三(san)(san)間(jian)(jian)(jian),勾連搭建筑,前出月臺。殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)內(nei)供奉(feng)全真道祖師(shi)王重陽的(de)七大弟子(zi)塑像(xiang),丘處機居中(zhong),殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)內(nei)正(zheng)梁上懸康(kang)熙御書“瑯簡真庭”橫匾。殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)外月臺右方立(li)銅騾一騎,原為(wei)(wei)東岳廟之物,后移至此處。
丘祖(zu)殿為(wei)(wei)老律堂(tang)(tang)(tang)后一組自成院落的前列建筑,始建于金正大五年(nian)(nian)(1128),名處順堂(tang)(tang)(tang),清(qing)康熙(xi)年(nian)(nian)間改(gai)為(wei)(wei)貞(zhen)寂(ji)堂(tang)(tang)(tang),乾(qian)隆四十(shi)五年(nian)(nian)(1780)改(gai)為(wei)(wei)今名,是全(quan)真龍門(men)派后裔奉祀丘處機(ji)的殿堂(tang)(tang)(tang),殿面闊(kuo)三間,灰筒瓦歇山頂,殿內塑有丘真人和(he)二脅(xie)侍(shi)像(xiang),有癭缽置于石(shi)座上,相(xiang)傳為(wei)(wei)宋代(dai)遺(yi)物,為(wei)(wei)乾(qian)隆帝所賜。
三(san)清(qing)閣和四(si)御(yu)(yu)殿(dian)(dian)是(shi)與丘祖殿(dian)(dian)組(zu)成院落的(de)(de)正房,上(shang)下兩層,上(shang)為三(san)清(qing)閣,下為四(si)御(yu)(yu)殿(dian)(dian),面闊五(wu)間(jian),前(qian)出廊(lang),是(shi)白云(yun)觀中(zhong)路北端的(de)(de)頂點建(jian)筑。三(san)清(qing)閣供奉道(dao)(dao)教最高尊神玉(yu)清(qing)原(yuan)始天尊、上(shang)清(qing)靈(ling)寶天尊、太(tai)清(qing)道(dao)(dao)德天尊,四(si)御(yu)(yu)殿(dian)(dian)供天神界(jie)的(de)(de)四(si)位大(da)帝像。閣兩側有轉角翼(yi)樓相通,東為藏經樓,原(yuan)藏有明正統(tong)道(dao)(dao)藏和萬歷續道(dao)(dao)藏,后移交北京圖書(shu)館。西翼(yi)樓為朝天樓或(huo)望月(yue)樓。三(san)清(qing)閣后為云(yun)集(ji)(ji)園(yuan)(yuan),是(shi)白云(yun)觀的(de)(de)后院,也是(shi)觀最北端的(de)(de)建(jian)筑。云(yun)集(ji)(ji)園(yuan)(yuan)始建(jian)于(yu)(yu)光緒十三(san)年(1887),園(yuan)(yuan)中(zhong)以(yi)戒臺、云(yun)集(ji)(ji)山房為主(zhu)體(ti)建(jian)筑,另外尚(shang)有云(yun)華仙館、友鶴亭(ting)(ting)、妙(miao)香(xiang)亭(ting)(ting)、退(tui)居樓等建(jian)筑點綴園(yuan)(yuan)中(zhong)。云(yun)集(ji)(ji)山房面闊三(san)間(jian),周以(yi)圍廊(lang);戒臺位于(yu)(yu)其(qi)(qi)南,北向,為傳(chuan)經受戒之所,其(qi)(qi)兩側有游廊(lang)迂回,后有假山橫亙。整(zheng)個后院布局精(jing)巧(qiao)、景色幽(you)美。
觀(guan)東路(lu)(lu)原有南(nan)極殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、真武殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、火神殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、齋堂等建筑(zhu),因(yin)所奉(feng)(feng)神像早毀,現(xian)已(yi)辟為(wei)寮房,作為(wei)生活居住區。東路(lu)(lu)尚有保存(cun)完好建于(yu)雍正年間(jian)的羅公塔,塔八(ba)(ba)角三(san)級,磚石結構,雕花(hua)細膩,古(gu)樸莊(zhuang)重。西路(lu)(lu)建筑(zhu)呂祖(zu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、八(ba)(ba)仙殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、元(yuan)君殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、元(yuan)辰殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、祠堂院等;祠堂在南(nan)端,為(wei)供奉(feng)(feng)白云觀(guan)歷代方丈神位之所;元(yuan)君殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian),亦(yi)稱娘(niang)(niang)娘(niang)(niang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian),建于(yu)乾隆二十一(yi)年(1756),面闊(kuo)三(san)間(jian),歇山(shan)頂(ding),中奉(feng)(feng)碧霞元(yuan)君,左右為(wei)子孫娘(niang)(niang)娘(niang)(niang)和(he)眼光(guang)娘(niang)(niang)娘(niang)(niang),殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)左右復有懸山(shan)各一(yi)座(zuo),下有催(cui)生娘(niang)(niang)娘(niang)(niang)和(he)天花(hua)娘(niang)(niang)娘(niang)(niang)塑(su)像,殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)原為(wei)坐北朝南(nan),現(xian)為(wei)坐南(nan)朝北,為(wei)觀(guan)中唯(wei)一(yi)的倒座(zuo)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian);呂祖(zu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)位于(yu)元(yuan)君殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)西側(ce),建于(yu)嘉慶十三(san)年(1808),為(wei)一(yi)獨立院落。院分前后亮殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian),均面闊(kuo)三(san)間(jian),兩側(ce)配以廡廊;前殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)為(wei)八(ba)(ba)仙殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian),殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)中順兩山(shan)塑(su)八(ba)(ba)仙像。
穿八仙殿而過為呂祖殿,為供奉呂洞賓的專殿,殿為綠琉璃瓦頂,為觀中僅有;元辰殿在三清閣西側,又名六十甲子殿,為供奉六十甲子星宿神像之所,殿面闊五間,灰瓦歇山頂,殿內原奉六十甲子像毀于“文革”,現為1984年補塑,并于中央新塑斗姥像做主神。
公(gong)交:乘(cheng)坐26、特19、80、695、717、特5、特6到(dao)白云觀(guan)站下(xia)(xia)車(che)可達。或者乘(cheng)坐3、19、42、46、662、691到(dao)天寧(ning)寺橋北下(xia)(xia)車(che),78真武廟三(san)里下(xia)(xia)車(che)。或者乘(cheng)坐9、40、47路天寧(ning)寺橋西下(xia)(xia)車(che)。